(Topic ID: 99875)

Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)


By Matt_Rasmussen

4 years ago



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  • 638 posts
  • 117 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 25 days ago by MMP
  • Topic is favorited by 102 Pinsiders

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There are 638 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 13.
#601 64 days ago

Thanks. Set them all to 40. I couldn't really see any brightness difference between 35 and 40.

Couldn't explain how they all ended up on 100, but it's sorted now. Haven't been playing with Advanced at all, the default settings seem to be near perfect (great job herg)

Found out there is an unused string in TAF, so guessing that's 4.

Thanks for your help.

#602 64 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

2) blinker bulbs don’t work real well with GIOCD, although on the site there is a specific FAQ dealing with this and a specific supplier named. You may ask Herg if you can just put incandescents (although don’t do it unless he confirms so you don’t blow the board!

You can, I do in my TZ. But you wanna keep the number of incandescents as low as possible, of course.

#603 63 days ago
Quoted from herg:

Blinker bulbs are hit and miss. I have a couple in my SS that work fine. Other in my TZ do not. I use incandescent blinkers in it because of this.
I believe is has to do with how the blinkers are implemented, and if they are without power for long enough they reset their sequence. That doesn't really explain why they wouldn't work at 100%, though. Is it a steady 100, or a ramp with a max of 100?
I have recently made an update to the firmware that increases the pulse rate to 1kHz. Believe it or not, I got a message from a guy that could see strobing at 250 Hz! Anyway, I'm theorizing this increased rate might also help blinker LEDs. I have some on order that I'm going to test. The only bayonet one I have works, but I want to fill all 6 spots in TZ.

This is from a long time ago but.. is there any benefit to setting the pulse rate to 1kHz? I think mine was on 500hz, which I presume is the default (also set to 50hz as I'm in the UK). I see "shimmering" in my GI and inserts if I try and set the brightness to much below 10. They are standard Comet 2SMD bulbs (not non-ghosting ones). If the pulse rate isn't likely to make any difference to that, I'll just leave it as it is and carry on leaving it starting on 10.

#604 63 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

This is from a long time ago but.. is there any benefit to setting the pulse rate to 1kHz? I think mine was on 500hz, which I presume is the default (also set to 50hz as I'm in the UK). I see "shimmering" in my GI and inserts if I try and set the brightness to much below 10. They are standard Comet 2SMD bulbs (not non-ghosting ones). If the pulse rate isn't likely to make any difference to that, I'll just leave it as it is and carry on leaving it starting on 10.

Some bulbs just don’t go down that low, but you should try the higher refresh rate, the shimmering may go away, that’s what that setting is for.

#605 63 days ago

Thanks.

I'm starting to wonder whether it's actually worth me routing two USB cables through the front of the machine (the two I received are not long enough to reach the coin door comfortably) given how much I'm already tweaking with it lol.

#606 63 days ago

rdoyle1978 has some really good answers here. Some bulbs don't like going to that low of a duty cycle. Trying the higher refresh rate and making your own determination is a good idea. It may actually make the shimmering worse, depending on the cause, though. If you're seeing bulbs that sometimes don't light at a narrow pulse width, setting it to 1kHz refresh will make that pulse even more narrow. If you're seeing strobing, setting it to a higher refresh rate should help.

#607 63 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks.
I'm starting to wonder whether it's actually worth me routing two USB cables through the front of the machine (the two I received are not long enough to reach the coin door comfortably) given how much I'm already tweaking with it lol.

That’s what I started doing - I don’t tweak them much any longer but it really helped. I think you might be able to use an unpowered USB hub and just connect the 1 cable

#608 63 days ago
Quoted from herg:

rdoyle1978 has some really good answers here. Some bulbs don't like going to that low of a duty cycle. Trying the higher refresh rate and making your own determination is a good idea. It may actually make the shimmering worse, depending on the cause, though. If you're seeing bulbs that sometimes don't light at a narrow pulse width, setting it to 1kHz refresh will make that pulse even more narrow. If you're seeing strobing, setting it to a higher refresh rate should help.

Hey I’m paying attention!

#609 60 days ago

I was a bit worried to use only cable tie for GI OCD mini PCB, so I've created a back panel, with cable tie connection, in order to isolate the back pins from Power Board.
herg, if you think this makes sense, I can send you the stl file.

