(Topic ID: 99875)

Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)


By Matt_Rasmussen

5 years ago



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  • 682 posts
  • 125 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by monkeyboypaul
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There are 682 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 14.
#651 37 days ago

Broke open my TZ for the first time in months yesterday - is there a recommendation for a place to put the GIOCD when that small board is on the left wall of the backbox? I thought I had seen something.. somewhere, but I can't find it now. I do have the 3d printed bracket, I just can't mount it anywhere

#652 37 days ago

My small board in my TAF is just cable tied to the loom running along the bottom of the Power Driver Board. My GI OCD board is mounted on the left hand side of the backbox, per the bracket instructions.

There’s pretty much nowhere to mount it other than that really.

#653 37 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

My small board in my TAF is just cable tied to the loom running along the bottom of the Power Driver Board. My GI OCD board is mounted on the left hand side of the backbox, per the bracket instructions.
There’s pretty much nowhere to mount it other than that really.

Hm, that's what I thought :/ and TZ has another board already occupying that space

#654 36 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Hm, that's what I thought :/ and TZ has another board already occupying that space

What have you got already occupying that space?

#655 36 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

What have you got already occupying that space?

I’ll have to take a photo. There’s a stock board for TZ that sits there. I forget what itis

#656 36 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’ll have to take a photo. There’s a stock board for TZ that sits there. I forget what itis

You've got me very curious now. I definitely don't have any board on the left hand side of my TZ backbox..

IMG_1996 (resized).jpeg

(bit of an old photo, but still)

#657 36 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’ll have to take a photo. There’s a stock board for TZ that sits there. I forget what itis

Quoted from Durzel:

You've got me very curious now. I definitely don't have any board on the left hand side of my TZ backbox..
[quoted image]
(bit of an old photo, but still)

Sample games had the 8-driver PCB (that handles a few of the flashers and the 9th switch column) mounted over on the left side of the backbox next to the MPU. Instead of up in the upper right corner where it is in that pic.

#658 36 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Sample games had the 8-driver PCB (that handles a few of the flashers and the 9th switch column) mounted over on the left side of the backbox next to the MPU. Instead of up in the upper right corner where it is in that pic.

I knew you’d come through! Thanks man

#659 36 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I knew you’d come through! Thanks man

Hey, I'm all about the easy questions.

#660 36 days ago

If you can’t remount that board I think you’re going to struggle to fit the GI OCD board. The cables that come with it are only long enough to reach the bottom of the boards in the usual places.

You might possibly be able to mount it on the bottom of the backbox on the left, covering over the hole that is normally used to secure the backbox down, but I would’ve thought it would foul the speaker.

#661 36 days ago

I mounted mine just above the 8-Driver PCB. I left my interconnect board 'floating' - i.e. Not secured to anything.

#662 36 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Hi,
Can anyone tell me what type of #8-32 1/4" nylon screws are needed to attach LED and GI OCD to their respective brackets? (seen

here  and
here)
You can't get these screws in the UK so I guess I'm going to have to try and import them from somewhere.
Looking at
this website  for example, I can see choices for PAN (head I assume?), FLT (?) and "Binding", whatever that means.
Can anyone point me in the direction of the correct screws please.. herg ?

A M4 screw is very close to a #8-32. If you can find nylon pan head M4 screws locally give those a try.

#663 36 days ago
Quoted from latenite04:

A M4 screw is very close to a #8-32. If you can find nylon pan head M4 screws locally give those a try.

Thanks. I managed to score some 8-32 “UNC” screws from a UK store, hopefully they’ll work. Had to buy 100 of them though lol.

Quoted from Coyote:

I mounted mine just above the 8-Driver PCB. I left my interconnect board 'floating' - i.e. Not secured to anything.

Mine is sortof floating too, if it’s the one I’m thinking of. I don’t think you can really install that one anywhere, but you can cable tie it to the loom if desired.

#664 35 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I mounted mine just above the 8-Driver PCB. I left my interconnect board 'floating' - i.e. Not secured to anything.

good idea. I may rework where the board is. My TZ is undergoing a thorough shop job, rewiring, etc right now.

#665 35 days ago

If you're printing your own bracket, you could always adjust the size of the mounting holes so that it fits whatever screws you have. You may end up tweaking it anyway since I find that inside diameters of holes are highly dependent on the printer. If you use conductive screws, just make sure that the screw heads don't short to anything on the top side of the board.

For the breakout board, please make sure it can't short against something else. I zip tie mine to the harness where it comes up from the lower cabinet. If you have one of the covers, that would help, but the back side of those IDC connectors are exposed as well. I don't want anyone damaging something because that board flops into something it shouldn't.

