(Topic ID: 269189)

Clearcoating over touchup


By RONR11

13 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Blake
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    AE7FF7EE-86D5-4CBA-B523-39D1308ADB84 (resized).jpeg

    #1 13 days ago

    I just got a stripped playfield that has been touchup with markers, paint sticks and ready for clear. Can I use automotive clear without any problems? Thanks Ron

    #2 13 days ago

    Markers and paint sticks will most likely bleed under the clear. Acrylics are stable.

    #3 13 days ago

    Yes, no markers, no Sharpie....The result will be horrible under the clearcoat.
    As mentioned, Acrylic is the only way to be safe.

    Yves

    #4 13 days ago

    Be sure to read Vid's guide.

    I'll post the specific section on paint for you.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-629391

    Be sure to review the entire thread a few times. It's worth it.

    #5 13 days ago
    Quoted from Arcane:

    Yes, no markers, no Sharpie....The result will be horrible under the clearcoat.
    As mentioned, Acrylic is the only way to be safe.
    Yves

    Agreed markers and paint pens will run but you can clear over more then just acrylic.

    thanks
    Blake

    #6 13 days ago

    So if someone used Markers, sharpies, or Paint pens - how would they remove that before the clear coated?

    Asking for a friend

    #7 13 days ago

    My problem also, the play field has already been touched up . Should I just get a Mylar kit?

    #8 13 days ago

    Can you get a playfield protector?

    #9 13 days ago
    Quoted from dothedoo:

    Can you get a playfield protector?

    I second the protector idea. Even if you no one is making them you can cut your own if your handy. Here is one I made for my Gulfstream with help from a friend. It’s made of very thin PETG and is crystal clear.

    Thanks
    Blake

    AE7FF7EE-86D5-4CBA-B523-39D1308ADB84 (resized).jpeg
    #10 12 days ago
    Quoted from Blake:

    I second the protector idea. Even if you no one is making them you can cut your own if your handy. Here is one I made for my Gulfstream with help from a friend. It’s made of very thin PETG and is crystal clear.
    Thanks
    Blake
    [quoted image]

    Can you tell us what tools you used to cut the various shapes? I plan to make several of these myself, beats the $150+ for each. I have an x-acto and several different types of blades, scissors, a soldering iron with a hot knife attachment, and for the various round holes up to about 1.5" diameter I was going to use a drill with a set of step drill bits. Anything else you would recommend (or un-recommend)?

    #11 12 days ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    Can you tell us what tools you used to cut the various shapes? I plan to make several of these myself, beats the $150+ for each. I have an x-acto and several different types of blades, scissors, a soldering iron with a hot knife attachment, and for the various round holes up to about 1.5" diameter I was going to use a drill with a set of step drill bits. Anything else you would recommend (or un-recommend)?

    The material we used to make it (PETG same as playfield plastics) is too tough for long term/accurate use with an xacto. Or most any other blade. Using a small pair of high end scissors gets you clean and accurate cuts from pilot hole to pilot hole. No rough edges, no bending and no slips. The pilot holes and all other circular holes are made using several different size hole punches. With the hole punches you need a surface that is durable but allows the punch to penetrate. We used 3/4" plywood and had good results. Make sure its not warped or you quickly lose all your force from the give of the wood. Also helps to place the plywood on a hard surface again to minimize the play.

    Prep work with your tracing and or measurements is the most important part. Small details that become important to the overall shape of the protector are easily overlooked. Double/triple check your work.

    Thanks
    Blake

    #12 12 days ago

    Could you explain exactly where you would decide to locate the pilot holes? Like at the ends of each straight line? What size hole for those? Can you give a link to the sort of punches you use? Sorry, lot of questions.

    #13 11 days ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    Could you explain exactly where you would decide to locate the pilot holes? Like at the ends of each straight line? What size hole for those? Can you give a link to the sort of punches you use? Sorry, lot of questions.

    Every circular hole you punch is for a post, rail, ball guide or other subassembly. You want to make all of the punches and cuts just a little larger then what’s going to be screwed down on the playfield. Say an 1/8”. The protector should float when laying on the PF. So it doesn’t bind or pinch in anyway. If done correctly your protector will lay nice and flat for ball roll and not obstruct any mechanics of the game.

    Make your straight cuts from post to post for areas like slingshots. Since you’re not trying to protect under the plastics you’re protecting where the ball rolls. So that area can be cut out as it is in my photo. How far under the plastics is your choice. We typically do just enough to not make it noticeable all while protecting the PF 100%.

    Hole size is dictated by what’s being mounted in that location. Again you want wiggle room but not to the point where the ball can get hung up. 1/8” all around usually works.

    We used three different sets of punches. You get what you pay for. Cheap punches don’t deliver all of your impact and are not as sharp. They also might have burrs or be a pain to remove the pieces of plastic from.

    Hope this helps.
    Blake

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    From: $ 44.00
    $ 36.00
    Playfield - Other
    Ramp-O-Matic
    $ 27.50
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 19.99
    Electronics
    PinballElectronics.com
    $ 20.00
    Various Novelties
    GC Pinball
    $ 28.00
    Lighting - Other
    Rock Custom Pinball
    $ 7,899.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    $ 29.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Filament Printing
    $ 29.50
    Playfield - Plastics
    Pinball Haus
    $ 76.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    From: $ 175.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Pinball Photos
    $ 35.00
    Cabinet - Decals
    Pinball Haus
    From: $ 19.95
    From: $ 127.05
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    PinWoofer
    $ 26.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 48.00
    Playfield - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 24.00
    Playfield - Other
    Pin Monk
    $ 29.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    From: $ 39.00
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Full Tilt Pinball LEDs
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    $ 10.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Doc's Pinball Shop
    $ 28.50
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 29.50
    Playfield - Plastics
    Pinball Haus

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside