Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)

(Topic ID: 99875)

Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)


By Matt_Rasmussen

4 years ago



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#551 3 months ago

Hello,
Just getting a TAF back together after a year apart. LED OCD worked for several years. TAF controlled game lights all work without OCD but when OCD is put back following instructions no lights come on or a few do but do not cycle. Of course the laptop is now out of date and need to install software again when there is time. So likely all setting lost. Not sure why board no longer works and lost its settings?

#552 3 months ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Hello,
Just getting a TAF back together after a year apart. LED OCD worked for several years. TAF controlled game lights all work without OCD but when OCD is put back following instructions no lights come on or a few do but do not cycle. Of course the laptop is now out of date and need to install software again when there is time. So likely all setting lost. Not sure why board no longer works and lost its settings?

It is unlikely that it lost it's settings while just sitting. They are written into the data EEPROM of the PIC, and that is pretty reliable.

More likely is that one of the game outputs (LED OCD inputs) is not working, so the board is not synchrized with the game. What are the LEDs on the OCD board doing?

1 week later
#553 88 days ago

If anyone's curious, this is what TWD Pro looks like with LED OCD:

Personally, i think it's much better!

Pretty sure delay is set to 1 in this example.

Just sold MET Pro, and had to take this OCD board out before it went. The stock lighting is so harsh, it hurts... I'm buying a MET Prem instead and it'll certainly take some getting used to. I'd happily pay for OCD'ing a Premium...

#554 88 days ago

Is there anything I need to be aware of fitting a GI OCD to my TAF in the UK? I'm sure I read an old post about how it didn't work or needed some specific firmware to run on 220v/50hz here in the UK? I don't know if that was still the case or if I needed to know anything else?

I bought both boards direct from the US at the start of the year so I presume they are the latest versions but never got around to fitting them to my TZ at the time (it turned out to have GI dimming issues).

#555 88 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Is there anything I need to be aware of fitting a GI OCD to my TAF in the UK? I'm sure I read an old post about how it didn't work or needed some specific firmware to run on 220v/50hz here in the UK? I don't know if that was still the case or if I needed to know anything else?
I bought both boards direct from the US at the start of the year so I presume they are the latest versions but never got around to fitting them to my TZ at the time (it turned out to have GI dimming issues).

A GI OCD purchased recently will have the latest firmware, which allows you to choose 50Hz from within the configuration GUI.

#556 88 days ago
Quoted from herg:

A GI OCD purchased recently will have the latest firmware, which allows you to choose 50Hz from within the configuration GUI.

Thanks. Assuming I might not have that firmware already - how would I update it without damaging it by connecting it up?

#557 88 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Thanks. Assuming I might not have that firmware already - how would I update it without damaging it by connecting it up?

You won't damage it. It would only be slightly out of sync, and you may see a little bit of flicker. Also, the new firmware has been shipping for about 3 years now, so you should have it.

#558 87 days ago

herg has there been any work/interest in an LED OCD solution for classic Stern/Bally games?

#559 87 days ago

I'm presuming this is a hard no, but does LED OCD work with the surface mounted inserts on AC/DC premium vault? They are pretty jarringly bright and choppy looking. I wish Stern would offer a software tweak to enable fading.

#560 86 days ago
Quoted from Fytr:

herg has there been any work/interest in an LED OCD solution for classic Stern/Bally games?

A bit of work has been done, but I wouldn't expect anything soon. I wrote some firmware for a guy who was working on a replacement driver board. He did a bit of testing, but it wasn't working quite right, and the project has since stalled.

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

I'm presuming this is a hard no, but does LED OCD work with the surface mounted inserts on AC/DC premium vault? They are pretty jarringly bright and choppy looking. I wish Stern would offer a software tweak to enable fading.

No, it doesn't. They're controlled completely differently, and I don't have any games to test on. I really don't have much motivation, either, since I don't plan to buy any Stern SAM with serial controlled lighting.

#561 86 days ago

Sorry to tee up a goofy question but I failed to find an answer. I have the LEDOCD board on several games and Love it!!! Granted I simply installed it and it worked so the custom program extras I leave to the smarter then I crowd. Recently I picked up a beautiful TOTAN that was LED upgraded and I added the LEDOCD as the flicker (lightening look) was to much. My issue..... All machine lights are now perfect Except the previous owner added LED post rings and LED pop cap rings which still seem to flicker like a lightening storm. Is this something I could possibly tune using the software or just tear out all the LED rings they added? The lights do look great but really take away from the effect as I fear a seizure coming on. lol Appreciate any guidance. Thanks

#562 86 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

LED post rings and LED pop cap rings which still seem to flicker like a lightening storm. Is this something I could possibly tune using the software or just tear out all the LED rings they added?

