(Topic ID: 137689)

Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    There are 2,210 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 45.
    #2101 12 months ago

    So figured this is where I would best get advice of how to proceed. I got a Freddy pin that's in some beat up shape. As you can see in the attached pic along most side lanes where the game has no mylar, the top is cracked. Lots of cracked appearance all over the lanes. The mylar is still ok, a couple ugly spots but it's there, you see ware at the edge of it by the slippers. I see folks often have to repaint that area.

    So what steps should I take to help clean and potentially fix up these rough spots?

    20230421_111702 (resized).jpg20230421_111702 (resized).jpg20230421_111710 (resized).jpg20230421_111710 (resized).jpg
    #2102 11 months ago

    Ok I feel dumb but I've been trying to get these inlane ball trails to go away and I don't know... maybe i have unrealistic expectations.

    One pin is a routed LOTR
    The other is a 1st owner GZ with 2k plays.

    I shook the shit out of the novus 2 bottle for several minutes. used a microfiber cloth and scrubbed the crap out of it. circles, back and forth. doesn't seem to be doing a whole lot. Maybe the LOTR looks -slightly- shinier on the "ball reachable" side of the trail, closer to the "ball unreachable" side, but not much.

    PXL_20230331_195800034.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20230331_195800034.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20230413_200155161 (resized).jpgPXL_20230413_200155161 (resized).jpg
    #2103 11 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Ok I feel dumb but I've been trying to get these inlane ball trails to go away and I don't know... maybe i have unrealistic expectations.

    One pin is a routed LOTR

    1. The area has to stay WET with Novus.

    2. It might take more pressure than you think.

    3. Paper towel or old 100% cotton tshirt/sock does fine, no need for fancy microfibers.

    4. There is a small chance that the trails have already cut all the way through the clearcoat (although unlikely)

    Pick an open area (like a couple inches above the flippers). Polish a straight line through the haze and see how much pressure it actually takes. Don't do a big area, just a single line with a back and forth motion.

    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    The other is a 1st owner GZ with 2k plays.

    Remove a flipper and try to polish a straight line through the ball trail (at a 90* intersection). Once you "get it" then go ahead and remove the ball trail entirely.

    If the Novus came from Amazon, smell it and make sure it's real. If ti does not have that **clay** smell, buy a new bottle @ walmart or motorcycle shop.

    #2104 11 months ago
    Quoted from PanzerKraken:

    So figured this is where I would best get advice of how to proceed. I got a Freddy pin that's in some beat up shape. As you can see in the attached pic along most side lanes where the game has no mylar, the top is cracked. Lots of cracked appearance all over the lanes. The mylar is still ok, a couple ugly spots but it's there, you see ware at the edge of it by the slippers. I see folks often have to repaint that area.
    So what steps should I take to help clean and potentially fix up these rough spots?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    That looks like it froze in a garage, or someone put a coat of water based varathane over the top.

    Either way, it probably needs a new topcoat, as no amount of cleaning or polishing will fix it.

    Wax and enjoy (until you are ready to do a new topcoat)

    #2105 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That looks like it froze in a garage, or someone put a coat of water based varathane over the top.
    Either way, it probably needs a new topcoat, as no amount of cleaning or polishing will fix it.
    Wax and enjoy (until you are ready to do a new topcoat)

    My Stargate and several other Gottlieb system 3 games have this same problem.

    The clear is stuck down firmly but has lost its flexibility (stretchability?) and is "crazing".

    It could be temperature or a lot ot things, or it could also just be cheap paint that's drying out...

    The wires in the harnesses also stick together as the insulation breaks down. Cheap insulation...

    If I cant get a new playfield, Ill sand it down and apply new clear.

    I think its the only way.

    #2106 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That looks like it froze in a garage, or someone put a coat of water based varathane over the top.
    Either way, it probably needs a new topcoat, as no amount of cleaning or polishing will fix it.
    Wax and enjoy (until you are ready to do a new topcoat)

    I don't know the game's history, got it long ago, it did look like there was some water damage to it at some point from marks inside the cabinet. Know lot of it had been restored, but it's always had this cracking all over the field. The mylar covered area of the main playfield looks fine, but lot of the lanes are like this. Perhaps laying down some more mylar to the cracked areas for now will also help with longevity?

