Hey, I just happened to think that Comet Pinball might have a few in stock.
http://www.cometpinball.com/Stern-LED-OCD-Board-p/ledocdstern.htm

Thanks I'll check.

Yes, passthrough is only available on the Williams/DE boards. It is not possible on the Stern boards the way it is currently designed.

OK I just ordered from Comet for my NASCAR, what can I expect as far as hook up and settings. I've never done anything this complicated to a game before. A real greenhorn.

the default settings will probably be all you need. you'll notice instant improvement. installation isn't bad and the instructions are great.

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I'll need it cuz I've never messed around in the bb before except for fuses and batteries. Default is pretty good you say. NASCAR has such great fades and sweeps, I hope I don't have to mess with it.

Detailed instructions are on the website, but here's a summary for a Stern game:
1. Mount the LED OCD board
2. Disconnect 2 cables from the Stern board
3. Connect them to the LED OCD board
4. Connect the 2 included cables to the Stern board where you removed the connectors during step 2
5. Connect the other end of the 2 included cables to the LED OCD board

Other games are a little more involved, but everything will be cables with connectors; no soldering, no alligator clips, no wire splices, etc.

Thanks herg, I'm sure I can handle it. Art just emailed me, he's out too so I'll just have to put the bulbs in and wait for the OCD. Oh well that's life.

Yup. NASCAR has a TON of inserts.

I'm in the middle of shopping my WH2O and will be installing LED's throughout for the G.I. controlled lights and a GI OCD to take advantage WH2O's cool dimming features. Has anyone installed an LED OCD in their WH2O and if so was the difference significant? I'm using Comet 5050's for the inserts and 10MM bullets for the GI (with a couple colored 5050's scattered about). Since I don't have the game back together yet I don't know if there's any ghosting/strobing issues with the inserts.

I'm having difficulty getting the blinking lights in the back box of TZ work with GI OCD. Occasionally setting the max to 100 would work, but only for a few minutes.

Anyone have it working?

Blinker bulbs are hit and miss. I have a couple in my SS that work fine. Other in my TZ do not. I use incandescent blinkers in it because of this.

I believe is has to do with how the blinkers are implemented, and if they are without power for long enough they reset their sequence. That doesn't really explain why they wouldn't work at 100%, though. Is it a steady 100, or a ramp with a max of 100?

I have recently made an update to the firmware that increases the pulse rate to 1kHz. Believe it or not, I got a message from a guy that could see strobing at 250 Hz! Anyway, I'm theorizing this increased rate might also help blinker LEDs. I have some on order that I'm going to test. The only bayonet one I have works, but I want to fill all 6 spots in TZ.

Does using the incandescent blinkers create and issue with power? Ever thought about altering the GI OCD to work like the LED OCD so that you can mix and match as many incandescent lights with LEDs as you please?

Got my boards in Avatar LE and NASCAR. Avatar works perfect right out of the box but it has Comet Ghostbusters in it. NASCAR has the regular leds in it and it needs to be adjusted. Why is this, just a difference in the games?

I tried steady values, different led, as well as #47 incandescent. No blink. .

dont incandescents take a while to "warm up" and blink properly? just going by how my Black Hole operates...

You can use a mix as long as you don't go over 2A per string. It could probably handle more, but the bridge definitely shouldn't go above 10A. I would have liked to make it so that you could still use a bunch of incandescent if you really wanted, but the amount of current required just made the requirements for the bridge and caps too big and expensive.

There are a lot of variables. LEDs, the game's power, ambient lighting, etc. My brother and I have both owned HS2 in the past. I bought him identical LEDs for his, but I ended up using different settings on his. That's why configuration is important.

This is a stupid question, but I have to ask. The LEDs and incandescent are blinkers, right? An incandescent does have to heat up, so there is a minimum value at which they will work. 100% should definitely do it, though. Similarly, with the LED, at 100%, it is straight DC with no PWM. It should work no matter what LED you're using.

