Congo
Williams, 1995
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
Lord of the Rings
Stern, 2003
Shrek
Stern, 2008
The Simpsons Pinball Party
Stern, 2003
The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard
Data East, 1994
White Water
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rdoyle1978.
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Quoted from MustangPaul:I've found that leds won't fit in those. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
I always shave down the outer ring of the bulb with a dremel to get it through the hole. Works great and I love seeing the buttons light up brighter (plus they don’t get hot!)
Quoted from MustangPaul:I'll try that. Did you leave the bulb cover on?
Yep, for sure; you can get them shaved down just enough that the cover will hold but still fit
Quoted from Rascal_H:Just did my whole Lethal Weapon 3 over in LED. I love the look... but it’s killing my face. Might have to join the club. Seems like an expensive upgrade to cheap ass game... but whatevs.
The first purchase is kind of a leap of faith... after you install, you will never go back
Quoted from akm:Cost seems like an issue for cheap games at first, but if you ever decide to sell the game, you can just take the board back out and pop it in the next one.
#1 it allows you to enjoy the game without being blinded, and #2 the light shows look so much better. Plus it dials down the LEDs by a tiny bit so you’re much less likely to ever have to replace them again!
Shout out to Herg’s incredible customer service - I had a board that wasn’t cooperating, shipped it to him, and he fixed it in what seemed like minutes. I am close to him, so shipping was fast but still! I think I had it back in the game within 2 days.
Quoted from Rascal_H:Got my board yesterday. Might try to get it in my Lethal Weapon today. Hoping it looks good stock so I don’t have to find a computer in my closet haha. How cool would it be if there was an App to configure the lights and you could Bluetooth to it
It looks good stock, dont worry
Quoted from Durzel:Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.
The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.
I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.
Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?
[quoted image]
Help gratefully received...
They are the same board and circuitry. However, the default settings are different, and you’ll want to use the proper settings for your game. If you have WPC95 settings in a WPC89 game, you will be missing 2/5 of the lighting effects.
WPC95 games have 2 GI strings which are basically on all the time, which is also set this way in the LEDOCD default board as you ordered it. You can change it easily, and there are instructions on the site for this.
Also.. TZ is one of the main games to benefit from GIOCD. Are you sure you’re doing it right? IMO it is a must-have for TZ. Perhaps you used the WPC95 settings in your TZ?
Quoted from MK6PIN:Truly can't overstate how cool this product is, and how it works best with standard LEDS (not the non-ghosting types). I always load the recommended settings into my games, then sit w a computer w then game on and start to tweak. Highly recommend taking the time to install the software, and play with the settings on this amazing device.
Absolutely a game changer w some of the new led's out there now...
I’m curious about some of the settings you’ve changed - I’ve always found the default settings to be pretty great, and I admit I’m not observant enough to notice big differences when I change individual settings. The fade time, yes, but what else might one change?
Quoted from Durzel:Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD in my TAF. It was bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.
The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.
I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.
Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?
[quoted image]
Help gratefully received...
One other thing - when you’re installing, you do need to connect to different jumpers, so make sure you fine the WPC89 instructions for your TAF 
Quoted from Durzel:I never installed it in my TZ. None of it has been out of the packaging.
I determined before installing that GI dimming was faulty on my power board in TZ because the GI dim levels do nothing. All of the lights stay on max brightness at any level (they switch on and off correctly according to strings). I assume my Zero Cross is faulty but it's beyond my skills to fix and the game otherwise functions perfectly.
On my TAF with LEDs the dim levels test cause serious strobing effects, so I know the dimming works - in as much as the signal to dim is getting to the bulbs.
Got it - that sucks the TZ won’t do proper dimming - but it works great in TAF as well
Just wanted to bump this thread. I am going down to readjust my Monster Bash GIOCD which, though I’ve had it installed for 6 months or more, I never noticed that it wasn’t deactivating the back box when the other GI strings were off. (Never tested it ? I guess?)
