Club Spidey (Spider-Man) - Members and guests welcome

(Topic ID: 72252)

Club Spidey (Spider-Man) - Members and guests welcome


By TimeBandit

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,100 posts
  • 188 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by RVApinballer
  • Topic is favorited by 84 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Club Spidey (Spider-Man) - Members and guests welcome”

  • Spider-Man is the best Stern Pin 39 votes
    24%
  • Spider-Man is the best Super Hero Pin 89 votes
    54%
  • Black Spider-Man is Shiny 36 votes
    22%

(Multiple choice - 164 votes by 149 Pinsiders)

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#1022 68 days ago

I just picked up a SM a couple days ago. I removed all the Back Alley mods because I intend to sell them, but I'm not sure what posts are supposed to go where the two remaining holes are ...

SM #1 (resized).jpgSM #2 (resized).jpg
#1023 68 days ago

By the way, if anyone is interested in the Back Alley mods, I have all the buildings, the train, and the Sandman mods. They are all in perfect condition and I am willing to sell the complete set for a very reasonable price. I plan on officially listing them for sale soon, but feel free to PM me if you are interested.

#1025 68 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

The installation instructions on the Back Alley site should help you figure out what was originally there.
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/spiderman-pinball-mods/products/full-spider-man-building-set

Thanks!

#1026 68 days ago

I just realized that I also need a new clear plastic return lane guide. The one on the right side is cracked. Does anyone have a link to this part?

#1028 68 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe this is what you are looking for (BG5 on page 50 of the SM manual) item 550-5037-01:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-return-lane-guide.html

Awesome! I just wish I had realized I needed a new one when I placed a Pinball Life order yesterday ...

#1032 64 days ago

All of the Back Alley mods I had for sale are now sold.

#1034 64 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can anyone confirm if the main wood rail is glued to the playfield or something. I was trying to install a cliffy protector Rhs edge and cannot pry the timber rail away from the playfield. I even removed 4 of the screws holding the rail and the auto kicker mech to see if there were any hidden screws. Anyone else have problems or know of the solution?

I've never seen one glued on a Stern before, but it could be stuck to the playfield. I'm about to install that same Cliffy on mine, so I'll let you know how it goes.

#1037 63 days ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

You actually have to take the screws off of the bubble level as they are really long and go into the play field. That's what's holding it down along with the screws from the bottom of the play field going up into the rail.

Oh, I just realized he was referring to the right hand side protector. I'm not installing that one, only the left side eject protector. I have installed quite a few on the right, though, and I don't recall ever having to remove the screws from the bubble level.

#1042 63 days ago

I installed the cliffy on the trough side today, and it was the same thing. I had to loosen these two long screws from the top in order to remove the wood rail ...

screws (resized).jpg
#1044 58 days ago

I recently bought a set of plastic protectors from Pinbits and it came with a black foam circle and two red spiders. What are these for, and where are you supposed to install them?

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#1046 58 days ago
Quoted from Meegis:

Could be speaker inserts.

Is there two foam discs? Are the spiders smooth?

There is just one foam circle. The spiders still have the protective paper on them, but they appear to be smooth translucent red plastic.

#1048 58 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Those look too small to be speaker inserts unless your hand is huge. Are Pinbits still in business? I thought they had closed up shop which would be a shame.

Yes, the spiders are pretty small. I'd say they're about 1" x 2".
Pinbits is definitely still in business, by the way. I placed my order last week and received it in just a couple days.

1 week later
#1054 46 days ago
Quoted from embryon:

You'll learn lots putting on the protectors. So many parts to be removed. Plan on removing a little more stuff and do a thorough playfield clean. Sm is a bugger to clean and get to things so do as much ad you can at once ie rubbers etc

I just did a full topside tear down. It actually wasn't that bad compared to some other games. The left side where the two ramps overlap is a bit more complicated than the right side. What's nice is that you can clean the entire playfield and replace all the rubbers without removing the Sandman or Doc Ock mechs.

#1063 40 days ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I have about 5 inserts in my Spiderman that strobe really bad with LEDs. I'm using the Cointaker Premium non-ghosting LEDs, and don't have any problems with these LEDs in other games. Other than buying the LED OCD board, does anyone have any suggestions on a bulb that won't have the strobing affect?

I have non-ghosting Comets in mine, and some of them strobe as well. I think LED OCD is the only way to fully eliminate it on this game.

#1072 38 days ago
Quoted from Supersquid:

I put super-bands on my machine for the posts and slings and never get a drain now. Used to always get drains.

The super-band mini-post rubbers are incredibly bouncy.

#1075 38 days ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

So I decided to bite the bullet and order my first LED OCD board for use in Spiderman. For those that have it, and recommendations on the settings for the LED OCD board?

Most people stick with the default settings and are happy with the results. Depending on which LEDs you use, you may want to adjust the brightness for individual inserts if you feel they are too bright. Just make sure you use regular LEDs, not the non-ghosting kind. They will have a wider brightness range and will fade better when being driven by the OCD board.

#1077 38 days ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Herg has a special settings option for SM. He obtained these settings through tuning the lights on my game.

Wouldn't that setting only be optimal if the exact same LEDs are used?

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