I added Led to all insert except the villain modes. Those are just colored incandescant lights.
It looks great. The pulsing effect from the villian spotlights is something I have never noticed?
Are these the only lights in the game that work with fading?

How will they do the fading light effects with the new VE? Stern uses all LEDs now so they must have to address this feature right. Maybe the new Spike system does this or do you think the VE will still be SAM? So many questions, can't wait for the reveal!

Picked up a Spiderman late last week. I have owned one before but the experience is even better the 2nd time around, I really enjoy this game. My youngest son has also been enjoying having it to himself this week while his elder brother is away on school camp.

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Yep, IMVE has a neutered light show. All the slow fades and pulses are gone. Luckily they have the menu option so original IM owners can enjoy the show still.

So one can still install the led ocd into IMVE to get the effect right? If SM is ever re-released this seems like it has to be a must do item.

Does anyone know the details of how the end-of-ball bonus is calculated? I'm familiar with the general idea (from http://www.pinballnews.com/games/spiderman/index6.html) but I am having a hard time understanding the large variations I see from one ball to the next. On a 3rd ball with the multipliers on high (i.e. 20x) and a large number of spiders, I may get a 2-3M bonus whereas it is sometimes 10 times that much. It's correlated with the ball time but I still can't pinpoint how the scoring works.

I am in the middle of ledding my SM with pinballbulbs ultimate kit. So, is it so that the only thing
that one should not led are the 4 villain modes in the middle? Or should one not led the whole round
middle section? I haven't noticed the pulsing effect from spotlights, so I think I will led them in any case.

Thanks for any help!

Well I also looked at a standard stock SM. I did also not see any fading effect with the spotlight on the villains, only the four arrows in the ring. The rest of the ring is just on or off. Use good led's because some I tried kept flickering and glowing. Now mine is almost finished, as I noticed one flasher I forgot way back left under Venom. The machine really brightens up with led.

Didn't even realize there was a club...and still not sure if should be sharing this here or another thread?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-bsm-black-spider-man-plenty-of-mods-appreciation-picture-post

some love for a grand slam pin.

for anyone asking, my opinion- LED everything.

That is one hell of a machine, I think this contains all mods out there.

I purchased the Back Alley buildings and train mod. I am still yet to order the lightning for them though.
Is it easy to remove the buildings and train, should I want to install them before lightning arrives or should
I wait until I get the lights? It's just a question of a couple of weeks, but in any case it would be nice to try the
pin with the buildings and train

it's super easy. they're on Velcro and set-pins. Now- on the other hand, it's a bit more of a hassle to work on the machine once you have the lights adhered to the buildings and trains. Not the end of the world- but I'd recommend if you're doing any other work or mods to the machine to perform it before hand and do the light/buildings/train as your last. Great purchase- it's a huge difference maker of a lightshow.

If anyone wants to change clubs I have a beautiful HUO TWD and would love to add a SM. Game is in MD.

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Nice coin door. I like it!

Teo76, gorgeous-
I will be reaching out to you for a TWD premium door

That is one beautiful solution! I like the idea...

Got to super hero for the first time last night but choked on the 2nd level.
Arrrgh!

Just picked up a beautiful SM and I have several questions. Anyone have issues with the ball lock? The diverter post works fine but a fast left orbit shot deflects off the diverter and bounces back out of the saucer entrance and goes back down the right orbit. The game still locks the ball but it does not go into the saucer all the time. Second is LEDing this game. From my understanding the 4 villain inserts in the middle of the playfield dim or get brighter as you defeat multiple levels of each villain and each spot for each villain also dims? I put a premium non ghosting warm white LED in the Sandman insert (yellow) and it strobes/flickers badly. Besides the LED OCD board, is there a better LED I can use to lower the strobing? Comet sells the ultimate optix lamp and they claim it reduces strobing and flickering. What else dims in this game? The mode inserts in the middle to do not dim correct? Thanks for the advice.

First time being a super hero last night and choked immediately but still made for one hell of a great game

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Pinbits sells these spider foam circles and they describe it as 1" foam circles that are used as the fix on SM. What is it fixing?

Use them to prevent bounce-outs from the Doc Ock hole.

Where do you put them, inside the blue pads? That's 2 of them, where's the third one go? Anyone have pictures please. Still looking for an explanation on the ball lock not going into the saucer from a hard left orbit shot. Thanks.

