Quoted from vid1900:Try a new cloth.
If that does not fix it, sounds like bootleg Blitz.
It looks like a new cloth did the trick. I guess it's time to replace them. Even though they are all clean, I'm surprised they can only be washed and reused a few times before they stop working well 
Quoted from ForceFlow:It looks like a new cloth did the trick. I guess it's time to replace them. Even though they are all clean, I'm surprised they can only be washed and reused a few times before they stop working well
Make sure you are not washing with fabric softener a. Never use fabric softener with mf towels... That ruins them. They are consumable, but they should last a reasonable amount of uses.
Quoted from vid1900:Try a new cloth.
If that does not fix it, sounds like bootleg Blitz.
How can I tell if my Blitz is bootleg?
Quoted from PeterG:After how many plays should you wax again for proper protection?
Any indication?
Just drag your fingertips over the area in front of the flippers.
If the playfield feels waxed, you are still good.
If the playfield feels like an unwaxed car, time for another coat of wax.
Quoted from vid1900:Just drag your fingertips over the area in front of the flippers.
If the playfield feels waxed, you are still good.
If the playfield feels like an unwaxed car, time for another coat of wax.
that's the main issue, what if you have never waxed a car 
Quoted from brenna98:Do you have any suggestions to get a mylared playfield to buff out more shiny?
You'd probably need to step up to a mechanical polisher. Not sure you could get mylar shiny by hand.
Quoted from hisokajp:that's the main issue, what if you have never waxed a car
A clean cloth should slide around the surface like its floating after a fresh wax. It will zip around if flung. You will recognize the difference after you've felt it in person. The waxed surface will be slick. When it's dirty or worn away, the surface will have more friction and will feel smooth, but not slick.
Quoted from flynnibus:A clean cloth should slide around the surface like its floating after a fresh wax. It will zip around if flung. You will recognize the difference after you've felt it in person. The waxed surface will be slick. When it's dirty or worn away, the surface will have more friction and will feel smooth, but not slick.
Or pour water on it and it should bead up...no, no. Just kidding. 
Quoted from vid1900:Tell your dad you want to start carrying your weight around the house and ask him if you can help wash and wax the minivan on Sunday.
haha funny when you tell a 35y married man with a 4y old daughter that has lived by himself since he was 18 
Just lived in cities where I didn't really need a car until moving to Seattle couple year ago ;0)
Quoted from hisokajp:haha funny when you tell a 35y married man with a 4y old daughter that has lived by himself since he was 18 Just lived in cities where I didn't really need a car until moving to Seattle couple year ago ;0)
You must have waxed something in those 35 years? If not its time to get waxing.
Quoted from fiberdude120:You must have waxed something in those 35 years? If not its time to get waxing.
you think I would have right? but I don't think I did... Changing continent every few years didn't make for much possession to wax
Another microfiber tip; wash microfiber with no other cloths. I keep two five gallon buckets in my garage to keep cotton and microfiber separate fo r washing. I also rinse twice in the washing machine. Dry microfiber on delicate cycle as high heat tends to melt the micro threads.
From my professional auto detailing training you always apply with 100% cotton terry cloths. Pep boys and other auto parts stores sell these for $15 for a bag of 20. Cotton blend has hard polyester threads and cause suirls and light scratching.
Microfiber is used for buffing, not applying.
I buy chemical guys gold brand microfiber off eBay. Best microfiber towels ever made.
I recently picked up a VERY used Time Warp. I am not looking to do a total rehab but just get it to play decently again.
As you can see the play field is in tatters. If there ever was any clear on it, it is long gone. With all that bare wood I am curious if I really can wax the game or is the wood too porous ?
Thank you
Quoted from DorothyMacaw:With all that bare wood I am curious if I really can wax the game or is the wood too porous ?
You can wax pretty much anything. The wax will fill a any holes/gaps/ridges anyway.
Quoted from Manimal:Anyone have a pic of how they laid mylar down in a shooter lane? I would like to see some examples if possible.
I can help. What exactly are you trying to see? How we cut the Mylar to fit in there, or just what a shooter lane looks like with Mylar over it?
Quoted from chuckwurt:I can help. What exactly are you trying to see? How we cut the Mylar to fit in there, or just what a shooter lane looks like with Mylar over it?
Trying to see how folks cut it. I have done a couple of mine so far and wondering if maybe there isn't a better way. Probably just over-thinking it, but thought I would ask.
Quoted from Manimal:Trying to see how folks cut it. I have done a couple of mine so far and wondering if maybe there isn't a better way. Probably just over-thinking it, but thought I would ask.
Cool. I cut it to make it look like a pair of pants. Haha. The legs go on either side of the shooter lane switch.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Cool. I cut it to make it look like a pair of pants. Haha. The legs go on either side of the shooter lane switch.
I am pretty much the same. I think the reason I question the look is because I am using pretty thick Mylar. Once down it is good, but getting it to follow the contour takes a little finesse and a blow dryer..........lol
Quoted from Manimal:I am pretty much the same. I think the reason I question the look is because I am using pretty thick Mylar. Once down it is good, but getting it to follow the contour takes a little finesse and a blow dryer..........lol
Ahhh. I see. Mine I thinner so it's pretty easy to lay it down in there. I think I just bought a big sheet off Marco.
Quoted from vid1900:13. I used Novus2 to polished the tops of the plastics. I CAREFULLY polished the bottom side of the plastic that goes over the drop target penis. I did not want to polish off any of the ink, but the balls hopping off the drops always scratches this plastic up.
