Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide

(Topic ID: 137689)

Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines - Vid's Guide


By vid1900

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 21 days ago by tbaum
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    #1451 88 days ago
    Quoted from dashv:

    Silly question.

    Are you supposed to wax the shooter lane too? Do you wax the metal rails the balls travel across and metal parts of the ramps?

    Not a silly question at all.

    Wax everyplace the ball touches.

    Shooter lane, ramps, guides, wire guides, chutes....waxing removes the friction of the ball scraping along.

    So a waxed ramp lasts longer before you have to take it out and buff it clear again.

    A waxed chute causes less wear on the ball.

    A waxed wire guide will abrade the ball less.....you get the idea.

    #1452 88 days ago

    Deleted -- inadvertently posted in wrong thread, sorry!

    #1453 88 days ago
    Quoted from SkyKing2301:

    This keeps happening on mine when the ball gets airborne. Any discreet preventative suggestions?
    [quoted image]

    Turn the trees so the overhang the orbit of you can.

    #1454 88 days ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    Turn the trees so the overhang the orbit of you can.

    lol whoops I posted this in the wrong thread! Thanks though, I'll try that. I wonder if that's how they're supposed to be...?

    #1455 88 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Not a silly question at all.
    Wax everyplace the ball touches.
    Shooter lane, ramps, guides, wire guides, chutes....waxing removes the friction of the ball scraping along.
    So a waxed ramp lasts longer before you have to take it out and buff it clear again.
    A waxed chute causes less wear on the ball.
    A waxed wire guide will abrade the ball less.....you get the idea.

    Thanks! Didn’t know if I should use Blitz on the plastic (ramps).

    Only makes more sense to use it now!

    If I accidentally use to much, just wipe off the excess with a dry rag?

    #1456 88 days ago
    Quoted from dashv:

    If I accidentally use to much, just wipe off the excess with a dry rag?

    Yep, just wipe it off after it dries.

    #1457 85 days ago

    hopefully an easy question - is Novus No. 2 the brown stuff or the white stuff ?

    I’ve only bought Novus 2 and 3 once and I have the impression the brown stuff is coarser, but it’s in the Novus No. 2 bottle.

    #1458 85 days ago
    Quoted from branlon8:

    hopefully an easy question - is Novus No. 2 the brown stuff or the white stuff ?
    I’ve only bought Novus 2 and 3 once and I have the impression the brown stuff is coarser, but it’s in the Novus No. 2 bottle.

    Brown is novus 2. 3 is white and feels like it has sand in it. Way more coarse.

    #1459 85 days ago
    Quoted from branlon8:

    hopefully an easy question - is Novus No. 2 the brown stuff or the white stuff ?
    I’ve only bought Novus 2 and 3 once and I have the impression the brown stuff is coarser, but it’s in the Novus No. 2 bottle.

    If it's getting thick add a tiny bit of water to it and shake it up a lot.
    You shouldn't have to use the novus 3 at all, unless you are restoring an area.

    2 weeks later
    #1460 68 days ago

    Which of these two products do you recommend? for stern machines

    Screenshot_20181010-025853 (resized).pngScreenshot_20181010-025957 (resized).png
    #1461 68 days ago
    Quoted from mannymasy:

    Which of these two products do you recommend? for stern machines
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Never use a liquid **wax** on a pinball machine.

    Meguiars is ok, but there are much better choices:

    https://www.pinballlife.com/blitz-carnauba-paste-wax-12-ounce-jar.html

    #1462 68 days ago

    but it is that the shipment to my country is 49 dollars ... it would be very expensive

    #1463 67 days ago

    It's not as good as blitz wax - but it doesn't have any of the issues with Liquid waxes noted above and should be platable shipping wise since it's from amazon. The key is 'pure carnauba' and nothing that's a liquid or advertises polymers/detergents/cleaners/etc like your other choice above.

    amazon.com link »

    #1464 67 days ago
    Quoted from statictrance:

    No es tan bueno como la cera de bombeo, pero no tiene ninguno de los problemas con las ceras líquidas que se mencionaron anteriormente y debe ser platicable en cuanto al envío, ya que es de Amazon. La clave es 'carnauba puro' y nada que sea líquido o que anuncie polímeros / detergentes / limpiadores / etc. como su otra opción anterior.
    enlace amazon.com »

    Is it better than gold and black?

