(Topic ID: 137689)

Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

3 years ago



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    #1501 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Excellent!
    It doesn't sound like you applied any additional wax or removed what was there from the factory as I understand there is some. Apparently people like the circle applicators that you would use on your car and it makes a lot of sense to me and easily obtainable through Amazon.
    Did you inspect or immediately replace the balls that came with the machine?
    Also, I'm sorta hung up on this "sacrificial layer" people claim after waxing. Is that actual fact? I mean, it was my understanding that this is essentially smoothing out any "rough" areas and essentially the rest of the wax is picked up, but as vid says, you can actually "feel" the wax with your finger so it must be true?
    I'll definitely have to check out the other thread that you provided for Houdini. That's awesome!
    Well...back to reading for now I guess. haha

    I'm going to do my first wax in a day or two. And yeah, I bought some sponges from Amazon that were recommended.

    I had my friend give the balls a quick rub in the inside of a hoodie, but I'm not really sure if I should clean them last that. I know pinballinreno suggested some different fluids for cleaning, and I'd assume using a microfiber towel would work great in this instances.

    But yeah, just look up my profile, and see my last week or so of postings. I asked many of the same questions you have on your mind.

    I'm waiting for my Cliffy Protectors before playing much more, post wax. That's another subject/to do list, entirely, haha!

    #1502 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    I'm going to do my first wax in a day or two. And yeah, I bought some sponges from Amazon that were recommended.
    I had my friend give the balls a quick rub in the inside of a hoodie, but I'm not really sure if I should clean them last that. I know pinballinreno suggested some different fluids for cleaning, and I'd assume using a microfiber towel would work great in this instances.
    But yeah, just look up my profile, and see my last week or so of postings. I asked many of the same questions you have on your mind.
    I'm waiting for my Cliffy Protectors before playing much more, post wax. That's another subject/to do list, entirely, haha!

    Sounds good. I think I largely got as much out of this thread as I'm going to. The Wizards Mist-N-Shine seems excellent and pinballinreno seems to really like it as well. The ongoing debate whether to wax or not became interesting when mrgregb123 got involved and pretty much said he didn't see a purpose.

    I'm still trying to get caught up on some of the terminology going on around here, the trough, the apron, ball scoop, etc haha ,, but I'm sure it will come in time.

    So I guess the BIGGEST question is do I wax this thing as soon as I get it and according to vid1900 ... yea I "should".. whew.

    Saw something about the CGCs, JJPs, clearcoat chipping "easily". That's umm...VERY concerning. I hope like hell that does not happen.

    vid1900 might actually be against using Mist-N-shine as I believe it contains wax and that would technically classify it as a "spray or liquid? IDK and honestly I was a little surprised that Simple Green is NOT okay for the playfield? I know for a fact that thepinballcompany.com vendor uses a dilluted solution of Simple Green for their playfields.

    Anyhoo, I'll try to get some sleep for now and look forward to some excellent responses in the morning.

    #1503 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Sounds good. I think I largely got as much out of this thread as I'm going to. The Wizards Mist-N-Shine seems excellent and pinballinreno seems to really like it as well. The ongoing debate whether to wax or not became interesting when mrgregb123 got involved and pretty much said he didn't see a purpose.
    I'm still trying to get caught up on some of the terminology going on around here, the trough, the apron, ball scoop, etc haha ,, but I'm sure it will come in time.
    So I guess the BIGGEST question is do I wax this thing as soon as I get it and according to vid1900 ... yea I "should".. whew.
    Saw something about the CGCs, JJPs, clearcoat chipping "easily". That's umm...VERY concerning. I hope like hell that does not happen.
    vid1900 might actually be against using Mist-N-shine as I believe it contains wax and that would technically classify it as a "spray or liquid? IDK and honestly I was a little surprised that Simple Green is NOT okay for the playfield? I know for a fact that thepinballcompany.com vendor uses a dilluted solution of Simple Green for their playfields.
    Anyhoo, I'll try to get some sleep for now and look forward to some excellent responses in the morning.

    You do not have to wax your playfield before you play your new game, ive never done that. I clean and wax my games probably every 300 games i guess. I wouldn't use anything other than Novus 1 to clean your playfield with and dont spray it directly onto the playfield either. Spray it on a micro fiber rag and wipe down the playfield and the plastics etc..

    I use Novus 2 when i get ball trails down the inlanes and the outlanes. Novus 2 usually does a good job at cleaning those up. Novus 2 is not going to destroy your playfield either so no worries there. Ive used it on my entire playfield before and it was fine, but like i said just use Novus 1 to clean the playfield and Novus 2 for stubborn ball trails.

