Quoted from bobukcat:Not only does the Goblin move on the OG but he actually looks like some version of the Green Goblin I've seen before, I don't read the newer Spidey comics so I have no idea what that thing is on the VE. Also as mentioned the J.K. Simmons custom J. Jonah Jameson callouts are some of the best in ANY Stern game, that guy IS the character even in the latest Spidey movie.
Not custom, but Dafoe’s callouts are great too!
Quoted from bobukcat:Not only does the Goblin move on the OG but he actually looks like some version of the Green Goblin I've seen before, I don't read the newer Spidey comics so I have no idea what that thing is on the VE. Also as mentioned the J.K. Simmons custom J. Jonah Jameson callouts are some of the best in ANY Stern game, that guy IS the character even in the latest Spidey movie.
So I joined the club this week (no pics yet, as we are waiting on remaining ice around our doorways to melt, so that we can get it down to the basement). I really wanted the VE for the artwork, updated electronics and whatnot. But I just couldn’t get past the bad music, sub-par voice work and the ridiculously awful Goblin. I am a collector of the Spidey comics since just before the Todd McFarlane era. That generation of Goblin in the VE cabinet is just...the worst. Coupled with the bad voice work/callouts and it was a deal breaker. It’s unfortunate because I loved everything else about the VE. In my opinion the VE could’ve reused at least some of the voice work and been much better. But maybe licensing of the original movie property came into play or expired? I understand that Marvel was likely trying to promote the Ultimate series with this cabinet to some degree, as they were trying to appeal to a new young generation. Again, unfortunately...that generation of Spidey is very lukewarm. Looking forward to playing my OG tonight (hopefully) and getting a color dmd for it very soon!
Quoted from ralphwiggum:I connect two separate pins to one sub all the time. Works well.
If you don't want to make a subwoofer cable, I made a ton of them and added them to my pinside shop- $10 shipped per cable.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1289-youbentmywookie/04827-10-subwoofer-cable
I appreciate everyone’s response.
And I ordered your cable. Thank you
Finally got Spidey set up! I have to say, the Sterns of this era feel pretty solid and well-built. They almost remind me of a Williams sys11 or WPC in that respect (I said almost) It had been many moons since I actually played this game and I forgot how tight the ramp shots are. So much stuff packed into that back area, you’d expect the underside of the playfield to be a mess...but it’s not at all. Seeing as how this is my first SAM game, is there any preventative maintenance I should be considering before I buy frivolous things like a color dmd? The game has a little over 1500 games on the clicker.
15EF3255-C123-44C5-81F4-6A9F97226A44 (resized).jpegE6F838B9-1F9C-4AB2-A8DB-4F854E07EDDD (resized).jpegQuoted from MasterBlaster:Finally got Spidey set up! I have to say, the Sterns of this era feel pretty solid and well-built. They almost remind me of a Williams sys11 or WPC in that respect (I said almost) It had been many moons since I actually played this game and I forgot how tight the ramp shots are. So much stuff packed into that back area, you’d expect the underside of the playfield to be a mess...but it’s not at all. Seeing as how this is my first SAM game, is there any preventative maintenance I should be considering before I buy frivolous things like a color dmd? The game has a little over 1500 games on the clicker. [quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats! SAM is about as bullet-proof from an electronics standpoint as it gets except the tendency to pop the driver transistors under really heavy load like tournaments, at home should be no issue. If your game doesn't have the protector for the plastic back where the Sandman VUK kicks over into the pops AND that plastic is not already broken then I'd suggest you get that ASAP as you can't buy just that plastic piece. Thankfully it's hidden and most owners don't even know that plastic has been broken in my experience. I think that and the right ramp cliffy protector are all that's really important from a preventative maintenance perspective. I like ditching the fluorescent tube in the backbox for a LED panel with auto-blackout from arcadeupkeep.com or make your own (dimming or not) as well as the ColorDMD (I'd recommend LED version for Spidey but either is great) but those are definitely up to personal taste and if you want to spend the cash to get them.
I do agree that these games feel much more solidly built than Spike / Spike 2 for sure, cabinets were not yet cheapened out and the flipper feel is really good.