    #2107 11 months ago
    Quoted from PanzerKraken:

    I don't know the game's history, got it long ago, it did look like there was some water damage to it at some point from marks inside the cabinet. Know lot of it had been restored, but it's always had this cracking all over the field. The mylar covered area of the main playfield looks fine, but lot of the lanes are like this. Perhaps laying down some more mylar to the cracked areas for now will also help with longevity?

    Are the cracked areas lifting or chipping?

    #2108 11 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Are the cracked areas lifting or chipping?

    No not getting any chips and they don't feel loose, just cracks so it seems more cosmetic than anything so far.

    #2109 11 months ago
    Quoted from PanzerKraken:

    No not getting any chips and they don't feel loose, just cracks so it seems more cosmetic than anything so far.

    If it's not flaking or lifting, I'd just keep it waxed and play it.

    The risk of mylar is that it could lift the ink when you try to remove it later for a real topcoat.

    -1
    #2110 11 months ago

    Ll

    Quoted from vid1900:

    If it's not flaking or lifting, I'd just keep it waxed and play it.
    The risk of mylar is that it could lift the ink when you try to remove it later for a real topcoat.

    Makes perfect sense.

    #2111 11 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Novus 1 is useless. Its not even a good cleaner, it just too gentle. It works about as well as distilled water.
    Its just window cleaner with a little wax in it.
    It might be good for cleaning motorcycle windshields or pinball plasitics, but thats about it.
    Sparkle glass cleaner is MUCH better as its ammonia free and can be used on anti-glare glass. You can use it on anything!
    Mist n shine is better (compared to novus 1) for a between waxing "touch up" and wipe down solution, it has more wax in it.
    Its commonly used to clean up fingerprints and dust after detailing cars, it wont remove the wax.

    Not sure where people get that info from. From what I know Novus 1 contains zero wax. Mist n shine definitely does not, it calls it out right in the marketing materials picture 4 “contains no wax, silicone, or petroleum solvents”

    Wizards Mist-N-Shine Professional Detailer - Multi-Use Glass Cleaner and Scratch Remover for Vehicles - Adds Gloss to Paint, Chrome and Glass - 22 oz Detail Spray - Made in USA https://a.co/d/gsnzCf8

    #2112 11 months ago
    Quoted from Sonics99:

    Not sure where people get that info from. From what I know Novus 1 contains zero wax. Mist n shine definitely does not, it calls it out right in the marketing materials picture 4 “contains no wax, silicone, or petroleum solvents”
    Wizards Mist-N-Shine Professional Detailer - Multi-Use Glass Cleaner and Scratch Remover for Vehicles - Adds Gloss to Paint, Chrome and Glass - 22 oz Detail Spray - Made in USA https://a.co/d/gsnzCf8

    Interesting.

    My experience is that Novus 1 is a gentle cleaner, but too gentle, it barely removes fingerprints. So, I consider it useless.

    Mist N Shine is a pretty good cleaner and buffs out easily without power tools. It doesnt seem to remove wax and leaves a glossy finish.

    All in all, Mist n shine works well for me on playfields and plastics.

    Sticky glass and weird residue is handled pretty good with Sparkle glass cleaner. Being ammonia free its safe to use on anti-glare glass.

    Other than that Wildcat RC-88 works really well on Latex Rubber and standup targets, or Naptha. But RC-88 is exceptional on rubber.

    #2113 11 months ago

    I do like mist n shine a lot. It does a great job for what it is between waxes.

    #2114 11 months ago

    Has anyone tried this stuff? 210 Plastic Cleaner Polish.
    Is it good on ramps?

    IMG_2285 (resized).jpegIMG_2285 (resized).jpeg
    #2115 11 months ago
    Quoted from Aladdin:

    Has anyone tried this stuff? 210 Plastic Cleaner Polish.
    Is it good on ramps?
    [quoted image]

    Probably similar to fog free. I use it on my motorcycle helmet visor.

    https://www.amazon.com/Free-Plus-Anti-Fog-Spray-Glasses/dp/B092F2D23S/ref=asc_df_B092F2D23S/

    #2116 11 months ago

    Got the foo machine and my only problem with waxing so far has been that the easy to reach places seem to be really only the middle. Unless there is a better way to apply it. But with my large hands, I can’t seem to get under or between much around the playfield to apply it properly. Just using a cloth or small waxing pad.

