I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.
I did LED on mine. The only one that might be too bright is the blue ones for Venom, but I wanted it to be blue. The white under the dome look white when they flash and not blue. I don't mind them, but might not be for everyone.
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.
My sandman flashers are incandescent, everything else is color matched led w/ greens being under goblin. Looks good to me!
Really enjoying my new Spidey but finding the Spider Sense lane very frustrating. Game is level. It the ball hits the metal post and it often hits the top of the sling and bounces to the outlane. My game is set fairly steep at 7.1 or so. Could that be the problem? Does not appear the guide is adjustable, otherwise I could play with that. Do people try to bend the guide a bit? Any thoughts?
image (resized).jpgThat’s why you need the spider sense lane mod. Stops that randomness by exiting back to the shooter lane instead.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:Es por eso que necesitas el mod de carril de sentido de araña. Detiene esa aleatoriedad al regresar al carril de los tiradores.
the same in mine. what is the mod?
Anyone installed one of the newer stern shaker motors (the ones with the ground and j16 wiring harness included). I’m having a ton of issues.
with that harness in place the ball sensor opto boards are extremely low and give bad readings like there are balls in the lane when there are not(the red lights are extremely faded), with that harness removed they work fine. Tested continuity in the harness and it seems fine. Also tested with different opto boards and same result. why would installing this harness cause the opto boards to not work?
I’m wondering if I can just cut the ground off the harness and splice it into the j16 ground. I did something like that originally when I attached the ground to the cabinet but then the transistor blew (which may not of been related) so I just want to attempt to get it right this time.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:Anyone installed one of the newer stern shaker motors (the ones with the ground and j16 wiring harness included). I’m having a ton of issues.
with that harness in place the ball sensor opto boards are extremely low and give bad readings like there are balls in the lane when there are not(the red lights are extremely faded), with that harness removed they work fine. Tested continuity in the harness and it seems fine. Also tested with different opto boards and same result. why would installing this harness cause the opto boards to not work?
I’m wondering if I can just cut the ground off the harness and splice it into the j16 ground. I did something like that originally when I attached the ground to the cabinet but then the transistor blew (which may not of been related) so I just want to attempt to get it right this time.
Mate I'm having a self isolation party atm so been drinking so can't advise confidently, but I'll check out my notes tomorrow. I made a connection to the ground braid by memory on mine as it went mental when I first installed the shaker. Will chime in later if someone else doesn't beforehand. I'm sure I found the solution on pinside btw
Quoted from embryon:Mate I'm having a self isolation party atm so been drinking so can't advise confidently, but I'll check out my notes tomorrow. I made a connection to the ground braid by memory on mine as it went mental when I first installed the shaker. Will chime in later if someone else doesn't beforehand. I'm sure I found the solution on pinside btw
great would love any insight anyone has as stern support is currently closed
Quoted from dimthedaylights:great would love any insight anyone has as stern support is currently closed
I like it when you find things quickly. Here is my short note on the job - I looked at the I/O board schematic and realized that the jumper harness supplied with the kit that is supposed to be the ground tap is for newer SAM systems. The ground tap doesn't actually hit ground on anything prior to tron.
Simple fix. Cut the ground tap wire a few feet from the board and screw it into one of the ground braid screws in the cab.
I have attached 3 x photos of what I did on my spiderman red. Now I am assuming you have the stern rev A pcb and cabling that piggybacks in the backbox. I made a tap cable that connected to J3 on the shaker pcb and screwed the other end to a convenient braid strap. First pic is the cable I made, second where it connects on the pcb and last where I screwed it to the cabinet. Hope this helps
IMG20181008163339 (resized).jpgIMG20181008170353 (resized).jpgIMG20181008170411 (resized).jpgI’m asking because there’s a bit more to the saga lol I did that originally and blew the transistor On the shaker board. Could of been me could of been a bad board.
Saga here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-shaker-motor-dmd-issues#post-5597107
Quoted from dimthedaylights:Amazing!!! Ok I will try this! No downside to grounding in the cab right?
I don't think so but I installed a stern shaker and rev a pcb not any after market unit. Also I didn't splice anything into j16, just ran a cable from j3 on shaker rev a pcb to ground braid
Alright so update on this nonsense, grounded the wire to the cabinet as suggested and the dmd shows weird issues when the motor is active, with the ground connected to j16 no issues with dmd. I think I may just need a different z connector
24B5C6B2-BA6E-42C9-BE41-FD69CD08330A (resized).jpegC296B991-32CB-4349-B94B-9E0E52097837 (resized).jpegOK I didn't use the cabling that came with the kit that goes to j16. When I did my game went crazy. I just made my own j3 ground tap wire with a lug so I knew my connection was going to be good and all went well.
Does anyone think after the Vault comic edition we may see another reskin of Spidey once Marvel and Sony get around to releasing their 3rd Spider-Man and Spidey crossover movie?
Quoted from J85M:Does anyone think after the Vault comic edition we may see another reskin of Spidey once Marvel and Sony get around to releasing their 3rd Spider-Man and Spidey crossover movie?
Nope
While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.
What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds
Also I got a little
Adventurous today and wanted to post if anyone else runs into this. With embryon suggestion of grounding in the cab my dmd would show lines when shaking. So I ran the ground cable above where the ground grounds the display in the backbox. Now we’re shaking away!
Quoted from dimthedaylights:While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.