    #1465 66 days ago
    Quoted from mannymasy:

    but it is that the shipment to my country is 49 dollars ... it would be very expensive

    One jar will last a very long time and produce superior results.

    #1466 66 days ago
    Quoted from mannymasy:

    but it is that the shipment to my country is 49 dollars ... it would be very expensive

    Pinball life shipping is crazy expensive to my country aswell. Try to find out if there is a shipping agent from your country based in USA. I get USA parcels delivered to a new zealand (my country) shipping agent based in USA. They charge a much more reasonable shipping rate, and will also combine multiple parcels into one to save more.
    The blitz wax is great, I've started using it on my cars and bikes aswell now. Definately puts alot of spin on the ball, and makes a game fast....

    #1467 66 days ago
    Quoted from FuryosJustin:

    Pinball life shipping is crazy expensive to my country aswell

    Even in the States, PinballLife shipping is twice that of Marco .

    PL used to have cheap shipping and substantially cheaper parts prices.

    Now Marco is often less, especially when you factor the shipping.

    #1468 66 days ago

    Does not another page sell it?

    #1469 65 days ago
    Quoted from mannymasy:

    Does not another page sell it?

    Amazon is out of stock.

    A bunch of auto websites sell it.

    Most auto "swap meets" sell it.

    Some of the bigger BMW dealers in the States sell it.

    One can will last you many years, so it's just not something you buy often.

    .

    #1471 62 days ago

    Vid
    Was wondering if S100 would be a good wax since it is carnauba and beeswax. Reason I mention it is because it is sold at almost all Harley Davidson stores and if your store doesn't have it, they can order it from HD. This might also help our New Zealand friend as I see there are 3 HD stores there.
    Just a suggestion Hope to hear if it would work.
    Mike

    #1472 62 days ago
    Quoted from packie1:

    Was wondering if S100 would be a good wax since it is carnauba and beeswax.

    I don't know.

    It always seems scammy how they sell the same P21S wax to automotive crowd and then relabel it as S100 wax to the biking crowd - but at 2X the price.

    In the States, that's a good way to get your ass kicked by a bunch of bikers....

    #1473 61 days ago
    Quoted from packie1:

    Vid
    Was wondering if S100 would be a good wax since it is carnauba and beeswax. Reason I mention it is because it is sold at almost all Harley Davidson stores and if your store doesn't have it, they can order it from HD. This might also help our New Zealand friend as I see there are 3 HD stores there.
    Just a suggestion Hope to hear if it would work.
    Mike

    Beeswax is WAAAY softer than carnuba, so I guess it depends on the mix ratio how well it would work on a pin.

    #1474 61 days ago

    I've used S100 for approximately 2 years.

    Compared to friends' machines (who use Blitz & Mother's) it doesn't appear to last as long. Other than slightly more frequent waxing, I've no complaints.

    I plan to try some Blitz next.

    #1475 61 days ago

    The P21S silver can is the one you want.
    The blue can is half beeswax, cheaper but not as good as the 100% carnauba in the silver can.

    1 week later
    #1476 51 days ago

    So i think I may have screwed it up. I waxed my playfield and now the rollovers won't come back up on their own. I've cleaned them out as best as I can with some q-tips but they still won't come up on their own.

    This leads me to 2 questions:
    1 - is there any way to fix this, or (hope hope) will it fix itself once the wax dries?
    2 - in a related question - what is best practice to wax a playfield that has rollovers?

    IMG_3560 (resized).jpg
    #1477 51 days ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    So i think I may have screwed it up. I waxed my playfield and now the rollovers won't come back up on their own. I've cleaned them out as best as I can with some q-tips but they still won't come up on their own.
    This leads me to 2 questions:
    1 - is there any way to fix this, or (hope hope) will it fix itself once the wax dries?
    2 - in a related question - what is best practice to wax a playfield that has rollovers?[quoted image]

    use some alchohol with those q-tips... that should dissolve any wax.

    Best way, wax around those inserts and don't put so much material on the PF.

    #1478 51 days ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    So i think I may have screwed it up. I waxed my playfield and now the rollovers won't come back up on their own. I've cleaned them out as best as I can with some q-tips but they still won't come up on their own.