The software allows direct 'tuning' of each LED in the switch matrix. It's awesome.

#563 86 days ago

Has there been any attempts at getting an GI OCD to work with CFTBL's chase light board? I tried to make a Y harness to send power to the pins on the driver board that feed the chase light board so I can separate the chase light wiring from the GI ocd board but this results in the GI OCD board blowing its fuse. I assume its seeing the load from the driver board. Maybe using diodes to block reverse current draw would work, and if so what diode would be the best choice?

#564 86 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Sorry to tee up a goofy question but I failed to find an answer. I have the LEDOCD board on several games and Love it!!! Granted I simply installed it and it worked so the custom program extras I leave to the smarter then I crowd. Recently I picked up a beautiful TOTAN that was LED upgraded and I added the LEDOCD as the flicker (lightening look) was to much. My issue..... All machine lights are now perfect Except the previous owner added LED post rings and LED pop cap rings which still seem to flicker like a lightening storm. Is this something I could possibly tune using the software or just tear out all the LED rings they added? The lights do look great but really take away from the effect as I fear a seizure coming on. lol Appreciate any guidance. Thanks

Where did they connect them? I would assume GI. If so, you may be able to turn off GI dimming, or you could add a GI OCD.

#565 86 days ago
Quoted from herg:

I really don't have much motivation, either, since I don't plan to buy any Stern SAM with serial controlled lighting.

That’s a shame, because I don’t think anyone else is even looking at this as a problem to solve, but I totally get your position.

I recently sold my OCD’d MET Pro to get a Premium (I like the game a lot!) so it will be hard to adjust to blinkyland all over again... kept the ocd board, but now it has no home

It was smooth as butter in the Pro.

#566 86 days ago
Quoted from Asmig:

Has there been any attempts at getting an GI OCD to work with CFTBL's chase light board? I tried to make a Y harness to send power to the pins on the driver board that feed the chase light board so I can separate the chase light wiring from the GI ocd board but this results in the GI OCD board blowing its fuse. I assume its seeing the load from the driver board. Maybe using diodes to block reverse current draw would work, and if so what diode would be the best choice?

If you make the splitter right, it should work. I know people have successfully done it for STTNG, and I think I remember others being successful with CFTBL.

#567 86 days ago
Quoted from herg:

If you make the splitter right, it should work. I know people have successfully done it for STTNG, and I think I remember others being successful with CFTBL.

Thanks! I'll have to recheck my work and see if anyone posted their STTNG version to compare to.

Edit: just figured it out, I used the ground connection for the power driver board as outlined not to do in this post

Quoted from herg:

I would have built a splitter for the connection in this picture, mostly because that keeps it a little "cleaner" inside the head. If you do this, you DO NOT want to connect the middle GND pin since the GI OCD runs the AC through a bridge rectifier. The GND pin would cause a short due to different GND references.

[quoted image]

1 month later
#568 40 days ago

Quick question - I'm aiming to install LED and GI OCD on my TAF soon, but before I do that I'm going through all the lamps and changing them to Comet ones (not non-ghosting). I've done all the inserts and am working on the GI. I was planning on installing the boards last of all.

The GI OCD FAQ says that it changes GI from AC voltage to DC. Will this affect the polarity of #555 wedge bulbs that I install? In other words - will they continue to work when installed in either direction? I've noticed that my flashers only work with the bulb installed in one direction.

The reason I ask is that some of the GI on TAF is particularly tricky to get to, so I don't want to put it all back together and then install GI OCD only to find the bulbs no longer work in the orientation they're installed in, if that makes sense.

I guess what I'm asking is - if all the bulbs in the game light up before installing LED and GI OCD, is there a chance some wouldn't work until they were reversed in the socket afterwards?

#569 40 days ago

It depends on whether your bulbs are "AC", meaning they have a bridge in them. If so, the direction won't matter.

#570 40 days ago
Quoted from herg:

It depends on whether your bulbs are "AC", meaning they have a bridge in them. If so, the direction won't matter.

Thanks. They are sold as "AC/DC".

#571 39 days ago

Truly can't overstate how cool this product is, and how it works best with standard LEDS (not the non-ghosting types). I always load the recommended settings into my games, then sit w a computer w then game on and start to tweak. Highly recommend taking the time to install the software, and play with the settings on this amazing device.

