Did this with my cointaker flashers, so far so good

Mentioned before, it works good on my machine. (Though, the range of brightness isn't as great on the clock board as the GI string.

Greetings everyone, hope everyone is doing great and staying safe.

New to the OCD boards, got an LED AND GI ordered and haven’t gone through this entire thread yet so apologies if this is already documented somewhere, but if the Dropbox is still open that houses the config\profiles, could someone add me?

I sent a message to Matt but see by his activity that he hasn’t been here since April so I figured I’d ask since everybody added should be an admin?

Just send me a message and I’ll provide my Dropbox email.

Thanks

The profiles give names to the settings, they do not adjust the game, but they are really spot on in general without any adjustments needed.

However there are a couple adjustments to the settings one can make on the OCD board, something like enabling all 5 strings.

here are the profiles:

http://ledocd.com/software/ledocd_data/

Thanks so much, I really appreciate the help and the feedback in my other thread. All that’s left is placing my order at Comet oh yeah and finishing my restore LOL

Youre welcome.

Just installed LED/OCD in my Terminator 2 and WOW, what a difference! Attract mode is no longer harsh to look at. No more ghosting either. Using older Comet 1LED (the ones that I don't think are available anymore), 1SMD and 2SMD bulbs. I missed the soft on/off look of incandescents so much but love the rich colors of LEDs.....and now I have both! Didn't even need to reprogram, looks great right out of the box.

I installed the LEDOCD board in my Funhouse, its awsome!

I do think the red bundled cable set to the driver board could be a half to 1" longer.

Its a very tight fit.

My advice, wire it up before bolting the board down.

Properly mounted so that the backbox bolts are still accessible, and you can get a drill to install the screws in, the red cable will be slightly taught. A little too taught, but workable.

I've reported the same "too tight" issue on the cable set back to Harold a couple of times. Try sending him a note. The more people that alert him might have the effect of fixing the issue with the person he has making the cabling.

Installed comet 2smd bulbs in my RBION: these two lamps are always on: Bonus X (right), Idol 2, A2, lite lock all on constantly.

All comet non-ghosting bulbs, same type. Have changed the bulbs, no change to the issue.

Have changed the brightness settings from default 7 to incandescent, 1, 2 and also turned the bottom end to 0. No change.

What else can I try to get these three bulbs to fall in line?

Problem in the lamp matrix? Check the manual if they happen to be in one row or one column. If so, check the corresponding transistor.

Hmm.. they behave normally when the board pulled.

found out something interesting about nascar. it appears that 5 is the best delay value to use. seems unusually long but this is like playing around with blue ray to tv referesh rate interpolation. i found that a shorter value and some bulbs would be missed or seem slightly not dim when they should be.

say if 6 bulbs in a line are supposed to fire 1x each in a second, that would be 0.1s/bulb, but if the delay is too short, then each bulb may not get enough delay to shut off or max bright within a sequence of bulbs going on/off.

I changed jackpots for a quicker delay of 2 and collect letters at 3.

Then the inserts of the modes and the shot lines can have a smoother effect without confusing any of the other effects such as when jackpot is lit.

60fps Video coming soon, need to free up some space on my phone

Gonna make you whip out the usb cable and install some software...

I handcrafted a profile for nascar and its saweeet.

And noticeable!

Check the

These are all the things i would try.

Weird only 2 bulbs do it...

What happens if i put normal incandescents in there?

Does anyone have a config sheet for Maverick that I could use to start from?

So how do we get these in Canada?

I am in Toronto and ordered mine along with a bunch of LEDs from Comet Pinball. E.g., https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards?_pos=1&_sid=4ec9a18ff&_ss=r

So how do we get these in Canada?

Ah perfect thx!

Boy I’m pretty frustrated. Doing a Jackbot shop job & adding various improvements. I ordered both the OCD boards for the GI and the inserts. Thought his would be pretty straightforward because I understood that tweaking via the software is optional & the boards would work effectively right out of the box.

Installed the OCD GI board. Turned it on & most of the GI bulbs are not working. Just the pops & a string at the back of the playfield are working. Checked connections & install directions, I’ve got everything installed right.

