(Topic ID: 99875)

Club LED OCD, tips, tricks, thoughts, and advice. (www.ledocd.com products)


By Matt_Rasmussen

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 647 posts
  • 118 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by monkeyboypaul
  • Topic is favorited by 112 Pinsiders

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There are 647 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 13.
#451 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Is the diode there and installed the right direction?

Doh! No diode and it's disconnected from the terminal strip mounted on the cabinet. Putting a diode across the lugs didn't really seem to change anything but I'm sure it's something related to that. I'll compare it to another Stern's wiring to make sure I have everything right. Thanks again for all your help!

Added over 3 years ago: EDIT: Added the diode correctly and all is working great now. Thanks again for the awesome support - killer product!

3 weeks later
#452 2 years ago

I finally picked up my new GI OCD and installed it into my WH2O today. This is my first GI OCD, but I've bought 5 LED OCD in the past. I sometimes run into problems on the software setup (Mac user), but as far as installation goes I would consider myself an expert now.

Installing the GI OCD was just as easy as installing the LED OCD, maybe even easier as I opted for the 3D printed bracket. It fit like a glove and I had plenty of space for running the cables.

I powered up the pinball machine and had the proper LEDs on the PCB. Simple. I like that. I was able to connect with the software on my initial attempt and played around with the settings a bit, but ended up leaving them at the default settings.

I'm not familiar with all the GI dimming in this game so I'm not sure what I'm looking for or how all the different GI strings should work. I know that during MULTIBALL the GI is supposed to dim and then go back up to full brightness, but I am not aware of any other GI effects with White Water. If anyone knows of any other effects please enlighten me as I would like to get the most out of my GI OCD.

I would really appreciate it.

Two questions I have about the GI OCD for herg ;

1) Why is the default value for B8 set to 35%?
2) For Fade Delay Min/Max what are the measurements that values 3 and 10 represent? Seconds? Microseconds?

2 weeks later
#453 2 years ago

Ok, I have a dumbass question. I've known of GI/LED OCD for awhile, but haven't followed the products in detail.
I see LED OCD on the website, but not GI OCD. Where do I buy GI OCD?

#454 2 years ago

They are in the LED OCD section, or you can go to all products.
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=products_all

#455 2 years ago

Thanks herg I told you it was a dumbass question! Hopefully any future questions will be a little more relevant!

#456 2 years ago

No problem. I like an easy question once in a while.

#457 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I promised myself that I wouldn't try to design another without having a game to work with.

You really need to get RFM for yourself. It is a terrific pinball game and I am sure you would enjoy it immensely.

Oh, and then be sure to make LED-OCD and/or GI-OCD boards for it (so I can buy them for both of my P2Ks).

1 month later
#458 2 years ago

Anyone interested in trading their Stern OCD for my Williams OCD?

1 week later
#459 2 years ago

herg - I understand the GIzmo is discontinued for the time being. By chance do you have plans to eventually revisit this in the future? It was a great product, and my Sopranos needs one badly.

#460 2 years ago

Actually, they're in stock now. I asked the assembly house for a quote on a smaller quantity, and the price was still OK. I just received them a couple days ago.

#461 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Actually, they're in stock now. I asked the assembly house for a quote on a smaller quantity, and the price was still OK. I just received them a couple days ago.

Oh man, perfect timing. I'll toss an order in on the website for a couple. Thanks!

1 week later
#462 2 years ago

What are the basic characteristics of the voltage curve the LED OCD is outputtting to the leds? Is dual polarity AC or single polarity AC?

I'm asking this because I'm going to replace the midget incandescent bulbs in The Shadow rings with red LED diodes and I'm not sure if I still need to use rectifiers even if I have the LED OCD board. And if someone knows the optimal resistor value for the LEDs in this kind of setup, I'd appreciate the info.

#463 2 years ago

I don't know enough about The Shadow to know the answer to this question, but are the ring lamps controlled by the lamp matrix?

If not, none of the following info will be relevant.

It's not AC at all. Both the stock game and LED OCD output a pulsed DC to the lamp matrix. Both are at about 18V DC. The difference between the two is that LED OCD pulses them at a faster rate and varies the pulse width to control brightness. Full brightness, for both the stock case and with LED OCD, is 18V DC that is on about 1/8th of the time.

Rectifiers are not useful other than making it such that the polarity of the LED doesn't matter. If you turn the LED the right way, you won't need a rectifier.

The resistor value will depend on the specs of your LED. Since they are being pulsed, you can usually get away with driving them with more current than the rated continuous current in the LED specs. Some will have a maximum pulse time, others, you'll be guessing.

If you assume that you don't want to ever overdrive them, you will need to work with 18V as your supply. Pinball LEDs do not do this. They assume ~6V, which is what the incandescent bulbs are rated at.

