(Topic ID: 329980)

Coil replacement now blowing F4 fuse

By Mikenindy

1 year ago


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  • 99 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Mikenindy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

I have a 1986 Road Kings good working condition except for one pop-bumper would operate by hand on occasion… Ordered a new coil it turned out to be bad so I put the old one back in now it immediately blows a fuse when the machine is turned on… Can’t find any pinched wires… The wires were put back in the proper position… My solder joints aren’t perfect but they seem to be adequate to me… Any suggestions guys? Thanks for any help this is my first pinball game

#3 1 year ago

The new coil had .08 ohms… All my others have 4.. including the one I thought was bad.. I was told the new coil was no good Because of that reading

#5 1 year ago

The vendor on eBay is called money machines… And yes there is something not right… The coil they had pictured is not what they sent me ..all over the numbers match up though .. So will it cause any damage if I reverse these leads and give it a try? Although I’m pretty certain I did it right… Red wires go on right… As how I remembered it not too complicated lol

#6 1 year ago

Right now neither wire is soldered could I just use two jumper wires just to try it out?

#9 1 year ago

I’m positive I had the leads in the proper position because As on all my coils the red wire supplying voltage is on the same side as the silver stripe… I had several more coils delivered after the first one that shows only .08 homes… And all the others I received show four ohms.. I even tried disconnecting the bracket completely from the play field and setting it on something non-conductive and it still blew the fuse.. just wanted to rule out one of the insulators being bad that separates the contact points

#11 1 year ago

Well if I took and put a finger on each side of the skirt and pushed down on occasion it would pop but not with much force.. As you can see in the photo the red wire was on the correct side

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#13 1 year ago

Well that’s what I was thinking that’s why I disconnected the entire bracket from the play field… Could that still be the issue even if the bracket is disconnected altogether from the popper legs?.. It’s got to be something simple like that clearly there is power going to the coil in my mind anyway… Can I eliminate there being anything wrong in a board?

#14 1 year ago

Well when I first took that apart I saw that one of the copper contacts… Not one with the little contact point on it…a”blank” one Seem to have a twist in it so I bent it Back into a flat position

#16 1 year ago

I just looked at the contacts just under the spoon They are not stuck together by any means.. Visually compared everything to the other three operating poppers they all look exactly the same to me.. i’m 60 years old… This is not all entirely new to me I have been fixing things since I was 15 years old.. This was to me a very easy straightforward repair… I can find absolutely no reason why this is happening unless it’s in a board

#18 1 year ago

Honestly I don’t know if it was activating or not before the fuse blew… I don’t recall it doing anything… How do I remove the switch inputs?… Thanks for jumping in

#21 1 year ago

I appreciate your help and everybody else’s… Got a snow day off from work… So without having an extra new diode on hand I just installed the coil with .08 ohms resistance as a way of eliminating a bad diode on the one that is in now… It also immediately blew the fuse… funny I can’t find Q 78 or 79 on this board or anywhere else this is what I see

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#23 1 year ago

They are not labeled input or output but you can see the double white rectangles on J 18 and a single one on Jay 19

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#25 1 year ago

OK… Not sure what I’m supposed to do from here… I just have had a desire to learn to fix things on my own… Let me ask you this can the diode be tested while still attached to the coil or does it need to be separated

#27 1 year ago

OK I was pretty sure that you couldn’t ..my knowledge is basic and just a little above.. . I had a friend that worked on the avionics in F 16s and Apache helicopters… I went and bought a new diode that was not the issue.. however I pulled J 18 ..and left J 19 plugged in and it blew the fuse.. But not vice versa

#29 1 year ago

Yes I have a multimeter sounds like something I can manage thanks!!!

#30 1 year ago

And according to the person I bought them from that board has been replaced

#31 1 year ago

Thanks for your help I believe with your knowledge I found out what’s wrong… The first resistor beeped that I touched and none of the other five

#32 1 year ago

So the resistor ,,to the left of the transistor, that is showing bad… Because it makes continuity… Is also making continuity if I touch the right side of the resistor duplicating the same test… None of the other resistors do that…Does that mean that resistor is also bad?

#33 1 year ago

… Is IRL 520n The only numbers that matter when ordering a replacement?

#36 1 year ago

Yes the transistor tested bad… But the resistor to the left of it also beeps doing the same test… As long as The probe is only touched On the right side of the resistor. None of the other five resistors above that produce a beep

#37 1 year ago

Like so

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#39 1 year ago

OK I consider that a possibility for sure ..thanks for the help sir… And if it still blows the fuse that will be my next replacement

#42 1 year ago

I will certainly do that when my new transistor arrives… That’s the one good thing about learning all of this… There is plenty to compare to!!..