Absolutely a game changer w some of the new led's out there now...

1 month later
#572 4 days ago

Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD in my TAF. It was bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.

The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.

I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.

Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?

D87101CD-C7AB-4D64-A8A5-6B80E8FB3B1D (resized).jpeg

Help gratefully received...

#573 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD in my TAF. It was bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.
The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.
I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.
Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?
[quoted image]
Help gratefully received...

Send Herg a pm or email, he's super helpful with his products.

#574 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.
The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.
I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.
Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?
[quoted image]
Help gratefully received...

They are the same board and circuitry. However, the default settings are different, and you’ll want to use the proper settings for your game. If you have WPC95 settings in a WPC89 game, you will be missing 2/5 of the lighting effects.

WPC95 games have 2 GI strings which are basically on all the time, which is also set this way in the LEDOCD default board as you ordered it. You can change it easily, and there are instructions on the site for this.

Also.. TZ is one of the main games to benefit from GIOCD. Are you sure you’re doing it right? IMO it is a must-have for TZ. Perhaps you used the WPC95 settings in your TZ?

#575 4 days ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Truly can't overstate how cool this product is, and how it works best with standard LEDS (not the non-ghosting types). I always load the recommended settings into my games, then sit w a computer w then game on and start to tweak. Highly recommend taking the time to install the software, and play with the settings on this amazing device.
Absolutely a game changer w some of the new led's out there now...

I’m curious about some of the settings you’ve changed - I’ve always found the default settings to be pretty great, and I admit I’m not observant enough to notice big differences when I change individual settings. The fade time, yes, but what else might one change?

#576 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Just started trying to install my LED OCD and GI OCD in my TAF. It was bought back in January 2018 (was originally meant to go in my TZ but discovered GI dimming doesn't work on it), but the GI OCD I've got has installation instructions that talk about WPC95 instead of WPC89.
The LED OCD instructions correctly say WPC89.
I've double checked my order (ordered direct from herg, had it brought back to the UK by a friend) and it definitely says WPC89 for both.
Is the GI OCD different between WPC89 and WPC95? There are two sets of instructions on the website which suggests to me that there must be some differences?
[quoted image]
Help gratefully received...

One other thing - when you’re installing, you do need to connect to different jumpers, so make sure you fine the WPC89 instructions for your TAF

#577 4 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

They are the same board and circuitry. However, the default settings are different, and you’ll want to use the proper settings for your game. If you have WPC95 settings in a WPC89 game, you will be missing 2/5 of the lighting effects.
WPC95 games have 2 GI strings which are basically on all the time, which is also set this way in the LEDOCD default board as you ordered it. You can change it easily, and there are instructions on the site for this.
Also.. TZ is one of the main games to benefit from GIOCD. Are you sure you’re doing it right? IMO it is a must-have for TZ. Perhaps you used the WPC95 settings in your TZ?

I never installed it in my TZ. None of it has been out of the packaging.

I determined before installing that GI dimming was faulty on my power board in TZ because the GI dim levels test do nothing. All of the lights stay on max brightness at any level (they switch on and off correctly according to strings). I assume my Zero Cross is faulty but it's beyond my skills to fix and the game otherwise functions perfectly. I'm aware that GI dimming has to be enabled in settings for it to work in test, etc - I've ruled out settings.

On my TAF with LEDs the dim levels test cause serious strobing effects, so I know the dimming works - in as much as the signal to dim is getting to the bulbs.

#578 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I never installed it in my TZ. None of it has been out of the packaging.
I determined before installing that GI dimming was faulty on my power board in TZ because the GI dim levels do nothing. All of the lights stay on max brightness at any level (they switch on and off correctly according to strings). I assume my Zero Cross is faulty but it's beyond my skills to fix and the game otherwise functions perfectly.
On my TAF with LEDs the dim levels test cause serious strobing effects, so I know the dimming works - in as much as the signal to dim is getting to the bulbs.

Got it - that sucks the TZ won’t do proper dimming - but it works great in TAF as well

#579 4 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Got it - that sucks the TZ won’t do proper dimming - but it works great in TAF as well

Yup, I was gutted when I found out because the machine was fully shopped and I paid a commensurate price for it. Because it is in otherwise perfect condition I've tried to put that fault out of my mind. I'll get it fixed at some point in the future.

Thanks for the clarification on the GI OCD. Just took the instructions out of the bag and found a set for WPC95 and WPC89, so I feel a little stupid now. Unfortunately I'm the sort of person that likes to know exactly what I'm doing before I start.