    That's A LOT of wax in those slots.

    That rollover has probably never been cleaned in 40 years:

    1. loosen one switch screw, remove the other, and rotate the switch mech out of the way.

    2. Remove the white insert (directions in the playfield restoration thread)

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/19#post-1762057

    3. Completely clean out the white and red parts

    #1479 51 days ago

    that makes a lot of sense, thanks! I was pretty nervous I had ruined it.

    #1480 50 days ago
    Quoted from mark532011:

    that makes a lot of sense, thanks! I was pretty nervous I had ruined it.

    Even if you somehow did ruin it, it's an easily replaceable part because it occasionally breaks on it's own.

    http://www.pbresource.com/rollobut.htm

    gtb-d11966c (resized).jpg
    1 week later
    #1481 43 days ago

    I've used some tips from this thread, but still can't seem to get rid of the trailed left from balls, and also the trails left from the flippers.

    Anyone have a solution to cleaning up the inlanes down the flippers, and the path that the flippers travel. Looks pretty bad on my LOTR, and Novus 2 just doesn't seem to do much.

    Thanks

    #1482 42 days ago
    Quoted from Damien:

    I've used some tips from this thread, but still can't seem to get rid of the trailed left from balls, and also the trails left from the flippers.
    Anyone have a solution to cleaning up the inlanes down the flippers, and the path that the flippers travel. Looks pretty bad on my LOTR, and Novus 2 just doesn't seem to do much.
    Thanks

    Without clear pictures, no one can see what you are dealing with.

    If the game was not waxed for many years, or old balls have been chewing through the clear, the ball trails could be permanent.

    #1483 42 days ago
    Quoted from Damien:

    I've used some tips from this thread, but still can't seem to get rid of the trailed left from balls, and also the trails left from the flippers.
    Anyone have a solution to cleaning up the inlanes down the flippers, and the path that the flippers travel. Looks pretty bad on my LOTR, and Novus 2 just doesn't seem to do much.
    Thanks

    Ball trails become ball ruts in the playfield over time.

    Dirt accumulates in the ruts and gets ground in.

    Wax removal with naphtha and then Novus 2 is great for rubbing out the tracking.

    Small amounts of novus 2 and firm aggressive rubbing, turning the rag often will do the trick.

    Novus 3 is too aggressive, I dont like the dull appearance it leaves, and it damages/cuts too much clear off. But it works on badly neglected areas if you must, I hate using it.

    Wax afterwards with pure canauba.

    These areas have to be cleaned more often, so check it often.

    I use mist n shine to pick up black dust between waxings. It cleans without removing the wax.

    Every 2500-3000 plays I remove various coil stops and clean sleeves throughout the game to limit coil stop dust production. This helps a lot.

    Ultimately the clearcoat will wear off and need to be reapplied, but it could last 30 to 50 thousand or more plays with proper maintenance.

    So, keep it waxed and very clean for it to last.

    #1484 42 days ago
    Quoted from Damien:

    I've used some tips from this thread, but still can't seem to get rid of the trailed left from balls, and also the trails left from the flippers.
    Anyone have a solution to cleaning up the inlanes down the flippers, and the path that the flippers travel. Looks pretty bad on my LOTR, and Novus 2 just doesn't seem to do much.
    Thanks

    I understand the ball trail and agree with the above advice, but flippers should not leave a trail. Properly installed flippers don't touch the playfield. As Vid said, a picture would really help.

    #1485 42 days ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    I understand the ball trail and agree with the above advice, but flippers should not leave a trail.

    Usually the flipper bushing wears out and they you get those "angel wings" etched into the playfield

    #1486 42 days ago
    Quoted from pinheadpierre:

    I understand the ball trail and agree with the above advice, but flippers should not leave a trail. Properly installed flippers don't touch the playfield. As Vid said, a picture would really help.

    Yes, flippers should never scrape the playfield.

    Definitely a broken flipper bushing or flipper bat clearance issue.

    #1487 37 days ago

    I've read the entire thread, and afterwards...forgot to really pay attention to any metal ramp cleaning suggestions. With google search...I've only found a few threads and...cleaning suggestions are all over the place.

