Broke open my TZ for the first time in months yesterday - is there a recommendation for a place to put the GIOCD when that small board is on the left wall of the backbox? I thought I had seen something.. somewhere, but I can't find it now. I do have the 3d printed bracket, I just can't mount it anywhere

Hm, that's what I thought :/ and TZ has another board already occupying that space

I’ll have to take a photo. There’s a stock board for TZ that sits there. I forget what itis

Sample games had the 8-driver PCB (that handles a few of the flashers and the 9th switch column) mounted over on the left side of the backbox next to the MPU. Instead of up in the upper right corner where it is in that pic.

I knew you’d come through! Thanks man

Hey, I'm all about the easy questions.

I mounted mine just above the 8-Driver PCB. I left my interconnect board 'floating' - i.e. Not secured to anything.

A M4 screw is very close to a #8-32. If you can find nylon pan head M4 screws locally give those a try.

good idea. I may rework where the board is. My TZ is undergoing a thorough shop job, rewiring, etc right now.

If you're printing your own bracket, you could always adjust the size of the mounting holes so that it fits whatever screws you have. You may end up tweaking it anyway since I find that inside diameters of holes are highly dependent on the printer. If you use conductive screws, just make sure that the screw heads don't short to anything on the top side of the board.

For the breakout board, please make sure it can't short against something else. I zip tie mine to the harness where it comes up from the lower cabinet. If you have one of the covers, that would help, but the back side of those IDC connectors are exposed as well. I don't want anyone damaging something because that board flops into something it shouldn't.

Yes
666

Just joined the club. I have this JM with 5+ years old no-name LEDs in it that was giving me epileptic seizures. I'm going to put comets in and order a god damn USB cable so I can configure it properly (and no, I'm not doing colored GI).

However, at a glance it's a pretty upgrade!

Have you tried your TAF board in TZ?

Still no solution for TWD Premium?

I'm planning on installing both the LED OCD and the GI OCD into my TAF. One concern I have is the blinking GI lights in the backbox - I have a nice set of various blinkers from Comet. I don't really have the tools/skills to modify all of the blinker LEDs to add a capacitor to each. I believe that all the blinkers are on a single GI string (#3), so my thought was to see if there is some way to wire it so that string 3 bypasses the GI OCD (wiring it to be on all the time is fine if that's easiest.) Has anyone done something like this - if so, what's required? Does it wind up being harder than modifying the LEDs? Thanks!

The instructions for the GI board actually go over what you would do should you want to skip a string.

Could you point me to those instructions? I can't find them at http://ledocd.com/support.html

Do you have Ingo's board? It is the only one compatible with the GIOCD ,
And your
Results imply to
Me
Maybe you have an alternative board?

Here you go. I was specifically referring to the System 11 instructions since I just installed one of these in my Jokerz!, but it may vary for the other models:

http://www.ledocd.com/install_gi_ocd_choose.html

WPC89 is much more complicated of an install: http://www.ledocd.com/install_wpc89_gi_r4.html

I got everything installed today and when I do the GI test, the blinkers do blink when they are full brightness. So now I just need to update the settings so they are full brightness all the time for that string.

Thank you everyone!

Has anyone got a TZ, with both the Pinbits Gumball light installed and a GI OCD?

The Pinbits instructions suggest wiring the GI part of their mod to the GI string back-left, behind the Gumball.

From memory (as i can't currently test this) that's not the string that dims during the 'put it back' Powerball sequence? so the Pinbita Gumball GI light won't dim.

Has anyone wired their mod to a different (more relevant to the Powerball) GI string?

Can the mod handle dimming with a GI OCD?

I'm also curious to see if the red insert wiring might cause an issue with the OCD board too.

http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_gumball_lamp_boar.htm
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I have both. The GI string that blinks during the powerball callouts is "playfield right" (the coin door inserts are also on this string). I have the the gumball mod connected to the "playfield left" string per the instructions, and I can confirm that it dims quite nicely in the GI tests, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's a good idea.

That’s really useful, thanks.

Have you seen any issues with the mod's red Gumball LEDs when connected as per Pinbits guidance and using LED OCD?

Yes, GI OCD outputs DC. Use a meter to determine which wire is positive. It may be worth checking the LEDs for a bridge, in which case, the polarity wouldn't matter.

What component on the LEDOCD would go bad to cause a row of lights to lock on? I just spent a few weeks manhandling my PDB thinking a transistor was out, and it turns out it was the LEDOCD . I finally realised I hadn’t removed it for troubleshooting and the lamps suddenly worked correctly. The fuse looks intact.

That's most likely a transistor. What revision board is it? What game, and which lamps are stuck on?

Latest revision - Mini Rev 2. It's for TZ; the 8th row in the lamp matrix is locked on - the start button, Ball2, Lock, etc.