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#610 60 days ago

How cool is that

Is there any reason B7 and B8 would be the same brightness in GI test (pin menu, not anything to do with GI OCD software)?

GI fades correctly from B1-6, but B7 always appears to be the same brightness as B8. I've even tried setting a big difference between B7 and B8 - e.g B7 is 10, B8 is 35 to no avail.

#611 60 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Is there any reason B7 and B8 would be the same brightness in GI test

I can't say for certain why, but there is absolutely no difference in output between B7 and B8 from the games. As a result, I can't detect which one it's set to.

#612 60 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

I was a bit worried to use only cable tie for GI OCD mini PCB, so I've created a back panel, with cable tie connection, in order to isolate the back pins from Power Board.
herg, if you think this makes sense, I can send you the stl file.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Brilliant! I had the same concerns. I'd buy 6-8 of them if possible.
This Pinball hobby is causing me to consider a 3d printer purchase. Shapeways is convenient but quite expensive.

#613 60 days ago
Quoted from herg:

I can't say for certain why, but there is absolutely no difference in output between B7 and B8 from the games. As a result, I can't detect which one it's set to.

Ah well. I won't notice it really. Just glad my game isn't faulty! Thanks for the fast reply (again)

#614 54 days ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Brilliant! I had the same concerns. I'd buy 6-8 of them if possible.
This Pinball hobby is causing me to consider a 3d printer purchase. Shapeways is convenient but quite expensive.

Yes, it's possible. Any suggestion about fair price?

#615 54 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

herg, if you think this makes sense, I can send you the stl file

davi, I thought this was a good idea, so I ran with it a bit. I thought, why not make it a bit taller, so it protects the sides as well. Plus, I made it print on it's end so I can fit more on the build plate at once. I'm going to start shipping these with GI OCD, at least for a while to see what people think.

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#616 54 days ago

herg will there be any way for us folk in the UK to buy one? I'd definitely be keen to protect mine.

#617 54 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

herg will there be any way for us folk in the UK to buy one? I'd definitely be keen to protect mine.

I'll post the stl file, but I won't be shipping them to the UK. Sorry.

#618 54 days ago

No probs, thanks anyway.

#619 54 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'd definitely be keen to protect mine.

Herg, will you post them on your site for purchase?

#620 54 days ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Herg, will you post them on your site for purchase?

Hmmm... It would be pretty crappy of me to make you buy it when others will be getting them included. Maybe I'll put them up there free and you just pay shipping.

#621 54 days ago

Getting a bit ahead of myself here but how would this stay attached? Cable tie through the PCB holes as it is now? (guess you could use two instead of one looping over/under the edge connector - which isn't great) or nylon screws per your LED & GI board brackets?

Would it be feasible to have a small lip on the other side that would keep the PCB in place as it would only be held down on one side?

#622 54 days ago

It's a pretty tight fit as is, but the idea is that you'd still tie it down with a zip tie. In this case the tie goes through both the board and protector.

#623 54 days ago
Quoted from herg:

Hmmm... It would be pretty crappy of me to make you buy it when others will be getting them included. Maybe I'll put them up there free and you just pay shipping.

I wouldn't think of it that way. Lots of times products get things added to them at no additional cost. I was given some LED OCD's as a gift (that I have yet to install) and I wouldn't feel bad if you did this. Though I also don't have any desire to get one either. I'm sure I can figure out something out for mounting the board.

#624 54 days ago

I’d really like to do this. Would you guys be willing to send the .stl, or I’d even pay for the shipping. Not only does this protect from any potential shorts, but it has a great “finished” look which helps add to the already great product.

#625 54 days ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I wouldn't think of it that way. Lots of times products get things added to them at no additional cost. I was given some LED OCD's as a give (that I have yet to install) and I wouldn't feel bad if you did this. Though I also don't have any desire to get one either. I'm sure I can figure out something out for mounting the board.

Agreed. No sense selling something at a loss by only charging for shipping. Products evolve over time, and all of us buying them knew what we're getting (and not getting) when we buy them. I would definitely want one of these but I wouldn't expect to get one at lower than cost price a year after I bought GI OCD.