    Also don't drive yourself nuts worrying about the playfield clearcoat chipping. Its very unlikely that will happen. Just play your game and enjoy it, thats what these things are for and they are durable and hold up well. Vid has forgot more than i will ever know so definitely listen to him instead of me but im sure he will agree with what im telling you probably.

    Here is a pretty good video for noobs.

    Congrats on your new game, enjoy!

    #1504 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    vid1900
    Greetings pinsiders!
    I want to preface my comments by informing that I am a noob and BRAND NEW to this community. This will literally serve as my first post.
    So... I'm about to purchase my FIRST PIN ever and I'm stoked about it and well...honestly, terrified after reading some of the stuff in this thread. I will continue to do my part and read through this, but there's a lot. I'm on page 6 currently...
    Okay, so I will be purchasing the Monster Bash Remake LE and ultimately, I just want to enjoy my game and do the right things and not the "wrong" things and keep this thing in pristine condition. Also, this will be a HUO machine.
    Alright, that said ... here's where my feelings lie at the moment..
    It kinda feels like a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation and I'll explain in a little bit.
    Sounds to me that the condition of the balls is absolutely paramount. Noted. Of course, it's not expected that you're going to be inspecting your pinballs after every game so it makes enough reasonable sense that you'll simply check whenever you clean the machine.
    Alright so the heart of my concerns, confusion, etc comes down to...
    To Wax or Not To Wax ... That is the question..
    My understanding is when I get this game, it will be "pre-waxed" ... only slightly or w/e, but all the same. And let me say that I LOVE the idea that waxing the PF makes it so that sequential maintenance is well easier to maintain, but the thought of using wax is TERRIFYING me. Which wax to use, don't use too much, make sure you wait long enough and on and on. I would PREFER to not use wax if at all possible.
    -----------------------------------------------
    How do I ask this next question and sound some-what relatively intelligent? I'm having a very difficult time coming to the realization or the necessity of needing to wax this machine when I first get it as, again, it's already "pre-waxed."
    At the same time, it makes 0 sense to use something like Novus 2 since it contains abrasives. Back to the damned if you do and damned if you don't bit ..
    If my comprehension of what I have read thus far is accurate, Novus 2 contains abrasives and will "wear-down" the PF albeit slowly. Well, I don't want to do that...of course.
    Circling back around to the "The damned if you and damned if you don't ... " .. If I opt to not use Novus 2 or wax, well, isn't playing the game naturally going to "wear down" the PF either way? And if it is, ultimately, does it make sense to use Novus 2 if you "can't avoid" wearing down the play field?
    Furthermore, is it "insensitive" to think you can avoid scratching the game in the first place?
    I know someone uses a diluted version of Simple Green (I don't know which method ... there are 3 on the concentrated bottle on the back .. "heavy duty" , "normal", etc) and that sounds like a good idea or Novus 1. Makes sense that you would use Novus 1 if you are using Novus 2. Novus 1 contains "too much" water? Simple Green is cheaper? Just as effective? More effective?
    ... Alright guys/gals, I think that's more than enough for now.
    I WILL REALLY APPRECIATE any and all feedback regarding my concerns and how to go about this when I receive the game.
    Thanks in advance!

    Hi there. Congrats on your upcoming purchase!

    I’m relatively new to this hobby — about 4 plus years in — so understand your nervousness and confusion. I was the same way. I now own two older machine and two games I bought new. I bought a third pin new but recently sold it. So, let me reassure you.

    First, just take a deep breath and remember that even if you play a lot of games at home — and you will play a lot at first — it will be no where near the level that a pin gets played on location. You are very unlikely to see any wear to your machine even if you don’t wax for months. Does that mean you shouldn’t wax? No. It just means that when you get your game, just play it and enjoy and then wax when you can. Use blitz or P21S. Both are excellent. You need only apply a tiny amount. It should be barely visible when you apply it. Just enough to create a slight haze when it dries. Then buff off. Just get the easy to reach areas. No need to do a full tear down for a long time.

    Wax every 3-6 months. In between waxings, vacuum up dust. If needed, use Novus 1, not 2. Change your balls every 3-6 months as well. It is a cheap thing to do and can potentially create issues if you don’t.

    And just enjoy. All three of my NIB games looked like new years after I bought them. Is it beacause I waxed? Maybe. It is more because I played them In the home and only put on 1,000-2,000 games instead of 10,000 like they would get on location. NIB games including yours come with a protective layer of clear coat. It is not a wax, so you should still wax. But it does protect the paint. And you can relax. You’ll figure it out and not do any harm to your pin.