    #2117 11 months ago

    Noob question - do you ever tear down the whole playfield to properly clean and wax everything?

    #2118 11 months ago
    Quoted from aflamesfan:

    Noob question - do you ever tear down the whole playfield to properly clean and wax everything?

    Now really, unless its been badly neglected.

    Then you mostly just have to remove ramps and such, but not much more.
    Its not too bad. You can set them on a towel in the middle of the playfield without fully disconnecting any wires.
    Once they are out you can give them a good cleaning.

    Other than that, you can reach nearly everything for cleaning and even waxing with rags rubber banded onto the ends of wooden spoons.

    Or feed rolled up rags thru lanes etc.

    #2119 11 months ago
    Quoted from aflamesfan:

    Noob question - do you ever tear down the whole playfield to properly clean and wax everything?

    I did on my Power Play, but it's a pretty straightforward playfield. I will say it made getting to everything easy. But you have to be able to put it back together. Lots of pictures helps.

    #2120 11 months ago
    Quoted from aflamesfan:

    Noob question - do you ever tear down the whole playfield to properly clean and wax everything?

    In general I focus on the major wear areas, but it really is true that hard-to-reach places end up being where playfields wear consistently - nobody cleans them or waxes them because it’s more work than they want to get into.
    On older machines it’s really easy to just take off all the light shields and clean every nook and cranny, but of course as you get into the more complicated layouts with more ramps and wire forms, a good cleaning becomes more of a commitment.

    The first time I worked on an Indian Jones Pinball Adventure was pretty informative. The back end of that playfield was full of grime, almost like the junk you always find in the back of a pinball cabinet. Solid grit, dirt, plastic granules, the gamut. This on a game that had been playing decently on location. I found the same to be true when I worked on Whitewater, ST:TNG…these machines don’t get cleaned because people don’t want to put in the time.

    So, in the ordinary course of home use play, you’re probably fine putting a microfiber cloth on a stick and/or using automotive detailing brushes on your shop vac once in a while. But it’s also probably a pretty good idea to commit to a partial teardown once a year or so and really get the playfield clean. You can also do a way better job of waxing once you have all those obstacles out of the way - and you have the opportunity to inspect things for wear or cracks and replace parts before they become a problem.
    In an arcade setting I’d do this every 6 months. My take on it is, it’s just like home or car ownership; maintenance sucks and nobody wants to do it, but regular small bits of work prevent expensive big problems for presenting themselves out of the blue. (Please don’t ask to see my work van! Do as I say, not as I do!!! Lol)

    2 weeks later
    #2121 10 months ago
    Quoted from Aurich:

    Kids, if your balls are pitted, replace them!! No wax in the world is gonna save your game if you're flipping little rolling steel sandpaper weights around on it.
    [quoted image]

    Quoted from TomGWI:

    Where is that located?

    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    I think I heard that stern sent them a new playfield too. That is some insane wear on a new game.

    Just rolling through this old thread. I took this picture. It was at IOA arcade near the Marvel area. Not sure who's posting it on Facebook or claiming they got a new pf or even wtf they photoshopped a teddy bear into the pic. Oh well, just setting the record straight.

    Pinside_forum_2666046_559222 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_2666046_559222 (resized).jpg
    #2122 10 months ago
    Quoted from Jigs:

    Just rolling through this old thread. I took this picture. It was at IOA arcade near the Marvel area. Not sure who's posting it on Facebook or claiming they got a new pf or even wtf they photoshopped a teddy bear into the pic. Oh well, just setting the record straight.
    [quoted image]

    Can you post the original, full rez pics?

    #2123 10 months ago

    I'll have to search my old hard drives, but here's my initial pic I posted on pinside

    Pinside_forum_2785962_581143 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_2785962_581143 (resized).jpg
    #2124 10 months ago
    Quoted from Jigs:

    I'll have to search my old hard drives, but here's my initial pic I posted on pinside
    [quoted image]

    A little Novus and possibly a magic eraser, youll be fine...

    1 month later
    #2125 8 months ago

    The Blitz stuff seems to be out of stock everywhere. I could only find it on one site and they wanted $20+ just for shipping ($60+ total)! I gave up and order that W-41 Brazilian stuff that other's mentioned.