#43 1 year ago

I have already done that one of the wires is removed and I’m getting four ohms

#45 1 year ago

Well I have a loose new diode on hand how do I go about checking it

#48 1 year ago

Yup on correct setting. Putting the leads on either end produces the same result…. 1. ….it’s a 4007

#51 1 year ago
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#52 1 year ago

Yup

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#53 1 year ago

Not sure if you received the photos are not of the multimeter

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#55 1 year ago

Yeah exactly I didn’t bother showing it both ways because it still reads the same

#57 1 year ago

Yeah I’ll go ahead and do that ,,if after I install the transistor ,,and it still blows the fuse …it’s arriving today so keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks

#58 1 year ago

I got the flipper working again with the rebuild kit… Tried to change that transistor ..used a D soldering wick.. got it down to bare bones it seemed like ..removing the Soldier ,, it was still extremely snug… I live just a couple miles from a place called arcade rescue ,,I’m just going to pay them to replace the transistor… If I bring the board up to them I can’t imagine paying more than 50 bucks

#60 1 year ago

Yeah I considered that because you really need to heat each leg individually while pulling on it..

#61 1 year ago

I tried heating them all at once but it Solidified too fast

#64 1 year ago

I guess you can’t upload videos? Hooked everything back up not good it still blew the fuse F4. And now when you start a game it does not kick a ball out in front of the plunger

#66 1 year ago

Well actually I guess it didn’t blow the fuse for the solenoids because they are all working

#67 1 year ago

And it’s not showing anything on any of the displays… Thinking I should have just dealt with the one popper that did not work and left it alone

#69 1 year ago

It’s blowing the F2 fuse now

#70 1 year ago

I swapped out the bad transistor all the joints look good looked under a magnifying glass no contact between the solder joints… And I reattached the ground wire to the Solenoid that’s all I did

#72 1 year ago

I did not because it was supposed to be new and it had never functioned

#73 1 year ago

I just assumed f4 Was the solenoid fuse because That’s the fuse that kept blowing when all of this started… Now it’s not blowing ,,it’s the one below it …f2

#75 1 year ago

Yes it was installed facing the correct direction… I am not getting continuity anymore. And yes it was blowing F4… Now it is F2. Everything was plugged in correctly as I took pictures prior to disconnecting everything. I have some three amp fuses on hand that is all. I will do what you suggested and send you a picture Of the power supply shortly thanks

#77 1 year ago

OK I have it unplugged. All I have a standard three amp fuses. Should I just wait until I get the correct fuse?

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#79 1 year ago

It did not blow the fuse

#80 1 year ago

And yes the coil in question read 4 ohms

#83 1 year ago

OK I will detach it and test it… But now the bigger problem is why does my display no longer work..??.. and do you know the sound it makes when one of the balls or both of the balls Are removed from the game…It makes like three chimes..an alert.. It’s doing that…

#84 1 year ago

OK the display is now working… I didn’t have it plugged in quite all the way

#85 1 year ago

So the only problem left that didn’t exist before was that it is not kicking a ball in front of the plunger…

#88 1 year ago

No sir that same pop bumper is not working… But I am not concerned with that right now… I can deal with that tomorrow… I have my people coming over this weekend everyone’s excited to play my new pinball machine I just want to at least get it back to operational minus the one pop bumper… And what are these plugs you keep referring to?

#89 1 year ago
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#90 1 year ago
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#91 1 year ago

I put a probe on each side of the coil to get that rating… did you mean that I should attach to the chassis ground and then put the red probe on each side?

#92 1 year ago

So I got that pop bumper working!!!!!!.. As with the original issue you would have to press down on the skirt on both sides occasionally getting it to work… I adjusted the leaf contact and it works perfectly… I should’ve done that in the first place but this is my first pin… i’ve made a lot of things harder than they should’ve been but we live and learn… As soon as I get this ball Eject issue fixed it will be in perfect working order… Can’t thank you enough for your interest time and help sir

#94 1 year ago

Yes I reset all the plugs around the CPU board it did not help.. I am getting ready to call it a night I will test the voltage in the morning… I can look in my owners manual to run the test procedure. From a visual perspective where the pin balls are sitting in both places the switches seem to be working correctly… It’s seeming more like there is no power to that coil. Thanks again

#96 1 year ago

So I figured out why the balls are not ejected to the plunger the F2 fuse was blown…… When I replaced the fuse it kicked the ball out as it should and immediately blew the fuse… The reason I change the flipper contacts is because when I tried to separate the old one that had fused together the end of it broke off and obviously fell somewhere I never heard anything and couldn’t find it in the bottom of the cabinet it’s only the size of a pea but that may be causing my problem

#97 1 year ago

So I found the broken piece of contact in the bottom of the cabinet after a more thorough search.. what I’m not understanding is ,,if f2 is the special solenoids fuse ,,then why do the two kickers and the four jet bumpers still work.. i’m just assuming those are the special solenoids… after the fuse blows…??.. I also placed a ball in both of the eject holes and they do not eject… Got off work early and have done a VERY thorough check under the play field as well as on top… and in the back box… looking for any abnormalities or signs of a compromised wire… I had the Playfield Up and all the lights off hoping to see a spark .. Possibly indicating where the short was…in the dark ,,but that didn’t bear any fruit

#99 1 year ago

My last card to play was removing the CPU board and checking the backside for anything that may have stuck to the board or causing any interference… I reattach the board and everything works now ,,I believe the screws were not tight enough to provide a sufficient ground that’s the only thing I can think of.. everything is operating as it should at this point… Thanks for helping me much appreciate it!!

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