(Topic ID: 301676)

Coil Attenuation by Mechanical Means?

By Jason_Jehosaphat

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Rapid_Roy
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 2 years ago

I'm having trouble taming the ball-release coil in my TZ. It punts the ball clear over the diverter into the shooter lane.

I've tried not one but *two* replacement coils, each with a higher resistance than the last. The stock coil is a 26-1200, and I have now tried a 29-2000 and a 30-3000. The ball still sails over the diverter into the shooter lane.

Is it possible to "scrub" some power from the coil by limiting the length of the plunge mechanically? Let me explain. Picture a coil stop that is fully an inch longer than normal. That would stop the plunger sooner than normal, limiting its stroke and thus its power. Make sense? No, I'm not proposing making a custom stop; I'm simply proposing laying a cut segment of plunger inside the coil sleeve before inserting the plunger. With the segment sitting in the coil sleeve on top of the stop, the plunger's stroke will be limited by the length of the segment. Is this likely to work or not? I'm not keen on spending yet another $15 on another coil.

Thanks for reading this post and for any suggestions.

#2 2 years ago

Try adding another plunger spring. That should slow the action down.

#3 2 years ago

You might also try putting a washer around the plunger to limit the total movement through the coil so that it stops before it is fully extended. It could be plastic or rubber to avoid excessive wear in that area. I like the spring idea that chuckwurt had also.

#4 2 years ago

Make sure the plunger, link and bracket are correct. Shorter link or wrong bracket (with stop) will give you more throw.

Also make sure the part that strikes the ball isn't mushroomed. If it is, get a new one. If it's not, bend it slightly so it hits the ball slightly off center of where it hits now. Doesn't take much to change the kickout. Make sure it doesn't interfere with nearby switch actuator.

#5 2 years ago

Thanks, Eric, Dent, and Phish, for your help.
I don't dare bend the kicker arm, but I do know that to be a solution used by some.
Dent suggested a spacer on the plunger to limit its stroke. That sounds handy/easier, but the link on this plunger is shaped like a wedge and a spacer would effectively be a stop for the link. I don't know that a molded plastic link could withstand that kind of pounding. Thanks for the idea though.

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Make sure the plunger, link and bracket are correct.

All the assembly pieces are stock, according to the manual.

Quoted from phishrace:

Also make sure the part that strikes the ball isn't mushroomed.

It looks new. No tip wear at all.

Thanks for your ideas!

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I don't dare bend the kicker arm, but I do know that to be a solution used by some.

It's ok to bend it slightly. You don't need to move it much to get a change. Don't even need a tool. Just bend it slightly using your fingers. You can also try loosening the mounting screws to see if you can get some play there. Just note where it's striking the ball before loosening, then try to tighten it at a slightly different angle. Again, it doesn't take much.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

All the assembly pieces are stock, according to the manual.

Did you order them using the part numbers in the manual? If not and you aren't the original owner, you can't be sure they're correct. I would try replacing the plunger and link at least.

#8 2 years ago

If loosening the mounting screws for the assembly helps, perhaps washers under the mounting for the assembly will help limit the movement of the kicker arm.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Did you order them using the part numbers in the manual?

Yes. I order all my parts that way. The ball-release plunger is 2-1/8", which is slightly longer than the plungers for the auto-fire or slings. I tried a shorter plunger in there and that, with its longer throw, just made it worse.

I will dig and dig until I get an attenuated coil in there before I bend that kicker. Call me crazy, but the kicker wasn't designed (as far as I know) to glance the ball. I have loosened the pivot bracket mounting bolts, hoping to fine-tune the angle of the kicker, but there is too little adjustability there.

#10 2 years ago

I recently had a similar problem. The kicker would launch the ball up into the glass. I tried bending the arm, but to no effect. It didn't even change the trajectory that much. I added an additional return spring to limit the power. It worked, but it bothered me that I had to do it. After carefully studying the mechanism and how the ball sat in the saucer, I noticed there was a gap between the tip of the kickout arm and the ball when the ball was sitting in the saucer. The result was when the kicker was activated the middle portion of the arm was pushing the ball. The ball was launched up instead of out. Apparently, after years of striking the ball the tip had been bent backwards. I bent the tip forward so it would be in contact with the ball when the ball was resting in the saucer. Removed the extra spring, and the ball now fires forward instead of up. I also regained control of adjusting the trajectory.

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