(Topic ID: 137689)

Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide

By vid1900

8 years ago


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    There are 2,197 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 44.
    #1901 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    That happens. Try to vacuum them up. For what it is worth, I find I get fewer flakes by using P21S than Blitz.

    I have both waxes too.

    Blitz is great for the money but I prefer the P21S silver can. Way less wax dandruff.

    Vacuuming solves the dandruff problem or blow out with an electric air duster:

    https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Airrow-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer/dp/B00SI67YRU/ref=sxts_b2b_sx_reorder

    1 week later
    #1902 3 years ago

    There is a lot of information to digest for someone like me that has never cleaned and waxed a playfield, looking for guidance.

    Can I get a cliff notes version, or a check of my plan before I do my 1st clean and wax on a New Stern PF. It has about 200 games on it right now.

    I have purchased: Klean Strip Naphtha VM&P, Blitz 1G wax, Novus 1,
    Rookie mistake- before I found this thread I bought Game Room Guys clean and wax (liquid) that I will not use after reading the post in this thread.

    1) Vacuum to remove dust and loose dirt
    2) Wipe PF with Naphtha (Microfiber towel)
    3) Apply thin coat of Blitz
    4) Buff the wax after it dries
    5) Add new balls
    6) Play a few games

    Thanks!

    #1903 3 years ago
    Quoted from MWhit:

    There is a lot of information to digest for someone like me that has never cleaned and waxed a playfield, looking for guidance.
    Can I get a cliff notes version, or a check of my plan before I do my 1st clean and wax on a New Stern PF. It has about 200 games on it right now.
    I have purchased: Klean Strip Naphtha VM&P, Blitz 1G wax, Novus 1,
    Rookie mistake- before I found this thread I bought Game Room Guys clean and wax (liquid) that I will not use after reading the post in this thread.
    1) Vacuum to remove dust and loose dirt
    2) Wipe PF with Naphtha (Microfiber towel)
    3) Apply thin coat of Blitz
    4) Buff the wax after it dries
    5) Add new balls
    6) Play a few games
    Thanks!

    I think that is a good plan except for changing the balls, seems a bit premature? maybe just inspect them and if they do not have golf ball dimples nor scratches just use them for another 200 games and re-inspect. I am new too so do not quote me on any on that but that is my interpretation as I have read this thread as well and I think it is recommended to replace balls every 500 games or earlier if they show wear.

    #1904 3 years ago

    I always use new balls but I'm sure you can get just as many people that use Sterns.

    #1905 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I think that is a good plan except for changing the balls, seems a bit premature? maybe just inspect them and if they do not have golf ball dimples nor scratches just use them for another 200 games and re-inspect. I am new too so do not quote me on any on that but that is my interpretation as I have read this thread as well and I think it is recommended to replace balls every 500 games or earlier if they show wear.

    On multiball intense games (JJP and modern games), I see substantial wear at about 350 plays if the players are good.

    Other games that arent so multiball dependent (80's-early 90's) I see wear at about 500 plays.

    #1906 3 years ago
    Quoted from Vermont:

    So I have a new TMNT Premium and I am guessing I did not clean the balls well enough before firing everything up; I now have gray lines from (I'm assuming) the oil residue from the balls.

    that's from all the black metallic dust the cheap flipper coil stops are producing. you can probably reduce this dust and keep your whole machine cleaner by replacing with a better quality stop; i'm sure there's a thread somewhere that goes into deep detail about which are the best to buy.

    #1907 3 years ago

    Cleaning went pretty good I think and the machine play fast.
    I do have one line that naptha or novus 1 will not get out, maybe it is etched into the topcoat or it was there from the factory and I didn't notice until today. I plan to clean every 200-250 plays.

