(Topic ID: 322533)

Cleopatra EM Playfield Restoration Complete- Gameplay Video

By Garrett

1 year ago


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  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Garrett
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#1 1 year ago

I picked up my Cleopatra 10 years ago. I was fairly new to the hobby at the time and this was the first playfield that I tried paint touch ups. Like most Cleo's the lower playfield usually losses the most paint around the bonus area.

One question that does come up frequently is, "do I have to clear coat a playfield after paint touch ups for a home use only machine?". We can see that overall, the paint touch ups held up quite well when routinely waxed. Actually forgot how much touch up was done until hit with the Magic Eraser. And Cleo abuses the playfield with very high ball speed, basically SS speed due to the 24VDC to the flippers, pops, kickers. Hands down, the fastest EM I've ever played.

I prefer to touch up the original cabinet paint when refurbing. But this Cleo appears to have spent most of it's life in a very small bar filled lots of cigarrete smokers. I would prefer to repaint the cabinet but without a heated garage I won't have time this year. Will see if the old cab paint will clean up and touch it up for now.

Before teardown pics;

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right side cabinet (resized).jpgright side cabinet (resized).jpg
playfield before tear down (resized).JPGplayfield before tear down (resized).JPG
right kickout before ME (resized).JPGright kickout before ME (resized).JPG
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After Magic Eraser
upper playfield arch after ME (resized).JPGupper playfield arch after ME (resized).JPG
Kickouts after ME (resized).JPGKickouts after ME (resized).JPG
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#2 1 year ago

Second time touching up the paint on this pin. The bonus area just sucks and still more to do.
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#3 1 year ago

Following

#4 1 year ago

Looking good.. Did you flatten and level the inserts before touching up?

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

Looking good.. Did you flatten and level the inserts before touching up?

No I did not. Went through that with the Aztec. Easier to fill them when clear coating.

What sucks is the insert for each half of the bonus cracked during removal and it’s a weird size.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

No I did not. Went through that with the Aztec. Easier to fill them when clear coating.
What sucks is the insert for each half of the bonus cracked during removal and it’s a weird size.

I saw your post about that one breaking.. That sucks. Have you located something yet?

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

I saw your post about that one breaking.. That sucks. Have you located something yet?

Not yet. I’ll post a pic with a scale over the opening for future reference.

Edit: It’s 1 3/16”, same size as the star rollovers. Need more sleep :p

#8 1 year ago

Two weeks of playfield touch up. A little work left around the Double Bonus but have had enough of the painting, good enough and better looking than it was.

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#9 1 year ago

The paint is looking good! Are you going to clear coat this one or use a playfield protector? I was going to ask about sanding inserts and a ruffing up the rest of the playfield for clear coat a few days ago but it got away from me.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

The paint is looking good! Are you going to clear coat this one or use a playfield protector? I was going to ask about sanding inserts and a ruffing up the rest of the playfield for clear coat a few days ago but it got away from me.

Going to clear it with water based Varathan since the initial success on the Aztec. I don't have an auto clear set up at home and the weather is starting to turn in Michigan. Would rather try the 2K on a cheaper/more common pin in case I do something stupid.

Yup, scuff up the inserts as suggested in Vid's guide, incredible resource. I had clear that lifted on one of the Aztec inserts that was filled and leveled with super glue. Now that technique can produce a nice result but is a gigantic pain in the ass. The clear seperated after the second or third coat, so added more fill/sand time trying to fix the mistake.

How's it going with the 2K clear on your pins? The results look very good in your thread, was there much orange peel to sand out?

The Varathane rattle cans resulted in a fair amount of orange peel. Lighter coats would of course cause more but when shooting a very heavy coat (starts to get milky) some out gassing bubbles (fisheyes?) would also become trapped. I found a thread from someone on pinside who used varathane and a micro-fiber paint pad and claimed good results, and I found the same experince. Very smooth application of clear that resulted in less sanding time. Love working on them but trying to be as efficient as possible with time.

#11 1 year ago

Great game, one of my favorite EM’s in my collection. Looking good!

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#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Classics_Master:

Great game, one of my favorite EM’s in my collection. Looking good!
[quoted image][quoted image]

And a nice looking example too!

There are a few Cleo fans out there but most people hate it due to the high difficulty and I get that. But if lucky enough to have this pin in your collection then you can really get to know the table, and it's brilliant. The player must constantly be anticipating the ball as with any pin but the high ball speed on this pin will absolutely test your skills. Cleo is insanely fast when set up properly. It is a shooters table with a brutal layout and that's why it makes me want to play "just one more game".

And not many other EM's have the abilty reset the drops and score the double bonus and/or extra ball on every ball! Saying it is easy, doing it is extremely difficult.

The playfield art is ok but it has to be one of Morrison's best back glasses. Cleo is always ponting at me and calling me out...so she can whoop my ass!