    I just want to do periodic cleaning of my metal ramps on Iron Maiden. Should I use sparkle, novus 1, novus 2, Magic Eraser, wizards metal shine....brasso, scotch brite 00, ….moving up to sandblasting? No rust or anything...just want to know if sparkle or novus would be fine on it or ?

    #1488 37 days ago
    Quoted from Gogdog:

    I've read the entire thread, and afterwards...forgot to really pay attention to any metal ramp cleaning suggestions. With google search...I've only found a few threads and...cleaning suggestions are all over the place.
    I just want to do periodic cleaning of my metal ramps on Iron Maiden. Should I use sparkle, novus 1, novus 2, Magic Eraser, wizards metal shine....brasso, scotch brite 00, ….moving up to sandblasting? No rust or anything...just want to know if sparkle or novus would be fine on it or ?

    The metal ramps are probably not dirty enough to require a bunch of chemicals.

    Wipe them off with a damp paper towel (drop of water) and give them a fresh coat of wax.

    #1489 33 days ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    The metal ramps are probably not dirty enough to require a bunch of chemicals.
    Wipe them off with a damp paper towel (drop of water) and give them a fresh coat of wax.

    What's the usual protocol for a first waxing, as in timeframe and such? I just got my game last Friday, have played a handful of games, and have some sponges and some Blitz One Grand that I bought prior to receiving it.

    And what would you recommend for picking up tiny particles from it being made. I have bits of wood/particle flakes here and there throughout the playfield, and of course some dust that came in from removing the glass a couple of times.

    Do you wipe the balls down with anything in particular?

    Thank you for reading!

    #1490 32 days ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    What's the usual protocol for a first waxing, as in timeframe and such? I just got my game last Friday, have played a handful of games, and have some sponges and some Blitz One Grand that I bought prior to receiving it.
    And what would you recommend for picking up tiny particles from it being made. I have bits of wood/particle flakes here and there throughout the playfield, and of course some dust that came in from removing the glass a couple of times.
    Do you wipe the balls down with anything in particular?
    Thank you for reading!

    Today is a good day to wax.
    Wax all the easy reach areas first.

    Clean the balls with a waterless degreaser like lighter fluid or brake cleaner or lacquer thinner.

    Vacuum off dust and particles with a small shopvac, inside and out when done.

    #1491 32 days ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Today is a good day to wax.
    Wax all the easy reach areas first.
    Clean the balls with a waterless degreaser like lighter fluid or brake cleaner or lacquer thinner.
    Vacuum off dust and particles with a small shopvac, inside and out when done.

    Should I directly apply it with those sponges you recommended?

    Should I use microfiber towels to pick up dust particles if my current vacuum doesn't have a great attachment?

    Or would you recommend grabbing this, and using this for dust removal more so than microfiber towels?

    Shop-Vac 5989400 8 gallon 6.0 Peak HP Stainless Wet Dry Vacuum, Black amazon.com link »

    I haven't played it since the weekend. I figured after the playfield dropped, I needed to take a break for a few days. I still need to attend to the high left flipper, but I figured cleaning and waxing might be the first step.

    For the balls, would you just apply some of what you mentioned onto a microfiber towel, and just polish them a bit?

    Thanks again man! Your expertise, and so many others on here, is genuinely greatly appreciated! I've had no maintenence experience prior with games, just playing them, and it's a whole, big new world to learn about in a very quick crash course time period.

    #1492 32 days ago

    Grab the playfield by the inner apron center.

    Raise it straight up about a foot.

    Grab the yellow service rails one in each hand ftom their front verticle areas so you can stabilize and keep it straight.

    Dont let the playfield rock out of level side to side too much.

    Step backwards to pull the playfield out of the cabinet towards you, keeping the yellow rails above the front edge.

    Do not push the playfield Into the machine. Pull it out, past the coin door.

    Rest the yellow rails on the front edge of the cabinet.

    Rest the formed squared off rear sections, of the yellow service rails into the silver metal area of the upper front edge of the cabinet.

    This will keep the playfield from sliding back

    Fix the flipper.

    It seems hard but it's a very basic thing you must do for maintenance including waxing.

    It wont fall again if you keep it under control.

    It's actually very easy one you have done it. Most of us do it without thinking now.

    Do this first.

    #1494 32 days ago

    Just wipe it down for now with a clean cloth, then wax.