Then I read the troubleshooting section of Hergs site. It said the WPC GI boards come shipped configured for WPC95 games, and if installing in a WPC89/S game, you have to update it via the software. Is that right? Because if I had known that I wouldn’t even have installed this. I’m a Mac guy, I don’t even have a windows laptop for this job.

Anyone care to chime in? Thought I would be be done with this shop job today, and now I’ve opened a whole can of worms.

Also read Jackbot was supported & verified but I don’t even see the data files listed on the site

I should also note that when I go into test mode & test all lamps, then none of the insert lamps come on. They are all off, which seems strange. I didn’t install the OCD insert board yet & didn’t tamper with any of those connection. Starting to think it’s not an issue with the OCD GI software.

I should note all lamps throughout game where working fine before I started the OCD GI install. I’ll have to look closer tomorrow.

Herg can confirm, but I believe when you order from his site, you can specify WPC89 or 95, and he will set the board up with the appropriate settings for your game

But if you need to change something, hooking up the cable and opening the software takes about 9 seconds. I see you have a Mac though, from your post it doesn’t sound like you are going to be into running a Windows emulator.

Anyway, You really shouldn’t need to change anything at all for the board to work perfectly well - it can help to make some minute changes and make the game better but it should work fine out of the box.

I’d double check your connections, sounds like you may have a connector or wire that’s off, or (less likely) a bad board. Even if hooked up and your board is set up for a WPC95 game at least 3 of the light strings should come on. If you’ve got none, it’s something else

Well chalk this up to user error as usual, with the very first step. First ribbon cable I inserted was off by one pin. So hard to see. Seeing all the insert lights out was the clue I had done something wrong. Thank god.

Now let’s see if I can screw up the OCD insert install.

Glad to hear it!! (That you figured it out that is)

Here is a quick before and after video I made with Whitewater. For this game the GI OCD made a huge difference. The LED OCD was more subtle

In the video I compare the GI dimming via the test menu. At some of the levels it strobes quite a bit without the GI OCD.

Copying here as well, from the LOTR owner club thread:

Hi everyone

In the process of swapping my LOTR playfield, I replaced all bulbs with led. Of course, I added a ledocd for good measure, however... There's something very very odd (something which I had not seen in my CFTBL using WPC ledocd)

Basically :
- I have a lot of ghosting if the row (or column, can't remember) is activated. For example if I turn on the Legolas arrow, all inserts below (dwarf, elf, man) turn on dimly. Yes I used cheap non ghosting leds, that was actually the point
- in manual control I have a stable brightness level, however in game mode there is a lot of flickering, especially when the insert reach full brightness
- all backboard insert remain lit dimly (so ghosting), even though they should be completely off (even in manual mode). Looks like there is a residual voltage (this applies to all potd lights, and all mission lights)
- The sword lane inserts are also almost fully lit, even in off mode, although that could be a design choice. When testing them in test mode, they do lit slightly more when selected

Has anyone encountered these issues?

Sidenote... Fitting a pinsound and a ledocd in the backbox is quite an endeavor...

Does anyone have a Capcom LED OCD board they'd sell?

Or does anyone know if there is an alternative solution for Capcom? Herg said he has no plans to make more in the near future. Thanks.

-Mike

I realized that I did not update this thread after finding the culprit: it was an assembly error on Stern side, the entire shooter lane inserts were badly wired, all diodes were connected in such a way that they were absolutely useless (as if they were not even installed). So of course, lot of issues on the insert matrix

Looking for wpc89 insert and GI LED OCD boards, can’t seem to find them in stock. Anybody know when stock will be replemished? Anybody have a set they don’t plan to use?

GI OCD is in stock. LED OCD for WPC89 says end of June now.

Thanks for posting the update.

Is it end of june yet??? I need an led ocd now! Haha, my new tz has leds and the flickering is driving me nuts.

Do you have the patch rom installed in your game? It takes care of any flickering. All WPC games have a patch that can be added to the rom to help/prevent this.

Hi I have an LED OCD board in my LOTRs and it works great however i have just put one in my RBION (Ripley's) and for some reason the opto shrunken head magnet just go off randomly but quite often it does stop at times and the game runs ok but then starts going off again points go up with out the ball passing through the red opto.

