Will be joining the club shortly with a last run spiderman red. Just out of curiosity, are any of the ve toys compatible with the movie game or are the fittings different?
installed a genuine stern rev A shaker on my spiderman 2009 build. only connected the shaker motor cable and the 7 pin connector from the cabinet loom and the shaker does not function. It is turned on in diags as moderate.
I then connected the J16 jumper cable that provides the J3 ground trap cabling and connected it to the shaker pcb as well as the filter pcg to the I/O pcb upper switch connector as this is where it connected to my metallica.
turned on and get searching 'pinball missing' error. Tested trough etc and all fine. Removed the J3 ground trap plug still the error, removed the filter pcb still the error. I then disconnected the J16 connector and put back the original one and the error is gone, plays fine but of course no shaker motor action.
any ideas please
Quoted from DCFAN:
If I remember correctly, you need a Rev B shaker.
was told by stern supplier this shaker will work. By the way, does Stern make a Rev B shaker or is it only by aftermarket guys. My supplier has said Stern told him Rev A is their latest version for SAM. I'm so confused with this rev A and B stuff, just can't seem to get a straight answer. Thanks
Could someone download a photo of a Stern Rev B pcb please. I can't seem to find one to compare with what I have
Looks like I may be on trouble then if shaker rev a is not compatible. Wonder why stern then persist with it or list it as being compatible
Well did a little research online and found that the problem could be a grounding issue. So I made my own J3 Ground Tap cable and connected the lug end to a ground braid and the shaking began. All fixed See photos
Just wondering, the speaker panel on spidey red is a boring black. Are there speaker decals for this game and if so which address the best quality, looks and easy to install
Thanks will do. As far as install goes, did you have to take the panel apart to do the job and did you install via the wet method
Quoted from Supersquid:
Buy a set of game blade protectors from Pinball Life. I have a set and they work great. A little expensive for what they are, but worth it not to scratch the side cabinet when lifting play field.
So are these installed each time you want to raise the playfield and lower it. Then you remove the protectors
Been playing with a newly purchased 3D printer and made this pumpkin bomb. Hand painted and think will put one on the other side of Mr goblin
hoping for some advise and/or confirmation. Have purchased a full set of cliffys for my spiderman 2007. The carbon fibre doc ock ring looks like its just sticks onto the playfield and therefore is a little proud on the surface. 1. do I need to raise the magnet level with the cliffy and 2. does the ring being higher than the playfield surface effect shots to the doc ock hole? Is there more lips outs or anything I need to be aware of or need to adjust for?
Yes got ball hop a lot and made it unplayable in my opinion. Put a piece of mylar in front and solved the issue 99% thanks to advice above
Can anyone confirm if the main wood rail is glued to the playfield or something. I was trying to install a cliffy protector Rhs edge and cannot pry the timber rail away from the playfield. I even removed 4 of the screws holding the rail and the auto kicker mech to see if there were any hidden screws. Anyone else have problems or know of the solution?
Excellent will try this. Considered the screws bit thought why would they be so long there's no need and left them. Should have looked regardless when everything was off. I hope you're correct as never had to do this on any other game
Thank you very much supersquid that did the trick. I should have thought about these but didn't do you saved my life on this one. Thanks again
Quoted from gweempose:
I recently bought a set of plastic protectors from Pinbits and it came with a black foam circle and two red spiders. What are these for, and where are you supposed to install them?
Foam for anti bounce back on ock although I dont have an issue so do not have one installed. The spiders I have seen small ones stuck on the web slingers. I have different ones on my game attached there
Quoted from ozdave:
Hi all, got my Stern Spiderman about a
Month ago, was a previous operator machine from Europe, now in a new home in Brisbane, Australia!
It’s a great game and plays well but has had some plays through it! A few things wear and tear that I’m slowly tidying up on it.
Have ordered a cliffy kit and some other bits.
Been a good way to learn a lot about pinball in a short time! Very happy and enjoying tinkering too
You'll learn lots putting on the protectors. So many parts to be removed. Plan on removing a little more stuff and do a thorough playfield clean. Sm is a bugger to clean and get to things so do as much ad you can at once ie rubbers etc
Quoted from gweempose:
I just did a full topside tear down. It actually wasn't that bad compared to some other games. The left side where the two ramps overlap is a bit more complicated than the right side. What's nice is that you can clean the entire playfield and replace all the rubbers without removing the Sandman or Doc Ock mechs.
I just found it terrible in that on first inspection you think itll be easy then you start removing ramps and mechs to do the job. Replacing the rubbers on the very left top lane is a nightmare time wise.
