Hello,
Just getting a TAF back together after a year apart. LED OCD worked for several years. TAF controlled game lights all work without OCD but when OCD is put back following instructions no lights come on or a few do but do not cycle. Of course the laptop is now out of date and need to install software again when there is time. So likely all setting lost. Not sure why board no longer works and lost its settings?

It is unlikely that it lost it's settings while just sitting. They are written into the data EEPROM of the PIC, and that is pretty reliable.

More likely is that one of the game outputs (LED OCD inputs) is not working, so the board is not synchrized with the game. What are the LEDs on the OCD board doing?

If anyone's curious, this is what TWD Pro looks like with LED OCD:

Personally, i think it's much better!

Pretty sure delay is set to 1 in this example.

Just sold MET Pro, and had to take this OCD board out before it went. The stock lighting is so harsh, it hurts... I'm buying a MET Prem instead and it'll certainly take some getting used to. I'd happily pay for OCD'ing a Premium...

A GI OCD purchased recently will have the latest firmware, which allows you to choose 50Hz from within the configuration GUI.

You won't damage it. It would only be slightly out of sync, and you may see a little bit of flicker. Also, the new firmware has been shipping for about 3 years now, so you should have it.

herg has there been any work/interest in an LED OCD solution for classic Stern/Bally games?

I'm presuming this is a hard no, but does LED OCD work with the surface mounted inserts on AC/DC premium vault? They are pretty jarringly bright and choppy looking. I wish Stern would offer a software tweak to enable fading.

A bit of work has been done, but I wouldn't expect anything soon. I wrote some firmware for a guy who was working on a replacement driver board. He did a bit of testing, but it wasn't working quite right, and the project has since stalled.

No, it doesn't. They're controlled completely differently, and I don't have any games to test on. I really don't have much motivation, either, since I don't plan to buy any Stern SAM with serial controlled lighting.

Sorry to tee up a goofy question but I failed to find an answer. I have the LEDOCD board on several games and Love it!!! Granted I simply installed it and it worked so the custom program extras I leave to the smarter then I crowd. Recently I picked up a beautiful TOTAN that was LED upgraded and I added the LEDOCD as the flicker (lightening look) was to much. My issue..... All machine lights are now perfect Except the previous owner added LED post rings and LED pop cap rings which still seem to flicker like a lightening storm. Is this something I could possibly tune using the software or just tear out all the LED rings they added? The lights do look great but really take away from the effect as I fear a seizure coming on. lol Appreciate any guidance. Thanks

The software allows direct 'tuning' of each LED in the switch matrix. It's awesome.

Has there been any attempts at getting an GI OCD to work with CFTBL's chase light board? I tried to make a Y harness to send power to the pins on the driver board that feed the chase light board so I can separate the chase light wiring from the GI ocd board but this results in the GI OCD board blowing its fuse. I assume its seeing the load from the driver board. Maybe using diodes to block reverse current draw would work, and if so what diode would be the best choice?

Where did they connect them? I would assume GI. If so, you may be able to turn off GI dimming, or you could add a GI OCD.

That’s a shame, because I don’t think anyone else is even looking at this as a problem to solve, but I totally get your position.

I recently sold my OCD’d MET Pro to get a Premium (I like the game a lot!) so it will be hard to adjust to blinkyland all over again... kept the ocd board, but now it has no home

It was smooth as butter in the Pro.

If you make the splitter right, it should work. I know people have successfully done it for STTNG, and I think I remember others being successful with CFTBL.

Thanks! I'll have to recheck my work and see if anyone posted their STTNG version to compare to.

Edit: just figured it out, I used the ground connection for the power driver board as outlined not to do in this post

It depends on whether your bulbs are "AC", meaning they have a bridge in them. If so, the direction won't matter.

Truly can't overstate how cool this product is, and how it works best with standard LEDS (not the non-ghosting types). I always load the recommended settings into my games, then sit w a computer w then game on and start to tweak. Highly recommend taking the time to install the software, and play with the settings on this amazing device.

Absolutely a game changer w some of the new led's out there now...

Send Herg a pm or email, he's super helpful with his products.

They are the same board and circuitry. However, the default settings are different, and you’ll want to use the proper settings for your game. If you have WPC95 settings in a WPC89 game, you will be missing 2/5 of the lighting effects.

WPC95 games have 2 GI strings which are basically on all the time, which is also set this way in the LEDOCD default board as you ordered it. You can change it easily, and there are instructions on the site for this.

Also.. TZ is one of the main games to benefit from GIOCD. Are you sure you’re doing it right? IMO it is a must-have for TZ. Perhaps you used the WPC95 settings in your TZ?

I’m curious about some of the settings you’ve changed - I’ve always found the default settings to be pretty great, and I admit I’m not observant enough to notice big differences when I change individual settings. The fade time, yes, but what else might one change?