    Enjoy!

    #1505 5 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Hi there. Congrats on your upcoming purchase!
    I’m relatively new to this hobby — about 4 plus years in — so understand your nervousness and confusion. I was the same way. I now own two older machine and two games I bought new. I bought a third pin new but recently sold it. So, let me reassure you.
    First, just take a deep breath and remember that even if you play a lot of games at home — and you will play a lot at first — it will be no where near the level that a pin gets played on location. You are very unlikely to see any wear to your machine even if you don’t wax for months. Does that mean you shouldn’t wax? No. It just means that when you get your game, just play it and enjoy and then wax when you can. Use blitz or P21S. Both are excellent. You need only apply a tiny amount. It should be barely visible when you apply it. Just enough to create a slight haze when it dries. Then buff off. Just get the easy to reach areas. No need to do a full tear down for a long time.
    Wax every 3-6 months. In between waxings, vacuum up dust. If needed, use Novus 1, not 2. Change your balls every 3-6 months as well. It is a cheap thing to do and can potentially create issues if you don’t.
    And just enjoy. All three of my NIB games looked like new years after I bought them. Is it beacause I waxed? Maybe. It is more because I played them In the home and only put on 1,000-2,000 games instead of 10,000 like they would get on location. NIB games including yours come with a protective layer of clear coat. It is not a wax, so you should still wax. But it does protect the paint. And you can relax. You’ll figure it out and not do any harm to your pin.
    Enjoy!

    Very good info, but it is ok to use Novus 2 if the game gets really dirty or when you get ball trails. It wont hurt a thing. No way is it so abrasive that its going to damage the clearcoat.

    #1506 5 months ago

    If you’re buying a remake from CGC as your first and only game, put your Novus 2 in long term storage. You will have misplaced it or lost it anyway by the time you ever need it on a NIB game.

    Also... NIB games do NOT come waxed from the manufacturer.

    #1507 5 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    If you’re buying a remake from CGC as your first and only game, throw your Novus 2 away. You will have misplaced it or lost it anyway by the time you ever need it on a NIB game.

    I dont know, stubborn ball trails can happen pretty quickly.

    #1508 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    vid1900 might actually be against using Mist-N-shine as I believe it contains wax and that would technically classify it as a "spray or liquid? IDK and honestly I was a little surprised that Simple Green is NOT okay for the playfield? I know for a fact that thepinballcompany.com vendor uses a dilluted solution of Simple Green for their playfields.

    Spray on wax coatings can contain silicon, which can wreck major destructive havoc down the line if one attempts to clear coat a playfield that's been treated as such, and it can be tough to completely remove, and shows no sign of being there until you hit it with the clear coat. At which point, it can result in literally a ruined playfield.

    Simple Green can soak into the wood of older playfields unless the original varnish is undamaged, swelling the wood, raising the grain, and otherwise making a restoration effort much more difficult.

    #1509 5 months ago
    Quoted from Who-Dey:

    I dont know, stubborn ball trails can happen pretty quickly.

    Just one more reason to wax the unit as soon as you get it and clean the balls and everything else before the first play. I have an MMR with a couple years of use that looks brand new with only Novus 1. But if anyone wants to use Novus 2, which is more abrasive, it's their prerogative. This is Vid's thread and guide anyway... he knows much better than I do. Just giving my two cents worth... which is probably only worth about half that.

    #1510 5 months ago
    Quoted from Pinzap:

    Just one more reason to wax the unit as soon as you get it and clean the balls and everything else before the first play. I have an MMR with a couple years of use that looks brand new with only Novus 1. But if anyone wants to use Novus 2, which is more abrasive, it's their prerogative. This is Vid's thread and guide anyway... he knows much better than I do. Just giving my two cents worth... which is probably only worth about half that.

    How do you clean the balls? I keep asking people to get various opinions. Thank you!

    #1511 5 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Hi there. Congrats on your upcoming purchase!
    I’m relatively new to this hobby — about 4 plus years in — so understand your nervousness and confusion. I was the same way. I now own two older machine and two games I bought new. I bought a third pin new but recently sold it. So, let me reassure you.
    First, just take a deep breath and remember that even if you play a lot of games at home — and you will play a lot at first — it will be no where near the level that a pin gets played on location. You are very unlikely to see any wear to your machine even if you don’t wax for months. Does that mean you shouldn’t wax? No. It just means that when you get your game, just play it and enjoy and then wax when you can. Use blitz or P21S. Both are excellent. You need only apply a tiny amount. It should be barely visible when you apply it. Just enough to create a slight haze when it dries. Then buff off. Just get the easy to reach areas. No need to do a full tear down for a long time.
    Wax every 3-6 months. In between waxings, vacuum up dust. If needed, use Novus 1, not 2. Change your balls every 3-6 months as well. It is a cheap thing to do and can potentially create issues if you don’t.
    And just enjoy. All three of my NIB games looked like new years after I bought them. Is it beacause I waxed? Maybe. It is more because I played them In the home and only put on 1,000-2,000 games instead of 10,000 like they would get on location. NIB games including yours come with a protective layer of clear coat. It is not a wax, so you should still wax. But it does protect the paint. And you can relax. You’ll figure it out and not do any harm to your pin.
    Enjoy!

