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Quoted from herg:Blinker bulbs are hit and miss. I have a couple in my SS that work fine. Other in my TZ do not. I use incandescent blinkers in it because of this.
I believe is has to do with how the blinkers are implemented, and if they are without power for long enough they reset their sequence. That doesn't really explain why they wouldn't work at 100%, though. Is it a steady 100, or a ramp with a max of 100?
I have recently made an update to the firmware that increases the pulse rate to 1kHz. Believe it or not, I got a message from a guy that could see strobing at 250 Hz! Anyway, I'm theorizing this increased rate might also help blinker LEDs. I have some on order that I'm going to test. The only bayonet one I have works, but I want to fill all 6 spots in TZ.
I tried steady values, different led, as well as #47 incandescent. No blink. .
Ok, so the incandescent bulbs were not blinkers. The LEDs though absolutely blinked until I installed the gi ocd and now the only will blink on seemingly random configurations.
So incandescent 455 blink. The led 455 don't. Wonder if CT used non ghosting tech for their LED 455.
I have string x set to input x. (3 in this case). Everything else is stock, 1 to 35. I tried 100 to 100, 0 to 100, and no blink so I reverted.
Quoted from herg:100 to 100 still goes to 0 when string 3 is off. Only "Always On" or manual test will stay on all the time. I don't know about whether they have non-ghosting circuitry in them, but if you're sending it DC and the lamp doesn't blink, it's either broken or you're not really sending it DC in the right voltage range.
Unless you're willing to set it to "Always On" permanently, it's not going to matter anyway. Like I mentioned before, I'm hoping that the new firmware will fix it, but I'm running incandescent blinkers in mine for now.
I got it to work after more fiddling, but having to run that string at 100. I'll probably switch back to incandescent until a better led 455 comes out or new firmware fixes it.
Led ocd worked great from the start. There is a reason why I've bought 5 of those. Out of the box its just perfect!
Quoted from herg:The family's napping, so I had a little more time to work on the blinkers. I have a solution, but it's no cakewalk. I disassembled some LEDs and added capacitors to the inside. Since there was a bridge inside of them, I didn't need the diode any longer, just the capacitor. They're the ones from Comet, so I'm not sure about others.
These are bayonet blinkers, so they're more work than the wedge would be.
1. Desolder the bottom contact.2. Break loose the glue holding the metal base on the bottom and remove it.
3. Break loose the glue holding the white plastic ring from the small PCB and remove it.
4. This is a 1uF surface mount ceramic capacitor in an 0805 package. It is just the right width to be able to reach the DC output pins of the bridge.
5. Solder it in place.
6. Reassemble everything, using glue to secure everything again. Sorry, no pictures of this step.
I modified six of them and put them in my TZ with GI OCD. I can now drop the brightness down to 1% and the blinkers still blink.
As you can see, however, it's a bunch of tedious work.
Want to make more of these and sell them? please?
If not, can you help me choose the capacitor - lots of choices here:
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7r?P=1z0z7ymZ1z0wrj5Z1yzmou0&FS=True
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