#580 4 days ago

Well, my LED OCD lasted about 3 seconds. The LEDs on the board just pulsed before turning off completely. No inserts lit on playfield in attract mode.

Uninstalled LED OCD and everything back to normal. Whatever fuse was on the board confirmed as blown (you can see the wire split). The fuse that was preinstalled in there has 1.5A 250V on it - is that right? The instructions talk about it being 2A...

My game has no incandescents at all (including the start button), I replaced every bulb with Comet 2SMD ones. I do have several scoop light mods though (also LED), would that cause a problem?

Here are some photos in case anything obvious stands out, but installation was straightforward.
89C91BCD-620A-4F78-BCEA-720FBB9920CA (resized).jpegA07E1277-7860-4047-B4F4-B6116034843B (resized).jpegB3905C54-E9E0-488A-88F4-1EB2A9D15E39 (resized).jpeg
DF34377F-63EB-4870-B206-89F438B52072 (resized).jpeg

#581 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I'm aware that GI dimming has to be enabled in settings for it to work in test, etc - I've ruled out settings.

That was going to be my suggestion, but you've already ruled that out. It very well could be the zero crossing signal. Because of the way GI OCD reads this signal directly off the ribbon between the CPU and power driver, it *might* work, even if the power driver has an issue. It's safer to make sure the game is working before installing, though.

Quoted from Durzel:

The fuse that was preinstalled in there has 1.5A 50V on it - is that right?

The board you have is an older design, and the current limit on it is lower due to the small transistors. I shipped them with 1.5A fuses, anything over 32V is fine. Fuse information is here:
http://ledocd.com/fuselist.html

1.5A can be borderline depending on the bulbs (2SMD will pull a bit more current). Also on the page listed above, "Note: Early boards were shipped with 1A. If this does not blow unexpectedly, it will better protect your LED OCD from damage in the case of a short. It is, however, safe to increase to 2.5A if you are having trouble with it blowing in normal operation." So, don't just go increasing the fuse for no reason, but you can increase (I suggest taking baby steps) if it is blowing and you're certain there is not a legitimate problem with the game causing it.

#582 4 days ago

Thanks very much for the lightning fast reply. Am I missing out anything by not having the Rev 3 version? It's taken me over a year to get around to trying to install it.

All the bulbs with the exception of the scoop light mods are Comet 2SMD. The scoop mods add another 7 LEDs in total. Don't have any LED strips or anything else in there.

If 2.5A is safe then I guess I'll try that, unless 2A is safer? I'm not aware of anything wrong with the game, everything works as you'd expect and there is 100% not a single incandescent in there.

Sorry for all the dumb questions.

#583 4 days ago

I had an OCD board blow in a Shadow once, sounds like a similar action with all bulbs lighting then stopping, but that was down to me pushing it a bit too hard on the board and shorting the back of it against the metal plate. Needed a new transistor, then 100% good again. Also went in AFM, but again that was down to me shorting 2 inserts (changing bulbs with power on, 2 touched, my own fault). point is you may have a short on your lamp matrix - did you put all the bulbs & holders back securely? None hanging down still? I only have the older rev4 design with transistors and a break out board (don’t ask me how rev4 is older!)

Also unplug those mods if you can do so easily.

#584 4 days ago

I'm pretty sure my board wasn't shorting on anything, it was installed on the brackets (also bought from herg ) and with the supplied nylon screws.

Just think my TAF has too many bright LEDs I think (I hope!). Will try fitting a 2A one and if that fails go up to 2.5A.

#585 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Am I missing out anything by not having the Rev 3 version?

It has bigger transistors and as a result, it can survive stuff like pushing down and shorting or shorted lamp sockets a bit more often. It's still not foolproof, though. There are no other differences in operation.

Quoted from Durzel:

scoop light mods

It depends on how these are powered. If they're hanging off the lamp matrix, they will certainly put more strain on the OCD transistors. If they're on GI, they're probably fine, and if they're powered by a separate source, even better.

Quoted from Durzel:

unless 2A is safer?

Yes, a 2A would blow quicker in the case of a "real" short, possibily saving the board. Still no guarantees, though.

Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

I only have the older rev4 design with transistors and a break out board (don’t ask me how rev4 is older!)

When I moved to the smaller LED OCD Mini, the revision numbers started over. Looking back at it, it probably is a bit confusing.

#586 4 days ago
Quoted from herg:

It has bigger transistors and as a result, it can survive stuff like pushing down and shorting or shorted lamp sockets a bit more often. It's still not foolproof, though. There are no other differences in operation.