I'd rather you (like anyone) turn a profit if it makes this line of work sustainable for you. Taking a loss on each one shipped by only charging for shipping doesn't help that. Posting the STL online more than covers you for past customers I think.

#628 53 days ago
Quoted from herg:

davi, I thought this was a good idea, so I ran with it a bit. I thought, why not make it a bit taller, so it protects the sides as well. Plus, I made it print on it's end so I can fit more on the build plate at once. I'm going to start shipping these with GI OCD, at least for a while to see what people think.[quoted image]

Your solution is also nice.

#629 47 days ago

Hello. I just purchased my first LED-OCD board. I plan to install it in my LOTR today for the insert lighting. My insert lighting is roughly about 85% LED and 15% incandescent. Basically I have currently kept incandescent bulbs for the collection of all the fellowship characters, and the modes around the ring magnet at the top. All the other inserts are LED. From what I have been reading, I am getting the impression that I would blow the fuse because of the amount of incandescent lighting I still have in some of these inserts. Is that true? Also under my Mode Start insert I have a color changing LED. Will there be any issue with how the board handles that type of LED?

#630 47 days ago
Quoted from mordroc:

Hello. I just purchased my first LED-OCD board. I plan to install it in my LOTR today for the insert lighting. My insert lighting is roughly about 85% LED and 15% incandescent. Basically I have currently kept incandescent bulbs for the collection of all the fellowship characters, and the modes around the ring magnet at the top. All the other inserts are LED. From what I have been reading, I am getting the impression that I would blow the fuse because of the amount of incandescent lighting I still have in some of these inserts. Is that true? Also under my Mode Start insert I have a color changing LED. Will there be any issue with how the board handles that type of LED?

Herg should confim, but that sounds like a lot of incandescents to me. You may want to remove some and replace with LED then slowly re-add until you blow the fuse.

#631 47 days ago
Quoted from mordroc:

Hello. I just purchased my first LED-OCD board. I plan to install it in my LOTR today for the insert lighting. My insert lighting is roughly about 85% LED and 15% incandescent. Basically I have currently kept incandescent bulbs for the collection of all the fellowship characters, and the modes around the ring magnet at the top. All the other inserts are LED. From what I have been reading, I am getting the impression that I would blow the fuse because of the amount of incandescent lighting I still have in some of these inserts. Is that true? Also under my Mode Start insert I have a color changing LED. Will there be any issue with how the board handles that type of LED?

That actually should be OK. Stern LED OCD can handle more incandescent than WPC because it has bigger transistors. When I owned LOTR, I did basically the same. All the characters and other clear inserts, I kept incandescent.

The color changer is a bit more difficult to predict. Some work, some get stuck on one color, and others don't light at all. My best suggestion there is to try it and see.

#632 47 days ago

Thank you. Appreciate the advice. That gives me the confidence to begin with what I currently have.

#633 47 days ago

In LOTR when you are in a mode and it says to shoot the flashing shots (Usually the Red Triangle inserts), the way they pulse/flash it's almost hard to tell they are flashing. I've watched some game videos and even with the incandescent bulbs it's not super obvious that they are "flashing."

Does anyone have any tips/settings for LED OCD to help see the flashing on the red triangle inserts better?

#634 46 days ago

Installation was very easy. Works great on the default settings. Color changing LED's still work too. Soon I will try and run the software just to see how it works for tweaking. A great product and it's amazing how it took my 8 year old LED's that have always flickered on and off in my LOTR, and instead made them fade in and out like normal incandescent bulbs.

3 weeks later
#635 25 days ago

I'm attempting to install my first LED OCD in TZ, but I am confused right off the bat on the instructions. Asking me to remove connectors from either J136 (only 3 pins) or J137 (8 pins) and connect the 4-pin ground connector there.

From looking around LED OCD will only work when GI dimming is enabled? Is this true?

#636 25 days ago

LED OCD has got nothing to do with GI so wouldn't be affected by that setting.

Not in front of my machine (TAF, but it's still WPC89) but the ground connection for LED OCD goes to the top right of the machine. It only goes there I think?

#637 25 days ago

you are correct... I was looking at the 95 instructions. Thanks, I will give it another try.

#638 25 days ago

Success, thank you Durzel for the fast response.

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