#666 35 days ago

Yes
666

1 week later
#667 27 days ago

Just joined the club. I have this JM with 5+ years old no-name LEDs in it that was giving me epileptic seizures. I'm going to put comets in and order a god damn USB cable so I can configure it properly (and no, I'm not doing colored GI).

However, at a glance it's a pretty upgrade!

#668 22 days ago

Can anyone share their GI OCD settings for Twilight Zone please?

I’ve just installed it in my TZ and am getting strange results.. I had a feeling that Zero Cross is not working on my power driver board (LEDs never strobed on an GI dim level even with all options at default) but I knew about that before fitting the board.

Anyway, here’s what I’m seeing:

- With the standard WPC89 settings (String 1 = Input 1, String 2 = Input 2, etc up to 5) my String 3 (Clock & Insert) doesn’t illuminate at all when set to the default Input 3.
- If I set String 3 to be controlled by another Input (e.g. 1 or 2) then it illuminates.
- All other strings seem to work with their corresponding inputs.
- If I use Manual Control in the GI OCD tool I can send different levels of dim properly to each string.
- When on Game Control, none of the strings dim at all - they are at full brightness 100% of the time.
- If I go into the GI test and play with the different brightness levels for different strings nothing changes at all, the game doesn’t even turn off the strings not currently selected (e.g. “Playfield Left” should only illuminate String 1, but everything is on)

Clearly something not right here and am wondering whether it’s an issue with my GI OCD board or the Power Driver Board. Any ideas herg ?

Thanks in advance!

#669 22 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Can anyone share their GI OCD settings for Twilight Zone please?
I’ve just installed it in my TZ and am getting strange results.. I had a feeling that Zero Cross is not working on my power driver board (LEDs never strobed on an GI dim level even with all options at default) but I knew about that before fitting the board.
Anyway, here’s what I’m seeing:
- With the standard WPC89 settings (String 1 = Input 1, String 2 = Input 2, etc up to 5) my String 3 (Clock & Insert) doesn’t illuminate at all when set to the default Input 3.
- If I set String 3 to be controlled by another Input (e.g. 1 or 2) then it illuminates.
- All other strings seem to work with their corresponding inputs.
- If I use Manual Control in the GI OCD tool I can send different levels of dim properly to each string.
- When on Game Control, none of the strings dim at all - they are at full brightness 100% of the time.
- If I go into the GI test and play with the different brightness levels for different strings nothing changes at all, the game doesn’t even turn off the strings not currently selected (e.g. “Playfield Left” should only illuminate String 1, but everything is on)
Clearly something not right here and am wondering whether it’s an issue with my GI OCD board or the Power Driver Board. Any ideas herg ?
Thanks in advance!

Have you tried your TAF board in TZ?

#670 22 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Have you tried your TAF board in TZ?

The GI OCD board? Or the PDB?

I could do that I guess, though I have a feeling since Manual Control dims the different strings properly and Game Control doesn’t the signal to dim isn’t getting from the game to the GI OCD board.

Not knowing the signal paths of GI OCD etc it’s not really easy to diagnose. I could switch over my GI OCD board from my TAF I suppose.

I can’t explain the String 3/Input 3 not working though, when changing the input to something else does.

#671 22 days ago

Still no solution for TWD Premium?

#672 16 days ago

I'm planning on installing both the LED OCD and the GI OCD into my TAF. One concern I have is the blinking GI lights in the backbox - I have a nice set of various blinkers from Comet. I don't really have the tools/skills to modify all of the blinker LEDs to add a capacitor to each. I believe that all the blinkers are on a single GI string (#3), so my thought was to see if there is some way to wire it so that string 3 bypasses the GI OCD (wiring it to be on all the time is fine if that's easiest.) Has anyone done something like this - if so, what's required? Does it wind up being harder than modifying the LEDs? Thanks!

#673 16 days ago
Quoted from webdeck:

I'm planning on installing both the LED OCD and the GI OCD into my TAF. One concern I have is the blinking GI lights in the backbox - I have a nice set of various blinkers from Comet. I don't really have the tools/skills to modify all of the blinker LEDs to add a capacitor to each. I believe that all the blinkers are on a single GI string (#3), so my thought was to see if there is some way to wire it so that string 3 bypasses the GI OCD (wiring it to be on all the time is fine if that's easiest.) Has anyone done something like this - if so, what's required? Does it wind up being harder than modifying the LEDs? Thanks!

The instructions for the GI board actually go over what you would do should you want to skip a string.

#674 16 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

The instructions for the GI board actually go over what you would do should you want to skip a string.