I also want to thank Herg for 2 outstanding boards that are must-have add-ons for these games, and for the ridiculous customer support. I’m sure I’ll be ordering another one soon..
Quoted from herg:Stock WPC95 games do not have the ability to turn off strings 4 and 5, which are typically used for the backbox. The defaults settings of GI OCD handle this by setting those strings to "Always On", and it will operate like the stock game did. You can use the software to use the control input from a different string to control 4 and 5.
Exactly what I did! And it allowed me to remove the Pinbits Blackout Mod entirely. Worked like a charm
Quoted from Durzel:Bit of a useless post but I took a video of my TAF in advance of me trying to fit my LED OCD board again, and was amazed to see that the video looks nothing like it does to me to the naked eye. In the video it looks like the machine is spazzing out, with inserts flashing almost randomly, ghosting being very manifest, etc.
Is this simply how the LEDs are behaving and that my eyes just don't "see" it, or otherwise tune it out somehow?
Dumb question I know.. but it's so weird to see a video that looks nothing like the machine does in person!
herg - I forgot to mention I have LED ring pop bumpers.. they must add a fair amount more load than a single LED. Explains 1.5A blowing at least
Just LEDs being LEDs. One of the challenges of explaining this mod is you ACTUALLY DO need to see it in person, because the cameras can’t capture the difference
Quoted from Durzel:I guess it also explains why some people don't have a problem with LEDs and wonder what the fuss is about. I don't see anything like that video when I'm stood in front of the machine, it just looks normal (albeit digital on-off).
I've heard people complaining of LEDs giving them headaches, and if they're more susceptible to framerates etc (that video was 29.97 FPS - standard iPhone video), and now I can sympathise!
Yep, I can’t really see strobing either, but I DO see flicker when the GI dims, so it’s GIOCD all day long. And I like both mods because of the nicer fading. IMO it is better than the circuitry I see in the remakes (although I dont think there’s any way to really measure that objectively)
Quoted from Durzel:Fitted GI OCD too, worked first time
Some questions though..
1) When I read the settings off the GI OCD all of the strings had 100 in B8 of the range. The software shows that in orange which I presume means unsafe? What should it be by default? The software usage page shows it as 35 in B8!
2) The blinker bulbs (Comet fast and slow) behave weirdly. Doing manual testing on them they don't respond predictably, and don't seem to turn on at all without high values in the B1 setting. They don't dim at all from what I can see.
3) More of a TAF specific thing.. does anyone know what String 4 is supposed to be? From my testing String 1 = Left Playfield, String 2 = House (backglass), String 3 = People (blinkers, backglass), String 5 = Right Playfield.. which leaves?
Thanks in advance.
1) Dial the top level down to 40; that’s is strange it was set higher
as a sidebar, in general don’t check the “advanced” box either, as the boards calculate appropriate ramp values in between your lowest and highest
2) blinker bulbs don’t work real well with GIOCD, although on the site there is a specific FAQ dealing with this and a specific supplier named. You may ask Herg if you can just put incandescents (although don’t do it unless he confirms so you don’t blow the board!)
3) I forget what the strings are - you should be able to see in the menu. Go into test mode and in the GI tests each string is named.
Quoted from Durzel:This is from a long time ago but.. is there any benefit to setting the pulse rate to 1kHz? I think mine was on 500hz, which I presume is the default (also set to 50hz as I'm in the UK). I see "shimmering" in my GI and inserts if I try and set the brightness to much below 10. They are standard Comet 2SMD bulbs (not non-ghosting ones). If the pulse rate isn't likely to make any difference to that, I'll just leave it as it is and carry on leaving it starting on 10.
Some bulbs just don’t go down that low, but you should try the higher refresh rate, the shimmering may go away, that’s what that setting is for.
Quoted from Durzel:Thanks.
I'm starting to wonder whether it's actually worth me routing two USB cables through the front of the machine (the two I received are not long enough to reach the coin door comfortably) given how much I'm already tweaking with it lol.
