Markers and paint sticks will most likely bleed under the clear. Acrylics are stable.

Yes, no markers, no Sharpie....The result will be horrible under the clearcoat.
As mentioned, Acrylic is the only way to be safe.

Yves

Be sure to read Vid's guide.

I'll post the specific section on paint for you.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-629391

Be sure to review the entire thread a few times. It's worth it.

Agreed markers and paint pens will run but you can clear over more then just acrylic.

thanks
Blake

So if someone used Markers, sharpies, or Paint pens - how would they remove that before the clear coated?

Asking for a friend

Can you get a playfield protector?

I second the protector idea. Even if you no one is making them you can cut your own if your handy. Here is one I made for my Gulfstream with help from a friend. It’s made of very thin PETG and is crystal clear.

Thanks
Blake

AE7FF7EE-86D5-4CBA-B523-39D1308ADB84 (resized).jpeg

Can you tell us what tools you used to cut the various shapes? I plan to make several of these myself, beats the $150+ for each. I have an x-acto and several different types of blades, scissors, a soldering iron with a hot knife attachment, and for the various round holes up to about 1.5" diameter I was going to use a drill with a set of step drill bits. Anything else you would recommend (or un-recommend)?

The material we used to make it (PETG same as playfield plastics) is too tough for long term/accurate use with an xacto. Or most any other blade. Using a small pair of high end scissors gets you clean and accurate cuts from pilot hole to pilot hole. No rough edges, no bending and no slips. The pilot holes and all other circular holes are made using several different size hole punches. With the hole punches you need a surface that is durable but allows the punch to penetrate. We used 3/4" plywood and had good results. Make sure its not warped or you quickly lose all your force from the give of the wood. Also helps to place the plywood on a hard surface again to minimize the play.

Prep work with your tracing and or measurements is the most important part. Small details that become important to the overall shape of the protector are easily overlooked. Double/triple check your work.

Thanks
Blake

Could you explain exactly where you would decide to locate the pilot holes? Like at the ends of each straight line? What size hole for those? Can you give a link to the sort of punches you use? Sorry, lot of questions.

Every circular hole you punch is for a post, rail, ball guide or other subassembly. You want to make all of the punches and cuts just a little larger then what’s going to be screwed down on the playfield. Say an 1/8”. The protector should float when laying on the PF. So it doesn’t bind or pinch in anyway. If done correctly your protector will lay nice and flat for ball roll and not obstruct any mechanics of the game.

Make your straight cuts from post to post for areas like slingshots. Since you’re not trying to protect under the plastics you’re protecting where the ball rolls. So that area can be cut out as it is in my photo. How far under the plastics is your choice. We typically do just enough to not make it noticeable all while protecting the PF 100%.

Hole size is dictated by what’s being mounted in that location. Again you want wiggle room but not to the point where the ball can get hung up. 1/8” all around usually works.

We used three different sets of punches. You get what you pay for. Cheap punches don’t deliver all of your impact and are not as sharp. They also might have burrs or be a pain to remove the pieces of plastic from.

Hope this helps.
Blake

Are these the sort of hole punches to use?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-Hollow-Punch-Set-12-Piece-6588/205848344?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=CjwKCAjwtqj2BRBYEiwAqfzur8DFWYi5NO5_y7B8p4MKgybL6GMpa16Xc19Ib8ESgtH81Ez48rAQIRoCsiYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

....or....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-Professional-Gasket-Hollow-Punch-Set-and-Case-10-Piece-46025/309323506?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=CjwKCAjwtqj2BRBYEiwAqfzur91gv07FdVRN_9YGv5tqIN9lH7h32Ka_HQ4OOeb2HYwmTBzXtMamTBoCBooQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

We used the ones in your first link. But looking at the second link I like how there is a point that holds your punch in place and aids in lining up. This could prove to be handy as the punch does tend to want to jump on you especially if your surfaces are not flat.

Thanks
Blake

Just a few last questions as I should be starting on this thing over the weekend:

When you use the punch, do you slam the hammer down to knock out the hole in one hit, or sort of tap-tap-tap gently but firmly until you're through the plastic?

How did you make your circular cutouts for the pop bumpers? Some sort of curved scissors? How big are the other scissors you used, it looks like you had to get into some tight spots.

I assume that somewhere, the protector had to be resting against something, even if the rest of it "floated" around posts and such, otherwise gravity and vibration would eventually cause it to move down/forward until something stopped it. To me, the most logical thing would be to have it butt up against the apron while still floating everywhere else, or it will butt up against the apron in time anyway. Does this make sense to do?

One hit with the hammer. The more you hits you have to make to get through the plastic you risk being out of alignment.

Get a small (good quality) pair of craft scissors. They will cut easier because they wont bend and are sharp. Circular scissors may be helpful but I did not use them in this case.

On most pins you will have to keep the protector about a 1/2" from the apron as its the only way to remove and put the apron back on without damaging the protector.

The protector eventually rests against posts, lane guides, flipper bushings, pop assemblies and other top side items. once in place and still free floating it doesn't tend to lift up or move. But can if you need it too. On the protector for Gulfstream I could move it about an 1/8" while in place.

Hope this helps,
Blake

Helps a lot. Thanks Blake!