(Topic ID: 288524)

Coil heating up


By rvermeire

4 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Ottawaflip
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#1 4 days ago

I just did a rebuild of 2 (out of 3 flips) on my whirlwind.
The left one keeps on heating up and loses power and already blew up 2 fuses.
The coil has 5.2ohm and gets 68V
When on or in game mode without playing it's not heating up.
Everything is new, coil, eos, coil stop, sleeve, capacitor (already had to change one coil sleeve as it blocked pass through of the plunger)
suggestions ?

#2 4 days ago

Is your end of stroke switch opening up fully with flipper up.?

#4 3 days ago

As noted above, it is either a mechanical issue with your EOS switch, or a wiring issue between the EOS and the coil.

Compare the wiring with the right flipper and ensure the coil diode(s) are oriented the same.

For future reference, you almost never need to replace your coils for a good flipper rebuild. I avoid it for both the cost savings as well as the wiring headaches like this.

GL!

#5 3 days ago
Quoted from chad:

Is your end of stroke switch opening up fully with flipper up.?

Yep it is about 3mm

#6 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is the coil wired right ?
LTG : )

Yes, back as they were originally
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middle black one to the long end of EOS, other black one to the short end of EOS.
yellow/grey cable should be at diode side with the line on.

#7 3 days ago

just because an EOS is new doesn't mean there isn't any resistance.

you would think it should have zero ohms but i have found that every new EOS has resistance and after i run a piece 1000 wet and dry sandpaper the resistance is zero ohms. and make sure the faces of the contacts are 'mating' the best they can, the leaf blades may need a tweak?

different flipper assembly, but all new parts, the reading speaks for itself.

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#8 3 days ago

Mind snapping a picture a little further out so we can see more of the wiring?

For what it's worth, here's a couple of Snipit's of the left flipper out of the manual.
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Looks like the gry-yel is in the right spot, same w/the blu-gry.

Can we get a picture of the EOS? Maybe a short across something in the EOS? As Black_Knight mentioned, it sure does sound like the EOS (or something associated with it) is the likely the culprit.

#9 3 days ago

pics of the new eos, looks ok, just cleaned them with isopropyl acohol
still have to check resistance. In what mode should this be done (off /on /on in game ?)

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#10 3 days ago

detailed pics of soldering EOS

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#11 3 days ago

cables before rebuild (after rebuild post 5).
As you can see I switched the direction of the coil according to VID's tips

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#12 3 days ago

I cannot see the Eos properly, but in the first pictures even though is out of focus the soldering job just looks messy, maybe it is a bad photo?

If it is messy, this is most likely the cause of your problems. A cold joint might be not be having really good contact and the EOS is not switching?

the rest of the soldering does not look good either, lots of burning marks on the coil lugs/plastic? are you using an appropriate soldering iron or a very cheap one?

We can't expect proper electrical connections if our soldering isn't 100% and therefore you will be chasing your tail.

#13 3 days ago

Can you check to make sure the lead isn't shorting out against the bracket? Might as well check the other connection too. Doesn't take much, just a sliver of solder to mess you up.
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#14 3 days ago

Should there be an insulator here? Can't be sure from the picture. You could check the other flipper that is working correctly. Or if it is there, is it worn through?

If I'm not mistaken, the flange needs to be isolated from the leaf switch, otherwise it grounds the leaf switch.

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#15 2 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Should there be an insulator here? Can't be sure from the picture. You could check the other flipper that is working correctly. Or if it is there, is it worn through?
If I'm not mistaken, the flange needs to be isolated from the leaf switch, otherwise it grounds the leaf switch.
[quoted image]

There is a kind of rubber around both plunger cranks (left & right)

#16 2 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

If I'm not mistaken, the flange needs to be isolated from the leaf switch, otherwise it grounds the leaf switch.

The frame and other metal on the flipper mech should not be connected anywhere to the wiring in the game except through the coil lugs and the end of stroke lugs.

People add the heat shrink to the pawl actuator so that the end of stroke switches do not wear prematurely where the pawl lever hits it.

#17 2 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

The frame and other metal on the flipper mech should not be connected anywhere to the wiring in the game except through the coil lugs and the end of stroke lugs.

Yep, that's what I was thinking. Thanks for confirming. It doesn't appear this style of leaf switch has an insulator on the leaf, so the insulator must be on the flipper mech (i.e. heat shrink or the like).

The OP should just be able ohm meter out what likely is a short somewhere. Both during EOS open a closed.

#18 2 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

There is a kind of rubber around both plunger cranks (left & right)

Got an ohm meter?

#19 2 days ago

what measurements should the OP be getting when measuring? for both open and closed?

#20 1 day ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

what measurements should the OP be getting when measuring? for both open and closed?

First thing I would do is to unsolder the EOS from the coil, then check both leads for a short the the flipper bracket. Then manually move the flipper mech to the point it opens the EOS. While the EOS is open, then repeat the test for a short to the flipper between each lead.

With the EOS unsoldered from the coil, the EOS should be completely isolated from the flipper bracket with the heat shrink on the flipper mech.

The one thing I'm not sure about is if the flipper bracket is grounded or not. I no longer have a 90's game to check. So it more about just isolating the obvious, one step at a time.

#21 1 day ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

First thing I would do is to unsolder the EOS from the coil, then check both leads for a short the the flipper bracket. Then manually move the flipper mech to the point it opens the EOS. While the EOS is open, then repeat the test for a short to the flipper between each lead.
With the EOS unsoldered from the coil, the EOS should be completely isolated from the flipper bracket with the heat shrink on the flipper mech.
The one thing I'm not sure about is if the flipper bracket is grounded or not. I no longer have a 90's game to check. So it more about just isolating the obvious, one step at a time.

I do not understand these instructions sorry.

when you say flipper bracket are you referring to the flipper assembly? the bracket that attaches to the PF and coil and EOS are supported by, correct? This is not grounded in a 90's game.

In my opinion this is a non-issue, having the prawn insulated is not mandatory, good practice yes but will not cause the issue discussed on this thread.

#22 1 day ago
Quoted from Ottawaflip:

I do not understand these instructions sorry.
when you say flipper bracket are you referring to the flipper assembly? the bracket that attaches to the PF and coil and EOS are supported by, correct? This is not grounded in a 90's game.

Yes, the flipper assembly. And I completely agree it shouldn't be an issue. But I don't know the OP's ability (or anyone else that worked on it) - was just trying to isolate things one very simple step at a time for the OP.

Appreciate the comment since it shouldn't be grounded. But for some reason something apparently is going on (i.e. pinched wire under the bracket, etc.?). So sort of asking things that shouldn't be an issue just in case.

#23 1 day ago

I am actually interested on how this evolves as I recently run into the same issue and I am in the process of rebuilding my flippers, because the left coil melted.
In my case I suspect a bad EOS switch, but I dont have the ability of testing any further as I am waiting for a package kept hostage by fedex.

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