Spidey is a bad design because you basically have to do a full top teardown to get things done. That's why i suggested might as well keep going and shop the game when doing the cliffys. I did. I even reblued the ramp flaps as mine had rusted
Quoted from zene10:
I hear this argument a lot (the VE doesn’t look like the classic SM comic book) in the threads. I own a SMVE (and regret not picking up a NIB SM when they came out).
Neither SM nor SMVE are the “spider-man I grew up with” past a certain period.
I actually prefer the art on The Amazing Spider-Man pin to either SM or SMVE.
So buy what you can afford/like/is available. The game play is the same. You’ll be happy with either.
Skip the rest of the rant below.
As far as the SMVE sucks vs SM ...
SM Doc Ock looks nothing like the classic character from the comics. The Matrix style duster jacket on a finger puppet? SMVE toy Is closer to the original character, except the addition of steroids.
SM Venom toy doesn’t look like Venom introduced in the comics. SMVE venom toy looks less like a finger puppet (SM) but seems to go to the same gym as Ock.
SMVE has a Sandman that at least keeps the striped shirt (again the toy plus steroids. Can you really juice sand?) of the original less the groot face of SM. Again, what’s with the finger puppets in SM?
Are the only characters in SM with legs spider-man and green goblin (on a hover board stolen from Marty McFly)? Is “power of the sun” just a stolen flux capacitor?
SM’s Green Goblin looks nothing like the pointy eared pumpkin throwing original character. SMVE’s super-roided GG is another character completely from a different series. Looks more like Hulk right down to the purple pants. In fact I grabbed the “Hulk Smash!” call out from the Avengers pin and stuck it in for a SMVE GG callout.
Back when I bought my SMVE the difference between a minty HOU and NIB VE was about $1000.
The added cost of the SMVE was worth it not to spend the time or $ to rebuild the flippers and pops of a 10 year old pin and put LEDs in.
Not to mention the pin was delivered to my door instead of spending the time and effort to drive, inspect and transport a used game (possibly repeating this when a ”perfect” game ends up being not as described). SMVE also has additional armor and better magnet protection at Ock.
So in conclusion, both art packages are horrendous. I hate your machine, you hate my machine. All the toys suck. I wish Stern offered a white wood version.
Sorry, you’ll never unsee the finger puppets of SM.
How's your playfield holding out? I've heard that people are getting wear from the Web slinger vuk but only Hearsay. My Sm had no dimples so maybe the extra ock protection was necessary for softer pf?? BTW I've never seen a smve in the flesh but nearly bought one but gble won out.
I wonder if you can interchange smve venom to Sm. And maybe doc ock to remove the finger puppets
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:
Going to get regular SM's metal trim done!
Opinions: Spiderman-blue or chrome?
Currently leaning towards blue...
Blue for me
My only negative about this game is the info screen and the boring dmd extra ball screen. Videos are also bad in most parts and was going a colour display would help. I'm considering bung color dmd but need to hear from those that have it or have seen it on the flesh
Also there is a clear plastic that covers a lot of that area missing from your photo.
Quoted from PeterG:
I also have a last run, indeed webbed armour, no coloroured web pastics on mine all are clear. I have the pegs instead of the service rails, and plastic apron instead of metal. There was a shaker standard. Think that was all.
Yes forgot the rails but mine had no shaker
Quoted from Monk:
Joined the club this past Saturday. Really enjoying it so far. I do have a question about doc ock airballs. It’s seems lately, after changing out coil sleeves on the flipper, that the ball is getting air from the carbon fiber cliffy that is around the magnet and jumping over the optic switch hitting the blue bumper under doc and bouncing out without triggering the optic switch. The magnet feels fairly close to the level of the cliffy protector, but the cliffy is raised up the normal cliffy amount. Anyone have a solution for this? I was thinking about putting a small amount of deadening foam on the blue piece so that the ball would drop right down and trigger the switch on the way out.
[quoted image][quoted image]
place a small piece of mylar in front of the magnet, It will act as a small transition ramp towards the magnet causing the ball not to airball off the cliffy. I had the same problem every now and then. Since mylar install, I may have had a fail or two in hundreds of balls
Made my own shooter rod. 3D printed the head, hand painted, and then heated the rod and installed the head. It won't come off even with a hammer. I think it turned out really well.
Zero percent bounce outs. Have fails prior to adding the Mylar in front of the carbon cliffy.
