(Topic ID: 198876)

Travel Time Coil Heat


4 years ago

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  • 5 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by rolf_martin_062
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    0Jubilee-Work-02 (resized).jpg

    #1 4 years ago

    How hot should a coil get? My lock relay coil wrap on my Williams 1970 EM is a tiny bit yellowed. After it has been on for a half hour or so - the coil gets hot. If you hold your fingers 2 inches over it you can feel the heat rising like putting your hand over a birthday candle. I checked my other Williams EM to see if it did the same but it didn't get hot like that. Is this no big concern? I just worry about leaving it on all day (it will be put in an employee break room for a month) and having it just burning up. I know it isn't an emergency or anything but my question is - is this normal and ok?

    #2 4 years ago

    They do get hot. If too hot, the windings might be shorted a bit. It is cheap enough and easy enough to replace if it is a concern and will be left on for extended periods of time.

    I've got a few with burnt paper that are probably past due for replacement, but they still work...

    #3 4 years ago

    SDM0, I was just explaining this to a friend yesterday. Funny.

    Unfortunately, they do get rather hot. They're the only coil in all EM pinball machines that gets locked on whenever the game is fully powered up. It is a necessity to the game's function and it will kill off the entire game without it, unfortunately. It was not a very good design but it is what it is today. The best thing you can do is replace this coil before it even dies (it will help what you are describing and definitely be safer), and if you keep up with the frequent powered-on-ness, I always recommend that in a commercial setting that you replace the coil every few years if it shows signs of needing it.

    The coil you are looking to replace is a Z-28-1150, and I recommend replacing it with the better option given, which is a Z-28-1200 - which will run cooler. These specific coils are already built (and were back then too, of course) to run for these long periods of time, otherwise they'd burn up in a matter of minutes. Less power to move a tiny relay = less heat. Anyways, these replacements have some extra windings on them which gives it a marginally even-LESS amount of power, which in turn, again, makes it run even cooler.

    Check it out:


    Best wishes and good luck with your Williams machine,

    #4 4 years ago

    Another way to go for always on lock relays is to disconnect the coil and wedge in some cardboard to hold the relay in the activated position.

    #5 4 years ago

    Otaku mentions in post-3 the Z-28-1150 and Z28-1200. In the snippet I show - "Jubilee" - we see Z-29-1250 --- it is also used in my "late Williams Big Deal".

    HowardR gives the good advice "to put out of function the Lock-Relay by soldering-off one wire - away from the coil - then wedge in some cardboard to hold the relay in the activated position".
    Doing this we loose the (nice, lovely - but not needed) function "Pressing the left flipper-button lights-up the pin". Well, in the late Williams pins like my Big Deal they did not / no longer implement this feature. We also loose the (seldom used) functionality "we can bang with the fist or the foot upwards onto the bottom of the cabinet to make the Kick-off-Switch open to (kind of) turn-off the pin.

    BUT STILL in my Big Deal and the other "Late Williams" they did mount an Lock-Relay. The reason for mounting an Lock-Relay is: When a game has ended ab-normal and we then toggle-off the game --- when we toggle-on the pin (game before has ended ab-normal): We may have problems starting a new game BECAUSE the functionality*** of the Lock-Relay is put out of order (with HowardR ' s solution) --- see the JPG. IF (if, if) we start a game for four players on a Jubilee - we do NOT play a ball - we toggle-off the pin. THEN when toggling-on we would not be able to start a game by pressing the Replay-Button. See the "encircled red stuff" in the JPG.

    functionality*** - just before the Lock-Relay "really" pulls-in - through a switch (on the Lock-Relay) still closed: An latched Game-Over-Relay is tripped. Greetings Rolf

    0Jubilee-Work-02 (resized).jpg


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