If you want to make sure the LEDs do not fail prematurely, look up the typical operating current (often 20mA) for the LED and the forward voltage (1.2V is a good guess) at that current. Then use Ohm's law.

V = I * R
18V supply minus the drop over the LED = the current you want to run them at * the resistor value.
In my example
18 - 1.2 = 0.020 * R
R = 840 ohms

If that's not bright enough and you don't mind risking the LEDs getting burned up, you could calculate for a 6V supply, taking the pulsing into account.
6 - 1.2 = 0.020 * R
R = 240 ohms

#464 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I don't know enough about The Shadow to know the answer to this question, but are the ring lamps controlled by the lamp matrix?

Yes, the ring lamps are controlled by the lamp matrix. Many thanks for the detailed answer, now I know what to do.

#465 2 years ago

Are the GI OCD boards now able to work in the UK on 50 Hz?

#466 2 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Are the GI OCD boards now able to work in the UK on 50 Hz?

Mine do!

#467 2 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Are the GI OCD boards now able to work in the UK on 50 Hz?

Yeah, firmware v7 added a 50 Hz timing option that can be enabled using the Windows GUI.

3 weeks later
#468 2 years ago

Installed a GI OCD board in my TOM yesterday, what a difference!
awesome product, just ordered the LED OCD, TOM's gotta sparkle

1 month later
#469 2 years ago

I'm in the club, put one in my JP last night. I have to install the configuration software yet. The default settings look good, but I want to mess around with the adjustments.

jpLedOcd (resized).jpg

1 week later
#470 2 years ago

My Spider-Man has LEDs though I don't know what type as they were done before I got it. Will the LED OCD make them less flickery/flashy? It seems it'll cure the flicker on the villain inserts by the flippers from what I can tell.

Can't quite figure out if I need the Stern Gizmo too as I'm not sure what that controls?

Given I don't know the LED type, does it take long to set up the board to get good settings (and how do I know what good looks like as this is my first pin)

#471 2 years ago
Quoted from cyberkryten:

My Spider-Man has LEDs though I don't know what type as they were done before I got it. Will the LED OCD make them less flickery/flashy? It seems it'll cure the flicker on the villain inserts by the flippers from what I can tell.
Can't quite figure out if I need the Stern Gizmo too as I'm not sure what that controls?
Given I don't know the LED type, does it take long to set up the board to get good settings (and how do I know what good looks like as this is my first pin)

There is a special settings list for SM that Herg did on my game for the inserts. It looks great.

I believe the settings for SM are in the software drop down:
http://www.ledocd.com/usage_led.html

#472 2 years ago

I have a led OCD board in my Lotr and just recently like 5 inserts have started to stay solid lit when they are supposed to dim on and off. Thoughts?

#473 2 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

I have a led OCD board in my Lotr and just recently like 5 inserts have started to stay solid lit when they are supposed to dim on and off. Thoughts?

Do they stay solid if you remove the LEDOCD board?

#474 2 years ago
Quoted from cyberkryten:

My Spider-Man has LEDs though I don't know what type as they were done before I got it. Will the LED OCD make them less flickery/flashy? It seems it'll cure the flicker on the villain inserts by the flippers from what I can tell.
Can't quite figure out if I need the Stern Gizmo too as I'm not sure what that controls?
Given I don't know the LED type, does it take long to set up the board to get good settings (and how do I know what good looks like as this is my first pin)

If they're anti-ghosting LEDs then the OCD's effect could be lesser than regular 'cheap' LEDs.

SM took more tuning than any other game I've OCD'd, but the time spent was definitely worthwhile. The 5 Villian inserts and the white arrows needed some tweaking.

You won't benefit from using a GIzmo unless the game's GI is also LED. And even then - the effect is very subtle. I've chosen not to install a GIzmo on TRON, but have on IM and SM. Each to their own.

#475 2 years ago
Quoted from cyberkryten:

My Spider-Man has LEDs though I don't know what type as they were done before I got it. Will the LED OCD make them less flickery/flashy? It seems it'll cure the flicker on the villain inserts by the flippers from what I can tell.
Can't quite figure out if I need the Stern Gizmo too as I'm not sure what that controls?
Given I don't know the LED type, does it take long to set up the board to get good settings (and how do I know what good looks like as this is my first pin)

Looks like you need the full configurable one. Not the gizmo. SM needs to be tweaked, depending on leds you used.

#476 2 years ago
Quoted from cyberkryten:

My Spider-Man has LEDs though I don't know what type as they were done before I got it. Will the LED OCD make them less flickery/flashy?

It will. LED OCD is more effective on standard LEDs (not non-ghosting) as monkeyboypaul says, but you will get improvement with nearly any type of LEDs.

Quoted from cyberkryten:

Can't quite figure out if I need the Stern Gizmo too as I'm not sure what that controls?