The latest is Rev3, and the change is to use larger transistors that are much more resilient. I have had zero reports of failed transistors on a Rev3 board.

Row 8 is controlled by Q16. If the board is out of the game, the easiest way to test that it truly is the transistor failed short is to use a DMM on continuity check. Use one lead on J11, pin 9. The other lead on GND.

On a Rev2 board, that is a Infineon IRLML6344. If you are not planning to replace it yourself, you can return it to me for repair. Send me an email.

Let me check again; perhaps I misread the board etching. Seems like I could
Replace this component; no different than a TIP102/107 repair.

yes, confirmed - it is a Rev 2 mini. I'll give it a shot to replace it - looks relatively simple. Thanks Herg!

On my DW im getting a little ghosting on the second chance insert and doctor #1 in the speaker panel.

Ramping up and down of the flashing inserts during attract mode is exceptional.

Its not terrible.

The LEDs are lightyears ahead of what they were without the ledocd. Its impressive!

What adjustments should i make?

Or should i just put in non ghosting bulbs in those locations?

Im already running the doctor who preset from the website.

I might have to get the giocd to enable gi dimming. But so far i dont miss it and basically have never used it.

The CSV files on the website do not contain any settings. They are only for mapping insert names to lamp locations so you can easily tell which lamp is which in the software.

Assuming you didn't make any changes to the settings manually, you will be running the defaults as defined in the PC software. Those defaults work well with normal LEDs, and you shouldn't need non-ghosting. Setting the brightness too high on a lamp can cause ghosting on the adjacent lamp column. Having incandescent bulbs can also sometimes cause ghosting within the same row or column.

If you don't have any incandescent bulbs in the lamp matrix (the start button is a common one that gets missed), try turning down the brightness. If that doesn't fix it, you likely have a problem that is not typical ghosting. A short or other problem can look like ghosting, but the LED OCD settings cannot do anything to correct those kinds of errors.

its a minor issue.

no incandescents in the entire game.
I like the brightness where its at.
no shorts, complete new high end restore. complete wiring and connector rebuild, ohmed and tested.

Ill look at the settings and tweak it a bit.

Thanks herg for the advice!

Rough flickering ramping-up while a lamp is fading in looks like ghosting, its not, lol.

On Doctor Who, setting profile 7 which is the default to 80 percent brightness and delay of 2 seems to be much better.

I tried lots of combinations including adjusting individual lamps.

But the default with a tiny adjustment is quite good.

Something about the 2smd bulbs and the over-all flash rate of the game makes a few of the lamps ramp up a little rough.
I tried delays of 4 or 5 or 6. A setting of 2 smoothed out the roughness.

At 85% brightness a couple lamps ghost slightly but lowering the over-all brightness to 78-80 fixes it pretty good.

So for now Im even more pleased with the result.

Crap, I did not realize setting brightness too high can cause ghosting! That is a MAJOR tip!

Yep.

I played with it for a couple hours.

Its kinda fun!

Probably more can be done on doctor who.

If i find some better settings ill post them.

But for now its really close.

Probably close enough lol.

If you find some better settings please post them.

One thing i found out is that the doctor numbers on the playfield are tied exactly to the doctors on the speaker panel. They are the same setting.

I couldn't find the ball save led in the mix but it wasn't a priority.

Hey everyone,
Another new member here. I just received my LED and GI OCD boards from comet for my TAF. They make the machine look soo good. Here's my only issue. I left just about everything default settings on the boards, but the only way I could get my blinkers from coin taker (all the lights are LEDs from coin taker) to actually come on and blink was to set the min and max values to signal 3 to 100 (I also set signal 2 the same to match the brightness in the backlight)/how bad is this to do?

https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-545-blinker-led

Because of how LED blinkers work, you won't be able to use them with the GIOCD. Setting brightness to 100 could burn your LEDs out prematurely. (Speaking from experience on my TZ. *ahem*) I would get incandescent 455s and plug them back in, personally. (Ended up what I did with my TZ..)

I ordered some capacitors, the ones they use to fix the comet pinball blinkers. I'll see if it also works in cointakers. If not, i'll either mod some comet blinkers or go back to original bulbs

Hello,

Can anyone with Ingo's clock board *and* a GI OCD board in their Twilight Zone help please?

I've finally got my TZ clock connected again after 2yrs (!) of restoring this machine and I'm running a GI dim 0-8 test but the stock white clock LEDs are not dimming as i was expecting them to.

I know there's a brightness dial on the clockboard, but haven't investigated this yet... it's the final v1.9 Clock board.

GI OCD board is set to dim the clock GI string, and all other playfield/backbox GI dims nicely with the Comet 2SMDs.

Thanks.