    20210131_175015 (resized).jpg20210131_175015 (resized).jpg
    #1908 3 years ago
    Quoted from MWhit:

    I do have one line that naptha or novus 1 will not get out, maybe it is etched into the topcoat or it was there from the factory and I didn't notice until today. [quoted image]

    It looks like it's from factory ink

    Don't worry about it

    #1909 3 years ago
    Quoted from MWhit:

    Cleaning went pretty good I think and the machine play fast.
    I do have one line that naptha or novus 1 will not get out, maybe it is etched into the topcoat or it was there from the factory and I didn't notice until today. I plan to clean every 200-250 plays.[quoted image]

    looks like a reflection

    #1910 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    looks like a reflection

    Nah, I agree with Vid, it looks like a string of ink off of the silk screen process that wasn't caught.

    1 month later
    #1911 3 years ago

    Newbie (to waxing) question: I just opened a fresh jar of Blitz! and found that the wax inside has shrunk (no longer touches the sides, and separated from the bottom of the jar) significantly. Also, while the bottom still has spots of "creamy" wax, the top and most of the middle appears completely dried out. This jar is new but has been sitting next to my machines, all of which have been untouched for 3 years). Is this normal for Carnauba Wax or has it "Gone Bad"?

    #1912 3 years ago

    Just use your fingers and rub around the top to warm it up and make it ready to wax.
    I don;t care for Blitz, but it's fine.

    #1913 3 years ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Just use your fingers and rub around the top to warm it up and make it ready to wax.
    I don;t care for Blitz, but it's fine.

    Thanks! What would you suggest instead of Blitz?

    #1914 3 years ago
    Quoted from SuperHomer:

    Thanks! What would you suggest instead of Blitz?

    I prefer P21S. A little less residue after you wax. But honestly, Blitz is fine, and you’ll still get good results with it.

    #1915 3 years ago

    Yeah p21s here but no reason to throw away monies with your Blitz.

    #1916 3 years ago

    Do I need to wax the PF on a brand new game right out of the box? Or wait for XX plays etc?

    #1917 3 years ago

    You don't ever need to wax one, but might as well do it right out of the box

    #1918 3 years ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    You don't ever need to wax one, but might as well do it right out of the box

    Or enjoy it for a week, and then wax.

    #1919 3 years ago
    Quoted from Morgoth00:

    Do I need to wax the PF on a brand new game right out of the box? Or wait for XX plays etc?

    I always wax what I can easily reach on all NIB games.

    It makes me feel better and helps me get to know the game.

    #1920 3 years ago

    Honestly, it’s a good thing to wax a NIB game. Waxing helps protect the clear from micro scratches, though they are a bit inevitable in any case. And, you would rather have a ball wear down wax than the clear. However, you needn’t worry about doing it right away. I usually enjoy my game for a bit without worrying. But somewhere between the first and third weekend of ownership, I find time to wax.

    #1921 3 years ago

    Wax new games immediately, replace factory balls immediately

    #1922 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Wax new games immediately, replace factory balls immediately

    Brand new balls can be a little scratchy, I generally tumble them for a couple days, then put them in a vacuum bag.

    The Flitz additive helps keep them from rusting

    #1923 3 years ago

    I always buy the "super shiny" balls that make the OEM ones look like sandpaper

    I de-oil them with brake cleaner, before they contaminate the entire machine

    crc-car-cleaners-chemicals-05089-64_1000 (resized).jpgcrc-car-cleaners-chemicals-05089-64_1000 (resized).jpg
    #1924 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I always buy the "super shiny" balls that make the OEM ones look like sandpaper
    I de-oil them with brake cleaner, before they contaminate the entire machine[quoted image]

    nice Vid...I wax my balls constantly!

    #1925 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Wax new games immediately, replace factory balls immediately

    Newbie question-is there any special prep other than a vacuum and cloth wipe down I should do before a waxing? I have a nib Stern that I've had for about a month and I'm getting ready for my first clean and wax.

    Also where do you get these "super shiny" balls you speak of?

    Thanks for creating this thread, super helpful for us new to the hobby. Cheers!