LED OCD controls the lamp matrix (mostly inserts), while Gizmo smooths GI (under slingshots, other plastics, etc.). You can use either by itself or both together.

Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe the settings for SM are in the software drop down

Actually, there is an XML file included in the software download that can be imported. The drop down is only for mapping lamp numbers to specific names per game. I'll help you get fully up to speed so that you'll be able to take over the company after completing the "National Treasure" hunt when I kick the bucket.

Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

You won't benefit from using a GIzmo unless the game's GI is also LED. And even then - the effect is very subtle. I've chosen not to install a GIzmo on TRON, but have on IM and SM. Each to their own.

True, it is very subtle. I actually designed GIzmo for my TRON first (start ZUSE, then hit the spinner), but I would say it shows a bit nicer effect in IM. I don't really know SM well enough to comment on it.

Quoted from dannunz:

I have a led OCD board in my Lotr and just recently like 5 inserts have started to stay solid lit when they are supposed to dim on and off. Thoughts?

Quoted from altan:

Do they stay solid if you remove the LEDOCD board?

altan has the correct answer here. You first need to determine if there is a problem with the game, then move on to troubleshooting the LED OCD if necessary. It's possible that one of the transistors on the LED OCD has failed, but no more so than a stock game. More commonly, a short under the playfield can cause this.

#477 2 years ago

I had already put non-ghosting leds in my JP before I added the OCD board.
The default settings didn't appear to make much difference so, I had to up the delay to 8 to get a real nice on/off fade. Is this because of the ng-leds?

#478 2 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I had already put non-ghosting leds in my JP before I added the OCD board.
The default settings didn't appear to make much difference so, I had to up the delay to 8 to get a real nice on/off fade. Is this because of the ng-leds?

The issue with NG bulbs is more about the minimum low brightness than delay. At low brightness percentage, the bulbs will stay off, or even flicker. I would suggest leaving delay at default and increasing the B1 value to around 40 as a starting point. Something like:

40 46 52 59 65 72 78 85 @ delay 4

#479 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Actually, there is an XML file included in the software download that can be imported. The drop down is only for mapping lamp numbers to specific names per game. I'll help you get fully up to speed so that you'll be able to take over the company after completing the "National Treasure" hunt when I kick the bucket.

Thanks for the clarification.
You better find somebody younger than me to take over for you when that time comes. I doubt I will outlast you.
The National Treasure hunt does sound like fun though.

#480 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

It will. LED OCD is more effective on standard LEDs (not non-ghosting) as monkeyboypaul says, but you will get improvement with nearly any type of LEDs.

LED OCD controls the lamp matrix (mostly inserts), while Gizmo smooths GI (under slingshots, other plastics, etc.). You can use either by itself or both together.

Actually, there is an XML file included in the software download that can be imported. The drop down is only for mapping lamp numbers to specific names per game. I'll help you get fully up to speed so that you'll be able to take over the company after completing the "National Treasure" hunt when I kick the bucket.

True, it is very subtle. I actually designed GIzmo for my TRON first (start ZUSE, then hit the spinner), but I would say it shows a bit nicer effect in IM. I don't really know SM well enough to comment on it.

altan has the correct answer here. You first need to determine if there is a problem with the game, then move on to troubleshooting the LED OCD if necessary. It's possible that one of the transistors on the LED OCD has failed, but no more so than a stock game. More commonly, a short under the playfield can cause this.

So I should disconnect the OCD board and see if it goes away correct?

#481 2 years ago
Quoted from dannunz:

So I should disconnect the OCD board and see if it goes away correct?

Yes, that would be my recommendation. If it goes away, it would be likely that the OCD board has a problem. If not, it's an issue with the game.

#482 2 years ago

Question for those who have a Stern Whitestar pin (LOTR) with both LED OCD, GI OCD, and ColorDMD: what is the best way to layout & mount the OCD & ColorDMD boards in the backbox? The reason I'm asking is that I have the OCD boards at the house ready to install and will be installing ColorDMD later, but not at the same time until my wallet recovers. I don't want to install the 2 OCD boards in such a way that I'll have to move them to install the ColorDMD in a few months.......

Oh yeah, may add PinSound later as well......

TIA!

#483 2 years ago

I'm hoping you don't have a GI OCD with plans to install in a Whitestar, since I don't make a GI OCD for Stern. You may have a GIzmo, since that does work with Whitestar.

Anyway, the LED OCD board mounts directly on the back of the backbox, while the ColorDMD mounts on the back side of the speaker panel. You won't have any issues with them interfering.

The Pinsound is another story. I have not installed one, but a quick look shows that it goes where I usually install LED OCD. Take a look at their installation instructions and avoid that area. It looks like you may have difficulty finding a spot, though.