    #2126 8 months ago
    Quoted from Sackmonkey:

    The Blitz stuff seems to be out of stock everywhere. I could only find it on one site and they wanted $20+ just for shipping ($60+ total)! I gave up and order that W-41 Brazilian stuff that other's mentioned.

    P21S is also a good wax (silver can)

    https://www.amazon.com/New-P21S-100-Carnuba-6-2oz/dp/B00CI1D2HM/ref=asc_df_B00CI1D2HM/

    #2127 8 months ago

    Can Sprayaway glass cleaner be safely used to clean PDI non glare glass?

    #2128 8 months ago
    Quoted from in2kiss:

    Can Sprayaway glass cleaner be safely used to clean PDI non glare glass?

    Yes, they say its ammonia free.

    Sprayaway and Sparkle are both reported to be safe.

    The cleaner MUST be ammonia free.

    Some cans of Sprayaway say "ammonia-free" right on the front of the can.

    I would use those.

    Personally I use Sparkle. Its a good glass cleaner as well as a good cleaner for plastics if sprayed on a paper towel.

    I even wipe down playfields with it. But I dont "pour it on", just light sprays and dried with a paper towel.

    Both are available online or at home depot.

    #2129 8 months ago

    Long time player, first time owner. Go easy on me here.

    I apologize if this was addressed earlier in the thread, but I haven’t found a recommendation for how to clean figures/toys on the playfield. Any suggestions?

    #2130 8 months ago
    Quoted from KidDynamite:

    Long time player, first time owner. Go easy on me here.
    I apologize if this was addressed earlier in the thread, but I haven’t found a recommendation for how to clean figures/toys on the playfield. Any suggestions?

    Sparkle and a paper towel.

    #2131 8 months ago

    Thanks for the suggestion, but looks like there are multiple products called “Sparkle.” I’m not sure which one you’re recommending.

    #2132 8 months ago

    Google sparkle glass cleaner, it’s not that complicated.

    It says ammonia free right on the label.

    #2133 8 months ago
    Quoted from Black_Knight:

    Google sparkle glass cleaner, it’s not that complicated.
    It says ammonia free right on the label.

    Yeah, I now see that the same poster earlier posted in response to someone’s glare-free glass recommendation and he happens to mention using it on plastics, but I initially browsed over that because I was looking more for discussion about painted toys, and the term “plastics” I thought more implied the type with clear surfaces that aren’t painted. I have some Sprayaway handy, I wonder if that’s also safe on painted toys like Sparkle supposedly is.

    #2134 8 months ago

    If something is painted plastic, I'd not be just randomly spraying cleaners on it

    Is dirt stuck to it, or can it be dusted off with a paint brush?

    #2135 8 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If something is painted plastic, I'd not be just randomly spraying cleaners on it
    Is dirt stuck to it, or can it be dusted off with a paint brush?

    I too am nervous about chemicals on the painted figures, which is why I haven’t tried any yet. The grime is holding onto the figures pretty good. I tried a dry pass with a microfiber towel with no success. Then tried a dampened microfiber with little to no improvement. Not even sure how a couple of the figures ended up grimy, but they are.

    #2136 8 months ago
    Quoted from KidDynamite:

    I too was nervous about using chemicals on the toys, which is why I haven’t tried any yet. The grime is holding onto the figures pretty good. I tried a dry pass with a microfiber towel with no success. Then tried a dampened microfiber with little to no improvement. Not even sure how a couple of the figures ended up grimy, but they are.

    #2137 8 months ago

    If the dirt is stuck, try Naphtha on the backside.

    Almost always safe for painted surfaces

    #2138 8 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    If the dirt is stuck, try Naphtha on the backside.
    Almost always safe for painted surfaces

    Thanks, vid. I’ll give it a try.

    2 weeks later
    #2139 8 months ago

    Any other tips for getting stubborn ball trails out? Tried keeping it wet with novus 2 for a bit - still there. Also seems like a bunch of little tiny scratches on the playfield - not really noticeable though by naked eye.

    IMG_1833 (resized).jpegIMG_1833 (resized).jpegIMG_1834 (resized).jpegIMG_1834 (resized).jpeg
    #2140 8 months ago

    Put some Novus2 on a paper towel.

