Someone will give you a more detailed response, but all I use to clean the playfield is novus 1. Novus 2 is a bit more abrasive and is only used for “deeper” dirt spots. If your machine is new you should only need novus 1 to clean it. As far as wax I’ve used blitz and it’s ok. I use turtle carnauba wax most of the time. A little goes a very long way with wax. I still have the first container of wax I bought I don’t even know how long ago.

Don’t over think it and don’t over do it. Doesn’t need cleaned all that often. Maybe every thousand games or so is plenty.

No worries. Let's go through it.

First, it is VERY rare that I use Naphtha on a game. I'll use Novus 1 or 2. Depending.

Novus 1 is a thin liquid (Spray the rag, NOT the game). It's nice for a quick cleanup. Have plenty of extra clean cloths as well, and switch them often. You don't want to grind in dirt, you are removing dirt.

Novus 2 is thicker. Not quite a paste, just a very thick liquid. Always shake the container well. Novus 2 is more abrasive. But it isn't really that abrasive. It will get off the thicker dirt layers. Again, on the rag, not the playfield. Always be careful of posts and edges of stuff. If Novus 2 (or wax) gets on a playfield post, you may not see it... until it dries. And there is nothing worse than looking at a clean game with these white toothpaste blotches all over the posts.

Be careful with Novus 2 on very old games and EMs with thin lacquer. You don't need to worry too much on Maiden, but on an old checked playfield, it will remove paint. You will experience it in this hobby eventually.

NO! Never use a wax with a cleaner in it. You are looking for a pure wax with nothing in it but wax. Mothers makes an awesome paste with nothing but wax, you should use that.

The problem with my saying that is others will disagree. They will say they have used wax with cleaners for 10 years without issue, and good for them. I like to know exactly what I'm putting on my game. Cleaners for cleaning, wax for wax.

Because you are new to maintaining pins, I'll say this one up front. Pins don't use lube, except in some small and obvious spots. Never get tempted to put grease in a flipper or something. A similar warning would be to never use WD-40 in a pinball machine, or any spray stuff. At best it turns into gum, and at worse there are still fumes when the game goes pop.

The first time cleaning a game can be a bit intimidating. And that is totally normal. My advice for that is to just do a quick wipedown first. Nothing too deep, just getting used to working on a game.

Balls. Replace them early, replace them often. If you ever notice a scratch or dent in a ball (which can happen as they hit metal), get rid of it. Not tomorrow, not one more game, right in the trash. Most of the time they can be cleaned quickly. And sometimes the polish marks can look like issues, so check with your hands. Any type of ball damage will chew a playfield over time.

Sorry this is so long. Welcome to an awesome hobby that keeps giving back fun. If you have questions, just let me know. If you hear the complete opposite of what I've said, just go with your gut.

I clean my pins often. A quick spray and wipe down every 100 plays and when the wax feels like it need a refresh a little goes a long way. I have sold some HUO games with 1500 plays where the shooter lane doesn't have a single mark or spot. Literally looks like it came out the box last week. Clean with a good non alcohol spray cleaner nothing harsh and use mothers wax with a micro fiber cloth. Stay away from Novus cleaners. These are used more for games that are in the wild and get 4k+ plays on them and need a good deep cleaning.

I still say you can clean too often. Every 100 games? Thats too much.

At the most basic it being a new home use machine here’s all you need to do…. Wipe playfield with a microfiber cloth and a little Novus 1 whenever you notice it’s getting dirty. That’s all you need to do for a long long time. It will be a couple years at least until everything is dirty enough where you need to even consider removing parts or polishing Ramps or would need Novus 2 or whatnot and you have plenty of time to learn about everything.

This is probably the best advice you’ll get and more important than waxing in my opinion. I know many people with home use stern games with thousands of plays that have never been waxed and still look like new. As long as your ensuring you are replacing your balls often and when signs of wear appear.

If you must absolutely wax, you need to use a 100% carnauba wax, which is harder to come by in Canada. Try p21s, but your eyes will go wide with sticker shock when you see how much a 100% carnauba wax costs. I don’t wax my newer games anymore, I give them an occasional wipe down with wizards mist and shine, sprayed onto a rag first, never directly to the play field. I find it works great! Believe this is the product jersey Jack recommends also for cleaning. Just my 2 cents, I’m sure you’ll continue to get lots of opinions.