    #1495 31 days ago

    vid1900

    Greetings pinsiders!

    I want to preface my comments by informing that I am a noob and BRAND NEW to this community. This will literally serve as my first post.

    So... I'm about to purchase my FIRST PIN ever and I'm stoked about it and well...honestly, terrified after reading some of the stuff in this thread. I will continue to do my part and read through this, but there's a lot. I'm on page 6 currently...

    Okay, so I will be purchasing the Monster Bash Remake LE and ultimately, I just want to enjoy my game and do the right things and not the "wrong" things and keep this thing in pristine condition. Also, this will be a HUO machine.

    Alright, that said ... here's where my feelings lie at the moment..

    It kinda feels like a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation and I'll explain in a little bit.

    Sounds to me that the condition of the balls is absolutely paramount. Noted. Of course, it's not expected that you're going to be inspecting your pinballs after every game so it makes enough reasonable sense that you'll simply check whenever you clean the machine.

    Alright so the heart of my concerns, confusion, etc comes down to...
    To Wax or Not To Wax ... That is the question..

    My understanding is when I get this game, it will be "pre-waxed" ... only slightly or w/e, but all the same. And let me say that I LOVE the idea that waxing the PF makes it so that sequential maintenance is well easier to maintain, but the thought of using wax is TERRIFYING me. Which wax to use, don't use too much, make sure you wait long enough and on and on. I would PREFER to not use wax if at all possible.

    -----------------------------------------------

    How do I ask this next question and sound some-what relatively intelligent? I'm having a very difficult time coming to the realization or the necessity of needing to wax this machine when I first get it as, again, it's already "pre-waxed."

    At the same time, it makes 0 sense to use something like Novus 2 since it contains abrasives. Back to the damned if you do and damned if you don't bit ..
    If my comprehension of what I have read thus far is accurate, Novus 2 contains abrasives and will "wear-down" the PF albeit slowly. Well, I don't want to do that...of course.

    Circling back around to the "The damned if you and damned if you don't ... " .. If I opt to not use Novus 2 or wax, well, isn't playing the game naturally going to "wear down" the PF either way? And if it is, ultimately, does it make sense to use Novus 2 if you "can't avoid" wearing down the play field?

    Furthermore, is it "insensitive" to think you can avoid scratching the game in the first place?

    I know someone uses a diluted version of Simple Green (I don't know which method ... there are 3 on the concentrated bottle on the back .. "heavy duty" , "normal", etc) and that sounds like a good idea or Novus 1. Makes sense that you would use Novus 1 if you are using Novus 2. Novus 1 contains "too much" water? Simple Green is cheaper? Just as effective? More effective?

    ... Alright guys/gals, I think that's more than enough for now.

    I WILL REALLY APPRECIATE any and all feedback regarding my concerns and how to go about this when I receive the game.

    Thanks in advance!

    #1496 31 days ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    vid1900
    Greetings pinsiders!
    I want to preface my comments by informing that I am a noob and BRAND NEW to this community. This will literally serve as my first post.
    So... I'm about to purchase my FIRST PIN ever and I'm stoked about it and well...honestly, terrified after reading some of the stuff in this thread. I will continue to do my part and read through this, but there's a lot. I'm on page 6 currently...
    Okay, so I will be purchasing the Monster Bash Remake LE and ultimately, I just want to enjoy my game and do the right things and not the "wrong" things and keep this thing in pristine condition. Also, this will be a HUO machine.
    Alright, that said ... here's where my feelings lie at the moment..
    It kinda feels like a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation and I'll explain in a little bit.
    Sounds to me that the condition of the balls is absolutely paramount. Noted. Of course, it's not expected that you're going to be inspecting your pinballs after every game so it makes enough reasonable sense that you'll simply check whenever you clean the machine.
    Alright so the heart of my concerns, confusion, etc comes down to...
    To Wax or Not To Wax ... That is the question..
    My understanding is when I get this game, it will be "pre-waxed" ... only slightly or w/e, but all the same. And let me say that I LOVE the idea that waxing the PF makes it so that sequential maintenance is well easier to maintain, but the thought of using wax is TERRIFYING me. Which wax to use, don't use too much, make sure you wait long enough and on and on. I would PREFER to not use wax if at all possible.
    -----------------------------------------------
    How do I ask this next question and sound some-what relatively intelligent? I'm having a very difficult time coming to the realization or the necessity of needing to wax this machine when I first get it as, again, it's already "pre-waxed."
    At the same time, it makes 0 sense to use something like Novus 2 since it contains abrasives. Back to the damned if you do and damned if you don't bit ..
    If my comprehension of what I have read thus far is accurate, Novus 2 contains abrasives and will "wear-down" the PF albeit slowly. Well, I don't want to do that...of course.
    Circling back around to the "The damned if you and damned if you don't ... " .. If I opt to not use Novus 2 or wax, well, isn't playing the game naturally going to "wear down" the PF either way? And if it is, ultimately, does it make sense to use Novus 2 if you "can't avoid" wearing down the play field?
    Furthermore, is it "insensitive" to think you can avoid scratching the game in the first place?
    I know someone uses a diluted version of Simple Green (I don't know which method ... there are 3 on the concentrated bottle on the back .. "heavy duty" , "normal", etc) and that sounds like a good idea or Novus 1. Makes sense that you would use Novus 1 if you are using Novus 2. Novus 1 contains "too much" water? Simple Green is cheaper? Just as effective? More effective?
    ... Alright guys/gals, I think that's more than enough for now.
    I WILL REALLY APPRECIATE any and all feedback regarding my concerns and how to go about this when I receive the game.
    Thanks in advance!