What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds
Either:
Basic frosted sunlight/warm white LEDs everywhere and use an LED OCD board. Colour match your LEDs if you fancy it, adds a level of detail that can lead to headaches when ordering though!
Or
Don’t use LEDs at all. Stick to bulbs.
There’s no middle ground on Spider-Man.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:While I’m waiting for the shaker motor to hopefully resolve.
What’s the ultimate answer on leds for their machine I’ve read a bunch in this thread but what’s the best kit out there or best way to approach leds
I used sunlight frosted led's for all GI and did color match led's for the inserts(except yellow, went white on those since yellow led looks orange) and flashers along with an led ocd board. With the led ocd board, you have to get regular led's. DO NOT get the non-ghosting ones.
Quoted from Lawtalkinguy:I’m curious how people have their flashers set up? Incandescent or led. If LED, colored vs white? I’m concerned the LEDs are too bright, especially under the domes.
</blockquote
incadescent on flashers, too blinding with led's I think.
Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor
Quoted from allsportdvd:Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor
ColorDMD if you're feeling flush! Not cheap here in Oz bu genuinely enhanced my enjoyment of the game when I put it in - find the animations very hard to see with just orange dots.
Quoted from db666:ColorDMD if you're feeling flush! Not cheap here in Oz bu genuinely enhanced my enjoyment of the game when I put it in - find the animations very hard to see with just orange dots.
Totally agree, the dots to me just looked like a heap of pixelated mess. Add colour and the scenes pop. I couldn't work out the end of game animation until it was colour. I went led colour btw
Quoted from embryon:Totally agree, the dots to me just looked like a heap of pixelated mess. Add colour and the scenes pop. I couldn't work out the end of game animation until it was colour. I went led colour btw
Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots
B45D9832-40B4-49B7-9B62-F71A08F88E57 (resized).jpegQuoted from allsportdvd:Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots[quoted image]
Got my alternative sling and lane plastics from back alley:
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/spiderman-pinball-mods
They don’t let light through, but if you use LED in the GI then it’s not an issue.
I went with the combo set plus spider sense.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Agree the color dmd is a must, it’s just pushing $800 landed her in Australia now so will have to wait. Looking for the sandman plastic and a slingshot option as I hate actors faces on slingshots[quoted image]
If you find a sandman pladtic I'll have one too lol
Quoted from allsportdvd:Just joined the club with a nice original example. What slingshot options are there apart from originals and other mods worth adding? I have a shaker motor
my favorite mod is the lit goblin and doc ock. Goblin especially because now I know for sure when that mode starts.
Btw, I like the speaker panel decal... I may have to order one of those
If anyone wants to go in on a Marco order as they have the sandman plastic let me know as I’m not paying $60 USD shipping on 1 plastic
Quoted from allsportdvd:If anyone wants to go in on a Marco order as they have the sandman plastic let me know as I’m not paying $60 USD shipping on 1 plastic
Holly shit. I had a US guy comment on a Tz mini pf I was selling and laughed at me when I told him my sell price. I told him what you reckon it cost me in shipping? The price of a small car I think seeing a plastic is $60usd lol.
Hold off on the order, I'm trying an alt source and will see what cost is and get back to you allsportdvd
Going through 34 pages of posts, I noticed a few people have a metal plate at the front of their sandman plastic. Where do you get this or a part number?
Quoted from allsportdvd:Going through 34 pages of posts, I noticed a few people have a metal plate at the front of their sandman plastic. Where do you get this or a part number?
Are you talking the plate around the rising stand up targets? If so they are cliffy protectors. I think rtbb in Oz may have one in stock else cliffy is the go
Quoted from embryon:Are you talking the plate around the rising stand up targets? If so they are cliffy protectors. I think rtbb in Oz may have one in stock else cliffy is the go
No not that one. The metal plate protecting the plastic above the targets
anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?
Quoted from allsportdvd:I’d go with lcd so you can choose the Hi Res option
I prefer scan lines on sm, but agree lcd all day!
Quoted from dimthedaylights:anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?
LCD
Quoted from dimthedaylights:anyone steer me in the right direction on colordmd please. I picked one up for my lah and led was the only option. For spiderman i can get either lcd or led, whats best for spiderman?
That's a really tough one, the reds are much, much better on the LED but other mode options on the LCD do a good job of showing the movie clips. I did some videos capturing the various modes with the LCD and one with the LED, they may help you decide what you like best:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgGXX74ZGDZzmnuR9C3SE-A?view_as=subscriber
not to forget the form factor. LED is one on one, the LCD is way to big and will cast a shadow on the lower part of the translite.
Quoted from PeterG:not to forget the form factor. LED is one on one, the LCD is way to big and will cast a shadow on the lower part of the translite.
That's a good point but I never noticed a shadow from the LCD panel until I installed an LED backboard kit, the fluorescent tube is high enough that it isn't nearly as bad.
Other thing is it will be next to a machine that I just put an led in so will I just compare and wish I did led if I do lcd lol. I still can’t decide!
Quoted from bobukcat:That's a good point but I never noticed a shadow from the LCD panel until I installed an LED backboard kit, the fluorescent tube is high enough that it isn't nearly as bad.
I am just ocd. There is always the dark box in the lower part. Also with The standard tube. Putting a LED next to a LCD makes the black on the LCD look grey. The lcd is real black. IMHO.
Quoted from dimthedaylights:So pulled the trigger went led. But quick question am I supposed to have a visible gap between the display? Should I just reverse the mounting bolts?
[quoted image]
Shouldn’t be a gap
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