EDIT: The Dropbox folder has been shut down from non-use. Just thought I'd try, but it is such a personal thing and dependent upon LED selections so I'm not surprised it wasn't popular.

EDIT: I have made a Dropbox shared folder for this topic, for all of us to share setting files.

If you don't have a Dropbox account, you can download the software here (it's free, and awesome)...

http://www.dropbox.com (and if you don't mind, put in my email and kick me a little free storage [email protected]).

Once you have it installed, shoot me a message with your email address that you've associated with your account and I'll share the folder with you. I'll make all users admins of the folder so you can add other users as you see fit and add files to the share.

I'd like to keep the file structure organized from the start, so I was thinking Pinside game initials as the folder, and then name your layouts with your username and mmddyy and version. For example...

In the RBION folder I would save my layout as Matt_Rasmussen090814v1.xls This will hopefully allow us to keep everything neat and tidy for everyone and allow you to find your stuff and manage your files easily without accidentally deleting others work.

ORIGINAL:
Didn't see a club for this yet, but I do think it deserves one. Hopefully Herg approves, I think it would be nice to have everything all in one thread for others to enjoy.

I just picked one up a couple weeks ago for my RBION and even before tweaking it, it made a huge difference in elimination of ghosting and flicker. I understand the machine is somewhat difficult to setup with this board, but the time spent is worth it. Ok, maybe difficult isn't the right word, but the machine uses a lot of effects that make the transition to LED interesting.

I've been messing around with it and have tried the recommended settings for the machine, setting some levels identical to eliminate the most flicker. I have experimented with using all the brightness levels, but setting the delay much higher, right now I'm using a delay of five and an enjoying the heck out of the results.

Curious what others with this machine have tried with their specific LED's, just for a point of reference.

I believe they have Stern ones in stock my friend...

Looks like 33 of them on hand.

http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2

I'm going to be finishing up my LAH soon, all LEDed everything. Flashers, inserts, GI. We'll see what it looks like, but hopefully you have a bunch of boards coming in, because I think people see them, they'll fly off the shelves.

It will be better than it is now, but to say perfect right out of the box...probably not. But I could help...

How much time on average did you spend tweaking your machines?

All inclusive of all LED OCD products...

Well, there is some limitation, you have 8 possible lighting/brightness ramp profiles, of which any one can be selected for every lamp in the game individually. So yes, you could do a custom setting for a single bulb, but you would then have 7 for the rest of your game. But I doubt that there is a game that would require you to do 8 custom settings for 8 single lamps, so maybe limitation isn't a good word, more like 'just the way it works'.

I don't know exactly how it works, but it seems to smooth out the transitions but yet allowing maximum brightness levels. I tried comparing some lights next to each other with the settings that you provided in another thread with my settings with a delay of 5 and it's close, but with my LED's I think the delay of 5 is working for me. I would be curious what you think / how it works with your machine.

I'll give it another look comparing different settings. Thanks for the thoughts..

Hope you got a lot of them.

I'll setup a file share via dropbox, where we all can share our files. Look for another post tomorrow....

Dropbox folder share information moved to first post in the thread...

What does this have to do with LED OCD board?

Yes, amazing mod for sure.

85% is the maximum brightness setting that I've noticed makes a difference, but really depends upon your bulbs. The bulbs I use generally turn on without flicker around 15% and depending upon the game I then do even increments up to 85% as max brightness. Some machines don't use certain values, or, the granularity of the change between them causes flicker if the change is too high, so sometimes you'll have several of the brightness entries the same.

If you follow the help guide on the website it works pretty well teaching you how to properly tweak out a machine will it's on and in a game to properly test your lamp fades and what works and what doesn't.

Two leds would make you remove it, vs all of them?

Yeah, that's the problem with the 'premium' bulbs. Clearly states that on site. Sucks your having trouble though.

I've had LEDs not work in sockets before, even though the sockets were hot. Spring was too compressed or the leads on the bulb were to fine to make good contact etc. Have you bypassed the board and they start working without doing anything else? (I think you can do that from the software...)

And if you set the brightness to 8, I would expect them to be lit at their lowest level, if even at all. My bulbs don't even light until 10%.

Pinball machines are finicky, you're not the only one. I'd make sure the socket themselves are making good contact before you go any deeper/harder, that's a common issue.

How are you going to connect the USB cable?

Question on STTNG GI, especially the shields. Curious what your settings are for that string, I do get fading upon shield damage, but I think it could be more pronounced. Using the shield brightness levels settings I couldn't seem to find a setting in the GI OCD that had a nice gradual fade for a levels. But maybe the game only uses a few levels and not all 8?

Thanks for the advice!

Yes, I've done that, and have it setup there to fade pretty well. Certainly level 7 and 8 are identical in the menu tests. But when the game starts it drops to a different value. I'll just have to spend the time and map out all the actual values used during game play by your technique posted in the usage. Just thought maybe someone already did it.

There's probably a way to edit them somehow, to mimic the limitations of our eyes/brains. Our sight is just designed to reject a lot of those wavelengths of light, much like our hearing is designed to reject a lot of sounds. If you've ever worked with microphones you can tell how well our hearing rejects sounds. Can you imagine waking around and seeing that way all the time?

I'm thinking of terminating the dropbox idea, there isn't much participation. It was a good attempt, but I can see it's limited usefulness with the varying types of lamps, setups, and personal preferences. I'll keep it up for a while longer, but if the submissions don't start happening it'll eventually disappear.

Yeah, really. . Does it with my camera phone and does it with my APC-S sensor, and also my buddies full frame 35mm sensor.

My Sony NEX camera is a CMOS sensor, most camera today are CMOS.

If you're happy with that, then it's good! You don't have to do anything more if you don't want to. Otherwise yeah, that would be fun, run through the program etc.

Hey Herg, I've noticed that sometimes the software has a passthrough mode and sometimes not. Is that feature board dependant?

Look at the instructions online, it's pretty easy.

Hopefully not non-ghosting LEDs.

LED OCD is only partly about removing the ghost effect on standard LED's. It's best feature is incandescent like fading with LED's.