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(Topic ID: 161394)

Clogged Hakko FR300 desoldering tips

By ForceFlow

7 years ago

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20 posts
11 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 7 years ago by vid1900
Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

---

ForceFlow

Pinside Moderator

9y 238K 31,369 268 14

I have a Hakko FR300, but the tips keep clogging.

One I use frequently is clogged and I can seem to unclog it.

Another tip that I rarely use got clogged only after a few minutes of use.

When I try to run the straight metal cleaning wire through the tip, it just jams and doesn't actually go through the tip like it normally should.

These tips are way too small for even a 1/64" drill bit, so that isn't really an option.

Anyone have a good way to unclog the tips and prevent them from clogging again?

#2 7 years ago

PRW

Paul_from_Gilroy

Pinside+ Frequent

Gilroy, CA

11y 53,800 616 12 7

OP
Quoted from ForceFlow:
I have a Hakko FR300, but the tips keep clogging.
One I use frequently is clogged and I can seem to unclog it.
Another tip that I rarely use got clogged only after a few minutes of use.
When I try to run the straight metal cleaning wire through the tip, it just jams and doesn't actually go through the tip like it normally should.
These tips are way too small for even a 1/64" drill bit, so that isn't really an option.
Anyone have a good way to unclog the tips and prevent them from clogging again?

On mine I ran into the issue where the cleaning wire wouldn't go through the clogged tip. I had to work the cleaning wire through it with power on, fully heated-up.

#3 7 years ago

DLW

Pintopia

Pinside+ Frequent

Duanesburg, NY

11y 79,050 780 19 10

If this is an on going issue I would be suspect that your gun is't getting hot enough. Be sure you wait until the gun has had sufficient time to heat up. I have the 808 and never had a clog issue and I use that thing on old juke amps which are loaded with globs of nasty solder.

#4 7 years ago

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ForceFlow

Pinside Moderator

9y 238K 31,369 268 14

Quoted from Pintopia:
If this is an on going issue I would be suspect that your gun is't getting hot enough. Be sure you wait until the gun has had sufficient time to heat up. I have the 808 and never had a clog issue and I use that thing on old juke amps which are loaded with globs of nasty solder.

I usually let it heat up for 10 minutes or so before I do anything with it. I usually have it set just shy of 750'F

Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:
On mine I ran into the issue where the cleaning wire wouldn't go through the clogged tip. I had to work the cleaning wire through it with power on, fully heated-up.

That's exactly what I've been trying. No luck, unfortunately. I've even tried running the wire backwards up the nozzle, rather than through the front of the tip. I've also tried cranking the heat way up, but that didn't seem to help either.

#5 7 years ago

AMS

barakandl

nvram.weebly.com

12y 132K 10,418

you need the drill no matter what for the 1.0 tip. use it often and then run the metal poker through it. the drill should come with the FR300, it is a required tool IMO.

The moment i notice a lack of suction or i hear the pump struggle, i stop and clean the tip. Still clogged, i empty the solder tube. Still not working, paper filter is probably clogged. Still not working right, might be time to rebuild the pump (gasket, tubes, suction cup thing). It took a year of heavy use before mine needed a pump rebuild, i probably use mine more often than most.

here is the cleaning drill for 1.0mm, Hakko part #B1303

https://www.hakkousa.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=B1303

#6 7 years ago

JIG

jwilson

Pinball Art Prints

Toronto, ON

9y 106K 5,052 6 7

Yeah, I clean mine after every use, including running the cleaner wire through it. No issues so far in the last year, but you really need to do it every time.

#7 7 years ago

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,258 18

Drill baby drill

#8 7 years ago

RAP

oldschoolbob

Pinside member

Collinsville, IL

10y 111K 1,778 2

To unclog the tip, put it in a vice, heat it with a torch and run the wire through.

#9 7 years ago

EMS

emsrph

Pinside member

12y 75,300 1,352 1

Mine clogged and couldn't get the wire thru. Didn't have the drill so took a sewing needle in a pair of vice grips and that made it thru.

Eric

#10 7 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

Banning, CA

11y 90,150 4,795 14

That's a little bit low on the temperature, I would try about 800 degrees. Since you're on and off the joint so fast (and actually never touching the pad) you can run a little hotter and that extra temperature helps keep the hakko from clogging.

I see a lot of people release the trigger as they pull it off the joint. You want to run it for another second or two after removing it from the circuit so the nozzle gets cleared of solder.

The tips should not clog that fast and somethings wrong if you can't get the drill bit through fairly easily when the gun is heated. Either the temperature is set too low or the calibration is way off or the filter is not being changed frequently enough. As barakandl said you can hear a definite change in the pitch of the pump when things are getting dirty/clogged.