Quoted from DugFreez:
Here is a better alternative:
You don't want a tourney button on the lockdown bar where you are always bumping it on accident or having to disconnect, run the wire through the lockdown bar receiver just to remove the lockdown bar and then going through the reverse process to put the lockdown bar back on and reconnect the button. After having to resolder my tourney button wires for the second time I thought....."There has to be a better way!"....and there is: Add the button to your coindoor in it's own recessed hole and forget about the ongoing hassles of having the button on the lockdown bar and it's disconnecting and reconnecting hassle every time you want remove the lockdown bar.
I'm not only an endorser..... I'm a partial inventor of it. Dougie's first mod idea and it's still on my Black Spider-Man to this very day.
Don't stern do this now anyway. I know they removed this button completely from my spidey which was in the last run
Got my first problem with spiderman red. It seems to intermittently think I've lost the ball. If it's happens during the ball save time I'll end up with two balls in play otherwise during play my flippers will die, and the bonus count will happen. I had this issue occur 2-3 times in a game.
Do you think it's a trough issue or maybe an outlane switch being activated? Any ideas welcome
Quoted from DCFAN:
It could be that one of the outlane switches is set too sensitive. In SM during a ball save period as soon as an outlane switch is triggered another ball is put into play via the shooter lane.
If it is happening when no ball save is active then I would guess it is the trough opto boards needing to be resoldered or replaced. (A common problem)
It has occurred more times outside of ball save time, and my flippers stop like during end of ball and my bonus count starts even while the active ball is still rolling down towards the drains. So in effect my ball ends before it drains and has happened when in the pops area etc. The next ball ejects as per a new ball. So to try and put it clearer, I'm playing and mid way through playing, the flippers stop and bonus counts like I've lost the ball eventhough it's still in play. Then it goes to ball 2 if the problem occurred during ball 1 and so on. It's never happened on my last ball but would suspect it would go to end of game
So you suspect trough more so? Would optos do this or could the last micro switch be closing for some reason? Also would cleaning the optos help? Thanks
Left ramp quite easy to back hand, doc oc can be done, right ramp I think I've done it but more so accidentally. Have not mastered the right ramp back hand at all
Just an update on my spidey issue. Played a few games and had no unexpected end of balls or two balls in play outside of multiball. However I have notice sometimes and it has happened during a game i have had the sudden end of ball issue that my white mode inserts don't alternate when the slings or pops are hit. Also I noticed only one white insert is lit once I completed all the other white shots and when I make that single white shot the mode starts.
Normally you make all the white shots, then shoot another for the doubler, then one of the orbit shots to start a mode. This issue occurs at random games not all.
Can the trough cause this or am I looking more at software problem? I have the latest code. You think I need to reload the software, it's been OK for more than a year now.
Which inserts have the fading effect? I might try using incandescents only on those so I can see the original effect. Thanks
Getting off my ass after Xmas to solve some issues with my collection. Update weird end if ball stuff. I think it was my trough sw#22 trough jam. Notice this switch was on while ball was draining prematurely. Found both opto pcbs loose and could be rotated a good 5 degrees. Tightened and no issue for one game, but will test play further over the week. Next is twd
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:
Check Feature Adjustment #49
I don't see any blinking on that video...So as you say it's far more likely set to the alternative: dim, but the dimming isn't at all obvious due to the way SAM drives LEDs and the specific Stern factory LED characteristics when driven at low levels. I think they also add a little pair of matrix terminator boards on the SAM boards (bottom left of the left PCB in the backbox - the insert lights come out of these) to reduce LED ghosting, which makes it even worse! so instead of any dimming, we just see it go on or off.
On the original Spiderman the levels are described as:
Villain Level 0 - Off
Villain Level 1 - B2 & B3
Villain Level 2 - B5 & B6
Villain Level 3 - B8
which translates nicely for Herg's guidance at the very bottom of this page: http://www.ledocd.com/usage_led.html
If i had a VE (i have an original), i'd either set FA#49 to Blink for the quick/cheap fix, OR set it to Dimming AND use the OCD board (without the matrix terminator boards).
All that for a really subtle feature
Still a great game.
Am I correct to assume this is for the ve model as I can't find it on my red version
Btw which inserts have the pulsing /blink features. Like is it the green target bombs or the actual goblin mission inserts ie God speed spiderman, suffer the children etc.
Would someone please confirm which ones so I can change them to incandescents and see the effect. Thanks
Quoted from Haggy38:
New in the SP club, finally after one year of begging, I was able to buy a 2007 Spiderman in fair condition from a local arcade park, it needs some restoration but definitely the flippers needs to be replaced, coils, etc, Marcos doesn’t got them on stock..... any other place???? Thanks.
