I wouldn't..You can have a local vinyl sign company laminate a clear layer over your decals before you install them

I could swear that someone had machines at Expo a couple years ago with CC cabinets.

I've done it on a number of cabs and with the right technique and clearcoat, it can come out great. Heard from people that I've done it for that move their machines around a lot and they're impressed with the durability. If chroming out a machine, the shine blends in nicely and the UV protection is a good bonus. It takes a ton of work, but the outcome is worth it to protect the investment of a complete restore.
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This looks so good. So what are the right techniques? Is there any special prep involved that would be different from say just clear coating a playfield?

Also, I would imagine that decals with a matt finish would provide a better surface for the CC as opposed to gloss finish decals?

Gweempose has a beautiful Pinbot that's clearcoated and gorgeous. When I get around to redoing my Congo decals, I'm gonna spring some extra $ to have them sealed in 2PAC.

Thanks for the compliment on the Pinbot. It was the first and only cabinet I've done and it was all done by hand, no decals or stencils. It was alot of work but it did turn out very nice.

Thanks, basically the same way as clearing a playfield. I'm no expert, but you should pay attention to a good spray pattern, a dust-free environment, a solid compressor, and descent safety gear. I'll spray each surface one side at a time, facing upward (just like you do a playfield). It adds a tremendous amount of time to the job, instead of spraying the entire cab in one shot. The upside of spraying a cabinet this way is reducing any chance of orange peel, gravity will smooth it out for you. Also, I don't wet sand the clear until after the 2nd coat...the 1st coat is still thin enough that there is a chance of scratching the decals if wet sanding after just the first coat.
I received a few PMs asking which type of clear I used, the PPG brand Shopline JC830 Clear & JH8380 Med Temp Hardener, with a little JR555 reducer (this is a CA low VOC clearcoat). As a package, should be under $150 for the material. No specific reason for this brand other than it was the best bang for the buck at my local auto paint shop. Your local guys might stock something different, but as long as it's a decent high quality clear, you should be good.

The opposite is also true when clearcoating cabinets decals (versus silk screened or painted).
A poor job, will make them look terrible.
If the decals peel, the cabinet is !#$@ed.
Choose wisely.
Durability the quality of the decals and adhesive is critical.

You can get a printer to install a glossy laminate over your decals before you install them. The lamination is heated onto the graphics and results in a nice shiny material. While adding clear can be done I do believe the lamination method is less time consuming and offers a similar end result.