    #1926 3 years ago
    Quoted from Flancrest_ent:Newbie question-is there any special prep other than a vacuum and cloth wipe down I should do before a waxing? I have a nib Stern that I've had for about a month and I'm getting ready for my first clean and wax.

    Nothing special, vac and wax.

    Quoted from Flancrest_ent:

    Also where do you get these "super shiny" balls you speak of?

    https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=70

    #1927 3 years ago

    For those of us in California: whats a decent alternative to Naphtha?

    #1928 3 years ago
    Quoted from JediMcMuffin:

    For those of us in California: whats a decent alternative to Naphtha?

    Can you not buy lighter fluid in Cali?

    #1930 3 years ago

    Thank you, perhaps Woodcraft in San Diego has some. I also noticed nobody responded to the guy using Honda pro cleaner, I used to use that on motorcycle for years to both clean and polish

    #1931 3 years ago

    So how would you attack this? Hasn't been touched in at least 10 years. Not sure if it is just dirt or wear or both. Naptha wipe and then just blitz over it?

    20210311_131719 (resized).jpg20210311_131719 (resized).jpg
    #1932 3 years ago

    Yep, clean with naphtha, then wax.

    Replace any old rubber first

    #1933 3 years ago
    Quoted from Morgoth00:

    So how would you attack this? Hasn't been touched in at least 10 years. Not sure if it is just dirt or wear or both. Naptha wipe and then just blitz over it?
    [quoted image]

    I had a machine that looked like that. A very clear delineation in the clear coat from the ball play area vs. the untouched area. That foggy clear coat is years of microscratches from imperfect balls. And yes, there is probably a good layer of filth on top of that. My recommendation for a good “shop” without tearing down the entire playfield:

    1. Buy a good set of cleaning and buffing pads for a cordless drill, such as these:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DFL315F/ref=redir_mobile_desktop

    2. Buy the complete set of Novus 1, 2, and 3. Also buy a canister of Blitz.

    (Optional - buy a new set of rubbers)

    3. Remove any components that are relatively easy to remove and don’t involve a complicated and time consuming process. Things like ramps rubbers and plastics. This will expose most of the playfield area and allow easy access to clean all of the heavy wear areas.

    4. Start with Novus 3 using a sponge buffing pad. Work it a little at a time to see what kind of progress you are making. This will give you a guide on how much time you need to work the product to get the results you are seeking. Once you work the whole playfield with Novus 3, repeat with Novus 2, then finish with Novus 1. If you have any questions or concerns, call the number on the back of the Novus bottles. I did, and the tech support was great. The guy was highly knowledgeable about the products and was very familiar with pinball enthusiasts using their products.

    5. Use the cloth buffing pads and wax with Blitz. Hand wipe the playfield with soft cotton. I recommend repeating this process - double wax, to protect your hard work and playfield.

    6. Since you already have a lot of the playfield taken apart, use the opportunity to clean all of the components you removed, like the ramps and plastics. If you ordered the optional rubbers above, reinstall those with the cleaned up components.

    7. Buy new balls from Ball Baron.

    Good luck! It’s a little bit of work, but you will be pleased with the results!

    #1934 3 years ago

    What can i use to remove scratches in my glass?

    #1935 3 years ago
    Quoted from bent98:

    What can i use to remove scratches in my glass?

    Glasswax or new glass?

    ///Rich

    #1936 3 years ago

    it was new glass. i had two sheets stacked on top of each other and one got scratched in the packaging.

    #1937 3 years ago
    Quoted from bent98:

    it was new glass. i had two sheets stacked on top of each other and one got scratched in the packaging.

    Extremely time consuming to remove scratches from glass.

    Buying tempered 3/16" glass from a local glass company is cheap and easy.

    1 week later
    #1938 3 years ago

    Has anyone tried "Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions" on your playfield?

    #1939 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Extremely time consuming to remove scratches from glass.
    Buying tempered 3/16" glass from a local glass company is cheap and easy.

    I know nothing about glass, and replacement was my first thought.. Use the scratched glass to make a table out of an old playfield?

