(Topic ID: 46774)

Coil fires on power up/system 11B

By pinstyle

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 30 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by trueno92
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

So, i have a coil that fires breifly but pretty hard upon power up. I think its the out hole kicker since i never see one fire and it sounds close to the front of the machine. Not that it matters, any coil fireing on start up is bad. Anyways, it only seems to do it when the game is powered down for a while. I tried leaving it off for 15-20 minutes and couldnt get it to do it, seems to do it when its off for the day and powered up the next day.

I replaced C30 i believe on the main board which solved the problem of the game not booting reliably (when this occured, you'd have to power it down then back up and it would boot fine.) i was hoping this would also solve the coil fireing on power up issue but it hasnt. It sounds to me like its a capacitor somewhere that is gone bad, possibly on the blanking circuit? Or rest? Im going to investigate all the components in the blanking circuit but can anyone point me in a direction or give me a heads up on the capacitor or the common one to fail?

Stange because if it boots fine, im assuming the blanking circut has done its job of locking out all the coils and giving the ok for the board to boot.

#2 11 years ago

C30 is only part of the story. The below is courtesy of Clay:

first look at capacitor C30 (a 22 mfd 10 volt electrolytic). If you don't have any way to test the capacitor, just clip another 22 mfd electrolytic cap across the leads of the existing C30 cap (positive to positive, negative to negative, a parallel connection). If the board now boots up consistently, you have found your problem! If not, check resistors R55 (4.7k 1/4 watt) and R56 (10 ohm 1/4 watt), and transistors Q34, Q36, Q38 (2N4401).

I'm not saying shotgun the parts, but you might want to check those resistors and transistors just in case.

#3 11 years ago

To test the blanking circuit for proper operation, check U20 pin 2 or U43 pin 3 at power-on, using a logic probe. You should get an initial LO for a few seconds, followed by a continuous HI after the game has booted.

#4 11 years ago

it seems to boot consistantly after i replaced C30, i also replaced C10 on the power board for good measure. I just have that coil that fires briefly on power up. Im trying to look over the schematics now but im at work. I'll look at these other components you mentioned also. I do not have a logic probe, i supose i should finnaly break down and order one.

Thanks guys, any more help is apreciated.

#5 11 years ago

Lots of sys 11 games pulse a coil at power up. I would just ignore it as long as it is a quick pulse.

#6 11 years ago

It hits pretty hard though. Strange that it didnt do it when i first powered it up after i restored the machine and put it all back together. After replacing C30, which solved my inconsistant booting issue, i was sure it solve the "coil firing on start up" issue. Untill i turned it on the next day, thats when i heard the coil fire as it used to do before i broke the game down. It also didnt fire on boot up when i first brought the game home, it always had the inconsistant booting..., i knew that when i bought it. The coil firing thing came around after a few weeks of owning it.

I have to just dig around and see what i find. I did a ton of reading but found nothing that points in a direction as to this particual issue. Somewhere i read i beleive the blanking circuit locks out all coils upon booting, but im not possitive now and im wondering if its the rest line that does that. I'll keep poking and maybe someone has had this issue before, i find it very hard to believe no one has. So perhaps someone will eventually chime in before i (hope to anyways) figure it out.

Thanks again guys.

#7 11 years ago

Logic probes are really cheap, under $20 or $30 bucks. Buy one, test the blanking circuit, at least that way you know. If the blanking circuit is fine, I don't know what to tell you. I have a feeling it's not, but I think it's just a chip or two. I wouldn't beat your head against the wall for too long.

Quoted from pinstyle:

i read i beleive the blanking circuit locks out all coils upon booting, but im not possitive now and im wondering if its the rest line that does that. I'll keep poking and maybe someone has had this issue before

#8 11 years ago

I had something similar happen on Taxi. It fired the knocker and the bell at the same time right when the switch was turned on, except the ringing bell was continuous (I assume the knocker was also stuck on, you'll hear that only once as it fires into the cab). Powered it down immediately and reseated all the cables and pressed down on the socketed chips. Have not had the problem since.

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Logic probes are really cheap, under $20 or $30 bucks. Buy one, test the blanking circuit, at least that way you know. If the blanking circuit is fine, I don't know what to tell you. I have a feeling it's not, but I think it's just a chip or two. I wouldn't beat your head against the wall for too long.