#484 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

I'm hoping you don't have a GI OCD with plans to install in a Whitestar, since I don't make a GI OCD for Stern. You may have a GIzmo, since that does work with Whitestar.
Anyway, the LED OCD board mounts directly on the back of the backbox, while the ColorDMD mounts on the back side of the speaker panel. You won't have any issues with them interfering.
The Pinsound is another story. I have not installed one, but a quick look shows that it goes where I usually install LED OCD. Take a look at their installation instructions and avoid that area. It looks like you may have difficulty finding a spot, though.

You are correct, it is the GIzmo I ordered from you....

I'll have to consult the Pinsound website then, as the latest LOTR sound demos on YouTube for Pinsound have certainly caught my ear.....

#485 2 years ago

Thanks Herg, I'll probably start with the LED OCD and think about GI later. Quite a few of the GI bulbs are LED but I understand which does what now and so I can check.

There's no indication on the LED bulbs of the make/type so I've no idea if they're non-ghosting but I'm sure I'll figure it out

1 month later
#486 2 years ago

Has anyone installed an LED OCD in TWD Pro? I'd really like to see that.

Really.

1 week later
#488 2 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Has anyone installed an LED OCD in TWD Pro? I'd really like to see that.
Really.

I may be forced to sell my LE, buy a Pro, and do this myself...

Anyone?

#489 2 years ago

I'm having some trouble with my LED OCD board for my Shadow. On startup the D10 and D11 are both lit along with a blinking D9 every second. The game's inserts light up but a few inserts constantly blink and don't turn off. Specifically the KHAN rollovers blink and don't change when the ball rolls over the rollover switch. The shoot again constantly blinks and the right orbit Mongol hurry up is always on. This lasts for 1-2 minutes then the fuse blows on the board and the lights go out. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?

Thanks.

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#490 2 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?

Check your email.

#491 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Check your email.

Thanks Herg.

#492 2 years ago

I wanted to give a public "Thanks!!" to Herg/Harold for his excellent customer service and excellent product!! I had my LED OCD board develop a problem on one the columns of the lamp matrix on my LOTR. Problem went away with removal of the board, so he immediately told me to return it for a swap. 5 days there and back and I have a new board!! Installed it and......ahhhh....no more strobing ghostfest!!!!! As a EE by trade I can appreciate the engineering and quality he has put into this product, and it will be a must by for ANY pin that goes thru my house......Thanks Harold!!!

#493 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I wanted to give a public "Thanks!!" to Herg/Harold for his excellent customer service and excellent product!! I had my LED OCD board develop a problem on one the columns of the lamp matrix on my LOTR. Problem went away with removal of the board, so he immediately told me to return it for a swap. 5 days there and back and I have a new board!! Installed it and......ahhhh....no more strobing ghostfest!!!!! As a EE by trade I can appreciate the engineering and quality he has put into this product, and it will be a must by for ANY pin that goes thru my house......Thanks Harold!!!

That's why I've got them on a lot of my games. GREAT product.

#494 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I wanted to give a public "Thanks!!" to Herg/Harold for his excellent customer service and excellent product!! I had my LED OCD board develop a problem on one the columns of the lamp matrix on my LOTR. Problem went away with removal of the board, so he immediately told me to return it for a swap. 5 days there and back and I have a new board!! Installed it and......ahhhh....no more strobing ghostfest!!!!! As a EE by trade I can appreciate the engineering and quality he has put into this product, and it will be a must by for ANY pin that goes thru my house......Thanks Harold!!!

Same situation with me. I had an issue with my board and I got an immidiate response from Harold. I shipped out my board and i just received an email stating it was received and a new one will be shipping out tomorrow. Fantastic product and service. Thanks Harold.

#495 2 years ago

No problem with any of the boards I've ever received. I think I've order 7 of them now including a GI one. Excellent product.

#496 2 years ago

Herg is a good dude--quick to respond here on the forum, and he stands behind his product.

#497 2 years ago

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I do try to resolve any issues quickly, though forum posts are a bit more likely to slip through the cracks. Email or PM makes it more likely for me to see it.

1 week later
#498 2 years ago

Just received an LED OCD for my Congo. I'm a bit confused by the mounting location. When I put it where the instructions show, it is right in the way of the wing bolt that holds the backbox up. Is this correct, you have to remove the LED OCD board any time you need to move your machine? Obviously that isn't going to happen often, just surprised if this is the best option. Has anyone mounted it differently in a WPC-95?

20171004_145845 (resized).jpg

#499 2 years ago

I sent this reply via email as well, but in case it helps anyone else, I'll post it here.

I normally only use the one on the left. You can also choose to use a leg bolt on the right since it won't have the wide wings on it.

#500 2 years ago

Thanks! Didn't realize leg bolts were the same size. Seems like a great solution.

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