    So you apply wax with the yellow sponges, and do you use them to buff it off as well? The same one or a microfiber towel? How long should I wait till it dries, an hour?

    Thank you for the informative and descriptive post!

    #1512 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    How do you clean the balls? I keep asking people to get various opinions. Thank you!

    New balls are often coated with oil to prevent corrosion in storage. They should be wiped clean with alcohol or lacquer thinner or other effective degreasing solvent prior to use. After that, inspect them for wear (nicks/ scratches) and replace as needed. If reusing a ball after cleaning and waxing the playfield, just wipe it clean of any dust with a soft rag.

    #1513 5 months ago
    Quoted from Who-Dey:

    Very good info, but it is ok to use Novus 2 if the game gets really dirty or when you get ball trails. It wont hurt a thing. No way is it so abrasive that its going to damage the clearcoat.

    True. I’ve even used Novus 2 on 30 yr old playfields without a problem, but it wouldn’t be my regular cleaning choice.

    Quoted from wesman:

    So you apply wax with the yellow sponges, and do you use them to buff it off as well? The same one or a microfiber towel? How long should I wait till it dries, an hour?
    Thank you for the informative and descriptive post!

    Use a microfiber towel to buff. I usually wait 30 minutes. Just do one coat, not more. Vid lists a finger test to determine whether the wax is dry early in this thread.

    #1514 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    New balls are often coated with oil to prevent corrosion in storage. They should be wiped clean with alcohol or lacquer thinner or other effective degreasing solvent prior to use. After that, inspect them for wear (nicks/ scratches) and replace as needed. If reusing a ball after cleaning and waxing the playfield, just wipe it clean of any dust with a soft rag.

    I really wish manufacturers would give this info in their introductory manuals. I had no clue, co isn't find anything on the web, and only got info from the always helpful pinballinreno.

    Would a simple rubbing alcohol work to de-oil? I've already used them, with just a rub on a sweat jacket, I'm guessing no damage was done at this point?

    Quoted from Nokoro:

    True. I’ve even used Novus 2 on 30 yr old playfields without a problem, but it wouldn’t be my regular cleaning choice.

    Use a microfiber towel to buff. I usually wait 30 minutes. Just do one coat, not more. Vid lists a finger test to determine whether the wax is dry early in this thread.

    Oh excellent! Thanks for that info! And I'm guessing buffing consists of light, brief circular rubs?

    #1515 5 months ago
    Quoted from LynnInDenver:

    Spray on wax coatings can contain silicon

    Silicon is a solid, most commonly found as a component of sand and unlikely to be found in spray form.
    You're thinking of siliconEs, "also called polysiloxane, any of a diverse class of fluids, resins, or elastomers based on polymerized siloxanes, substances whose molecules consist of chains made of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms.
    https://www.britannica.com/science/silicone
    The MSDS for Mist-N-Shine is the most useless one I've ever seen: http://www.lyonsperformance.com/manuals/MSDS%20Mist-N-Shine.pdf
    The product info says it contains no wax: https://wizardsproducts.com/mist-n-shine-22-oz "Contains no wax or petroleum solvents."
    @joseph5185

    #1516 5 months ago

    Manufacturers DO NOT apply wax from the factory.

    Applying wax gives you a rock hard, renewable surface that will make your game last thousands of plays more than no wax at all.

    Since pure carnauba is rock hard, use naptha to remove it. Full detailing and wax removal would only happen if the game is completely torn down for major maintenance after 10 or 20 thousand plays.

    Mist n shine is silicone free. JJP uses if for the final wipe down on all games. Its rated for clearcoat.
    A lot of us use it for between waxing "touch-ups", and you can use it on plastics too.

    Its a cleaner/wax that is similar to novus 1, but has more wax in it. Lightly spray it on a rag, wipe and buff off.

    Lighter fluid, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner is used to clean off grease from balls and small parts.

    Lighter fluid is pure old school Naptha.