Quoted from bobukcat:Congrats! SAM is about as bullet-proof from an electronics standpoint as it gets except the tendency to pop the driver transistors under really heavy load like tournaments, at home should be no issue. If your game doesn't have the protector for the plastic back where the Sandman VUK kicks over into the pops AND that plastic is not already broken then I'd suggest you get that ASAP as you can't buy just that plastic piece. Thankfully it's hidden and most owners don't even know that plastic has been broken in my experience. I think that and the right ramp cliffy protector are all that's really important from a preventative maintenance perspective. I like ditching the fluorescent tube in the backbox for a LED panel with auto-blackout from arcadeupkeep.com or make your own (dimming or not) as well as the ColorDMD (I'd recommend LED version for Spidey but either is great) but those are definitely up to personal taste and if you want to spend the cash to get them.
I do agree that these games feel much more solidly built than Spike / Spike 2 for sure, cabinets were not yet cheapened out and the flipper feel is really good.
Thanks for the info! I had read about the sandman ramp but really wasn’t sure what/where to look. Also thanks for the clarification on the dmd...there are two versions on their website and I really wasn’t sure which one was better or even what the difference is between them. I was a bit shocked at how solid the flippers felt on Spidey versus Deadpool. A little unsettling considering I bought DP new in box and Spidey has 1500 plays! Don’t get me wrong, DP still feels like a quality machine but Spidey feels like it’s built like a tank in comparison. Speaking of tanks, my brother said “man, that Gottlieb looks like a monster sitting next to a modern Stern!” Ha! Thanks again and I’m glad to be in the club...this machine has been on my want list for quite some time.
Update, cliffys came in, complete set. Put doc ock mag protector on, placed a price a mylar infront of the protector to act as a ramp to the protector so the ball will register. Put the inland protectors on ( think they look real sick, wish it came with a ton for all the roll overs). Got the city scape side blades coming in hopefully soon. Then that will complete it for the time being, only other things I can think of are biglaw led figure mods, subway, and buildings, but that's what like 600 or so for all that. That would be like a money to burn type thing.
Upgrades as follows:
Color dmd lcd
Flipper fidelity big ten inch speaker package
External polk sub
Cliffys (only inlane protectors and mag protector installed, rest is in a goody bag for next shop out or next owner whichever comes first, prolly shop out)
Flipper rebuild
Target stickers
Art blades (not here yet, delayed due to hell freezing over last week)
One red flipper on left, two black flippers on right
Titan rubbers
Led ocd board
Comet LEDs
Back alley mods updated front end plastics (masked menace)
New balls (but damnit if they arnt already magnetized)
And the glass is scratch less already.
Shaker
Overall awesome game, constantly working out little kinks.
Auto launch wasn't shooting the ball all the way around on bank bust so I sanded the rough parts of the shooter lane and squeezed the fork ends together
Sandman and targets would go up down twice, adjust switches.
Doc ock rejects, used felt pad for the back bottom of the hole and used a furniture pad by 3m on the metal bounce bracket, no rejects since
Bounce outs on orbit, 3m pad on that bracket aswell
Venom shot and left ramp (still fine tuning these but I think I got it best I can)
If anyone has a recommendation for my ball problem and them magnetizing, let me know
And if anyone has any input on venom and left ramp, I got them pretty good now, but left ramp can be kinda slow at times, not quite as fast as right ramp
This is my favorite game in my lineup.
Quoted from BubbaPin:Update, cliffys came in, complete set. Put doc ock mag protector on, placed a price a mylar infront of the protector to act as a ramp to the protector so the ball will register. Put the inland protectors on ( think they look real sick, wish it came with a ton for all the roll overs). Got the city scape side blades coming in hopefully soon. Then that will complete it for the time being, only other things I can think of are biglaw led figure mods, subway, and buildings, but that's what like 600 or so for all that. That would be like a money to burn type thing.
Upgrades as follows:
Color dmd lcd
Flipper fidelity big ten inch speaker package
External polk sub
Cliffys (only inlane protectors and mag protector installed, rest is in a goody bag for next shop out or next owner whichever comes first, prolly shop out)
Flipper rebuild
Target stickers
Art blades (not here yet, delayed due to hell freezing over last week)
One red flipper on left, two black flippers on right
Titan rubbers
Led ocd board
Comet LEDs
Back alley mods updated front end plastics (masked menace)
New balls (but damnit if they arnt already magnetized)
And the glass is scratch less already.
