Sounds like your end of stroke switch isn't set properly.

Rebuilding the flippers if they're old is going to help a lot more than cleaning the flipper switch will. Since they're high current switches, best way is probably with a flexstone or #443 dremel brush. Might be worth just replacing them as well as rebuilding the flippers though. Don't forget all the power has to go through the EOS switch as well as the cabinet switch.

gtbflip1 (resized).jpg

The flipper assembly on Surf Champ was the later linear design with the triangular plastic piece. It doesn't have the bakelite links and you won't get as much benefit from a total rebuild as compared to the older flipper design. Do make sure the return spring has not been replaced with a stiffer one and the plastic shaft at the innner end is not binding on the hole.

See: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2459&picno=46683&zoom=1

I would start by replacing the coil sleeve and cleaning/adjusting the End of Stroke (EOS) switch, or even replacing it entirely if the blades are wavy/mangled or the contact faces are exceptionally pitted. You want to adjust the EOS switch so that it makes solid contact when closed and opens no more than 1/8" when the flipper is fully up.

A flexfile should work to clean the flipper button switches or can use a fine metal file if they are really pitted.

Thanks for the specific info. I was just giving an overview of flipper wear that most all machines suffer from, and many people overlook.

Yes, Cody that was good basic information. I wasn't trying to put it down.

I had a Surfer once and the flipper assembly is very similar with (or identical to?) the ones installed on early System 1 machines. I rebuilt a Surfer and a Joker Poker with kits from PBR and saw little improvement in flipper power. IME, the biggest bang for the buck will come from replacing the coil sleeve, optimizing the EOS switch, add making sure that plastic shaft is not binding.

My friend has been working on his funland and actually bought the yellow dot flipper coils thinking his were just too weak for the game to be fun. I tipped the playfield up and looked at the end of stroke switches only to find that they were breaking shortly after the plunger started to pull in. I adjusted them so they open when the plunger is fully pulled in and now it feels like a different game. The yellow dot coils are back in the parts box and there isn't any more talk of switching to high tap to make the game fun.

So moral of the story, check those end of stroke switches.