I look into ordering a logic probe Jalpert, it will come in handy.

I'll check the connectors again and see if there are any lose chips just to make sure. I think Jalpert is right though, i think something within the blanking circuit is not functioning properly. The coil doesnt lock on, it just pulses once....really hard.

#10 11 years ago

it might be normal for this to happen but its not supposed to happen..

Things to check. do you have a stuck switch that is getting cool and just barely touching

are your transistors all good? DMM use continuity check and touch the tab of them all any short to ground (With power off) or if you know how test them with diode check.

I assume this is HS2? whats the overall condition of the board when did this issue start?

#11 11 years ago

its my EATPM, the board looks pretty good, no damage or hacks. Im going to start checking all the transistors tonight along with a few other things. I'll see if i can dig anything up.

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

its my EATPM, the board looks pretty good, no damage or hacks. Im going to start checking all the transistors tonight along with a few other things. I'll see if i can dig anything up.

Be careful not to break anything by 'checking'. The problem you seeing is specific to either that coil circuit and/or blanking.. Twisting chips, connectors an poking at stuff will induce ESD and other gremlins if not done knowing what your specifically looking for.

#13 11 years ago

I have this exact problem on my Whirlwind. I'm sorta a noob... what is a C30? Thanks

#14 11 years ago

If the coil pulses but does not lock on, just ignore it. It happens on lots and lots of sys 11 games. Harmless.

It is just noise before the software is fully controlling everything.

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

If the coil pulses but does not lock on, just ignore it. It happens on lots and lots of sys 11 games. Harmless.
It is just noise before the software is fully controlling everything.

Hhmm..., i seem to agree with Spudgunman, i doubt they built a machine that fires coils upon start up. It likely not the transistor since the coil functions fine otherwise. It has to do with the functions that take place upon power up, most likely blanking circuit related as a few tend to agree.

I didnt have a chance to check things tonight. Oddly it didnt do it when i fired it up tonight and my buddy and my sister wanted to play so we just enjoyed ourselves, i will be looking into the issue though.

Ronnie, C30 is on the main board in the reset circuit. It wont solve the issue of a coil fireing during power up (NOT stuck on, but fireing once and otherwise working normally). It may be the culprit if you have a, "i turn my game on and it doesnt boot, but if i turn it off then back on again it boots fine".

The game turned out great, i made a thread a while back showing the B-A-T decals i made and people wanted to see it when i finished. So, i'll either make a new thread or dig that old one up and add pictures there. It might help people who need these decals or the "25 thousand" decals since i saved the work i did and still have the file.

Gerbal singing into mic guy (funny by the way), im careful not to cause other issues while diagnosing another, advice taken though, thank you.

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#16 11 years ago

If it is the same coil firing each time I would be suspicious. But that doesn't mean it's a serious issue, it may run like that forever...or you could spend a huge amount of time trying to pinpoint it.

It could be something minor and quickly found, so it's still worth digging into at least for an afternoon or two. If anything you will come away a little more knowledge. Not to mention, you can always run into something else 'about to cause a problem' on the way. I was researching a flash bulb issue and found two of my three bushing screws on one of my flippers fell out. I would not have seen this until the bushing eventually broke had I not been in there looking for something else.

If it is the same coil you've got one piece of information there and a starting point. If it's repeatable there is another. Sometimes we have less than that to go on. You can take measurements comparing that circuit to another and other avenues of troubleshooting.

#17 11 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

Gerbal singing into mic guy (funny by the way)

Pato works.

Oh and thanks for those BAT decals a while back if I forgot to tell you.

Just as an oh by the way, a lot of Gottleib games do that on purpose on power up to clear out any balls that may be sitting in the outhole or any VUK when the game powers on.

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Pato works.
Oh and thanks for those BAT decals a while back if I forgot to tell you.
Just as an oh by the way, a lot of Gottleib games do that on purpose on power up to clear out any balls that may be sitting in the outhole or any VUK when the game powers on.