    Rub back and forth in the same couple inch spot, keeping it wet.

    Wipe off with clean paper towel.

    Spot should be shiny.

    Wax to protect.

    (You don't even have to polish out all the little scratches, just keep it waxed and it will be fine)

    #2141 7 months ago

    Does anyone have tips for cleaning the hard to reach places on a playfield, under ramps, nooks and crannies? I read somewhere wrap a microfiber cloth around the end of a paint stick, perhaps affix the cloth with a rubber band then soak the cloth with Naptha? Thx.

    #2142 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinDeadHead:

    Does anyone have tips for cleaning the hard to reach places on a playfield, under ramps, nooks and crannies? I read somewhere wrap a microfiber cloth around the end of a paint stick, perhaps affix the cloth with a rubber band then soak the cloth with Naptha? Thx.

    Chop sticks, bent wooden spoons, anything works.

    #2143 7 months ago
    Quoted from PinDeadHead:

    Does anyone have tips for cleaning the hard to reach places on a playfield, under ramps, nooks and crannies? I read somewhere wrap a microfiber cloth around the end of a paint stick, perhaps affix the cloth with a rubber band then soak the cloth with Naptha? Thx.

    Someone on the market sells a flex head 3d printed cleaning tool:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1465-3dgremlin/07729-pinball-cleaning-tool

    I just picked one up, but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

    #2144 7 months ago

    vid1900

    Thanks for these guides.

    I have playfields that are hazy on The Shadow (94) and Family Guy (07). I'm guessing wax on wax, or no good cleaning practices over time.

    I'm looking to get into your procedures here, and from my understanding the basics are vacuum, naptha, wax.

    None of my local hardware guys have naptha. Gallons of it are like $40. Is there a substitute here for modern times (as this thread is OLD lol)? Or should I be expecting to pay that.

    I had been told to use Simple Green as a mechanism to clean the field. Is there any place for this? Or is the new process moving forward for me: Vacuum, Naptha, Wax annually. Then Vacuum and Wax every 3-4 months? What if it's dirty, is that when the Novus 1 comes in? Or am I using Naptha for spot cleaning and then rewaxing (basically Vacuum, Naptha (full cleaning annually and spot cleaning as needed), Wax?

    Thanks!

    #2145 7 months ago
    Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:

    None of my local hardware guys have naptha. Gallons of it are like $40. Is there a substitute here for modern times (as this thread is OLD lol)? Or should I be expecting to pay that.

    This here's your naptha.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #2146 7 months ago
    Quoted from KidDynamite:

    I too am nervous about chemicals on the painted figures, which is why I haven’t tried any yet. The grime is holding onto the figures pretty good. I tried a dry pass with a microfiber towel with no success. Then tried a dampened microfiber with little to no improvement. Not even sure how a couple of the figures ended up grimy, but they are.

    Pull the figures and gently scrub them in a bath of warm soapy water like the restoration YouTubers do.

    #2147 7 months ago
    Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:

    None of my local hardware guys have naptha. Gallons of it are like $40. Is there a substitute here for modern times (as this thread is OLD lol)? Or should I be expecting to pay that.

    As stated by somebody else, lighter fluid is naphtha, but ounce for ounce is also a lot more expensive than $40/gallon.

    Coleman Fuel (aka "white gas") is also pure naphtha, and around here is about $20 per gallon.

    6000200939221-1075093065 (resized).jpeg6000200939221-1075093065 (resized).jpeg

    Where are you located? I am in the Midwest US and naphtha is very cheap and easy to obtain at any hardware, auto parts, or paint store by the quart. Most of these places will do a price match. Do a Google shopping search for your own zip code...