    Small bottles of Ronson lighter fluid are readily available and very useful for cleaning off coil sleeves or greasy build up in mechanical parts.

    And it comes in a handy tool box size bottle.

    If you want, you can get a gallon of V&P naptha at home depot. This will be the newer safer version, its ok but not as good as the real thing we used to have. But Im kinda old school on this.

    Ball tracking will occur very soon after100 to 200 plays.
    Mostly waxing them off and buffing is pretty effective, the wax has solvents in it that soften and remove the old wax pretty effectively, taking the dirt off with it.

    If ball tracks dont wax off, a little novus 2 works really well. Novus 2 is slightly abrasive, so apply freash wax over those areas after cleaning.

    DO NOT spray stuff all over the playfield. It just drips into the cabinet and corrodes metal parts, or gets them wet so black dust sticks to them.

    Apply stuff with a rag then buff/dry off.

    Sparkle glass cleaner can be used to clean just about anything. Its also rated for coated anti-reflective glass and clearcoat.
    Its ammonia free and wont hurt plastics either.

    #1517 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Manufacturers DO NOT apply wax from the factory.
    Applying wax gives you a rock hard, renewable surface that will make your game last thousands of plays more than no wax at all.
    Since pure carnauba is rock hard, use naptha to remove it. Full detailing and wax removal would only happen if the game is completely torn down for major maintenance after 10 or 20 thousand plays.
    Mist n shine is silicone free. JJP uses if for the final wipe down on all games. Its rated for clearcoat.
    A lot of us use it for between waxing "touch-ups", and you can use it on plastics too.
    Its a cleaner/wax that is similar to novus 1, but has more wax in it. Lightly spray it on a rag, wipe and buff off.
    Lighter fluid, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner is used to clean off grease from balls and small parts.
    Lighter fluid is pure old school Naptha.
    Small bottles of Ronson lighter fluid are readily available and very useful for cleaning off coil sleeves of a lot of greasy build up in mechanical parts.
    If you want, you can get a gallon of V&P naptha at home depot. This will be the newer safer version, its ok but not as good as the real thing we used to have. But Im kinda old school on this.
    Ball tracking will occur very soon after100 to 200 plays.
    Mostly waxing them off and buffing is pretty effective, the wax has solvents in it that soften and remove the old wax pretty effectively, taking the dirt off with it.
    If ball tracks dont wax off, a little novus 2 works really well. Novus 2 is slightly abrasive, so apply freash wax over those areas after cleaning.
    DO NOT spray stuff all over the playfield. It just drips into the cabinet and corrodes metal parts, or gets them wet so black dust sticks to them.
    Apply stuff with a rag then buff/dry off.
    Sparkle glass cleaner can be used to clean just about anything. Its also rated for coated anti-reflective glass and clearcoat.
    Its ammonia free and wont hurt plastics either.

    So this kind of stuff will work great for ball cleaning?

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Embers-32-oz-Fast-Lighting-Odorless-Charcoal-Lighter-200355065/203811518

    You're genuinely so incredibly helpful, as are so many on this forum!

    Ooooh. So. I apply wax with a rag, and then use the yellow sponges to buff? Or.....vice versa?

    #1518 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    So this kind of stuff will work great for ball cleaning?
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Embers-32-oz-Fast-Lighting-Odorless-Charcoal-Lighter-200355065/203811518
    You're genuinely so incredibly helpful, as are so many on this forum!
    Ooooh. So. I apply wax with a rag, and then use the yellow sponges to buff? Or.....vice versa?

    That might be white gas or kerosene (methanol or ethanol?). Its handy to have around but might leave a residue.

    This is lighter fluid:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ronson-Lighter-Fuel/50033759?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5731&adid=22222222227039050615&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80427201289&wl4=pla-177661257649&wl5=9030871&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113943116&wl11=online&wl12=50033759&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGlZi2-6ftSYAlh6sxI3Gop2hweMBQBv19cDdL83v6_ph2wkT43uedRoC8TYQAvD_BwE

    #1520 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Oh shit! Okay, I was just looking for in-store available and cheap.
    How about this from home depot?
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Lacquer-Thinner-QML170/100127500

    Sure, but only use it on unpainted metal parts.

    #1521 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Sure, but only use it on unpainted metal parts.

    Oh I was just using it on ball cleaning.

    Is there something widely available you'd recommend for that, specifically?

    Would Sparkle not work?

    #1523 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Ooooh. So. I apply wax with a rag, and then use the yellow sponges to buff? Or.....vice versa?