One other thing - when you’re installing, you do need to connect to different jumpers, so make sure you fine the WPC89 instructions for your TAF

Got it - that sucks the TZ won’t do proper dimming - but it works great in TAF as well

That was going to be my suggestion, but you've already ruled that out. It very well could be the zero crossing signal. Because of the way GI OCD reads this signal directly off the ribbon between the CPU and power driver, it *might* work, even if the power driver has an issue. It's safer to make sure the game is working before installing, though.

The board you have is an older design, and the current limit on it is lower due to the small transistors. I shipped them with 1.5A fuses, anything over 32V is fine. Fuse information is here:
http://ledocd.com/fuselist.html

1.5A can be borderline depending on the bulbs (2SMD will pull a bit more current). Also on the page listed above, "Note: Early boards were shipped with 1A. If this does not blow unexpectedly, it will better protect your LED OCD from damage in the case of a short. It is, however, safe to increase to 2.5A if you are having trouble with it blowing in normal operation." So, don't just go increasing the fuse for no reason, but you can increase (I suggest taking baby steps) if it is blowing and you're certain there is not a legitimate problem with the game causing it.

I had an OCD board blow in a Shadow once, sounds like a similar action with all bulbs lighting then stopping, but that was down to me pushing it a bit too hard on the board and shorting the back of it against the metal plate. Needed a new transistor, then 100% good again. Also went in AFM, but again that was down to me shorting 2 inserts (changing bulbs with power on, 2 touched, my own fault). point is you may have a short on your lamp matrix - did you put all the bulbs & holders back securely? None hanging down still? I only have the older rev4 design with transistors and a break out board (don’t ask me how rev4 is older!)

Also unplug those mods if you can do so easily.

It has bigger transistors and as a result, it can survive stuff like pushing down and shorting or shorted lamp sockets a bit more often. It's still not foolproof, though. There are no other differences in operation.

It depends on how these are powered. If they're hanging off the lamp matrix, they will certainly put more strain on the OCD transistors. If they're on GI, they're probably fine, and if they're powered by a separate source, even better.

Yes, a 2A would blow quicker in the case of a "real" short, possibily saving the board. Still no guarantees, though.

When I moved to the smaller LED OCD Mini, the revision numbers started over. Looking back at it, it probably is a bit confusing.

It's no more of a "problem" than a normal game mode. Only one column is on at any time, so 8 lamp locations max. If you have an extra bulb, like the scoop lights, you now have 9 bulbs, rather than 8.

If you don't have extra stuff hanging off the GI, it should be fine. About 13 lamps per string is normal. Those bulbs run about 100 mA, if I remember correctly. That's about 1.3A, and the stock fuses are 2A per string.

Just wanted to bump this thread. I am going down to readjust my Monster Bash GIOCD which, though I’ve had it installed for 6 months or more, I never noticed that it wasn’t deactivating the back box when the other GI strings were off. (Never tested it ? I guess?)

I also want to thank Herg for 2 outstanding boards that are must-have add-ons for these games, and for the ridiculous customer support. I’m sure I’ll be ordering another one soon..

Stock WPC95 games do not have the ability to turn off strings 4 and 5, which are typically used for the backbox. The defaults settings of GI OCD handle this by setting those strings to "Always On", and it will operate like the stock game did. You can use the software to use the control input from a different string to control 4 and 5.

Exactly what I did! And it allowed me to remove the Pinbits Blackout Mod entirely. Worked like a charm

Fade time and intensity, mainly. tweaking those can be an endless process (hence the"OCD" part), but quite entertaining. I usually have to step away from the game a bit after changing things to allow my eyes to "reset".

Most of the game settings are very good, and know alot of people just plug it in out of the box and go...I just like to tinker..cut my teeth w Herg's board on my SM, and recently changed all my inserts to a different LED type (comet's 4x SMD), so ended up tweaking again. Staggering when it's dialed in....

Just LEDs being LEDs. One of the challenges of explaining this mod is you ACTUALLY DO need to see it in person, because the cameras can’t capture the difference

Yep, I can’t really see strobing either, but I DO see flicker when the GI dims, so it’s GIOCD all day long. And I like both mods because of the nicer fading. IMO it is better than the circuitry I see in the remakes (although I dont think there’s any way to really measure that objectively)

I’m one of those who have troubles with the blink. It’s a part of why I don’t play much on location. Herg’s boards literally are the difference between me enjoying a game and walking away from it.

Modern games with LED as the initial design thankfully are high refresh rate and quite enjoyable.

Yup, same here. I tried to play a newer Stern in an darkened arcade that someone had LEDed out, without an OCD. When the game flashed the entire playfield on off quickly, I got sick to my stomach. Had to walk away.

1) Dial the top level down to 40; that’s is strange it was set higher

as a sidebar, in general don’t check the “advanced” box either, as the boards calculate appropriate ramp values in between your lowest and highest

2) blinker bulbs don’t work real well with GIOCD, although on the site there is a specific FAQ dealing with this and a specific supplier named. You may ask Herg if you can just put incandescents (although don’t do it unless he confirms so you don’t blow the board!)

3) I forget what the strings are - you should be able to see in the menu. Go into test mode and in the GI tests each string is named.