Ok thanks. Guess I'll have to be very careful.

Quoted from herg:

It depends on how these are powered. If they're hanging off the lamp matrix, they will certainly put more strain on the OCD transistors. If they're on GI, they're probably fine, and if they're powered by a separate source, even better.

They are spliced inline with the inserts with Molex connectors, so they illuminate when the inserts do. So they would be adding load to lamps that LED OCD intercepts.

Quoted from herg:

Yes, a 2A would blow quicker in the case of a "real" short, possibily saving the board. Still no guarantees, though.

Have ordered 2A and 2.5A fuses, will try 2A first.

Can LED OCD handle the "All Lamp Test" test mode, where all insert lamps switch on at the same time and off again?

I have GI OCD yet to fit ("Rev 4 or later"). Should I be worried that I have Comet 2SMD in all of the GI too, and a few OpMax ones too?

#587 4 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Can LED OCD handle the "All Lamp Test" test mode, where all insert lamps switch on at the same time and off again?

It's no more of a "problem" than a normal game mode. Only one column is on at any time, so 8 lamp locations max. If you have an extra bulb, like the scoop lights, you now have 9 bulbs, rather than 8.

Quoted from Durzel:

I have GI OCD yet to fit ("Rev 4 or later"). Should I be worried that I have Comet 2SMD in all of the GI too, and a few OpMax ones too?

If you don't have extra stuff hanging off the GI, it should be fine. About 13 lamps per string is normal. Those bulbs run about 100 mA, if I remember correctly. That's about 1.3A, and the stock fuses are 2A per string.

#588 3 days ago

Just wanted to bump this thread. I am going down to readjust my Monster Bash GIOCD which, though I’ve had it installed for 6 months or more, I never noticed that it wasn’t deactivating the back box when the other GI strings were off. (Never tested it ? I guess?)

I also want to thank Herg for 2 outstanding boards that are must-have add-ons for these games, and for the ridiculous customer support. I’m sure I’ll be ordering another one soon..

#589 3 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I am going down to readjust my Monster Bash GIOCD which, though I’ve had it installed for 6 months or more, I never noticed that it wasn’t deactivating the back box when the other GI strings were off.

Stock WPC95 games do not have the ability to turn off strings 4 and 5, which are typically used for the backbox. The defaults settings of GI OCD handle this by setting those strings to "Always On", and it will operate like the stock game did. You can use the software to use the control input from a different string to control 4 and 5.

#590 3 days ago
Quoted from herg:

Stock WPC95 games do not have the ability to turn off strings 4 and 5, which are typically used for the backbox. The defaults settings of GI OCD handle this by setting those strings to "Always On", and it will operate like the stock game did. You can use the software to use the control input from a different string to control 4 and 5.

Exactly what I did! And it allowed me to remove the Pinbits Blackout Mod entirely. Worked like a charm

#591 3 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m curious about some of the settings you’ve changed - I’ve always found the default settings to be pretty great, and I admit I’m not observant enough to notice big differences when I change individual settings. The fade time, yes, but what else might one change?

Fade time and intensity, mainly. tweaking those can be an endless process (hence the"OCD" part), but quite entertaining. I usually have to step away from the game a bit after changing things to allow my eyes to "reset".

Most of the game settings are very good, and know alot of people just plug it in out of the box and go...I just like to tinker..cut my teeth w Herg's board on my SM, and recently changed all my inserts to a different LED type (comet's 4x SMD), so ended up tweaking again. Staggering when it's dialed in....

#592 2 days ago

Bit of a useless post but I took a video of my TAF in advance of me trying to fit my LED OCD board again, and was amazed to see that the video looks nothing like it does to me to the naked eye. In the video it looks like the machine is spazzing out, with inserts flashing almost randomly, ghosting being very manifest, etc.

Is this simply how the LEDs are behaving and that my eyes just don't "see" it, or otherwise tune it out somehow?

Dumb question I know.. but it's so weird to see a video that looks nothing like the machine does in person!

herg - I forgot to mention I have LED ring pop bumpers.. they must add a fair amount more load than a single LED. Explains 1.5A blowing at least

#593 2 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Bit of a useless post but I took a video of my TAF in advance of me trying to fit my LED OCD board again, and was amazed to see that the video looks nothing like it does to me to the naked eye. In the video it looks like the machine is spazzing out, with inserts flashing almost randomly, ghosting being very manifest, etc.