For a while it was a electrical flaw on the design of the boards that you can fix - a ball search routine would ideally be clearing these on software and credit start.
Namely they were not clearing the outputs correctly.. Go search "gottleib thunk"

#20 11 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

Pato works.
Oh and thanks for those BAT decals a while back if I forgot to tell you.
Just as an oh by the way, a lot of Gottleib games do that on purpose on power up to clear out any balls that may be sitting in the outhole or any VUK when the game powers on.

no problem Pato.

yea its deffinatly worth looking into. for now i'm going to check a few things but probably put it on ice until i pick up a logic probe. i have my sling shot flashers out that i will be fixing in the mean time. i'll update this if and when i figure out the coil firing issue.

#21 11 years ago

Sorry, I haven't read this all the way through, but as has been mentioned, it is common for a coil to fire on power up on System 11 games. On my Whirlwind, it is the knocker and it makes quite a racket. Ed Cheung has a pretty extensive write up of it on his site. If this is what you are experiencing, don't worry about it.

Scroll down a ways on his Whirlwind page:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album09/pinball/ww.htm

#22 11 years ago

Wow thanks buddy, i just read through Ed's report. Very interesting. I guess i'll have to live with it, thanks for saving me the time and trouble of chaseing ghosts.

#23 11 years ago

So, for what it's worth, this stuff is fresh in my mind because it was happening to my Radical. Sometimes it would power on and sometimes not, but some solenoids would fire every time warm or cold.

I pulled my board tonight, replaced C10, R25 and R26 and it fired right up. Also, no solenoids fired. Once the game turns on, it was okay until the next day, but some solenoids fired every time warm or cold.

Not sure exactly what you want to take away from that, but I'd still test the blanking circuit because it's really easy and you might have an issue.

#24 11 years ago

Ed's report is pretty convinceing. Assuming Ed is missing something and he is wrong (which i doubt he is), the more i think about it the more i think that the blanking circuit is ok, otherwise it wouldnt boot. Its deffinantly the same coil, and it is also possible it is the knocker, even though it sounds like it is comming from the front end of the machine.

When the coil doesnt fire on power up, i get a short buzz/hum sound. When the coil does fire upon power up, there is no short buzz/hum. Its almost like there is a quick pulse of energy that has to go somewhere, sometimes to that coil, and sometimes through the speakers. Ed might very well be right, at least i understand what he is saying and why it happens...

Im not going to worry about it too much but i will check the blanking circuit just for the hell of it. Im starting to think though that im not going to find anything wrong with it.

#25 11 years ago

Identifying the coil shouldn't be that difficult - is it the outhole solenoid? (take the apron off and watch for it)

Like you said, if it's not affecting gameplay and is intermittent so it isn't super critical. You can also use the excuse: when "whatever it is" finally blows and becomes something permanent it will make the troubleshooting process easier.

FWIW: My Taxi Sys11B is dead silent until attract mode starts and you get a beep, every time.

#26 11 years ago

system 11 machines also have coil knocks upon startup if you have a locked on switch or a switch that hasnt registered in awhile is the display asking you to check any switches?

#27 11 years ago

No its not a diagnostic/switch error knock.

#28 11 years ago

So oddly enough since i've been leaving the game plugged in, the coil hasnt fired. I store this game at my moms house since i only have room for one at my house and she enjoys playing them, she likes to unplug things. I'll report back in a while to see how it works out long term, but so far the last few night i went down there after leaving it plugged in, it hasnt fired the coil on power up.

8 years later
#29 2 years ago

Just had this problem recently on Dr. Dude and found this old tread. Knocker coil on every boot when game was not powered on for a few hours. It was a single pulse so it was not diagnostic. Replaced all electrolytic capacitors on the power supply in the low voltage section. Replaced C30 and all three electrolytic capacitors to the left of it on the CPU. The knocks on boot are now gone. I am sure that these games did not leave the factory this way. So replacing these old capacitors seems to do the trick sometimes. I hope this helps someone with this annoying problem.

1 year later
#30 1 year ago
Quoted from ehex9:

Just had this problem recently on Dr. Dude and found this old tread. Knocker coil on every boot when game was not powered on for a few hours. It was a single pulse so it was not diagnostic. Replaced all electrolytic capacitors on the power supply in the low voltage section. Replaced C30 and all three electrolytic capacitors to the left of it on the CPU. The knocks on boot are now gone. I am sure that these games did not leave the factory this way. So replacing these old capacitors seems to do the trick sometimes. I hope this helps someone with this annoying problem.

Gonna try this on a de..

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