Ok, so the incandescent bulbs were not blinkers. The LEDs though absolutely blinked until I installed the gi ocd and now the only will blink on seemingly random configurations.

Can you post your configuration? If they're set to a solid 100%, but the blinker LEDs are erratic, something's wrong.

So incandescent 455 blink. The led 455 don't. Wonder if CT used non ghosting tech for their LED 455.

I have string x set to input x. (3 in this case). Everything else is stock, 1 to 35. I tried 100 to 100, 0 to 100, and no blink so I reverted.

Is see.

100 to 100 still goes to 0 when string 3 is off. Only "Always On" or manual test will stay on all the time. I don't know about whether they have non-ghosting circuitry in them, but if you're sending it DC and the lamp doesn't blink, it's either broken or you're not really sending it DC in the right voltage range.

Unless you're willing to set it to "Always On" permanently, it's not going to matter anyway. Like I mentioned before, I'm hoping that the new firmware will fix it, but I'm running incandescent blinkers in mine for now.

I got it to work after more fiddling, but having to run that string at 100. I'll probably switch back to incandescent until a better led 455 comes out or new firmware fixes it.

Led ocd worked great from the start. There is a reason why I've bought 5 of those. Out of the box its just perfect!

So, a bit of bad news. The new firmware helped a little, but blinker bulbs still do not work reliably. I even set up a test where I pulsed them at 50 kHz, and they STILL didn't work. It's just not going to happen through a firmware update.

The only ways I've been able to get them to work is to increase the duty cycle to 100% or by adding some hardware to the bulb. A capacitor to smooth the power with a diode to keep the other bulbs in the string from stealing it works. I haven't had enough time to figure out how big the capacitor needs to be. Unfortunately, to make this plug and play, the parts would have to go in the bulbs.

The family's napping, so I had a little more time to work on the blinkers. I have a solution, but it's no cakewalk. I disassembled some LEDs and added capacitors to the inside. Since there was a bridge inside of them, I didn't need the diode any longer, just the capacitor. They're the ones from Comet, so I'm not sure about others.

These are bayonet blinkers, so they're more work than the wedge would be.

1. Desolder the bottom contact.
IMG_4086.JPG

2. Break loose the glue holding the metal base on the bottom and remove it.
IMG_4087.JPG

3. Break loose the glue holding the white plastic ring from the small PCB and remove it.
IMG_4088.JPG

4. This is a 1uF surface mount ceramic capacitor in an 0805 package. It is just the right width to be able to reach the DC output pins of the bridge.
IMG_4089.JPG

5. Solder it in place.
IMG_4090.JPG

6. Reassemble everything, using glue to secure everything again. Sorry, no pictures of this step.

I modified six of them and put them in my TZ with GI OCD. I can now drop the brightness down to 1% and the blinkers still blink.

As you can see, however, it's a bunch of tedious work.

I just picked up an LED OCD board for my Spiderman. The guy I bought the SM from put in standard CT 2 SMD bulbs in the whole game and many of them ghosted badly. I love how the board has eliminated the ghosting.

I am having an issue that I can't seem to figure out. All the bulbs are the same standard bulbs. A lot of the inserts have a nice ramp and look like traditional bulbs. However, other inserts flash at double the speed they should and don't have the nice ramp. I've messed around with the delay and ramping pattern and nothing seems to change the fact that they go through the ramp procedure twice as fast. The worst offenders are the red and white spider inserts under Doc Ock, the Extra Ball insert, the H-E-R-O inserts, and all of the center hero/villian mode inserts. Anyone have any ideas?

Have you tried the procedure at the bottom of this page?
http://ledocd.com/usage_led.html

Yep, I tried that. Overall the light is just brighter at the beginning of the ramp, as you'd expect. The lamp still runs through the ramp cycle twice as fast as the others.

Edit: I played around with the settings some more, then set them back to default. Now the game operates as it should while playing a game. I put in the ramp pattern you recommended for the white spider inserts and the villians and it took care of the strobing.