    • Menard's - $6 / quart (cheaper than lighter fluid)

    https://www.menards.com/main/paint/solvents-cleaners-removers/thinners-solvents/klean-strip-reg-varnish-maker-painters-naphtha-1-qt/qvm46/p-1444424267787-c-19345.htm

    • Advance Auto Parts - $11 / quart

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/klean-strip-vm-p-naphtha-quart-qvm46/11458179-P?searchTerm=naphtha

    • Tractor Supply - $11 / quart

    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/klean-strip-vm-p-naptha-quart

    • Do It Best - $14 / quart

    https://www.doitbest.com/shop/paint-and-painting-supplies/cleaners-thinners-and-solvents/paint-thinners-mineral-spirits-and-turpentine/naphtha/sunnyside-1-quart-naphtha?SKU=785911

    • Farm & Fleet - $18 / gallon

    https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/290461-klean-strip-vm-and-p-naphtha-paint-thinner.html

    • Lowe's - $20 /gallon

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klean-Strip-128-fl-oz-Fast-to-Dissolve-Naphtha/5014114053

    • Ace - $20 / gallon (same price as Coleman fuel at Ace)

    https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/chemicals-and-cleaners/paint-thinners-and-solvents/1438563

    • Home Depot - $24 /gallon

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Varnish-Maker-and-Painter-s-Naphtha-GVM46/205157925

    ---------

    If all else fails, naphtha (camp fuel) is $15 / quart on Amazon.

    https://a.co/d/84k0UXo

    #2148 7 months ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    As stated by somebody else, lighter fluid is naphtha, but ounce for ounce is also a lot more expensive than $40/gallon.
    Coleman Fuel is also pure naphtha... aka, "white gas"..., and around here is about $20 per gallon.
    [quoted image]
    Where are you located? I am in the Midwest US and naphtha is very cheap and easy to obtain at any hardware, auto parts, or paint store by the quart. Most of these places will do a price match. Do a Google shopping search for your own zip code...
    • Menard's - $6 / quart (cheaper than lighter fluid)
    https://www.menards.com/main/paint/solvents-cleaners-removers/thinners-solvents/klean-strip-reg-varnish-maker-painters-naphtha-1-qt/qvm46/p-1444424267787-c-19345.htm
    • Advance Auto Parts - $11 / quart
    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/klean-strip-vm-p-naphtha-quart-qvm46/11458179-P?searchTerm=naphtha
    • Tractor Supply - $11 / quart
    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/klean-strip-vm-p-naptha-quart
    • Do It Best - $14 / quart
    https://www.doitbest.com/shop/paint-and-painting-supplies/cleaners-thinners-and-solvents/paint-thinners-mineral-spirits-and-turpentine/naphtha/sunnyside-1-quart-naphtha?SKU=785911
    • Farm & Fleet - $18 / gallon
    https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/290461-klean-strip-vm-and-p-naphtha-paint-thinner.html
    • Lowe's - $20 /gallon
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Klean-Strip-128-fl-oz-Fast-to-Dissolve-Naphtha/5014114053
    • Ace - $20 / gallon (same price as Coleman fuel at Ace)
    https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/chemicals-and-cleaners/paint-thinners-and-solvents/1438563
    • Home Depot - $24 /gallon
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Varnish-Maker-and-Painter-s-Naphtha-GVM46/205157925
    ---------
    If all else fails, naphtha (camp fuel) is $15 / quart on Amazon.
    https://a.co/d/84k0UXo

    I found it at home Depot and pretty inexpensive at the time (3 years ago or so)

    #2149 7 months ago

    OK i dampened a rag with naphtha (vmp) then applied a little pressure to clean off the playfield of my shadow i just picked up from HUO for 25 years. I’m unsure if/when this thing was last cleaned. or if it was done ‘correctly’.

    i then used the p21s wax as blitz is n/a for me. applied 1/8 tsp and circular motion to areas. waited about 15 before it was dry then lightly wiped it off. looks like i may have used too much, or at least need to clean the star posts.

    that being said, my lower playfield by the flippers are concerning me.

    if you look at this picture, in the inlane there is a clear ball trail line and two different looks to the playfield. where the ball cant touch it’s shiny, above it all the way up to the inserts and around the slings it’s hazy.

    the playfield above this center/business area looks great.

    is there a fix here? did i not use enough pressure or time w the naptha?

    thanks!

    IMG_2698 (resized).jpegIMG_2698 (resized).jpeg
    #2150 7 months ago

    That looks alot like a Mylar film has been applied. Can you feel or see an edge anywhere? If it is Mylar then there is really nothing you can do unless you are up for a polishing procedure, something I've never really been successful with. And I don't recommend attempting to remove it, that is a whole messy process that is more risk than it's worth for that beautiful HUO playfield.

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