Is this simply how the LEDs are behaving and that my eyes just don't "see" it, or otherwise tune it out somehow?
Dumb question I know.. but it's so weird to see a video that looks nothing like the machine does in person!
herg - I forgot to mention I have LED ring pop bumpers.. they must add a fair amount more load than a single LED. Explains 1.5A blowing at least

Just LEDs being LEDs. One of the challenges of explaining this mod is you ACTUALLY DO need to see it in person, because the cameras can’t capture the difference

#594 2 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Just LEDs being LEDs. One of the challenges of explaining this mod is you ACTUALLY DO need to see it in person, because the cameras can’t capture the difference

I guess it also explains why some people don't have a problem with LEDs and wonder what the fuss is about. I don't see anything like that video when I'm stood in front of the machine, it just looks normal (albeit digital on-off).

I've heard people complaining of LEDs giving them headaches, and if they're more susceptible to framerates etc (that video was 29.97 FPS - standard iPhone video), and now I can sympathise!

#595 2 days ago
Quoted from Durzel:

I guess it also explains why some people don't have a problem with LEDs and wonder what the fuss is about. I don't see anything like that video when I'm stood in front of the machine, it just looks normal (albeit digital on-off).
I've heard people complaining of LEDs giving them headaches, and if they're more susceptible to framerates etc (that video was 29.97 FPS - standard iPhone video), and now I can sympathise!

Yep, I can’t really see strobing either, but I DO see flicker when the GI dims, so it’s GIOCD all day long. And I like both mods because of the nicer fading. IMO it is better than the circuitry I see in the remakes (although I dont think there’s any way to really measure that objectively)

#596 2 days ago

I’m one of those who have troubles with the blink. It’s a part of why I don’t play much on location. Herg’s boards literally are the difference between me enjoying a game and walking away from it.

Modern games with LED as the initial design thankfully are high refresh rate and quite enjoyable.

#597 2 days ago
Quoted from jfesler:

I’m one of those who have troubles with the blink. It’s a part of why I don’t play much on location. Herg’s boards literally are the difference between me enjoying a game and walking away from it.
Modern games with LED as the initial design thankfully are high refresh rate and quite enjoyable.

Yup, same here. I tried to play a newer Stern in an darkened arcade that someone had LEDed out, without an OCD. When the game flashed the entire playfield on off quickly, I got sick to my stomach. Had to walk away.

#598 1 day ago

2A did the trick.. woop!

Looks amazing even without configuring anything yet.

7D9CB8A6-BBE7-4797-A174-6D59424CDDC1 (resized).jpeg

#599 1 day ago

Fitted GI OCD too, worked first time

Some questions though..

1) When I read the settings off the GI OCD all of the strings had 100 in B8 of the range. The software shows that in orange which I presume means unsafe? What should it be by default? The software usage page shows it as 35 in B8!

2) The blinker bulbs (Comet fast and slow) behave weirdly. Doing manual testing on them they don't respond predictably, and don't seem to turn on at all without high values in the B1 setting. They don't dim at all from what I can see.

3) More of a TAF specific thing.. does anyone know what String 4 is supposed to be? From my testing String 1 = Left Playfield, String 2 = House (backglass), String 3 = People (blinkers, backglass), String 5 = Right Playfield.. which leaves?

Thanks in advance.

#600 1 day ago
Quoted from Durzel:

Fitted GI OCD too, worked first time
Some questions though..
1) When I read the settings off the GI OCD all of the strings had 100 in B8 of the range. The software shows that in orange which I presume means unsafe? What should it be by default? The software usage page shows it as 35 in B8!
2) The blinker bulbs (Comet fast and slow) behave weirdly. Doing manual testing on them they don't respond predictably, and don't seem to turn on at all without high values in the B1 setting. They don't dim at all from what I can see.
3) More of a TAF specific thing.. does anyone know what String 4 is supposed to be? From my testing String 1 = Left Playfield, String 2 = House (backglass), String 3 = People (blinkers, backglass), String 5 = Right Playfield.. which leaves?
Thanks in advance.

1) Dial the top level down to 40; that’s is strange it was set higher

as a sidebar, in general don’t check the “advanced” box either, as the boards calculate appropriate ramp values in between your lowest and highest

2) blinker bulbs don’t work real well with GIOCD, although on the site there is a specific FAQ dealing with this and a specific supplier named. You may ask Herg if you can just put incandescents (although don’t do it unless he confirms so you don’t blow the board!)

3) I forget what the strings are - you should be able to see in the menu. Go into test mode and in the GI tests each string is named.

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