    Vice versa. The sponges are for application, but you can use a microfiber cloth as well. You just might have a little more control with the sponge. Buff off with a microfiber cloth.

    #1524 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Oh I was just using it on ball cleaning.
    Is there something widely available you'd recommend for that, specifically?
    Would Sparkle not work?

    Dont be too obsessed with ball cleaning, anything will do.
    The balls that came with my houdini were actually very clean, I just wiped them off with a rag.

    You just havent seen replacement balls that come with heavy honey-like grease on them to protect them from rust.
    You might see this later when you get new balls from marcospec.

    #1525 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Dont be too obsessed with ball cleaning, anything will do.
    The balls that came with my houdini were actually very clean, I just wiped them off with a rag.
    You just havent seen replacement balls that come with heavy honey-like grease on them to protect them from rust.
    You might see this later when you get new balls from marcospec.

    I always just wipe mine off real good because they usually seem to be pretty clean when i get them. Maybe i should start using alcohol or something to clean them?

    #1526 5 months ago
    Quoted from Who-Dey:

    I always just wipe mine off real good because they usually seem to be pretty clean when i get them. Maybe i should start using alcohol or something to clean them?

    WD40 works pretty good, and dries off well enough in a pinch.

    All this ball cleaning info is from the times you get fresh balls that are dripping wet with heavy oil on them.
    Degreasing will be what is needed then.

    Also I buy balls 50-100 at a time and oil them with motor oil to keep them fresh in storage.
    I just spray them off with brake cleaner and wipe with a rag before use.

    Buy balls in bulk, its better to replace them too often, than not often enough.

    #1527 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    WD40 works pretty good, and dries off well enough in a pinch.
    All this ball cleaning info is from the times you get fresh balls that are dripping wet with heavy oil on them.
    Degreasing will be what is needed then.
    Also I buy balls 50-100 at a time and oil them with motor oil to keep them fresh in storage.
    I just spray them off with brake cleaner and wipe with a rag before use.
    Buy balls in bulk, its better to replace them too often, than not often enough.

    That makes sense now! Yeah, my balls weren't oily at all. Just dry and prone to static, that was about it.

    #1528 5 months ago

    I ALWAYS keep my balls clean
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    .
    So sorry, i just had to

    #1529 5 months ago

    I use naphtha and 90% alcohol to clean the 'honey' from my balls.

    #1530 5 months ago
    Quoted from KloggMonkey:

    I use naphtha and 90% alcohol to clean the 'honey' from my balls.

    You mean by honey, oily goo from lots of new balls? Mine were from American Pinball and super dry.

    #1531 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    You mean by honey, oily goo from lots of new balls? Mine were from American Pinball and super dry.

    yes

    #1532 5 months ago

    Plain old rubbing alcohol works fine for oily balls. You're just dissolving a thin coating of oil from steel. No biggie....

    #1533 5 months ago

    Guys/Gals,

    THANK YOU 1,000x OVER !!

    I SO very much appreciate all the support and feedback. Unfortunately, looks like I won't be getting this game till early next year. (I shouldn't say "unfortunately". In context, I"m VERY fortunate to have the luxury of owning my very own machine, right? Let's say...disappointingly.)

    So as a recap:

    Get the game. Enjoy! Don't worry!

    A couple questions/comments...
    I really like the Mist N Shine pinballinreno. Is it necessary to have both Novius 1 and the Mist N Shine for any reason?
    I also like the brake cleaner as it's a spray...but it's unlikely to matter until I replace them balls...
    Invest in lots and lots of balls and micro fiber clothes. Any preference in balls? I think a couple sites were mentioned? Something about Ninja balls being the "best" or something?
    Would Invisiglass be just as good as Sparkle? I have used Invisiglass before, but not Sparkle.

    Oh, and of course -- good 'ole Blitz when the time comes.
    Side note... "I don't wax my game because it would play 'too fast'." Sighs. That KINDA sounds silly to me. It is curious that one person or multiple? made the claim that after only say 10-20 games they noticed the wax was gone and thus felt not necessary to do it. I just wonder if...maybe they aren't doing it correctly? Or maybe something else? Idk...

    I mean... 99% of you or so seem to say wax it lol so fair enough.