That’s what I started doing - I don’t tweak them much any longer but it really helped. I think you might be able to use an unpowered USB hub and just connect the 1 cable
Quoted from herg:rdoyle1978 has some really good answers here. Some bulbs don't like going to that low of a duty cycle. Trying the higher refresh rate and making your own determination is a good idea. It may actually make the shimmering worse, depending on the cause, though. If you're seeing bulbs that sometimes don't light at a narrow pulse width, setting it to 1kHz refresh will make that pulse even more narrow. If you're seeing strobing, setting it to a higher refresh rate should help.
Hey I’m paying attention!
I’d really like to do this. Would you guys be willing to send the .stl, or I’d even pay for the shipping. Not only does this protect from any potential shorts, but it has a great “finished” look which helps add to the already great product.
Quoted from mordroc:Hello. I just purchased my first LED-OCD board. I plan to install it in my LOTR today for the insert lighting. My insert lighting is roughly about 85% LED and 15% incandescent. Basically I have currently kept incandescent bulbs for the collection of all the fellowship characters, and the modes around the ring magnet at the top. All the other inserts are LED. From what I have been reading, I am getting the impression that I would blow the fuse because of the amount of incandescent lighting I still have in some of these inserts. Is that true? Also under my Mode Start insert I have a color changing LED. Will there be any issue with how the board handles that type of LED?
Herg should confim, but that sounds like a lot of incandescents to me. You may want to remove some and replace with LED then slowly re-add until you blow the fuse.
So I just got a STTNG and promptly installed the LEDOCD. I’m getting more
Ghosting than I’m used to - and this game appears to have just regular LEDs in it, not nonghosting ones.
I know if there’s a bad diode or other component it can throw off the LEDOCD board - but does anyone have a suggestion on where to start? The main one that is ghosting is the “battle simulation” insert, at the top of the mode wheel.
Quoted from Coyote:Did you adjust the ramps at all? If you push the upper end of the ramp too high, you will get some flickering. (I get it in my TZ on a few inserts even on default values, so I'm sure part of it has something to do with the column/row transistors..)
Pretty sure I left it on the defaults - but I installed it a week ago and haven’t lifted the playfield since, so I will have to check
Broke open my TZ for the first time in months yesterday - is there a recommendation for a place to put the GIOCD when that small board is on the left wall of the backbox? I thought I had seen something.. somewhere, but I can't find it now. I do have the 3d printed bracket, I just can't mount it anywhere
Quoted from Durzel:My small board in my TAF is just cable tied to the loom running along the bottom of the Power Driver Board. My GI OCD board is mounted on the left hand side of the backbox, per the bracket instructions.
There’s pretty much nowhere to mount it other than that really.
Hm, that's what I thought :/ and TZ has another board already occupying that space
Quoted from Durzel:What have you got already occupying that space?
I’ll have to take a photo. There’s a stock board for TZ that sits there. I forget what itis
Quoted from Coyote:Sample games had the 8-driver PCB (that handles a few of the flashers and the 9th switch column) mounted over on the left side of the backbox next to the MPU. Instead of up in the upper right corner where it is in that pic.
I knew you’d come through! Thanks man
Quoted from Coyote:I mounted mine just above the 8-Driver PCB. I left my interconnect board 'floating' - i.e. Not secured to anything.
good idea. I may rework where the board is. My TZ is undergoing a thorough shop job, rewiring, etc right now.
Quoted from Durzel:Can anyone share their GI OCD settings for Twilight Zone please?
I’ve just installed it in my TZ and am getting strange results.. I had a feeling that Zero Cross is not working on my power driver board (LEDs never strobed on an GI dim level even with all options at default) but I knew about that before fitting the board.
Anyway, here’s what I’m seeing:
- With the standard WPC89 settings (String 1 = Input 1, String 2 = Input 2, etc up to 5) my String 3 (Clock & Insert) doesn’t illuminate at all when set to the default Input 3.
