I have a Whrilwind that has had several issuses, i am now trying to solve them slowly one at a time.
The most pressing matters are the ball shooter lane feeder and spinner flasher is locking on.
Due to this, i have not been able to test the other coils/flashers connected to U20.
I suspect that the U20 needs replacement. I measured the +5v on it, and it was +4,6v, is that to low?

I have a new Aux Powerboard from PinballPCB.

All the lights on that board is steady, and i am getting perfect voltages from the newly rebuilt powerboard.

How do i test that the U20 is in fact in need of a replacement?

Skjermbilde 2016-11-30 kl. 10.51.24 (resized).png

Skjermbilde 2016-11-30 kl. 10.50.00 (resized).png

Clarification, one of them. So either the flasher, or the coil

I tested all the transistors quick. And Q9 is dead. Other than that, fine. There is a new aux power board. And d2 gave me the same numbers as the other.
The coil gave me the same resistance as the one I have as a replacement if something breaks.

There might be several things wrong with the game other than flasher/coil lock on. But I am very worried of testing it out.

The reason that I suspect U20 is the rest of the flashers don't work. But it might be a bulb.
This game is at our club house, so I rarely get to go there. (3 hour round trip)

I am reviving this thread.
Still no luck with the machine.
GRUMPY any pointers?

And just to clarify, i have a new Aux power driver board from Kohout that i just put in.

Thank you for taking you time GRUMPY !

Pin 1: 0.16V
Pin 2: 3.26V
Pin 3: 0.19V

We later removed the J11 from the CPU board. and we can hear that the relay is working as it should.
With the J11 removed, all the lights for the Aux Power board lights up.

Base is: 0.00
Collector is: 0.52
emitter: 0.00

That gives me OL. no contact(?)

It doesn`t look like the flasher is locking on anymore...
But q25 is getting barbeque hot. But the coil connected to it is fine with ohm reading.
If we change the Q25, would that help, or is it the predriver?

AE-23-800 coil is reading 5.1 Ohm.

11: 1.86
12: 0.52
13: 3.24

do you mean cut the pin on the U-20?

So just remove J11? or cut the cable that activates Q25 #languagebarrierers

meaning the cable that activates Q25 on J11?

Thank you for your advise, i will order a U-20 and do that.
I will bug you when everything is in place.
Thank you so much for using your time to help me out. Have a great day!

GRUMPY I just ordered N74F08N for U20, I hope it is the right one. A friend of mine found it for me.
and without his help, I wouldn't have come this far.

N74F08N

https://www.elfadistrelec.no/Web/Downloads/_t/ds/sn74f08_eng_tds.pdf?mime=application%2Fpdf

GRUMPY When looking more closely at the schematics, U19 looks like an offending chip as well.
the reason for this is that the C bank on that is not working either.

Can i do the exactly same test on U19, 18 and 17?

the highlighted ones are not working correctly.

Skjermbilde 2017-03-16 kl. 08.15.29 (resized).png

Not locked on, just not working. So my guess is that the chip is dead.
I have disabled the knocker, so i am unsure if that is working, but i guess not.

Once again, thank you for taking you time GRUMPY

We did some more work on the game today.
After changing U20, more things are working. So now the out hole is working, same with the 1 drop target. No flashers are locking on, but neither is working.

I get an error when I go into test menu:Selected c side error 8

C24, 26 and 29 looks like they should be replaced. Could they be part of the problem?

3 bank drop target does not reset. Ball lock kickback does not work.
And ball launcher kick out is dead.
The rest of the machine is working...

U19 pin 1 pulsing
Pin 2 4.2v
My multimeter is to slow to show the exact values

Hi again GRUMPY This machine has never worked as long as i have had it.
It is a plain basket case. I have changed all the caps on the power board, new aux powerboard from Kohout Enterprises.
The powerboard gives me a perfect voltages on the test points.
My friend has put in a new U19 chip, but still no luck.
I will test the SR$ and 12 volts again, and your other suggestions.

Any other suggestions are highly welcome.