    I think that's it for now... but again, thanks for everything and if I forgot something I'll be sure to come back. =)

    #1534 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Guys/Gals,
    THANK YOU 1,000x OVER !!
    I SO very much appreciate all the support and feedback. Unfortunately, looks like I won't be getting this game till early next year. (I shouldn't say "unfortunately". In context, I"m VERY fortunate to have the luxury of owning my very own machine, right? Let's say...disappointingly.)
    So as a recap:
    Get the game. Enjoy! Don't worry!
    A couple questions/comments...
    I really like the Mist N Shine pinballinreno. Is it necessary to have both Novius 1 and the Mist N Shine for any reason?
    I also like the brake cleaner as it's a spray...but it's unlikely to matter until I replace them balls...
    Invest in lots and lots of balls and micro fiber clothes. Any preference in balls? I think a couple sites were mentioned? Something about Ninja balls being the "best" or something?
    Would Invisiglass be just as good as Sparkle? I have used Invisiglass before, but not Sparkle.
    Oh, and of course -- good 'ole Blitz when the time comes.
    Side note... "I don't wax my game because it would play 'too fast'." Sighs. That KINDA sounds silly to me. It is curious that one person or multiple? made the claim that after only say 10-20 games they noticed the wax was gone and thus felt not necessary to do it. I just wonder if...maybe they aren't doing it correctly? Or maybe something else? Idk...
    I mean... 99% of you or so seem to say wax it lol so fair enough.
    I think that's it for now... but again, thanks for everything and if I forgot something I'll be sure to come back. =)

    You don’t need both Novus 1 and Mist N Shine. They are different products for the same thing.

    In terms of balls, for games with magnets, get a carbon steel ball so it doesn’t get magnetized. Otherwise, chrome steel is ok for balls without magnets. I believe Ninja is chrome, but Ball Baron also sells a high quality carbon steel.

    #1535 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Guys/Gals,
    THANK YOU 1,000x OVER !!
    I SO very much appreciate all the support and feedback. Unfortunately, looks like I won't be getting this game till early next year. (I shouldn't say "unfortunately". In context, I"m VERY fortunate to have the luxury of owning my very own machine, right? Let's say...disappointingly.)
    So as a recap:
    Get the game. Enjoy! Don't worry!
    A couple questions/comments...
    I really like the Mist N Shine pinballinreno. Is it necessary to have both Novius 1 and the Mist N Shine for any reason?
    I also like the brake cleaner as it's a spray...but it's unlikely to matter until I replace them balls...
    Invest in lots and lots of balls and micro fiber clothes. Any preference in balls? I think a couple sites were mentioned? Something about Ninja balls being the "best" or something?
    Would Invisiglass be just as good as Sparkle? I have used Invisiglass before, but not Sparkle.
    Oh, and of course -- good 'ole Blitz when the time comes.
    Side note... "I don't wax my game because it would play 'too fast'." Sighs. That KINDA sounds silly to me. It is curious that one person or multiple? made the claim that after only say 10-20 games they noticed the wax was gone and thus felt not necessary to do it. I just wonder if...maybe they aren't doing it correctly? Or maybe something else? Idk...
    I mean... 99% of you or so seem to say wax it lol so fair enough.
    I think that's it for now... but again, thanks for everything and if I forgot something I'll be sure to come back. =)

    IMO, I would just get a can of Blitz wax and use that for any and all waxing. You could just spend an extra 15 minutes and always use an actual wax on the playfield vs. a spray-product on a towel, but there's no harm in the latter. The Novus set is cheap, and has other uses (restoring headlights) so just pick up all three so you have them just in case, especially if you have older/player's condition games.

    For cleaning glass (even house windows) I've found that nothing beats a homemade solution. Mix 1 cup of water to 1/4 cup of plain distilled white vinegar and a few drops of Dawn dish soap in a spray bottle. Spray onto glass and clean/wipe with those disposable paper coffee filters. The glass will be crystal clear with zero streaks.

    Wax is certainly needed. I hadn't waxed my BK2K for a long time and the game was playing incredibly slow. I recently waxed it and it's back to its original speed.

    I like Ninja balls. None of my games have magnets, unless you count the Magna Save.

    #1536 5 months ago

    Sounds good.

    I never heard of using coffee filters to clean glass, but that sounds like a neat trick.

    I don’t think Monster Bash has any magnets and leaning towards the ninja balls because they say ninja. Haha

    #1537 5 months ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Sounds good.
    I never heard of using coffee filters to clean glass, but that sounds like a neat trick.
    I don’t think Monster Bash has any magnets and leaning towards the ninja balls because they say ninja. Haha

    Coffee filters are lint free and dont fall apart like paper towels.

    Restaurants use them for glass all the time.

    #1538 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    What's the usual protocol for a first waxing, as in timeframe and such?

    I always wax a game before any balls run through it.

    I also usually Mylar the shooter lane.

    Replace balls with top quality ones.

