(Topic ID: 52606)

Clear coating !!!


By PinDescabarian

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by beepnutz
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Would you re clear coat a new factory play field from Stern if you could?”

  • Yes 28 votes
    85%
  • No 5 votes
    15%

(33 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

#1 7 years ago

Can anybody give me some tips on clear coating a new Stern play field that already has a factory clear coat? Bought an extra X-Men LE play field for my machine that I want to hang up on my wall as an art piece until it needs to be changed. From what I understand the factory Clear is OK but can be improved. I have a friend who is a car painter who is going to do the work. He was asking the type of clear to use and for any extra pointers to prep and process for a solid clear coat finish to do a playfield. Any tips would be appreciated.

#2 7 years ago

If you keep your playfield waxed and good balls in the machine, it will never wear out in a HUO environment. So, no need to clear coat. Just my opinion.
Bob

#3 7 years ago

If one of your balls gets a nick on it, it can do a lot of damage before you might notice.

I clear new playfields.

It lets me become intimately familiar with the game upon reassembly and I have a protected playfield that looks like glass.

#4 7 years ago

Hey Vid...do I need to take off the Mylar to clear coat? My common sense says yes. What type of clear coat paint do you recommend? Any details would be appreciated.

#5 7 years ago

Yes, clear does not stick to Mylar very well, so it has to come off.

For a beginner, nothing is easier to lay down and get perfect than JC660

http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheets/PPG/Automotive/Shopline/JC660.pdf

#6 7 years ago

Would a guy who paints cars professionally x 10 years still be considered a beginner since it is a new median? If not what would you use to spray?

#7 7 years ago

If you painted cars for a month professionally, you are overqualified to clear playfields.

Plus you clear them flat on their backs, so no runs or drips!

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDescabarian:

If not what would you use to spray?

I've got some Devilbiss guns, but honestly, I've used the $10 Harbor Freight HVLP guns many times when away from my own shop and they work perfectly.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

For a beginner, nothing is easier to lay down and get perfect than JC660

Do you recommend another clear coat that may be better for someone that is a pro.

#10 7 years ago

Sometimes with old Ballys, the "heat' from the clear can react with the plastic of the inserts and make little spots. On those games, I mix the fastest hardener with the clear so it does not have time to react.

I also have some real Diamond Plate clear that I use.

But if you have never done a playfield before, stick with the PPG.

#11 7 years ago

Cool thanks Vid. One more question for you....Should I sand the playfields old clear off..to the top paint...what recommendations for sanding? Grit and what not?

#12 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDescabarian:

Cool thanks Vid. One more question for you....Should I sand the playfields old clear off..to the top paint...what recommendations for sanding? Grit and what not?

Don't even try sanding off the clear coat.

It's not a real clear coat like you are thinking, it's often just a layer of clear silkscreen over the last batch of ink.

Just lightly scuff up the surface with around 800 grit to give the new clear some "tooth"

#13 7 years ago

Fair warning, body shop car painters dela with a totally different medium, that is used as different as can be. I have redone many many many.
Most house painters also are not familiar with the process, but if you ask them, they will say no problem.
good luck.

#14 7 years ago

Im thinking of having my spare AC/DC PF cleared too. There is a guy in san jose who will clear my PF with automotive clear (ppg-2042). Anyone know how that is for a playfield? I am wondering how it will look with the large clear window?

#15 7 years ago

The next update to my Playfield Restoration Guide will be clear coating, so if you have any doubts in your mind, wait until you read all the details.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from denmark71:

I am wondering how it will look with the large clear window?

That is the 10000$ question...

Maybe mask it off and feather in.

Myself, I'd hate to put it under more clear in case it hazes or needs to be totally replaced one day.

#17 7 years ago

I used a Dupont Chroma Clear snap dry clear on a WH2O with the factory clear on....came out great.....

#18 7 years ago

If you need just clearcoating. I can bust it out for you with autoclear for $275 + shipping back. Takes about 1-2 week turnaround time for NOS stuff. Or non touchup fields.