Shaker
Overall awesome game, constantly working out little kinks.
Auto launch wasn't shooting the ball all the way around on bank bust so I sanded the rough parts of the shooter lane and squeezed the fork ends together
Sandman and targets would go up down twice, adjust switches.
Doc ock rejects, used felt pad for the back bottom of the hole and used a furniture pad by 3m on the metal bounce bracket, no rejects since
Bounce outs on orbit, 3m pad on that bracket aswell
Venom shot and left ramp (still fine tuning these but I think I got it best I can)
If anyone has a recommendation for my ball problem and them magnetizing, let me know
And if anyone has any input on venom and left ramp, I got them pretty good now, but left ramp can be kinda slow at times, not quite as fast as right ramp
This is my favorite game in my lineup.
Use regular carbon-steel balls, not "super-shiney" or similarly labeled ones as these have a higher chromium content and can magnetize more quickly. I use standard ones from Pinball Resource and have never had them magnetize in Spidey.
Left ramp is always a little slower / harder to hit cleanly than the right, I think it's just the shape of the ramp and yes misses often lead to SDTM / hard to save returns to the bottom.
General information (covered multiple times in this thread and the ColorDMD thread) on ColorDMD: The LCD provides more options such as Hi-Res, DotsXL, etc that many people (me included) really like in this game but it does not fit as cleanly as the LED version (LCD is a larger panel that sticks up above the speaker / display panel). The LED version has better Reds, uses less power and has better contrast but some don't like the look when powered off (looks a bit grey) or the tiny dots. I don't think you can go wrong with either one.
Quoted from bobukcat:Congrats! SAM is about as bullet-proof from an electronics standpoint as it gets except the tendency to pop the driver transistors under really heavy load like tournaments, at home should be no issue. If your game doesn't have the protector for the plastic back where the Sandman VUK kicks over into the pops AND that plastic is not already broken then I'd suggest you get that ASAP as you can't buy just that plastic piece. Thankfully it's hidden and most owners don't even know that plastic has been broken in my experience. I think that and the right ramp cliffy protector are all that's really important from a preventative maintenance perspective. I like ditching the fluorescent tube in the backbox for a LED panel with auto-blackout from arcadeupkeep.com or make your own (dimming or not) as well as the ColorDMD (I'd recommend LED version for Spidey but either is great) but those are definitely up to personal taste and if you want to spend the cash to get them.
I do agree that these games feel much more solidly built than Spike / Spike 2 for sure, cabinets were not yet cheapened out and the flipper feel is really good.
I agree 100%. I really like that era of Stern games, for some reason. I have had BDK (2008); 24 (2009), and BBH (2010); and I still have POTC (2006), SM (2007), Shrek, CSI and Indy Jones (all 2008) and Tron (2011). They just feel solid to me and have been very reliable.
Hey Spidey Owners
Anyone have videos of the LCD color dmd in their game ?
I read LED has is ups and downs
Any further info would be great
Color dmd website has the same YouTube clip for both versions offered
Thanks
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hey Spidey Owners
Anyone have videos of the LCD color dmd in their game ?
I read LED has is ups and downs
Any further info would be great
Color dmd website has the same YouTube clip for both versions offered
Thanks
Just get a LCD, way more advantages with LCD
Quoted from PinRob:Just get a LCD, way more advantages with LCD
Counterpoint… I have LED in my SMVE and would never replace it with LCD. Much brighter and the colors are more vivid.
I have about half and half LCD vs LED in my 30 pin collection and can attest that both have their merits. Match the style you’re looking for. In the case of my SMVE, I was very happy with the bright vivid colors.
On my LOTR, for example, the LCD matches the darker warmer tone of the pin much better.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hey Spidey Owners
Anyone have videos of the LCD color dmd in their game ?
I read LED has is ups and downs
Any further info would be great
Color dmd website has the same YouTube clip for both versions offered
Thanks
I use LCD, it’s more versatile & I prefer it, but I’ve heard the LED version works better for some of Original Spider-Man’s low-res video cutscenes. Both are a big improvement over a factory DMD, so I doubt you’ll be unhappy whichever way you go.