    Congrats on dipping your toes in! I just did, and am about to wax in a day or two after vacuuming, for loose particle bits, with Blitz Grand Carnauba wax.

    Novus 2 is for months, really years after heavy usage, from what I've read.

    I'd wait for some heavy hitters on the thread to reply before moving forward, but I know I was definitely directed towards Blitz Grand.

    https://www.pinballlife.com/blitz-carnauba-paste-wax-12-ounce-jar.html

    And from what I've learned, ask questions, in different ways if you need clarification or reiteration. There see a buncha good folks on this board, and very gracious and willing to help!

    #1497 31 days ago
    Quoted from mmr61184:

    I love this thread and I love all of Vid's tutorials but I think I am more confused now then I was before, mostly about waxing. Between all of the conflicting opinions and I expected that but i think i am just overwhelmed

    I REALLY couldn't agree more and that's why my first post is what it was. =)

    #1498 31 days ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Congrats on dipping your toes in! I just did, and am about to wax in a day or two after vacuuming, for loose particle bits, with Blitz Grand Carnauba wax.
    Novus 2 is for months, really years after heavy usage, from what I've read.
    I'd wait for some heavy hitters on the thread to reply before moving forward, but I know I was definitely directed towards Blitz Grand.
    https://www.pinballlife.com/blitz-carnauba-paste-wax-12-ounce-jar.html
    And from what I've learned, ask questions, in different ways if you need clarification or reiteration. There see a buncha good folks on this board, and very gracious and willing to help!

    Thank you SO MUCH for the QUICK response. I, again, appreciate it. Owning a pinball machine has really only ever been a dream and at the age of 33, it's going to become a reality. There's really little that would seem more exciting as far as ownership is concerned other than of course owning more machines. =P

    I think it was "cf" member who pretty much went against a lot of what vid said (not that I don't greatly value everything that vid has said), but essentially he said something about waxing when "you don't need to" or waxing the wrong way is far "worse" than not waxing at all and he certainly seemed to have some credibility with the 300 machines and 25 years of experience.

    Also, I'm on page like idk 26-27 and there seems to be a pretty heavy debate AGAIN about waxing especially when it's home use only which this machine will be.

    Ahh ... It's a lot my friend but thank you again for the response!

    EDIT: I hear you loud and clear and yes, the Blitz Grand is pretty much the only thing I'm going to consider since I've heard so many great things on here and vid himself recommends it of course.

    Did you do ANYTHING when you received your machine other than enjoying the hell out of it and if you didn't, do you regret it at all based on the condition the machine is in now?