I should be getting my Spiderman back soon but when I had it I think I replaced a post sleeve up in that region somewhere to help prevent the problem you are describing.

No, not the blue pads. When Doc Ock is up the ball goes to the VUK and often bounces out. You put the foam on the rounded chute so the ball will not bounce back out towards the flippers.

There is a picture in this link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sm-adjustments-need-help-dialing-in#post-864132

Also, make sure the magnet core is flush with the playfield so the ball will not jump up and hit the blue pad when Doc Ock is up.

Sorry, I don't see how these foam circles,
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_45&products_id=247
would attach to that chute. Seems like they want you to install it in the saucer? The above link shows the ball dead drop foam put into the chute?

dup

They are drop-dead foam in circular shape. They go where the drop-dead foam is located in the picture posted by Eskaybay in that link I posted. The shape of the foam is irrelevant. Just use regular drop-dead foam instead of the circles.

Another Aussie joining the club! Just got an ex-routed game. Have to watch the tutorial to get most out if it. It's sitting next to my STLE, an even though people like to compare the shot map, they are played very differently.

Interesting thing happening, it does an occasional ball trough empty during a ball, even when multiball is not happening. Even did it randomly during attract mode last night. Anyone seen this problem before? Otherwise seems to play fine.

I'm in...again. Can't let this game go it seems.

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Hi!

I thought I'd post here, since I think my search for a single plastic gets
most attention here.

I have a broken plastic, which I need to renew. Please see the picture, only a
part of the plastic remains! I am not willing to buy the whole plastic set for
this one piece only. So, if you have an extra one (for example, you are
replacing the plastics from the vault edition etc.), do let me know via PM,
I want to buy this plastic from you!

Thanks!

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Has anyone installed a color DMD in SM yet? Even tho the rom is not available the lcd screen in red should look pretty good. If I sell my JD I will have the color DMD and will most likely put it in SM.

Anyone having issues with bounce outs from Doc Oc, the foam circles are great but you can also bend that bracket at the back of that area down a little, I rarely had any bounce outs after that.

Can you explain a little better or perhaps any pictures please? Thanks.

I don't have my old spidey anymore but there is a smaller angled metal bracket that deflects the ball (its behind the scoop) the more you bend it down it deflects the ball more downward instead of back out towards the play field. You don't want to bend it too far though....Hope that helps

I have a Dr Pinball LCD in my SM (not ColorDMD - but similar).

It's set to white and looks great. Doesn't have a Hi-Res mode though. Also got ColorDMD's in ST and Tron, also set to white until a colour ROM potentially arrives, and they all look really good together. I think red would be hard to see.

Don't forget you need a Stern harness to connect it up to your SM, and check the ColorDMD bracket as there are at least 3 versions of it - all with increasing levels of bracket holes for cabinet connection types (i have B/W, Stern and the newer Stern to name but 3).

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I have a ColorDMD in mine. It is linked to my Speaker Light Kit ( speakerlightkits.com ) so it does whatever the light kits do, and I can change the settings with the remote that comes with the speaker lights. I switch it up, but have had it cycling between RBG and like that as it ties in with the villains in the game. I have had it in there for 2 or 3 years. ColorDMD is awesome...now when it gets colorized I'm set!

Phoebe

Just waiting on my VE.

Is there a color that makes the images look any better than a different color?

I set mine to (I think scan lines...) the one with no dots, I always get the names of the different settings mixed up...but anyway, no dots, and the movie scenes look better you can actually tell what some of them are instead of just blobs of red dots! They will look WAY better when they actually get colored (like IM)

Phoebe

is anyone confirmed to be working on coloring though?

She said "when it gets colorized".

Man I wish they would start getting the ves on the line! I can't wait to join the club.

Same here, I want back in the Spidey club fast, I have a little party planned for early march so get that baby rolling off the line Stern!

Wanting to put some warm white LED's in the GI. Does anybody know if any of the GI uses dimming? I thought somebody said the spotlights for each villain dim so is that true and is there any other area that you know of that dims in the GI?

The villain spots are lamps on the matrix (74-77), not GI. So they probably can be dimmed, but it's possibly too subtle for my Spider-senses.

I think the GI is simply on/off, controlled by that clicking relay in the backbox.

Thanks for clarifying that, makes "sense" now.