Like most have said, Novus 1 for the occasional clean. I think always keeping clean is far better than waxing and pretending it's fine for a year is a better option. Just my personal preference. I do wax occasionally tho, maybe once a year.

If you wax, One Grand Blitz Wax is the choice for me. Real, 100% carnauba wax is as hard as a brick - so it will have an additive to make it pliable regardless of what they say. Last time I checked with One Grand Blitz Wax, they used bees wax as opposed to other additives to soften the carnauba. I'm no expert, but the bee's wax seems to be rather benign with respect to additives other companies use, according to many posts on the net.

From Griots Car Tips: "Exaggerated marketing and plain old misinformation have created a confusing bunch of car care assumptions. Many car care manufacturers advertise their waxes as being “100% Carnauba Wax.” We sure hope not! If what they were selling you was pure carnauba wax, it would be hard as a rock and come in brick or flake form. The pure carnauba would be too hard to apply to your paint (and would probably scratch it)." Link: https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/carnauba-wax/

DaveH mentioned replacing the balls - good advice. Some of the Stern balls I've replaced in pins are cratered under a eye piece, really bad actually. Replace with some good carbon steel ones. I don't automatically replace the balls if they are OK looking, but I'll buy a batch of carbon steel ones and just replace the all the balls in the pins all at once every year or two (we just occasionally play a few times a week) just because it's cheaper to buy in bulk and keeps me from having to remember what pin had the balls replaced.

To sum it up: Keep it clean and make sure the balls are in good shape. Don't over-think it.

Have fun w/IMDN, it's a great shooting pin!

Just to add, Naphtha isn't necessary just for a wipe-down and light cleaning.

It's usually only needed for a game that's been neglected for years and needs a total tear-down. Maiden is still a relatively new game, and I can't see it as being too necessary.

Alternate source for blitz if it helps: https://carcarespecialties.com/product/one-grand-blitz-carnauba-wax-12-oz-jar/

If you can't get blitz, some people use p21s wax instead. I think it's easier to obtain than blitz is.

From what I understand, Mothers wax doesn't last as long on the playfield before it needs to be re-applied.

When it comes to price, you get what you pay for.

Also, a jar of blitz can last a pretty long time before you use it all up.

Yeah, beeswax is just less hard than carnauba wax and has a lower melting point.

A popular ball supplier: https://ballbaron.com/

The balls are coated in oil (be sure to clean them before putting them in your game). If you buy a big batch of balls all at once, I'd recommend putting the spares in a small plastic bin of motor oil (a quart of whatever the cheapest oil is should work fine--you're not using it in an engine). While they will last a fairly long time like this, they're still exposed to air, and that sometimes starts affecting them after a couple years.

Gearboxes are the only place where grease might be found, but those are typically sealed. There's a few specific mechs on EM games as well, but that's it. Modern games use no lubricants, oil, or WD-40 anywhere in any mechs.

Simple... tiny bit of Mothers let it sit for 5 minutes then wax off with a different cloth. Done!!

To clean rubbers can just use a damp cloth ina pinch. Rubbing alcohol too. If you want a real good rubber cleaner that will clean any dirty rubber quickly check out Wildcat Rubber Cleaner. One bottle has lasted me like 15 years

https://www.pinballlife.com/wildcat-rc-88-rubber-cleaner.html

tagging along. good information!

I've tried the rubber cleaner from Titan, and it seems to work fine. But I'll likely just try some mild cleaner I have sitting around the house next time. Maybe try to do a comparison between the two at the same time. I do want to avoid harsh cleaners, so I'll have to give it some thought first.

Honestly I think the main thing with cleaning rubber is just a little moisture. Water, spit, Novus 1 etc. unless it’s like a heavily routed super filthy game you probably don’t need much special product. Home use clean games just some moisture.

Thanks for the post. I had to look that up, hadn't noticed or heard of it before. Looks like naphtha's in it?

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Yup, lighter fluid

https://pinballmedics.ca/

Has the one grand blitz wax.