(Topic ID: 72252)

Club Spidey (Spider-Man) - Members and guests welcome

By TimeBandit

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,516 posts
  • 333 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 days ago by Enron64
  • Topic is favorited by 127 Pinsiders

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“Club Spidey (Spider-Man) - Members and guests welcome”

  • Spider-Man is the best Stern Pin 53 votes
    21%
  • Spider-Man is the best Super Hero Pin 128 votes
    52%
  • Black Spider-Man is Shiny 66 votes
    27%

(Multiple choice - 247 votes by 228 Pinsiders)

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There are 2,516 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 51.
#1651 4 years ago

Almost got to Super Hero for first time today. Have award for EB at 200M

53 Spiders collected.

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#1652 4 years ago

I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.

#1653 4 years ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.

I did LED on mine. The only one that might be too bright is the blue ones for Venom, but I wanted it to be blue. The white under the dome look white when they flash and not blue. I don't mind them, but might not be for everyone.

#1654 4 years ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.

My sandman flashers are incandescent, everything else is color matched led w/ greens being under goblin. Looks good to me!

#1655 4 years ago

full white leds

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#1656 4 years ago
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#1657 4 years ago

Really enjoying my new Spidey but finding the Spider Sense lane very frustrating. Game is level. It the ball hits the metal post and it often hits the top of the sling and bounces to the outlane. My game is set fairly steep at 7.1 or so. Could that be the problem? Does not appear the guide is adjustable, otherwise I could play with that. Do people try to bend the guide a bit? Any thoughts?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1658 4 years ago

That’s why you need the spider sense lane mod. Stops that randomness by exiting back to the shooter lane instead.

#1659 4 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Es por eso que necesitas el mod de carril de sentido de araña. Detiene esa aleatoriedad al regresar al carril de los tiradores.

the same in mine. what is the mod?

#1660 4 years ago

Anyone installed one of the newer stern shaker motors (the ones with the ground and j16 wiring harness included). I’m having a ton of issues.

with that harness in place the ball sensor opto boards are extremely low and give bad readings like there are balls in the lane when there are not(the red lights are extremely faded), with that harness removed they work fine. Tested continuity in the harness and it seems fine. Also tested with different opto boards and same result. why would installing this harness cause the opto boards to not work?

I’m wondering if I can just cut the ground off the harness and splice it into the j16 ground. I did something like that originally when I attached the ground to the cabinet but then the transistor blew (which may not of been related) so I just want to attempt to get it right this time.

#1661 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Anyone installed one of the newer stern shaker motors (the ones with the ground and j16 wiring harness included). I’m having a ton of issues.
with that harness in place the ball sensor opto boards are extremely low and give bad readings like there are balls in the lane when there are not(the red lights are extremely faded), with that harness removed they work fine. Tested continuity in the harness and it seems fine. Also tested with different opto boards and same result. why would installing this harness cause the opto boards to not work?
I’m wondering if I can just cut the ground off the harness and splice it into the j16 ground. I did something like that originally when I attached the ground to the cabinet but then the transistor blew (which may not of been related) so I just want to attempt to get it right this time.

Mate I'm having a self isolation party atm so been drinking so can't advise confidently, but I'll check out my notes tomorrow. I made a connection to the ground braid by memory on mine as it went mental when I first installed the shaker. Will chime in later if someone else doesn't beforehand. I'm sure I found the solution on pinside btw

#1662 4 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Mate I'm having a self isolation party atm so been drinking so can't advise confidently, but I'll check out my notes tomorrow. I made a connection to the ground braid by memory on mine as it went mental when I first installed the shaker. Will chime in later if someone else doesn't beforehand. I'm sure I found the solution on pinside btw

great would love any insight anyone has as stern support is currently closed

#1663 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

great would love any insight anyone has as stern support is currently closed

I like it when you find things quickly. Here is my short note on the job - I looked at the I/O board schematic and realized that the jumper harness supplied with the kit that is supposed to be the ground tap is for newer SAM systems. The ground tap doesn't actually hit ground on anything prior to tron.

Simple fix. Cut the ground tap wire a few feet from the board and screw it into one of the ground braid screws in the cab.

I have attached 3 x photos of what I did on my spiderman red. Now I am assuming you have the stern rev A pcb and cabling that piggybacks in the backbox. I made a tap cable that connected to J3 on the shaker pcb and screwed the other end to a convenient braid strap. First pic is the cable I made, second where it connects on the pcb and last where I screwed it to the cabinet. Hope this helps

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#1664 4 years ago

Amazing!!! Ok I will try this! No downside to grounding in the cab right?

#1665 4 years ago

I’m asking because there’s a bit more to the saga lol I did that originally and blew the transistor On the shaker board. Could of been me could of been a bad board.

Saga here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-shaker-motor-dmd-issues#post-5597107

#1666 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

Amazing!!! Ok I will try this! No downside to grounding in the cab right?

I don't think so but I installed a stern shaker and rev a pcb not any after market unit. Also I didn't splice anything into j16, just ran a cable from j3 on shaker rev a pcb to ground braid

#1667 4 years ago

Alright so update on this nonsense, grounded the wire to the cabinet as suggested and the dmd shows weird issues when the motor is active, with the ground connected to j16 no issues with dmd. I think I may just need a different z connector

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#1668 4 years ago

OK I didn't use the cabling that came with the kit that goes to j16. When I did my game went crazy. I just made my own j3 ground tap wire with a lug so I knew my connection was going to be good and all went well.

#1669 4 years ago

Does anyone think after the Vault comic edition we may see another reskin of Spidey once Marvel and Sony get around to releasing their 3rd Spider-Man and Spidey crossover movie?