    #1499 31 days ago
    Quoted from joseph5185:

    Thank you SO MUCH for the QUICK response. I, again, appreciate it. Owning a pinball machine has really only ever been a dream and at the age of 33, it's going to become a reality. There's really little that would seem more exciting as far as ownership is concerned other than of course owning more machines. =P
    I think it was "cf" member who pretty much went against a lot of what vid said (not that I don't greatly value everything that vid has said), but essentially he said something about waxing when "you don't need to" or waxing the wrong way is far "worse" than not waxing at all and he certainly seemed to have some credibility with the 300 machines and 25 years of experience.
    Also, I'm on page like idk 26-27 and there seems to be a pretty heavy debate AGAIN about waxing especially when it's home use only which this machine will be.
    Ahh ... It's a lot my friend but thank you again for the response!
    EDIT: I hear you loud and clear and yes, the Blitz Grand is pretty much the only thing I'm going to consider since I've heard so many great things on here and vid himself recommends it of course.
    Did you do ANYTHING when you received your machine other than enjoying the hell out of it and if you didn't, do you regret it at all based on the condition the machine is in now?

    You're very welcome!

    I'm only 46 games in, and am waiting for some vacuum hose attachments to arrive tomorrow, to suck out some stray particles and dust. Then I'll wax, and from what I've heard, just a fingerprint level of thickness. I'm still not sure on this myself, and believe outside of asking an owner at an arcade or brewery, it'll be a trial and error kind of thing. I try to watch videos as much as are out there, and ideally would love for individual manufacturers to put out their own videos on preferred waxes, cleaning, maintence, setup, etc. Then there'd be a bevy of official resources, along with the vast user opinions, which like you said, seem to conflict.

    Trust me, I'm in the same boat as you, only 42 and just got my Houdini in last Thursday. Never t hi ought I'd take this road, and yes the early steps seem nerve wracking and anxiety producing. I said to my friend the other day, either this experiment will wane for me after six months, due to frustrations and issues, or years down the road, these will be the first learning steps. For me, I'm feeling more the latter, but I dropped my playfield last weekend, trying to work on a flipper, and that freaked the ever living shit out of me, but it's a learning process.

    pinballinreno has been a treat help, in answering so many of my questions, and recommending products too. As well have many others on the Houdini thread! If you follow my posts, I only just started posting on here too, after lurking for a few months and feeling intimated, you'll find a good amount of questions I've asked, and answers I've received in turn.

    If you have any directly, please feel free to ask away!

    #1500 31 days ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    You're very welcome!
    I'm only 46 games in, and am waiting for some vacuum hose attachments to arrive tomorrow, to suck out some stray particles and dust. Then I'll wax, and from what I've heard, just a fingerprint level of thickness. I'm still not sure on this myself, and believe outside of asking an owner at an arcade or brewery, it'll be a trial and error kind of thing. I try to watch videos as much as are out there, and ideally would love for individual manufacturers to put out their own videos on preferred waxes, cleaning, maintence, setup, etc. Then there'd be a bevy of official resources, along with the vast user opinions, which like you said, seem to conflict.
    Trust me, I'm in the same boat as you, only 42 and just got my Houdini in last Thursday. Never t hi ought I'd take this road, and yes the early steps seem nerve wracking and anxiety producing. I said to my friend the other day, either this experiment will wane for me after six months, due to frustrations and issues, or years down the road, these will be the first learning steps. For me, I'm feeling more the latter, but I dropped my playfield last weekend, trying to work on a flipper, and that freaked the ever living shit out of me, but it's a learning process.
    pinballinreno has been a treat help, in answering so many of my questions, and recommending products too. As well have many others on the Houdini thread! If you follow my posts, I only just started posting on here too, after lurking for a few months and feeling intimated, you'll find a good amount of questions I've asked, and answers I've received in turn.
    If you have any directly, please feel free to ask away!

    Excellent!

    It doesn't sound like you applied any additional wax or removed what was there from the factory as I understand there is some. Apparently people like the circle applicators that you would use on your car and it makes a lot of sense to me and easily obtainable through Amazon.

    Did you inspect or immediately replace the balls that came with the machine?

    Also, I'm sorta hung up on this "sacrificial layer" people claim after waxing. Is that actual fact? I mean, it was my understanding that this is essentially smoothing out any "rough" areas and essentially the rest of the wax is picked up, but as vid says, you can actually "feel" the wax with your finger so it must be true?

    I'll definitely have to check out the other thread that you provided for Houdini. That's awesome!

    Well...back to reading for now I guess. haha

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