(Topic ID: 99875)

Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)

By Matt_Rasmussen

5 years ago

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  • 643 posts
  • 118 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by amxfc3s
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#408 2 years ago

Hmm. Just installed the LED and GI OCD in my BoP. Everything was LEDs when I installed it. Things were working great.

Yesterday I installed incandescents into the helmet. It worked great for about 24 hours. I noticed tonight the helmet lights not on. I tracked it to a blown fuse in F2. I replaced the fuse with the same (2A SB) and it blew almost immediately.

herg, do you recommend I replace the fuse in F2 with a 4A SB, or should I be looking elsewhere? Why would the first fuse last a day and the new one burn out after a few seconds?

#413 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

GI OCD is really designed to be used with LEDs, not incandescents.

Of course, the decision to put incandescents in there was based on earlier posts where you indicated the helmet lights weren't controlled directly the same way, so there would be no way to dim/anti-ghost those lights.

Quoted from herg:

BoP is a special case since the helmet lights are not directly controlled by the GI circuits. They get power from GI, but they have an extra level of control in between. Your best option, technically, is to move that one string back to the stock power driver board. This would require some custom cabling, though.

This is what I want to do. I'm up for the challenge. Can you give me some direction on how to achieve this?

#417 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Basically, you would have to build a splitter for the power input so that the transformer could be connected to the GI OCD and the power driver board at the same time. Then, you would build another splitter that would let you connect the helmet GI string to the power driver output while leaving the rest of the strings connected to the GI OCD outputs.

I think I got it. Does it make sense to reconnect all the lines (except the ground) or just a few? Trying to be as minimalist as possible. I suppose re-using the existing 9 wire cable is pretty clean anyway, since it remains in the machine where it was disconnected.

Before I start down this project rat hole, I'm going to try a 4amp fuse and see if it's enough.

#419 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I would connect all of them (except the ground). Only 2 wires would be used in this case, but the connectors are still the same regardless of whether you connect the wires or not. If you don't connect the wires, then someone tries to use them later, it could confuse them and waste a lot of time. ...and yes, I would reuse the existing cable. All you would need is a splitter than uses that square molex connector in the bottom of the cabinet.
Sure, if the 4A fuse gets you to where you want, it would be much easier. Be aware that that 10A SB on the input is not a commonly available fuse. You'll likely have to order it from somewhere like Mouser if you blow it.

I hate to ask such a noob question, but is there a simple way I can measure the draw on that fuse before I do this?

#422 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

TimeBandit is correct. You have to set the DMM to current, insert the DMM probes into the correct holes on the DMM, remove the fuse, and touch the probes to each of the two fuse holder contacts. It is AC current at F1, DC current (PWM'd) through F2-F6.

I got a consistent reading of 3.6 amps, and it dropped as the control cycle on the helmet changed, but nothing higher. Does this imply we can do a 4amp fuse and we're good, or is 3.6 amps on F2 going to push the whole thing over the edge?

#424 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

What do the other strings (F3-F6) measure? 3.6A is pretty high for one string, but should not cause any problems with the driver for that string.

Ok, I did a much more thorough check and also made sure I had my numbering right.

The fuse that is blowing isn't fuse F2, it's F3. I realize now F2 is at the top and F6 is on the bottom, with F1 beneath that.

F2: .65 amps
F3: 3.8amps on startup, 3.65 nominal
F4: .5 amps
F5: .65 amps
F6: .6 amps

What do you think?

#426 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

It's probably OK. I would like to know how hot the bridge and driver transistors are getting, if I was doing it. Worst case, if you blow a transistor, we can fix it.

I'll do my best to measure that for you. Understand that I'd use LEDs in the helmet but the ghosting problems are pretty ugly. Also the flicker is right in your face, and pretty seizure inducing. I wish there were some other way!

#427 2 years ago

Also, do you have a part number on that 10A fuse? I want to make sure I order a few just in case.

#430 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Here's information on all the fuses for our products: http://ledocd.com/fuselist.html

Success. I've replaced F3 with a 4A SB fuse. So far, so good. I'll measure heat as you suggest. Here is a video of your products at work:

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