Gustavo[quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome. BTW why do you think the flipper coils need replacing? I always thought coils either work or they don't. Coil sleeves wear though and flipper mechs bind etc.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:
Anyone installed one of the newer stern shaker motors (the ones with the ground and j16 wiring harness included). I’m having a ton of issues.
with that harness in place the ball sensor opto boards are extremely low and give bad readings like there are balls in the lane when there are not(the red lights are extremely faded), with that harness removed they work fine. Tested continuity in the harness and it seems fine. Also tested with different opto boards and same result. why would installing this harness cause the opto boards to not work?
I’m wondering if I can just cut the ground off the harness and splice it into the j16 ground. I did something like that originally when I attached the ground to the cabinet but then the transistor blew (which may not of been related) so I just want to attempt to get it right this time.
Mate I'm having a self isolation party atm so been drinking so can't advise confidently, but I'll check out my notes tomorrow. I made a connection to the ground braid by memory on mine as it went mental when I first installed the shaker. Will chime in later if someone else doesn't beforehand. I'm sure I found the solution on pinside btw
Quoted from dimthedaylights:
great would love any insight anyone has as stern support is currently closed
I like it when you find things quickly. Here is my short note on the job - I looked at the I/O board schematic and realized that the jumper harness supplied with the kit that is supposed to be the ground tap is for newer SAM systems. The ground tap doesn't actually hit ground on anything prior to tron.
Simple fix. Cut the ground tap wire a few feet from the board and screw it into one of the ground braid screws in the cab.
I have attached 3 x photos of what I did on my spiderman red. Now I am assuming you have the stern rev A pcb and cabling that piggybacks in the backbox. I made a tap cable that connected to J3 on the shaker pcb and screwed the other end to a convenient braid strap. First pic is the cable I made, second where it connects on the pcb and last where I screwed it to the cabinet. Hope this helps
Quoted from dimthedaylights:
Amazing!!! Ok I will try this! No downside to grounding in the cab right?
I don't think so but I installed a stern shaker and rev a pcb not any after market unit. Also I didn't splice anything into j16, just ran a cable from j3 on shaker rev a pcb to ground braid
OK I didn't use the cabling that came with the kit that goes to j16. When I did my game went crazy. I just made my own j3 ground tap wire with a lug so I knew my connection was going to be good and all went well.
Quoted from db666:
ColorDMD if you're feeling flush! Not cheap here in Oz bu genuinely enhanced my enjoyment of the game when I put it in - find the animations very hard to see with just orange dots.
Totally agree, the dots to me just looked like a heap of pixelated mess. Add colour and the scenes pop. I couldn't work out the end of game animation until it was colour. I went led colour btw
Quoted from allsportdvd:
Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots[quoted image]
If you find a sandman pladtic I'll have one too lol
Quoted from allsportdvd:
If anyone wants to go in on a Marco order as they have the sandman plastic let me know as I’m not paying $60 USD shipping on 1 plastic
Holly shit. I had a US guy comment on a Tz mini pf I was selling and laughed at me when I told him my sell price. I told him what you reckon it cost me in shipping? The price of a small car I think seeing a plastic is $60usd lol.
Hold off on the order, I'm trying an alt source and will see what cost is and get back to you allsportdvd
Quoted from allsportdvd:
Going through 34 pages of posts, I noticed a few people have a metal plate at the front of their sandman plastic. Where do you get this or a part number?
Are you talking the plate around the rising stand up targets? If so they are cliffy protectors. I think rtbb in Oz may have one in stock else cliffy is the go
Quoted from Supersquid:
backside of the scoop so the ball doesn't hit metal and bounce back. Put them on Doc Ock and Sandman
Does this solve an issue I've been noticing on sandman. I think it has started after installing the cliffy, not right away but after a few months. Sometimes when shooting directly into sandman and sometimes when the diverter stood the ball into sandman, the ball rests at the back of the scoop and not in the hole. You need to shake it pretty hard to get ut to drop causing the odd tilt. Annoying when it happens during a multiball. Any solutions guys? Does it involve removing lots of gear?
Quoted from Supersquid:
Mine did the same thing because there was no Cliffy back there from the previous ownder and the play field got beat up pretty bad. What happens is after awhile, since there is a big space under the Cliffy, it bends from the ball slamming into it from direct shots and makes a big lip for the ball to have to go over and gets stuck. I had to disassemble the whole Sandman area, take off the Cliffy, use KwikWood to fill in the spot and put the Cliffy back on to form it. You have to straighten the Cliffy out first to the shape it is supposed to be. After I did that, it rolls in every time. Also, with the Cliffy, you should have gotten a triangle piece of mylar to put back there that led to the Cliffy to stop the ball from getting stuck as well.
Yes I installed the mylar, so it looks like a bit of a job again. Thanks
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