#1670 4 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Does anyone think after the Vault comic edition we may see another reskin of Spidey once Marvel and Sony get around to releasing their 3rd Spider-Man and Spidey crossover movie?

Nope

#1671 4 years ago

While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.

What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds

#1672 4 years ago

Also I got a little
Adventurous today and wanted to post if anyone else runs into this. With embryon suggestion of grounding in the cab my dmd would show lines when shaking. So I ran the ground cable above where the ground grounds the display in the backbox. Now we’re shaking away!

#1673 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.
What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds

Either:

Basic frosted sunlight/warm white LEDs everywhere and use an LED OCD board. Colour match your LEDs if you fancy it, adds a level of detail that can lead to headaches when ordering though!

Or

Don’t use LEDs at all. Stick to bulbs.

There’s no middle ground on Spider-Man.

#1674 4 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.
What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds

I used sunlight frosted led's for all GI and did color match led's for the inserts(except yellow, went white on those since yellow led looks orange) and flashers along with an led ocd board. With the led ocd board, you have to get regular led's. DO NOT get the non-ghosting ones.

#1675 4 years ago
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:

I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.

</blockquote
incadescent on flashers, too blinding with led's I think.

1 week later
#1676 3 years ago

Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor

#1677 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor

ColorDMD if you're feeling flush! Not cheap here in Oz bu genuinely enhanced my enjoyment of the game when I put it in - find the animations very hard to see with just orange dots.

#1678 3 years ago
Quoted from db666:

ColorDMD if you're feeling flush! Not cheap here in Oz bu genuinely enhanced my enjoyment of the game when I put it in - find the animations very hard to see with just orange dots.

Totally agree, the dots to me just looked like a heap of pixelated mess. Add colour and the scenes pop. I couldn't work out the end of game animation until it was colour. I went led colour btw

#1679 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Totally agree, the dots to me just looked like a heap of pixelated mess. Add colour and the scenes pop. I couldn't work out the end of game animation until it was colour. I went led colour btw

Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots

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#1680 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots[quoted image]

Got my alternative sling and lane plastics from back alley:

https://backalleycreations.com/collections/spiderman-pinball-mods

They don’t let light through, but if you use LED in the GI then it’s not an issue.

I went with the combo set plus spider sense.

#1681 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots[quoted image]

If you find a sandman pladtic I'll have one too lol

#1682 3 years ago

Curly at Little shop of games sells the sand man plastic.

#1683 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor

my favorite mod is the lit goblin and doc ock. Goblin especially because now I know for sure when that mode starts.
Btw, I like the speaker panel decal... I may have to order one of those

#1684 3 years ago

If anyone wants to go in on a Marco order as they have the sandman plastic let me know as I’m not paying $60 USD shipping on 1 plastic

#1685 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

If anyone wants to go in on a Marco order as they have the sandman plastic let me know as I’m not paying $60 USD shipping on 1 plastic

Holly shit. I had a US guy comment on a Tz mini pf I was selling and laughed at me when I told him my sell price. I told him what you reckon it cost me in shipping? The price of a small car I think seeing a plastic is $60usd lol.

Hold off on the order, I'm trying an alt source and will see what cost is and get back to you allsportdvd

#1686 3 years ago

Going through 34 pages of posts, I noticed a few people have a metal plate at the front of their sandman plastic. Where do you get this or a part number?

#1687 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Going through 34 pages of posts, I noticed a few people have a metal plate at the front of their sandman plastic. Where do you get this or a part number?

Are you talking the plate around the rising stand up targets? If so they are cliffy protectors. I think rtbb in Oz may have one in stock else cliffy is the go

#1688 3 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Are you talking the plate around the rising stand up targets? If so they are cliffy protectors. I think rtbb in Oz may have one in stock else cliffy is the go

No not that one. The metal plate protecting the plastic above the targets

#1689 3 years ago

anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?

#1690 3 years ago

I’d go with lcd so you can choose the Hi Res option

#1691 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I’d go with lcd so you can choose the Hi Res option

I prefer scan lines on sm, but agree lcd all day!

#1692 3 years ago

I like the popping colors of the LED. For all my machines LED all the way. I like the dots.

#1693 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?

LCD

#1694 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?

That's a really tough one, the reds are much, much better on the LED but other mode options on the LCD do a good job of showing the movie clips. I did some videos capturing the various modes with the LCD and one with the LED, they may help you decide what you like best:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgGXX74ZGDZzmnuR9C3SE-A?view_as=subscriber

#1695 3 years ago

not to forget the form factor. LED is one on one, the LCD is way to big and will cast a shadow on the lower part of the translite.

#1696 3 years ago
Quoted from PeterG:

not to forget the form factor. LED is one on one, the LCD is way to big and will cast a shadow on the lower part of the translite.

That's a good point but I never noticed a shadow from the LCD panel until I installed an LED backboard kit, the fluorescent tube is high enough that it isn't nearly as bad.

#1697 3 years ago

Other thing is it will be next to a machine that I just put an led in so will I just compare and wish I did led if I do lcd lol. I still can’t decide!

#1698 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That's a good point but I never noticed a shadow from the LCD panel until I installed an LED backboard kit, the fluorescent tube is high enough that it isn't nearly as bad.

I am just ocd. There is always the dark box in the lower part. Also with The standard tube. Putting a LED next to a LCD makes the black on the LCD look grey. The lcd is real black. IMHO.

#1699 3 years ago

So pulled the trigger went led. But quick question am I supposed to have a visible gap between the display? Should I just reverse the mounting bolts?

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#1700 3 years ago
Quoted from dimthedaylights:

So pulled the trigger went led. But quick question am I supposed to have a visible gap between the display? Should I just reverse the mounting bolts?
[quoted image]

Shouldn’t be a gap

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