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Hey Spidey Owners
Anyone have videos of the LCD color dmd in their game ?
I read LED has is ups and downs
Any further info would be great
Color dmd website has the same YouTube clip for both versions offered
Thanks
I have several youtube videos posted of the various modes, search this thread for my posts and you should find the links or just search youtube for it (I'm mobile so pasting the links is not easy).
Spidey Owners with Color DMD -
LCD
what are your settings ??
Mine seems rather dark but see videos with brighter colors from other owners
I like the high res mode but dots looks good to
Any suggestions
Totally happy with how it looks
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Spidey Owners with Color DMD -
LCD
what are your settings ??
Mine seems rather dark but see videos with brighter colors from other owners
I like the high res mode but dots looks good to
Any suggestions
Totally happy with how it looks
I first started high res, but then switched to dotsxl. I like both. But I keep it on dots xl, looks more natural to me. And I had the same thing, looks brighter in others pictures and vids, I've messed with the settings but just chalked that up to how video can amplify light.
anyone try the back alley buildings and train on a Vault edition? curious to see what it looks like. Are they worth it? I'd love to see some photos...
Quoted from bajm:anyone try the back alley buildings and train on a Vault edition? curious to see what it looks like. Are they worth it? I'd love to see some photos...
I had them in my VE before I sold it. You have to get creative, and all of the buildings will not fit well (at least not without more major surgery and looking weird). The train worked pretty well, but was very finicky about positioning. It will not mount as intended, but you can use velcro, bend wire mounts, etc to make it work. It's tight though. A hair down and the ball gets stuck...a hair up and it hits the glass.
The buildings are a different story. The one that goes behind Goblin doesn't fit because he's fatter and sits further back. Without that one in place, the ones on either side look really weird. The best I could do was pick and choose a couple of them that fit decent towards the back. They looked good, but not perfect. The biggest bummer was I ended up destroying the one meant to go behind Goblin while trying to modify it to work. I thought maybe making it thinner or even just using the front face only stuck right to the wall might work, but it looked stupid.
When I sold my VE I decided to keep the mods as I want an original someday, but now I have a messed up building that I probably do not have the skill to make look decent again. Oh well. In all honesty, as much as I like the buildings, they make the game feel a bit crowded. The train seems like a better fit overall, and didn't really feel crowded to me. All cool stuff though, and Matt does amazing work.
Here are a few pics from that machine before I sold it. Maybe someone more skilled than I am could have made them work better though.
I wish I would have held on to that game (man I end up saying that about a lot of them!). Had it in my head I really wanted an original instead, and I still do, but that VE is a very cool machine too. I really like them both...each have advantages and disadvantages. Gotta get myself back in the SM club sometime!
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from bajm:anyone try the back alley buildings and train on a Vault edition? curious to see what it looks like. Are they worth it? I'd love to see some photos...
To me they both seem too BIG and crowding. Too much IMO
Thanks Jediturtle for the pictures and comments... that really helps!
Thanks PinRob for the comments/opinion.
Guess, I’ll probably pass on them for now.
Quoted from Flippermatt:Sm topper tips anyone?
https://tilttopper.com/shop/ols/products/spiderman-pinball-topper/v/SPD-PNB-TPP-BLC-SPD
Tilt topper makes a really nice one. I have his on my Dialed In!, Hulk Avengers, X-Men and STTNG. I am always thinking I'll get this someday for SM. But I currently have a vinyl bank and some AMC toys from one of the recent movies. (And I have the Back Alley Creations houses and train on my game. I like them but they all have to be taken off to lift the play field.)
Quoted from Flippermatt:Sm topper tips anyone?
Matt Mckee Topper best there is. My humble opinion of course
BC0FFF51-98FF-4452-AE0E-C8D6BFB22398 (resized).jpegQuoted from shovelhed:Matt Mckee Topper best there is. My humble opinion of course
[quoted image]
I disagree as it’s redundant with “Spiderman” already on the translite right below it
Quoted from Pinkitten:Does anyone have an extra set of these web sling protectors, or maybe someone bought them and never used them?
I’m very interested in adding a set. Name your price!
Message me.