#11 7 years ago

TAB

terryb

Inactive member

Banning, CA

11y 90,150 4,795 14

I just double-checked the FR300 manual (I'm still using an 808) and they recommend 750 degrees for through-hole boards. That is less than they recommend on the 808 (I presume because it's more efficient). The next setting is 865 and that's too high in my opinion.

Someone with experience with the FR300 can jump in, but based on the manual I would stay with 750 degrees and check the other issues I mentioned. Again though, calibration could be an issue.

#12 7 years ago

AMS

barakandl

nvram.weebly.com

12y 132K 10,418

I have my set to 750f and it plenty hot enough to melt well heat sinked ground plane header pins. I solder the ground plane header pins at 800f on the fx888d with a chisel tip. I do typical through hole soldering at 750f too... i like it hot and fast.

The FR300 uses a new style tip. After using an 808 and fr300 for long periods i have noticed the metal used in the fr300 tip is different than the 808 tips. They seem to last longer, but do indeed seem to clog more.

#13 7 years ago

MCD

dasvis

Pinside member

Salem, OR

12y 101K 4,796 11 16

Quoted from barakandl:
... i like it hot and fast.

Me too .

#14 7 years ago

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ForceFlow

Pinside Moderator

9y 238K 31,369 268 14

Quoted from emsrph:
Mine clogged and couldn't get the wire thru. Didn't have the drill so took a sewing needle in a pair of vice grips and that made it thru.
Eric

No luck with that one.

I have a .8mm, 1.0mm, and 1.6mm tips with matching cleaning wires. .8mm and 1.0mm tips are clogged.

In the midst of trying to unclocg on the .8mm and 1.0mm tip, something broke on the inside of the unit and started rattling when I activate the pump. I took off the yellow cover, opened up the black chamber, and shook out two pieces of blue plastic. I'm Not sure where they came from. It sounds like there's still a piece rattling around in the handle too.

However, given all that, everything still seems to operate when using the 1.6mm tip.

[edit]: Looks like the warranty was only 90 days. I've had it for just over a year now.

20160605234116698_(resized).jpg

#15 7 years ago

EMS

emsrph

Pinside member

12y 75,300 1,352 1

Quoted from oldschoolbob:
To unclog the tip, put it in a vice, heat it with a torch and run the wire through.

If it won't melt at all installed in the gun, this might be the way to go.

#16 7 years ago

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ForceFlow

Pinside Moderator

9y 238K 31,369 268 14

Well, I ordered the drill bits. Guess I'll see if those help.

I also took apart the case to figure out where those plastic pieces came from. It looks like they helped to hold the motor. I epoxied them back into place. The rattling in the handle was just some tiny pellets of solder.

20160606211203826_(resized).jpg
20160606211219553_(resized).jpg

#17 7 years ago

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ForceFlow

Pinside Moderator

9y 238K 31,369 268 14

The drill bits arrived. I was quite surprised at how easy it was. I thought for sure I would be struggling with the bits and the tips for 20 minutes.

I extended the bit out of the holder, inserted into the tip, and gently twisted until it came through on the other side.

I ended up with mostly brown looking powder.

Now, if these 1mm and 0.8mm tips should dull or break at some point, is there somewhere I could get just the bits, and not have to buy both the bit and the handle again?

#18 7 years ago

eh97ac

Pinside member

Toronto, ON

12y 47,800 896 3

Late to the party. I used to have this problem with my gun/tip and then I saw a video (can't remember where). Anyways, once you are done working, face the tip to the ceiling, pull the trigger and shove the cleaning rod through the tip a bunch of time. Since then my tips last and last.

#19 7 years ago

AMS

barakandl

nvram.weebly.com

12y 132K 10,418

OP
Quoted from ForceFlow:
The drill bits arrived. I was quite surprised at how easy it was. I thought for sure I would be struggling with the bits and the tips for 20 minutes.
I extended the bit out of the holder, inserted into the tip, and gently twisted until it came through on the other side.
I ended up with mostly brown looking powder.
Now, if these 1mm and 0.8mm tips should dull or break at some point, is there somewhere I could get just the bits, and not have to buy both the bit and the handle again?

brown powder is probably flux mixed with corroded solder. Corroded boards will clog up tips quick (and the filters). One tip i'd say is reflow more solder into a really skanky looking joint before sucking her dry. It will help keep your tip unclogged.

Also if you suck a tiny bit of a clipped off lead, they can get stuck in there too. Drill immensily helps... just dont snap the drill bit off in the tip or you are in trouble (been then).

I often use the drill with the tip right on the gun. For a tough clog you can put the tip in a vice or something.

#20 7 years ago

BOY

vid1900

Pinside member

Sana'a

12y 169K 40,258 18

OP
Quoted from ForceFlow:
Now, if these 1mm and 0.8mm tips should dull or break at some point, is there somewhere I could get just the bits, and not have to buy both the bit and the handle again?

Any joint like MCS or Grainger will have them.

Ream the gun with the wire after each use, before it cools down.

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