However, my original issue is still present only during attract mode. It isn't a huge deal but it does look kind of funny.

The only way I can think of that it would actually be running through the entire lamp cycle twice as fast would be if the "delay" was set to a lower value. More likely, you are seeing some artifact of the dimming that SM does on those inserts.

If you go into lamp test in the Stern test menus, do you see the same thing? Could you post your settings?

My settings are all on the default level 7 except for the villain inserts and the white spiders, which are on the custom ramp you have posted on your website. If I use the stern menu lamp tests, all lamps behave normally. They also behave normally during gameplay. It's only attract mode. Since I feel you might ask, it didn't act like this before I installed the LED OCD board.

If this becomes too much of a hassle I'll just let it ride as-is. I appreciate your assistance and am very happy overall with the purchase of the board.

As long as you're willing to work on it, I don't let things go very easily. Having outstanding issues bugs the crap out of me. Trying to narrow down what's happening without seeing it is very difficult, though, and everyone describes things differently.

Are you saying that you see a different ramp rate on certain inserts during attract mode, even if all of them are set to the same profile? Does it only do it after changing those inserts? Are the "delay" values of the two profiles the same?

Finally, copying the values from the example exactly will not give you the best results. Those are specific to the type of LEDs used in the test game. If default 7 works well for your LEDs, start with the default 7 values, then make the B2/B3 pair and the B5/B6 pairs match.

Like this:
6 Modified 10 25 25 40 55 55 70 85 2
7 LED 85% 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 85 2

It appears that the ramp up/ ramp down cycle on these lights is running twice as fast as it should. I get two flashes of peak brightness on some inserts during attract mode for every one hit of peak on the majority of inserts. They ramp up and ramp down, but at twice the speed. Again, this is only during attract mode and not during gameplay.

Most of my lights are: 7 LED 85% 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 85 2
I have changed the villians and white spiders to: 40 48 48 60 75 75 90 100 3

Rather than continue to tie up this thread, I'm going to send you a PM. Basically, I'm not sure what you're seeing at the moment, and the questions I'm asking are an attempt to narrow the problem down.

I'll be trying the 455 mod soon! Very cool. Will make Addams Family happier.

To wrap up my issue, after watching some video of other SMs in attract mode, those lights just flash twice as fast as other insert lights. This was not an issue with the LED OCD board. Thanks for the support, Herg!

Want to make more of these and sell them? please?

If not, can you help me choose the capacitor - lots of choices here:
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7r?P=1z0z7ymZ1z0wrj5Z1yzmou0&FS=True

That sounds like my idea of hell! I talked briefly with Art about it, and he didn't say no. He didn't say yes, either. I'm guessing that the number of these that would be used is not high enough to make ordering a batch of them worthwhile.

The capacitor I used was a Yageo CC0805ZRY5V8BB105, but that's only because I had them on hand. The only thing that really matters for this use is the size and value.

Hey guys don't see the Dropbox link ?

Never mind PMed OP

I tried NoFlix Plus 455 blinkers with GIOCD and they work fine out of the box.

Cool. Where did you buy them?

Anyone know if Comet Op-Max work well with GI OCD?

Pretty sure they work fine. I know i own a bunch of them as well as the Quasars, but i will have to check if any are currently in the GI of my STTNG or Funhouse.

Cool thanks, my LED OCD arrives today so I need to find the time to install my insert LEDS and the OCD but GI already has mostly opmax and I can see me wanting GI OCD too

I ordered them from Germany. This is the only place I could find them.

And a correction, they are noflix, not noflix plus for these. I'm using the warm GI version for my test.

http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/noflix-pinball-leds-blinking-lamps-c-22_230.html?language=english

What are you guys setting your delays too, is the default 3 the best? In my case its for a No Good Gofers so WPC95 game. By the way I am still tweaking but will be able to share my config for it using comet 2smd frosted. They are super bright, but since I can tone it down its all good.