    Quoted from wesman:

    And what would you recommend for picking up tiny particles from it being made. I have bits of wood/particle flakes here and there throughout the playfield, and of course some dust that came in from removing the glass a couple of times.

    Vac out all the dust and crap.

    Vac out the cab bottom too.

    Then wax.

    Quoted from wesman:

    Do you wipe the balls down with anything in particular?

    If the balls still have the shipping oil on them, you can hit them with Brake Kleen

    #1539 5 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I always wax a game before any balls run through it.
    I also usually Mylar the shooter lane.
    Replace balls with top quality ones.

    Vac out all the dust and crap.
    Vac out the cab bottom too.
    Then wax.

    If the balls still have the shipping oil on them, you can hit them with Brake Kleen

    Thanks for those tips!

    Will a Cliffy suffice for the shooter lane?

    I think I had under 50 plays before my first, a bit sloppy at that, wax. Will there always be scuff marks and such, either way?

    #1540 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Will a Cliffy suffice for the shooter lane?

    Yep, those are great.

    Quoted from wesman:

    I think I had under 50 plays before my first, a bit sloppy at that, wax. Will there always be scuff marks and such, either way?

    Scuffs in the wax coating are much better than scuffs in the clear/paint.

    If you play your game, it's going to get dimples, scuffs, whatnot - all totally normal.

    #1541 5 months ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Yep, those are great.

    Scuffs in the wax coating are much better than scuffs in the clear/paint.
    If you play your game, it's going to get dimples, scuffs, whatnot - all totally normal.

    Yeah, I was afraid I'd scuffed it up prewaxing. But I'd imagine wax can only protect the clearcoat so much either way.... I definitely noticed scuffs before waxing.

    As a first time new owner, I'm getting used to the fact that games are like cars. They can be preserved, but still take lifetime damage from being used. Makes sense.

    #1542 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Yeah, I was afraid I'd scuffed it up prewaxing. But I'd imagine wax can only protect the clearcoat so much either way.... I definitely noticed scuffs before waxing.
    As a first time new owner, I'm getting used to the fact that games are like cars. They can be preserved, but still take lifetime damage from being used. Makes sense.

    At about 10,000 plays, the game will be torn down for maintenance.

    At that point you take a buffer to the clearcoat and remove the scuffs do touchups etc.

    Also the dimples will start to even out flat again.

    You wax the playfield to get it to last 40,000 plays and still have something to work with.

    There's no guarantee that you can get a new playfield 30 years from now.

    #1543 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    At about 10,000 plays, the game will be torn down for maintenance.
    At that point you take a buffer to the clearcoat and remove the scuffs do touchups etc.
    Also the dimples will start to even out flat again.
    You wax the playfield to get it to last 40,000 plays and still have something to work with.
    There's no guarantee that you can get a new playfield 30 years from now.

    Is that when you'd use products like Novus 2?

    Funny, I think earlier this year, I saw my first playfield raised, probably in a TNT video just a few months ago. I was pretty wowed, and intimidated by the innards of such a beast, and how they handled it. Now months later....

    Do you have a youtube channel? I was looking for Monster Bash LE videos, and saw one from a user in Reno.

    -2
    #1544 5 months ago

    Mills pinball wax. Nothing else needed for a new machine if you keep maintenance up. Is this correct.

    #1545 5 months ago

    Using a micro fiber cloth.

    #1546 5 months ago
    Quoted from JCNP:

    Mills pinball wax. Nothing else needed for a new machine if you keep maintenance up. Is this correct.

    no one uses that.

    use blitz 1000 or P21S silver.

    #1547 5 months ago
    Quoted from JCNP:

    Mills pinball wax. Nothing else needed for a new machine if you keep maintenance up. Is this correct.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide/page/2#post-2657721

    #1548 5 months ago

    Thank you. I read again and again. I'm getting a new machine soon. I'm going to wipe it down with new microfiber cloth. Put on some p21s silver wax with microfiber cloth. Going to install mylar in critical areas. Do you think 4 mil would be acceptable over the 3? Really appreciate your knowledge and help. Thanks for responding quickly. I can see you take a little bit of abuse from reading the thread but when you spell it out factually it's hard to ignore.

    #1549 5 months ago
    Quoted from JCNP:

    I'm going to wipe it down with new microfiber cloth.

    You can just use a paper towel.

    It's not like a playfield is a fine optical surface.

    Quoted from JCNP:

    I can see you take a little bit of abuse from reading the thread but when you spell it out factually it's hard to ignore.

    I like setting the trap, and then laugh when clods step right in it, right on cue

    #1550 5 months ago

    Do you think the 4 mil mylar is too thick, will it create a problem?

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