I'm trying to make order out of chaos, and am getting a bit stuck in this quest... is there anywhere some kind of coil chart/numbering system help thing for at least the major manufacturers out there that could help me identify certain coils I'm struggling with? Here's a pic of most of the coils I'm trying to organise... and one I'm stuck on for the moment... called A-1496, but with no manufacturer's name...
Thanks for any help!!
20220114_184756 (resized).jpg20220114_184824 (resized).jpghttps://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-1496
It's for a Gottlieb according to Marco.
Try looking here:
http://www.pbresource.com/coils.html
I suggest that you get out the multimeter and check the resistance of each coil to make sure that none are damaged.
If any come up with 0 (like a short) or infinite resistance (open), you can stop worrying about those.
You could write the resistance (or actually reactance) on each one or put a sticker with the resistance on each coil for part numbers that you can't identify to help determine the characteristics of each one.
Quoted from pinballj:Another great site is John Robertson's too:
Great place! I like that you can scroll down the list 'till you find the coil number irrespective of manufacturer!
This one had me stumped using all the links above... so I Googled it, and managed to find it here (on the coils link), it's a Recel...
http://www.pin-games.se/pinball/recel/index.htm
20220114_195452 (resized).jpg20220114_195513 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Dent00:I suggest that you get out the multimeter and check the resistance of each coil to make sure that none are damaged.
If any come up with 0 (like a short) or infinite resistance (open), you can stop worrying about those.
You could write the resistance (or actually reactance) on each one or put a sticker with the resistance on each coil for part numbers that you can't identify to help determine the characteristics of each one.
Great advice!! It makes total sense! Help get the number down to store too if I find duds!!
I'm 99% de-chaosed, thanks to the above help!! I'm just stuck on 4 coils (2 are the same, so 3 different) as in the below pic... the one with the hand written number is 27-GA-1900. And here are my final boxes of organised coils! Bally and Stern in one box and Gottlieb, Williams and everything else in the other.
20220115_210335 (resized).jpg20220115_210413 (resized).jpg20220115_211147 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballslave:I'm 99% de-chaosed, thanks to the above help!! I'm just stuck on 4 coils (2 are the same, so 3 different) as in the below pic... the one with the hand written number is 27-GA-1900. And here are my final boxes of organised coils! Bally and Stern in one box and Gottlieb, Williams and everything else in the other.
[quoted image]
The three I think are Bally's with the listed "E-" number listed on John's page here as "E-184-213" and "E-184-271":
https://flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
The last coil I am assuming means 27 gauge and 1900 wounds? So lower power than a 26-1900 maybe ?
Quoted from pinballj:The three I think are Bally's with the listed "E-" number listed on John's page here as "E-184-213" and "E-184-271":
Yo da maan! That link was certainly the most useful in sorting these things out! Very good reference list!
Curious about what you plan to do with these coils now that you've got them mostly sorted out. I see a good percentage of them have coil sleeves, including a good number with old school aluminum sleeves. My policy is to recycle any coil where I can't remove the coil sleeve by hand (no tools). Looking at the pics, I'm guessing you're going to have a good percentage with stuck sleeves.
I would've sorted by coil sleeve stuckness and broken lugs first (bad), then sorted the good ones by part number. I have a good number of old coils ready for recycling (all bad in some way) and I'm trying to come up with a good method to quickly and easily remove the wire from the bobbins, to significantly increase the value per pound for recycling. Will post something if I get around to it and find a quick method. Clean copper wire is very valuable.
Quoted from phishrace:Curious about what you plan to do with these coils now that you've got them mostly sorted out. I see a good percentage of them have coil sleeves, including a good number with old school aluminum sleeves.
Without giving it much thought my plan is to store them and use them if needed to replace any broken coils in any games I might eventually restore... I'd be surprised if I use even 5% of them!! I agree with your points though!
Quoted from phishrace:these coils now that you've got them mostly sorted out. I see a good percentage of them have coil sleeves, including a good number with old school aluminum sleeves. My policy is to recycle any coil where I can't remove the coil sleeve by hand
On the subject of stuck coil sleeves, most of the sleeves are loose, I just left them there because it's a convenient place to store them, but yes, some were stuck. I didn't imagine a stuck sleeve means a bad coil, so maybe there's a lesson there... that's what you're saying I take it...?
With any new coil, the sleeve will easily slide in and out. If a sleeve is tight or won't move at all, that doesn't mean the coil can't be used. Just my policy to replace them if the sleeve can't be replaced. It's tighter than it should be. You've got lots of duplicates. On those anyway, I would definitely recycle any with stuck sleeves.
Quoted from phishrace:You've got lots of duplicates. On those anyway, I would definitely recycle any with stuck sleeves.
Good point, easy way to get the number down... those storage bins are pretty heavy now... coil stuck test and resistance test is a good way to get the weight down!
Quoted from pinballslave:I've now found 3 versions of Williams AE-23-800 coil... I can't see any place that explains what the difference is between them or if there is any... does anyone understand what the -03 and -12 markings mean??
Cheers!
[quoted image]
It refers to the type of lug (right angle/straight) and where the diodes get mounted. Not really a list of what they actually are, but for the most part they are all interchangeable.
Quoted from slochar:It refers to the type of lug (right angle/straight) and where the diodes get mounted. Not really a list of what they actually are, but for the most part they are all interchangeable.
Thanks, I see it now! The one with no additional numbers has no diode, the -03 has a diode going one way, and the -12 the diode goes the other way...
Quoted from pinballslave:Thanks, I see it now! The one with no additional numbers has no diode, the -03 has a diode going one way, and the -12 the diode goes the other way...
That may not apply to all coils. I recall seeing Bally 26-1200 coils that do have diodes and some that don't for example (They were from about the time that games were being both built as EMs and SSs).
If I recall, most usually had two letters at the beginning of the number (I.E. AE 26-1200) but some didn't.
The thing to keep in mind is that any of those three coils can be used in any application that calls for a 23-800 coil. You can remove the diode, reverse the diode or leave the diode as-is depending on what the game calls for. Diodes are cheap. So don't sort them too much. All 23-800 coils in one pile.
Bobbin size, wire gauge/ number of windings are the only thing you need to sort by for single wind coils. Gets a little trickier with dual wind coils, but it looks like most of yours are single wind.
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Litvinov
Las Vegas, NV