(Topic ID: 55129)

Cleaning large metal parts?

By lukerp

10 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by cal50
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 10 years ago

    Hey all,

    Quick question for anyone who happens to have a way of doing this. Is there any good way to clean larger metal parts, such as ramps or habitrails, short of elbow grease and time? All of the smaller stuff winds up in the tumbler, but the bigger parts seem to be a bit of a time suck. Thanks in advance; greatl appreciated.

    Luke

    #2 10 years ago

    depends on what you mean by clean? Just shining them up, just a rag and some good chrome polish should clean it up fairly quickly. If you have oxidized metal, some people use a sandblaster with a very soft media

    #3 10 years ago

    Hey,

    Kind what I thought. I may spray them down with citrus degreaser before I go to town...

    Luke

    #4 10 years ago

    For habitrails I use scotch brite pads(the big green ones work very good) and for wire forms I use never dull metal polish.

    #5 10 years ago

    The sand blaster makes things look awesome!

    image.jpgimage.jpg image.jpgimage.jpg

    #6 10 years ago

    Most sand blasters can be easily converted into Soda Blasters - for a much more gentle cleaning.

    So gentle you can use it to remove corrosion from circuit boards without lifting the traces.

    #7 10 years ago
    Quoted from lukerp:

    Hey all,
    Quick question for anyone who happens to have a way of doing this. Is there any good way to clean larger metal parts, such as ramps or habitrails, short of elbow grease and time? All of the smaller stuff winds up in the tumbler, but the bigger parts seem to be a bit of a time suck. Thanks in advance; greatl appreciated.
    Luke

    I spray them with Castrol Super Clean wait 5 minutes then rinse with warm water.

    #8 10 years ago

    I know it's supposed to be a plastic polish, but I find Novus 3 on a rag to be a great metal cleaner/polish. Not much elbow grease or time required. Rag comes out black, metal comes out shiny. And it's much less caustic on your skin than most products designed to clean metal.

    #9 10 years ago

    Bleech White for metal stuff. Scuzzy ramp / circuit boards go in the dish washer when the wife is away at a safe distance ( for me). Smaller stuff in the tumbler.

    #10 10 years ago
    Quoted from cal50:

    cuzzy ramp / circuit boards go in the dish washer when the wife is away at a safe distance ( for me)

    Wife talking to mother on phone: "I don't know, somethings up. He even unloaded the dishwasher today while I was at work - without me asking."

    #11 10 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Wife talking to mother on phone: "I don't know, somethings up. He even unloaded the dishwasher today while I was at work - without me asking."

    It not just the dishwasher~
    I was flattening plastics in the oven and got a really odd look when she opened the door.........

    #12 10 years ago

    Bench Grinder and polishing wheel is the best, but when being lazy magic eraser and white spirit works pretty well also.

    #13 10 years ago

    Hey,

    I've looked at soda/sand blasters before; if I had the air source to drive it, I might be more inclined to go that route. In regard to the SuperClean, how is that stuff relative to someone like Purple Power, which will eat plating on metal parts if it's on there too long?

    Luke

    #14 10 years ago
    Quoted from lukerp:

    I've looked at soda/sand blasters before; if I had the air source to drive it, I might be more inclined to go that route.

    Yes, any kind of media blasting requires a LOT of compressed air. I've tried doing it with 3 cfm and I spent more time waiting for the compressor to catch up than I did blasting. 8 or 10 cfm should work well.

    #15 10 years ago
    Quoted from lukerp:

    Hey,
    I've looked at soda/sand blasters before; if I had the air source to drive it, I might be more inclined to go that route. In regard to the SuperClean, how is that stuff relative to someone like Purple Power, which will eat plating on metal parts if it's on there too long?
    Luke

    I haven't had any problems with it on plastics or metal, it works almost instantly.

    #16 10 years ago
    Quoted from browne92:

    Yes, any kind of media blasting requires a LOT of compressed air. I've tried doing it with 3 cfm and I spent more time waiting for the compressor to catch up than I did blasting. 8 or 10 cfm should work well.

    I have a 14cfm and would prefer more air, most cabinets recommend at least 18 cfm, which starts to get expensive. If you are only doing small pin parts as opposed to rusty dirty car parts then you can put up with waiting for air.

    #17 10 years ago

    Match the blast nozzle diameter to the cfm output of the air compressor. Blasting anything will empty an air tank but using the correct nozzle will yield better results.

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