[quoted image][quoted image]
These came from pinbits. I believe they are no longer in business however I hope someone else starts making them I would reach out to Terry at pinballife.
Harley D.
I don't know if Pinbits is still selling what they have left or if they completely stopped shipping items. Their site shows the web slingers out of stock but this set is shown in stock that includes the web slings:
https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_45&products_id=384
Quoted from ASOA:My custom Spider man Vault Edition. My game also has all of the callouts from J.K. Simmons. He is the best JJ. I love the comic book look of this game. Custom apron with mirror and blue spider flashers. Game also has pinstadiums with Blue Flasher to make it all tie together. Many hours of work. Few more details and it shall be done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Where are you getting the Simmons callouts for the VE,anyone?
Anyone figure out how to program the ocd board on a Mac?
They have a web GUI but I get lost when given instructions that forget what a dummy I am.
Have board. Have Mac.
Have no clue if I should salvage this thing or find some nice incandescent bulbs.
A450C7ED-3216-4B06-9863-BB90010476EB (resized).jpegQuoted from Jamesays:Where are you getting the Simmons callouts for the VE,anyone?
where are you getting these callouts ?
Just picked up an original (red) Spider-man - got a few spotlights out, right hand backboard flasher, and green goblin flasher - should I replace the flashers with LEDs? Do any of you know which original bulbs I should order? Kind of hard to tell in the manual for those two flashers.
Quoted from vikeking27:Just picked up an original (red) Spider-man - got a few spotlights out, right hand backboard flasher, and green goblin flasher - should I replace the flashers with LEDs? Do any of you know which original bulbs I should order? Kind of hard to tell in the manual for those two flashers.
906 no leds in flashers, blinding
Cracked left ramp, make sure you get the extended cliffy on the ramp if it don’t have one. Also make sure both sandman and doc ock motors are working correctly. Sandman plastic is also usually broke. Very solid pin by stern.
Spider-man FULL Plastics set (Yes Sandman) - $350 - available at Pinfest - shipping extra
Spider-Man FULL playfield decal set (Yes Ramps) - $40 - available at Pinfest -shipping extra
Very Nice 2009 Red SM up for grabs
Looking more for a trade but outright is always an option - just like trades as it saves a step
I have a question for the right control gate #8. It was not connected on my pin. What is the purpose of this gate in game?
Quoted from Kjarkur:Does anybody know what's the name of this kind of screws?
[quoted image]
Not sure, but mantis sells a kit with these not attached if you're looking for a source ...
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Spidey Owners with Color DMD -
LCD
what are your settings ??
Mine seems rather dark but see videos with brighter colors from other owners
I like the high res mode but dots looks good to
Any suggestions
Totally happy with how it looks
I have an lCD color DMD and i must say I’m so disappointed with the quality of the images the animations look horrible!
Bone saw is a joke along with multiple modes i can’t even tell what the image is trying to be.
Quoted from V8haha:I have an lCD color DMD and i must say I’m so disappointed with the quality of the images the animations look horrible!
Bone saw is a joke along with multiple modes i can’t even tell what the image is trying to be.
I purchased led and am happy with it, not super impressed but happier than the mono where I had no idea what was going on
Quoted from V8haha:I have an lCD color DMD and i must say I’m so disappointed with the quality of the images the animations look horrible!
Bone saw is a joke along with multiple modes i can’t even tell what the image is trying to be.
They are pretty bad, no matter how well you dial in the settings but make sure you adjust the contrast and definitely turn down the backlight to a very low setting, this will help them considerably. Don't give up after the first attempt and make sure you try the different modes as well. The one thing I'm still disappointed in with the LCD though is the reds are just not very red, closer to pink on mine.
The colorist at colordmd did his best with the poor resolution dots for this title. There are 128x32 dots from a digitized and stretched film frame. You simply can't make it look like a movie. Compare it to the non-colored material and at least you can see some detail provided by the colors.
Quoted from V8haha:I have an lCD color DMD and i must say I’m so disappointed with the quality of the images the animations look horrible!
Bone saw is a joke along with multiple modes i can’t even tell what the image is trying to be.
Quoted from monkfe:Not sure, but mantis sells a kit with these not attached if you're looking for a source ...
Do you perhaps have a link? I even don't know what the name of this kind of screw could be.
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