Quoted from mmr61184:I love this thread and I love all of Vid's tutorials but I think I am more confused now then I was before, mostly about waxing. Between all of the conflicting opinions and I expected that but i think i am just overwhelmed
Think about it’s purpose...
Wax does two things. It’s a filler and a sacrificial layer of protection. The wax fills in the pits in the surface making it smoother and will wear less because of that. Second, it coats the entire surface in a soft but reasonably durable layer that also reduces friction and hence wear on the surface below. Over time, that coating breaks down... and can collect dirt itself too. That’s why over time you clean it up and reapply.
So for older more rough surfaces... wax is pretty helpful. On a modern glass smooth clear coat it has less jobs to do... plus the clearcoat is very durable itself. So it’s less needed. But the wax can still be used to be that sacrificial layer. Just sometimes people feel it can play too fast. It can always help... it just has the potential for too much speed and of course more work.
In home play, most clearcoated games won’t see the amount of cycles to say “always wax it!” To avoid premature wear. So it’s not mandatory... but it’s helpful.
On older games with just lacquer topcoats, the sacrificial barrier wax provides is much more helpful.
On material to use... the principal is simple. You want wax only and less of other shit. Cleaning waxes are polishes plus wax. You just want a wax. Liquid waxes are wax plus solvent to make it soft. You want a harder wax that is more durable.. so no liquid wax. Pure wax is hard... so you need something to soften it.. and that’s where the paste waxes are used.
The other category is the polymer coatings that are liquid... they aren’t wax, but do a similar job. They are formulated to layer on clearcoats