Really looking forward to playing this pin with a flat playing surface. The William's Aztec was a fast playing EM and after clear coating, it is very fast and more importantly has accurate ball trajectory once again. Hopefully will have this Cleo project done by Christmas. As you can tell, I'm a big Cleo fan

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

And a nice looking example too!
There are a few Cleo fans out there but most people hate it due to the high difficulty and I get that. But if lucky enough to have this pin in your collection then you can really get to know the table, and it's brilliant. The player must constantly be anticipating the ball as with any pin but the high ball speed on this pin will absolutely test your skills. Cleo is insanely fast when set up properly. It is a shooters table with a brutal layout and that's why it makes me want to play "just one more game".
And not many other EM's have the abilty reset the drops and score the double bonus and/or extra ball on every ball! Saying it is easy, doing it is extremely difficult.
The playfield art is ok but it has to be one of Morrison's best back glasses. Cleo is always ponting at me and calling me out...so she can whoop my ass!
Really looking forward to playing this pin with a flat playing surface. The William's Aztec was a fast playing EM and after clear coating, it is very fast and more importantly has accurate ball trajectory once again. Hopefully will have this Cleo project done by Christmas. As you can tell, I'm a big Cleo fan

Yes, super fast game and the shots back to the top are very narrow and difficult. Also one of the best looking Gottlieb games ever made. I believe the Cleopatra EM’s play faster than the SS versions! I’ve also had a couple Pyramids over the years, same game, but I like the 4-player Cleopatra EM the best. That’s a game you can’t put on high tap or you will break drop targets, happened on one the examples I’d had in the past. Good luck with your game and send pictures when it’s completed.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Classics_Master:

Yes, super fast game and the shots back to the top are very narrow and difficult. Also one of the best looking Gottlieb games ever made. I believe the Cleopatra EM’s play faster than the SS versions! I’ve also had a couple Pyramids over the years, same game, but I like the 4-player Cleopatra EM the best. That’s a game you can’t put on high tap or you will break drop targets, happened on one the examples I’d had in the past. Good luck with your game and send pictures when it’s completed.

You are one lucky dude to have had more than one Cleo/Pyramid.

When I first got this pin up and running 10 years ago, played two games before obliterating two of the existing drop targets and chipping the pop skirts. Beleive it or not, after 10 years I have to replace the pop skirts once more due to one of them chipping again. She is brutal.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

You are one lucky dude to have had more than one Cleo/Pyramid.
When I first got this pin up and running 10 years ago, played two games before obliterating two of the existing drop targets and chipping the pop skirts. Beleive it or not, after 10 years I have to replace the pop skirts once more due to one of them chipping again. She is brutal.

Yes, been collecting pinball machines for a long time. One of my pyramid machines was sample #2. I still have a Pyramid and SS cleopatra NOS glass, beautiful art.

#16 1 year ago

Really interesting how the art is so different on each version. The cleopatra EM art is all indoors and Pyramid is all outside. The SS Cleopatra is half inside and half outside. I do like the green statue on the top left of the cleopatra EM and the purple columns in the background. That Pyramid is cool as well, but mostly hot pink. Also interesting how Cleopatra herself skin tone is more tan on the SS, you’d think they use the same color on all three? The lion is different colors as well. Which is your favorite art?

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#17 1 year ago
Quoted from Classics_Master:

Really interesting how the art is so different on each version. The cleopatra EM art is all indoors and Pyramid is all outside. The SS Cleopatra is half inside and half outside. I do like the green statue on the top left of the cleopatra EM and the purple columns in the background. That Pyramid is cool as well, but mostly hot pink. Also interesting how Cleopatra herself skin tone is more tan on the SS, you’d think they use the same color on all three? The lion is different colors as well. Which is your favorite art?
[quoted image][quoted image]

All of them

I’m a huge Morison fan. The Cleo EM is my first choice, the SS second and then Pyramid. But all three are just cool works of art.

Currently have a Gridiron too. Now that is the total package from back glass to playfield. It is…a work of art.

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#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

All of them
I’m a huge Morison fan. The Cleo EM is my first choice, the SS second and then Pyramid. But all three are just cool works of art.
Currently have a Gridiron too. Now that is the total package from back glass to playfield. It is…a work of art. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow that’s the nicest Gridiron I’ve ever seen! Glass always seems to be flaking on those, that one looks great. Very cool game, I like the last of the EM era Gottlieb’s, they all play so fast. I currently have a close encounters EM, cleopatra EM, Egg Head, and a Poseidon as far as Gottlieb EM’s go. I’ve had a lot of them over the years, but I agree with you that Cleopatra is one of the very best and fastest EM’s ever produced. No plans on ever selling that one.

#19 1 year ago

If the original double bonus insert had not cracked it would have been reinstalled. But since it did and never liked the white insert in that location….

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1 week later
#20 1 year ago

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#21 1 year ago

Cab is driving me nuts. Just trying to get it presentable until it can be repainted next spring.

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#22 1 year ago

The cabinet isn't horrible to leave it for a few months.. If you color match the white, you could put some over the bare wood to make it less noticeable.