Both are pulsing. Do you need the values?

I had to pack my machine down. I will bring it home to do the troubleshooting.
The board is with my tech where he will do a bench test on it. I have read on some other tech topics that a faulty
interconnect board can give you similar faults as i have. Is that something to look into GRUMPY

Calling GRUMPY !

Got the machine home, and the newly serviced board. It has been tested, and it worked fine in bench test. He replaced U28.

The game will not Run the flashers, the up ramp and the drop targets reset.

Suggestions?

Forgot the good news, nothing is locking on, but there is a lot of things not working.
I night this machine in non working order, and slowly things are working! Yay.

Things not working:

If l bottom right c side
If l spinner c side
R ramp up 05 03 a side
2 flasher ramp top jet 05 03 c side
L locking kicker 05 04 a side
2 flasher ramp Top middle million 05 04 c side
2 flash ramp bm/b jet
Knocker 05 06 a side
Ifl ramp bottom 05 06 c side
Mid drop target a side
Flasher mid trip target c side
Compass c side

The rest is kicking fine in test mode, and the flashers in the back panel are working.
I have tested all the coils and flash bulbs.

Hey Grumpy!

Thanks for helping me. I will be back in 4 days to trouble shoot some more.

The yellow purple during coil test is reading 0,17 and during attract 0,18
The purple blue during coil test is reading 0,03 an pulsing to 0,04 and during attract steady 0,05

Thanks a lot @Grumpy!

I will have a look at the board the minutt i get back.

Calling Mr GRUMPY

image (resized).jpeg

I got an interconnect board from a friend, and I have the board that came from the game. That is the lower one, 12313-574.
Is that the correct board for WW?
Looking at R4, that one needs help.
I will look at the board tomorrow with a tech.

Starting to smell like a new board should be ordered.

I had the board worked on by the service guys at today. He changed the R4 and reflowed J8 and J5.

The board looks warped, but that is because of the pano camera in iPhone.

image (resized).jpeg

GRUMPY That did not help anything unfortunatly.

Thank you GRUMPY I will try that when i get home from work.

I did what you said in game mode, and nothing happened.

GRUMPY black lead on ground braid and red on the fuse? Or on the test points?

F4 75V same each side
F1 40,5 same each side

And just for the hell of it I also did
F3 40,5 same each side
F2 a / b 00.1 each side
F7 35,9 same each side
F8 17,7 same each side

That's strange. I beeped all my fuses, all good.
But for the heck of it I put new fuses in 2a and 2c.
2a 0.01 and 2c 0.02
Does that mean that my relay is dead?

It has a W6 jumper. is there something i have not done with the board to config it?

GRUMPY W6 is 40.5 on each side.

I hope the pictures are good enough to make out any problems.
If you want close up of anything that's no problem.

image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg

I just finished changing the coil on the right flipper, and the coil worked fine when I tested it, and suddenly the F5 fuse blew. Could this be linked so all my other problems?

I really hope that the relay is not dead.. Again.
I will try to trigger Q8 manually and see if the relay responds. If not I will send it to pinballpcb to have it fixed.

Thank you for all your help so far!

GRUMPY They are sending me a new relay that i will replace.
It worries me if I replace the relay, that the new one will get fried as well.
Is there any way to make sure that it wont happen?

I also have the old board, is there a way to check if the relay on that is dead?

Thanks a lot for that excellent explanation GRUMPY
I have a new relay shipped to me, I will replace and see if some magic happens.

The old original board measures 640ohm.
So either the relay is bad or wrong relay. Either way, I will soon have the new one up and cross my fingers.

Success!

I am ecstatic with joy right now! Finally, after 2,5 years the game is working.
You where right about the relay on the new board, it was dead. They sent me a new one that I received yesterday and soldered it in today.
Bam! Everything working.

Now it's time to do a top shop of it and play some games.

Do you have any suggestions on how to make the flippers more snappy? Would changing the switch blades help? The new kit I bought from pinball life came with the two blades.

GRUMPY thank you so much for helping me out. I owe you big time! Dinner is on me