What I've tried ...

1 - My mate has 1 in his RBION he has no issues.
2 - I've tried blocking all lights above & below the playfield around the opto
3 - I've reversed the opto leads
4 - Disconnected back to original stern board then plugged the LED OCD board back in again

Any Ideas please?

Take the board to your buddy's house and try it in his machine. Will rule out the board or the game right away. Always narrow your problems by ruling things out.

I’ve held off on installing LEDs in my machines for years because strobing really bothers me. Not ghosting, not flashing, but strobing—how even solidly-lit LEDs are actually flashing 10s of times per second. I have the same problem in buildings that use cheap LED unrectified lights and it’s noticeably worse in countries that use 50Hz mains vs 60Hz that I’m used to in the USA. On pinball machines, I find it hard to track the ball around the playfield on older machines that are running LEDs. It looks fine if I’m just staring at the machine, but any time my eyes are moving I can’t follow the ball and I get physically uncomfortable. I visited an arcade that had LED OCD on all their older machines. Not only did the inserts look great, but I had no problems tracking the ball.

I recently installed LEDs in the inserts on my Getaway, with LED OCD, and I love it! LED OCD has totally solved the issue I had with tracking the ball. I can still see the strobing sometimes if I’m darting my eyes around the playfield, but it’s rare that I notice it, and with the increased refresh rate of LED OCD, it doesn’t mess with my head anymore.

For anybody who is on the fence, it’s a great product, and it’s well worth the cost if strobing bothers you. I made a video about the issue I had, the install, and the results.

Converting a Pinball Machine to LEDs Using LED OCD

Just installed my second LEDOCD in my T2. Wired everything correctly and on power up I got a crackle and magic smoke from one of the 4051L transistors. Lights still were illuminated but I have no control over them and they’re not fading. Not sure why it did that, and wondering if I could replace just the transistor. I contacted Comet and waiting for a response. Anyone have any ideas what the hell happened?

FAA79F1E-1D1C-4414-9102-509A0D969B8F (resized).jpeg

Has anyone here successfully installed LEDOCD on a Williams system 7 machine (w/ modded cables using sys11 boards)?

Installed a LEDOCD on my Data East Crypt, and I’m getting feedback like a busy bee buzzing as the inserts light up. I installed an alternate power supply for the usual DE hum problem. I was wondering if I attached the two ground wires from the LEDOCD into my alternate power would that solve the buzz?

Maybe add a ground loop isolator the the sound system?

https://www.amazon.com/Isolator-Eliminate-Buzzing-Completely-Playing/dp/B019FC6ZQQ

I have one in a Black Knight

BK LED OCD (resized).jpg

Does anyone know the settings to duplicate the pinbits blackout AFM mod with a GI OCD board?

herg should be able to shed some light on this

For anyone using LED OCD in a Space Shuttle, you might notice that you lose the strobing effect of the rocket flames on the backbox translite and there is no profile file created for this machine. If you use the Pinbot profile, the rocket flames are lamp 57, (Pinbot "Blue 4"). To get the rocket lamp to strobe properly use the advanced settings and use Profile 1 "incandes" with the values shown in the photo for lamp 57. On my machine it only worked when one led was in the TOP bayonet socket only. The game strobes this lamp so fast the OCD board seemed to have difficulty with it even at zero delay with the default B2-B7 values. This combination works and looks great with one super brite led. For the rest of the lamps I set max brightness to 90% and changed delay to 4 with excellent results.

SmartSelectImage_2023-11-05-19-46-59 (resized).png

SmartSelectImage_2023-11-05-19-47-41 (resized).png

Can someone please confirm the speed at which the D9 led on the board is supposed to blink. Mine is blinking constantly about 1 per second (not sure if it’s blinking too fast). My inserts were working and now none of them are lighting up. Any help appreciated!! Thanks

One per second is normal operation. What are D10 and D11 doing?

D10 and D11 are both solid.

Have you reseated the connections on the LED OCD board and power driver board?

I posted this in its own thread a month ago, thought I might repost it here in case someone runs into the same prob I encountered.

Thanks for the information. I am going to check this when I get home as it is very similar to the issue I am having. Thanks!