- If I set String 3 to be controlled by another Input (e.g. 1 or 2) then it illuminates.
- All other strings seem to work with their corresponding inputs.
- If I use Manual Control in the GI OCD tool I can send different levels of dim properly to each string.
- When on Game Control, none of the strings dim at all - they are at full brightness 100% of the time.
- If I go into the GI test and play with the different brightness levels for different strings nothing changes at all, the game doesn’t even turn off the strings not currently selected (e.g. “Playfield Left” should only illuminate String 1, but everything is on)
Clearly something not right here and am wondering whether it’s an issue with my GI OCD board or the Power Driver Board. Any ideas herg ?
Thanks in advance!
Do you have Ingo's board? It is the only one compatible with the GIOCD ,
And your
Results imply to
Me
Maybe you have an alternative board?
What component on the LEDOCD would go bad to cause a row of lights to lock on? I just spent a few weeks manhandling my PDB thinking a transistor was out, and it turns out it was the LEDOCD . I finally realised I hadn’t removed it for troubleshooting and the lamps suddenly worked correctly. The fuse looks intact.
Quoted from herg:That's most likely a transistor. What revision board is it? What game, and which lamps are stuck on?
Latest revision - Mini Rev 2. It's for TZ; the 8th row in the lamp matrix is locked on - the start button, Ball2, Lock, etc.
Quoted from herg:The latest is Rev3, and the change is to use larger transistors that are much more resilient. I have had zero reports of failed transistors on a Rev3 board.
Row 8 is controlled by Q16. If the board is out of the game, the easiest way to test that it truly is the transistor failed short is to use a DMM on continuity check. Use one lead on J11, pin 9. The other lead on GND.
On a Rev2 board, that is a Infineon IRLML6344. If you are not planning to replace it yourself, you can return it to me for repair. Send me an email.
Let me check again; perhaps I misread the board etching. Seems like I could
Replace this component; no different than a TIP102/107 repair.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Let me check again; perhaps I misread the board etching. Seems like I could
Replace this component; no different than a TIP102/107 repair.
yes, confirmed - it is a Rev 2 mini. I'll give it a shot to replace it - looks relatively simple. Thanks Herg!
Quoted from herg:The CSV files on the website do not contain any settings. They are only for mapping insert names to lamp locations so you can easily tell which lamp is which in the software.
Assuming you didn't make any changes to the settings manually, you will be running the defaults as defined in the PC software. Those defaults work well with normal LEDs, and you shouldn't need non-ghosting. Setting the brightness too high on a lamp can cause ghosting on the adjacent lamp column. Having incandescent bulbs can also sometimes cause ghosting within the same row or column.
If you don't have any incandescent bulbs in the lamp matrix (the start button is a common one that gets missed), try turning down the brightness. If that doesn't fix it, you likely have a problem that is not typical ghosting. A short or other problem can look like ghosting, but the LED OCD settings cannot do anything to correct those kinds of errors.
Crap, I did not realize setting brightness too high can cause ghosting! That is a MAJOR tip!
Herg can confirm, but I believe when you order from his site, you can specify WPC89 or 95, and he will set the board up with the appropriate settings for your game
But if you need to change something, hooking up the cable and opening the software takes about 9 seconds. I see you have a Mac though, from your post it doesn’t sound like you are going to be into running a Windows emulator.
Anyway, You really shouldn’t need to change anything at all for the board to work perfectly well - it can help to make some minute changes and make the game better but it should work fine out of the box.
I’d double check your connections, sounds like you may have a connector or wire that’s off, or (less likely) a bad board. Even if hooked up and your board is set up for a WPC95 game at least 3 of the light strings should come on. If you’ve got none, it’s something else
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Well chalk this up to user error as usual, with the very first step. First ribbon cable I inserted was off by one pin. So hard to see. Seeing all the insert lights out was the clue I had done something wrong. Thank god.
Now let’s see if I can screw up the OCD insert install.
Glad to hear it!! (That you figured it out that is)
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