Could you point me to those instructions? I can't find them at http://ledocd.com/support.html

#675 16 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Can anyone share their GI OCD settings for Twilight Zone please?
I’ve just installed it in my TZ and am getting strange results.. I had a feeling that Zero Cross is not working on my power driver board (LEDs never strobed on an GI dim level even with all options at default) but I knew about that before fitting the board.
Anyway, here’s what I’m seeing:
- With the standard WPC89 settings (String 1 = Input 1, String 2 = Input 2, etc up to 5) my String 3 (Clock & Insert) doesn’t illuminate at all when set to the default Input 3.
- If I set String 3 to be controlled by another Input (e.g. 1 or 2) then it illuminates.
- All other strings seem to work with their corresponding inputs.
- If I use Manual Control in the GI OCD tool I can send different levels of dim properly to each string.
- When on Game Control, none of the strings dim at all - they are at full brightness 100% of the time.
- If I go into the GI test and play with the different brightness levels for different strings nothing changes at all, the game doesn’t even turn off the strings not currently selected (e.g. “Playfield Left” should only illuminate String 1, but everything is on)
Clearly something not right here and am wondering whether it’s an issue with my GI OCD board or the Power Driver Board. Any ideas herg ?
Thanks in advance!

Do you have Ingo's board? It is the only one compatible with the GIOCD ,
And your
Results imply to
Me
Maybe you have an alternative board?

#676 16 days ago
Quoted from webdeck:

Could you point me to those instructions? I can't find them at http://ledocd.com/support.html

Here you go. I was specifically referring to the System 11 instructions since I just installed one of these in my Jokerz!, but it may vary for the other models:

http://www.ledocd.com/install_gi_ocd_choose.html

#677 16 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Here you go. I was specifically referring to the System 11 instructions since I just installed one of these in my Jokerz!, but it may vary for the other models:
http://www.ledocd.com/install_gi_ocd_choose.html

WPC89 is much more complicated of an install: http://www.ledocd.com/install_wpc89_gi_r4.html

#678 16 days ago
Quoted from webdeck:

I'm planning on installing both the LED OCD and the GI OCD into my TAF. One concern I have is the blinking GI lights in the backbox - I have a nice set of various blinkers from Comet. I don't really have the tools/skills to modify all of the blinker LEDs to add a capacitor to each. I believe that all the blinkers are on a single GI string (#3), so my thought was to see if there is some way to wire it so that string 3 bypasses the GI OCD (wiring it to be on all the time is fine if that's easiest.) Has anyone done something like this - if so, what's required? Does it wind up being harder than modifying the LEDs? Thanks!

The software allows you to set a string to be always on, so you’re all set.

I have LED and GI OCD in my TAF with Comet slow and fast blinking bulbs and have just left it on the standard settings, it appears to work fine.

#679 12 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

The software allows you to set a string to be always on, so you’re all set.
I have LED and GI OCD in my TAF with Comet slow and fast blinking bulbs and have just left it on the standard settings, it appears to work fine.

I got everything installed today and when I do the GI test, the blinkers do blink when they are full brightness. So now I just need to update the settings so they are full brightness all the time for that string.

Thank you everyone!

#680 9 days ago

Has anyone got a TZ, with both the Pinbits Gumball light installed and a GI OCD?

The Pinbits instructions suggest wiring the GI part of their mod to the GI string back-left, behind the Gumball.

From memory (as i can't currently test this) that's not the string that dims during the 'put it back' Powerball sequence? so the Pinbita Gumball GI light won't dim.

Has anyone wired their mod to a different (more relevant to the Powerball) GI string?

Can the mod handle dimming with a GI OCD?

I'm also curious to see if the red insert wiring might cause an issue with the OCD board too.

http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_gumball_lamp_boar.htm
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#681 8 days ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Has anyone got a TZ, with both the Pinbits Gumball light installed and a GI OCD?
The Pinbits instructions suggest wiring the GI part of their mod to the GI string back-left, behind the Gumball.
From memory (as i can't currently test this) that's not the string that dims during the 'put i back' Powerball sequence? so the Gumball GI light don't dim.
Has anyone wired their mod to a different (more relevant to the Powerball) GI string?
Can the mod handle dimming with a GI OCD?
I'm also curious to see if the red insert wiring might cause an issue with the OCD board too.
http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_gumball_lamp_boar.htm[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have both. The GI string that blinks during the powerball callouts is "playfield right" (the coin door inserts are also on this string). I have the the gumball mod connected to the "playfield left" string per the instructions, and I can confirm that it dims quite nicely in the GI tests, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's a good idea.

#682 8 days ago
Quoted from kevinleedrum:

I have both. The GI string that blinks during the powerball callouts is "playfield right" (the coin door inserts are also on this string). I have the the gumball mod connected to the "playfield left" string per the instructions, and I can confirm that it dims quite nicely in the GI tests, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's a good idea.

That’s really useful, thanks.

Have you seen any issues with the mod's red Gumball LEDs when connected as per Pinbits guidance and using LED OCD?

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