There is a pin cab product sold by a Pinsider that is a laminate (temporary) covering for the cab sides and backbox. Some research here and you can find it if you are not already aware of it.

People definitely do it and I’m fixIng to do it on a WCS94 that I’m restoring. Will let you know how it turns out

I have a BOP 2.0 that had decals clear coated. It has a couple small runs but overall looks pretty sweet. Technically the clear isn’t supposed to bond well to the decal (from what I understand) but this doesn’t seem to stop folks. A clear coated decal has that JJP rascal look to it. Pretty sweet.

Clearcoating decals has no significant benefit. It makes people "feel good". This is not a stencil painted cabinet, where this concept orginated, based on the porous surfaces.

Essentially people are wasting money and time. Adhesion is poor especially on high glossy surfaces, and coating can crack. Normally cracks occur not from scratches but direct impacts, or around legs. As decals are not the same as traditional ink screening, if they peel, the clearcoat cracks, just like lifting old playfield inserts, they chip.

The best thing an owner can do is buy high quality glossy decals that are UV and scratch resistant, and apply them properly including removing old decals/silkscreen and priming the cabinet beforehand.

Clearcoats remain best used for playfields.
These are the reasons manufacturers do not spray cabinets with added paint style coatings, not just to avoid added cost.

A good silkscreened cabinet is extremely durable, but unfortunately most manufacturers already cost cut this BoM from many games, not just pinball, but arcade and redemption as well today.

Keep flipping.

Keep the game out of direct sunlight, use proper equipment and padding when moving games, properly tighten legs with the correct protectors, and ensure minimum spacing of 6 inches between backboxes if possible, 2 inches minimum to prevent scrapes from nudges.

Applying "laminates" to cabinets will turn the finish to matte, and there is no going back ever, unless it is the "cling" type, which also BTW can still remove decal ink after being left on for extended periods. People learn this mistake too late.

I've cleared a few cabinets with decals and haven't experienced anything like BK mentions above. I've only used Next Gen Decals and Two Part-Auto Clear (2PAC), so I can't speak for any other type of clear-coat and decals.

If done with care, the results can be awesome. The machine is tough as nails and looks like glass. The 2PAC allows the pin to sit next to a window without fear of fading, protects it from scratches, edges of the decals will never lift, and the colors are more vibrant.

In the unfortunate event the cabinet ever does get a good scratch, it can be buffed out. I'm not a professional and never cleared anything before this awful pinball hobby took over my free-time. It's not a simple or easy process and I'm still learning something new with each machine that gets done. It might not be worth it to everyone, but I plan on continuing to clear more cabs in the future.
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Very nice work. I'm sending out a cabinet to be cleared as well. If done properly the cabs look incredible.

Yep I've seen it. It looks spectacular.

Great comment (and photographic proof!) from somebody who's actually done this, instead of grandstanding pontifications unencumbered by experience

Looks great!
However i'm concerned you may see wrinkling if you don't install metal leg protectors. Or, better yet, remove the decal where the protectors would go, before clearing. Once legs are installed, I could see these wrinkling over time much like playfield posts on overlays that are cleared.

beautiful games!!!

To each their own. I agree with the Black Knight. I only use wax with no petroleum distillates or silicones on my cabinet decals.

Nice work, thanks for sharing

Very nice work but I don't think any clear coat is uv resistant, I'm almost certain the art will fade just the same cleared or not. I clear coat cabniets and playfields with Polycrylic and Spraymax 2K another 2 part clear coat system.

Yea, still use those metal leg protectors, but it's not about any wrinkling...more about cabinet dents from the legs. Once the clearcoat has enough time to cure, the surface is bar-top hard and wrinkles aren't a problem.

Not sure about Polycrylic or SprayMax2K, but auto-clear definitely has UV resistant properties. Most cars paint would be faded beyond belief if otherwise.

Yes, worked on it myself and it's not extremely difficult, just a lot of little things to pay attention to...plus having the right safety gear. Most of the stuff I learned from Vids playfield thread and some Eastwood automotive videos. After that, just trial and error...the way it's set-up now is very different than my first attempt. If you need any help, just shoot me a PM.

Just for shits and giggles, if its that hard put a pinball in your hand press it into the cabinet. you'll have a crater. If the clear is really hard it'll separate from the decal and/or crack the clear too.

My first attempt to clear a cabinet. Couldn’t be more pleased with this.

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Looks real nice, came out way better than my first attempt...good work!

Thanks man. I appreciate it .

I have a White Water myself and would love if it looked like yours! Awesome results!

Could you elaborate a bit more about your process? Do you do one layer only? Or multiple with sanding in between?

While you are at it seal the bottom of the cabinet.

I have used single pac clear not as hard as 2pac less likely to crack and peel but still hard enough to protect.

Not as toxic as 2pac.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html