#19 7 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

If you need just clearcoating. I can bust it out for you with autoclear for $275 + shipping back. Takes about 1-2 week turnaround time for NOS stuff. Or non touchup fields.

Neo does fantastic clear work! Well worth having a pro do your clear work IMHO!

Send it to neo and no more worries

#20 7 years ago

I used a automotive gloss clearcoat on some of my inserts that were bowed.I was told it was super strong and would not cloud some touched the paint and it lifted the paint. Should this be used at all on older painted playfields ?

#21 7 years ago

you can and it will be fine. But it will be shiny in those spots. But will hold up well. And if you ever want to restore it later, more clear can be cleared right over the top down the road.

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

If you need just clearcoating. I can bust it out for you with autoclear for $275 + shipping back. Takes about 1-2 week turnaround time for NOS stuff. Or non touchup fields.

Would the price above include the removal of mylar? Would I need to replace the mylar after it was clear coated?

#23 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDescabarian:

Would the price above include the removal of mylar? Would I need to replace the mylar after it was clear coated?

removing mylar is very easy. You can do it yourself in about 20 minutes.

Freeze spray removes the mylar
Goo-gone and flour trick for the sticky left behind.

You will not need mylar to be replaced after a proper clearcoat and home use.

#24 7 years ago

Cool thread. I read it again seconds after just to make sure it "locked" in my brain. I mean...really cool info for down the road.

vid1900. special thanks about the drip issue being way less risky for PF's since being sprayed flat/horizontal. After I thought about that comment a bit, it makes sense and helps takes some fear out of me trying this down the road.

Tx all you guys for some good, good, reference info!

#25 7 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The next update to my Playfield Restoration Guide will be clear coating, so if you have any doubts in your mind, wait until you read all the details.

Hey Vid. Thxs for the great info. I will probably wait for your guide on clear coat. Seems like more to it than I thought. Any thoughts on when you may put that information out?

#26 7 years ago

I'm working on the road, so I can't really spray in my hotel room (although I have a complete solder/rework station spread out over the desk in the room).

Hopefully it won't be too long. In the meantime if someone has questions, I'll keep answerin'.

#27 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinballdad:

vid1900. special thanks about the drip issue being way less risky for PF's since being sprayed flat/horizontal. After I thought about that comment a bit, it makes sense and helps takes some fear out of me trying this down the road.

Don't be afraid to practice on a crap playfield, or just a painted piece of plywood.

You will be pleasantly surprised on how much build you get in a single coat of clear (maybe 4x what a coat of poly builds), and how high of a gloss you can put on it (maybe 3x over poly).

Spraying coats 10 minutes apart does not suck either.....

#28 7 years ago
Quoted from PinDescabarian:

Would the price above include the removal of mylar? Would I need to replace the mylar after it was clear coated?

No. If you have full playfield mylar, that's extra. If it's just little square here or there, I don't charge for that. Once a playfield is cleared, there is no reason to need mylar ever again.

#29 7 years ago
Quoted from beepnutz:

If you keep your playfield waxed and good balls in the machine, it will never wear out in a HUO environment. So, no need to clear coat. Just my opinion.
Bob

Er, I have seen Stern playfields with wear where the ball disappears, after 200 plays. Some have more wear there than my BSD which has had 40000 plays!!!

#30 7 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Er, I have seen Stern playfields with wear where the ball disappears, after 200 plays. Some have more wear there than my BSD which has had 40000 plays!!!

All it takes is a nicked ball....

#31 7 years ago

stern also only throws down one layer of clear. Restored fields have like 4 by the time your done, so the chance of wearing in a home environment is slim to none.

#32 7 years ago

And people are paying $6000 - $10,000 for that kind of junk, glad I quit buying new after Spider-man.
I have a hard time believing that a new Stern with 200 plays is going to be more worn out than a Williams with 40,000 plays.
Just my opinion, and I've been in the hobby for about 20 years.

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