    #1940 3 years ago
    Quoted from scampcamp:

    Has anyone tried "Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions" on your playfield?

    Isnt turtle wax the cheap stuff? I would go by the recommendations in this thread.

    EDIT, I checked out this product online and people with cars seem to like it, partially because its cheaper than the competition. Im staying with the tried and true.

    #1941 3 years ago
    Quoted from Roostking:

    Isnt turtle wax the cheap stuff? I would go by the recommendations in this thread.
    EDIT, I checked out this product online and people with cars seem to like it, partially because its cheaper than the competition. Im staying with the tried and true.

    Use blitz or p21s silver can.

    #1942 3 years ago

    I use blitz myself...

    3 weeks later
    #1943 2 years ago
    Quoted from MWhit:

    There is a lot of information to digest for someone like me that has never cleaned and waxed a playfield, looking for guidance.
    Can I get a cliff notes version, or a check of my plan before I do my 1st clean and wax on a New Stern PF.
    1) Vacuum to remove dust and loose dirt
    2) Wipe PF with Naphtha (Microfiber towel)
    3) Apply thin coat of Blitz
    4) Buff the wax after it dries
    5) Add new balls
    6) Play a few games
    Thanks!

    I'm going to copy MWhit here for cliff notes except I'll be using a different cleaner/polisher. I too have my first pinball but mine is an EM from 1975 (Bow and Arrow and we think the game is a lot of fun). I've read as much of this forum as I can and honestly all the cleaning/polishing recommendations are getting a bit blurry.

    VID1900 mentioned in the beginning posts that not all pinball machines are created the same. That is easy to understand and logical. I purchased Wildcat #125 to clean & polish my playfield because that's what the manufacturer endorsed. It's a Bally machine so I thought I should follow Bally's instructions. I'm performing my first cleaning today so I'm excited about the potential results.

    #1944 2 years ago

    How frequently should EM and early SS games (no multiballs) be cleaned and waxed? It’s been a while and they still play well. I was going to leave well enough alone until I caught up on this discussion.

    #1945 2 years ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    How frequently should EM and early SS games (no multiballs) be cleaned and waxed? It’s been a while and they still play well. I was going to leave well enough alone until I caught up on this discussion.

    Drag your fingertips across the wood in front of the flippers.

    When it no longer feels slippery, time to re wax

    #1946 2 years ago

    Easy. Thanks.

    2 months later
    #1947 2 years ago
    Quoted from scampcamp:

    Has anyone tried "Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions" on your playfield?

    I'd be a bit concerned about the solvents included in a ceramic wax. Looking at the SDS for their spray on hybrid, it's like 94% water, 5% Polydimethylsiloxane, and 1% IPA, and supposed to be applied to a wet surface.

    IMO, stick with 100% carnauba wax. If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

    #1948 2 years ago
    Quoted from Flipstream:

    I'd be a bit concerned about the solvents included in a ceramic wax. Looking at the SDS for their spray on hybrid, it's like 94% water, 5% Polydimethylsiloxane, and 1% IPA, and supposed to be applied to a wet surface.
    IMO, stick with 100% carnauba wax. If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

    The only IPA I want near my machine is in a pint glass! Cheers!

    #1949 2 years ago
    Quoted from Flipstream:

    I'd be a bit concerned about the solvents included in a ceramic wax. Looking at the SDS for their spray on hybrid, it's like 94% water, 5% Polydimethylsiloxane, and 1% IPA, and supposed to be applied to a wet surface.
    IMO, stick with 100% carnauba wax. If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

    Not to get too technical and at the risk of restating points made earlier, 100% carnauba is very hard and could never be applied to a pinball machine. Commercial products are softened by the addition of solvents, petroleum distillates and oils.

    #1950 2 years ago
    Quoted from Bamaro:

    100% carnauba is very hard and could never be applied to a pinball machine.

    See the key post in this thread regarding the great pretenders: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide/page/2#post-2657083

    There are 2,197 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 44.

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