Agreed markers and paint pens will run but you can clear over more then just acrylic.

thanks
Blake

I second the protector idea. Even if you no one is making them you can cut your own if your handy. Here is one I made for my Gulfstream with help from a friend. It’s made of very thin PETG and is crystal clear.

Thanks
Blake

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The material we used to make it (PETG same as playfield plastics) is too tough for long term/accurate use with an xacto. Or most any other blade. Using a small pair of high end scissors gets you clean and accurate cuts from pilot hole to pilot hole. No rough edges, no bending and no slips. The pilot holes and all other circular holes are made using several different size hole punches. With the hole punches you need a surface that is durable but allows the punch to penetrate. We used 3/4" plywood and had good results. Make sure its not warped or you quickly lose all your force from the give of the wood. Also helps to place the plywood on a hard surface again to minimize the play.

Prep work with your tracing and or measurements is the most important part. Small details that become important to the overall shape of the protector are easily overlooked. Double/triple check your work.

Thanks
Blake

Every circular hole you punch is for a post, rail, ball guide or other subassembly. You want to make all of the punches and cuts just a little larger then what’s going to be screwed down on the playfield. Say an 1/8”. The protector should float when laying on the PF. So it doesn’t bind or pinch in anyway. If done correctly your protector will lay nice and flat for ball roll and not obstruct any mechanics of the game.

Make your straight cuts from post to post for areas like slingshots. Since you’re not trying to protect under the plastics you’re protecting where the ball rolls. So that area can be cut out as it is in my photo. How far under the plastics is your choice. We typically do just enough to not make it noticeable all while protecting the PF 100%.

Hole size is dictated by what’s being mounted in that location. Again you want wiggle room but not to the point where the ball can get hung up. 1/8” all around usually works.

We used three different sets of punches. You get what you pay for. Cheap punches don’t deliver all of your impact and are not as sharp. They also might have burrs or be a pain to remove the pieces of plastic from.

Hope this helps.
Blake

We used the ones in your first link. But looking at the second link I like how there is a point that holds your punch in place and aids in lining up. This could prove to be handy as the punch does tend to want to jump on you especially if your surfaces are not flat.

Thanks
Blake

One hit with the hammer. The more you hits you have to make to get through the plastic you risk being out of alignment.

Get a small (good quality) pair of craft scissors. They will cut easier because they wont bend and are sharp. Circular scissors may be helpful but I did not use them in this case.

On most pins you will have to keep the protector about a 1/2" from the apron as its the only way to remove and put the apron back on without damaging the protector.

The protector eventually rests against posts, lane guides, flipper bushings, pop assemblies and other top side items. once in place and still free floating it doesn't tend to lift up or move. But can if you need it too. On the protector for Gulfstream I could move it about an 1/8" while in place.

Hope this helps,
Blake