#23 1 year ago

Was afraid I had over filled a bit to much. Using Varathane to clear and fill.

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#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Was afraid I had over filled a bit to much. Using Varathane to clear and fill.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats how Ive been doing it, lay down my first coat and block sand, over fill the inserts with drips then sand enough to scuff the surface, then lay down my topcoats and block sand level. Although I need to drip more than what I think because I still get dial back and it still ends up cupping. Not to any extent as prior to clearing but just enough to mess with the reflection and make it look worse than it actually is.

1 week later
#25 1 year ago

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#26 1 year ago
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#27 1 year ago

Will need one more coat. The clear is dry in the pictures.

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#28 1 year ago

Wow.. that looks great. What clear did you use?

#29 1 year ago

Re-glued the cabinet and installed new leg plates. A Pinside member in another thread said they cleared their lower cab boards to make it easier to clean than the bare wood. Solid idea.

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#30 1 year ago
Quoted from BubbaK:

Wow.. that looks great. What clear did you use?

Just the water based Varathane crystal clear. I know that is taboo to many but I don't have the set up for an automotive clear. Yet. One day

What sanding I've done so far has been focused on leveling inserts. I do rough up the overall surface between coats.

Here's what I've learned so far. When reading threads about clear coating with Varathane most people use a rattle can and some would use a brush. Both have more cons then they do pros from some experimenting. The rattle can leaves ridiculous orange peel that takes a lot of sanding to get level and if you go too heavy bubbles may get trapped as it cures. Brushing won't result in as many bubbles but the brush strokes are present.

In another thread on Pinside buried deep in the topic one person suggested using a Shur-Line paint pad. This man is brilliant! It leaves a somewhat consistent layer that only leaves those ripples that you can see in the reflection. The little ripples sand out very easily and quickly! The paint pad is awesome and saves a crap load of time.

When I first start the clear on a playfield, I do use a light mist out of a rattle can. Want to lock in the paint touch ups. After that dries I hit it with the paint pad, level inserts, sand, coat, level and sand, etc.

Should be one more final coat tonight and good to go. I'm afraid to say anything, but right now it's almost perfectly flat top to bottom. This 24VDC pin was fast with 16 cupped inserts in the lower playfield. It's so flat I'm afarid it will self destruct now

#31 1 year ago

That really came out nice. My PF is like yours was. I put a playfield protector on it and it made a huge difference in game play having a smooth surface. The ball is going to fly on that game when you are done.

#32 1 year ago
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#33 1 year ago

Bubbak, do you have any pictures you’ve previously taken of your score motor? I’m wondering if my 2B switch stack activator is the right one. It’s always had a nagging start problem. Also interested in the stack activators for 1C-4C too. Thanks!

#34 1 year ago

The downside of water based Varathane is the number of coats it takes compared to an auto clear. Just a light sand and polish left to do after a few days of drying time.

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#35 1 year ago

After Maguires polish. Will hit it with novis and wax soon.
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#36 1 year ago

Wow.. thats beautiful.. Nice job. How long does Varathane take to cure before you can wax it?

#37 1 year ago

It is recommended to let cure for a couple weeks.

It’s not perfect but definitely better than my first attempt.

1 week later
#38 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

It is recommended to let cure for a couple weeks.
It’s not perfect but definitely better than my first attempt.

Looks really fine to me !

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from phototamer:

Looks really fine to me !

Appreciate it. Life has slowed this down and it’s so close too.

I just need to replace the sleeves on the pops, flippers, add additional playfield light sockets and a once over on the bonus unit. And then on to reassembly of the playfield.

Made a couple of slight color modifications

Two maybe three weeks out.

#40 1 year ago

It is looking fabulous. I’ve never played that machine before.

#41 1 year ago

whats the next item on the agenda? Really liking this project!

#42 1 year ago

Cleaning the clear out of the star rollovers is a lot of fun :p. I did use spare stars to help but still had a lot of build up.

Also had to drill out the clear for the pop rings.

Had to travel for work last week and this week as well so progress has been slowed.

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#43 1 year ago

It’s a very dark playfield.

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#44 1 year ago
Quoted from Garrett:

It’s a very dark playfield.
[quoted image]

This a mod? I love this idea!

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

This a mod? I love this idea!

Bally’s tend to have them under the upper arch. Always liked them up there and Cleo doesn’t have many GI lights on the mid upper playfield.

Something else they do I’ve always liked is the use of color on the side rails and upper arch. I have definitely committed a cardinal sin with the purists.

Just about to start the playfield reassemble. I forgot how much crap there is to go through under the playfield on this one.

#46 1 year ago

To prevent potential shorting. 1/2” OD tube and Mylar on the ball arch.

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#47 1 year ago
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#48 1 year ago

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#49 1 year ago

More to do but getting closer. The first pic was before tear down.

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#50 1 year ago

Looking great. I like the art work and colors on the playfield.

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