All the plastics got new white rubber barrel post caps. These help protect the plastics better than post nuts, by giving some relief to an airball strike.
14. Once the wax was dry, I used a soft cloth to polish off the wax film.
15. I vacuumed the playfield one last time. Blitz does not create all that flaky white wax dust that cheap waxes do, but it's just good practice.
16. I put Mylar over all of the playfield touch ups to protect them from further wear. Since the playfield was freshly waxed, the Mylar will be easily removed if the playfield ever gets restored.
17. I installed all new rubber and of course a new ball. New balls come with a film of oil from the factory. I cleaned the oil off with Brake Cleaner.
Vid, concerning #16, I wondered exactly how you did the Mylar over the touchups? For example, I have brought that pic into Photoshop and eyeballed "the broad's" thigh very closely where you touched it up, and I can't see where the Mylar is. Do you cut out a small circle that is just the size of the touchup, or is it a bigger piece?
That Future Spa playfield is so awesome. I love how the girls on the top left and right are fondling themselves. If I ever get one that needs to be restored, maybe I will make a decal of one more chick in a bikini to cover up Mr. Speedo
What is your opinion about this one?
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/maintenance-service/tools/6733/carnauba-wax-25-ml
Only "pinball" wax available here in Sweden except Mill Wax bottle.
Quoted from Luzur:What is your opinion about this one?
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/maintenance-service/tools/6733/carnauba-wax-25-ml
Only "pinball" wax available here in Sweden except Mill Wax bottle.
I think you can get P21S in Sweden.
Quoted from Luzur:What is your opinion about this one?
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/maintenance-service/tools/6733/carnauba-wax-25-ml
Only "pinball" wax available here in Sweden except Mill Wax bottle.
Sorry, I've never heard of it.
There are millions of waxes in the world, and none of us will live long enough to try them all.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think you can get P21S in Sweden.
Swisswax.se seems to be the only one that have that in store, appearently, otherwise P21S is a set of good headphones 
Blitz is back in stock at pinball life:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4292
Sweet.
I started using Wolfgang products.
They work great
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-59860105761128/Wolfgang-Handbook.pdf
Quoted from 0geist0:I started using Wolfgang products.
They work great
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-59860105761128/Wolfgang-Handbook.pdf
Do they even sell paste wax?
Last I saw at the Mustang swap meet, they only had liquid silicone "waxes" that no one would use on their playfield.
I don't have the wax I just use the wax/dirt remover and the paint sealer. Makes it super slick and shiny
Any wax can be used over the sealer if you want.
Here is the wax if you want to spend that much money.
http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang-fuzion-carnauba-polymer-car-wax.html?productid=wolfgang-fuzion-carnauba-polymer-car-wax&channelid=FROOG&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_eu8BRDC-YLHusmTmMEBEiQArW6c-Hx6_9JxVvA4dadPRmC4t666ne69OICPJPHg5N607pgaAk4U8P8HAQ
Quoted from 0geist0:I don't have the wax I just use the wax/dirt remover and the paint sealer. Makes it super slick and shiny
Any wax can be used over the sealer if you want.
Here is the wax if you want to spend that much money.
http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/wolfgang-fuzion-carnauba-polymer-car-wax.html?productid=wolfgang-fuzion-carnauba-polymer-car-wax&channelid=FROOG&gclid=Cj0KEQjw_eu8BRDC-YLHusmTmMEBEiQArW6c-Hx6_9JxVvA4dadPRmC4t666ne69OICPJPHg5N607pgaAk4U8P8HAQ
That's the funniest thing I've ever seen for $200
yhst-59860105761128_2269_228135487_(resized).jpg
German Super Polymers and Glossifiers!!!!!!!!!11
Gee and I thought P21S silver at $54 was expensive....
https://www.amazon.com/New-P21S-100%25-Carnuba-6-2oz/dp/B00CI1D2HM/ref=sr_1_3
But its actually 100% carnauba
Quoted from 0geist0:Hey you pay for the bling. I do have to say that their stuff works fantastic
Cleaner, gloss enhancer, sealer.
If they contain silicone polymers, then they would not be anything pinheads would want on their playfields.
Quoted from vid1900:If they contain silicone polymers, then they would not be anything pinheads would want on their playfields.
Anything that is safe to use on the new car finishes is safe to use on a pinball machine. They have an automotive clearcoat on them, or you can choose to stay with 1980 technology.
Quoted from 0geist0:Hey you pay for the bling. I do have to say that their stuff works fantastic
Cleaner, gloss enhancer, sealer.
You need some Zymol Royale Glaze only $9,345.00, but hurry only one left:
https://www.amazon.com/Zymol-12001-Royale-Glaze/dp/B000F3K0T8/ref=sr_1_1
Quoted from Superchicken:You need some Zymol Royale Glaze only $9,345.00, but hurry only one left:
amazon.com link »
Haha. There are a few reviews on there that are great.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Haha. There are a few reviews on there that are great.
"Bought this for my car and it started driving faster when going over 60mph then it started talking to me while going 20mph and then it gave birth to another car! This stuffs amazing!!!
-Verified Purchaser "
Quoted from chuckwurt:Haha. There are a few reviews on there that are great.
"This product looks AMAZING on my '99 Hyundai Tiburon. Sure, my family hasn't eaten anything but ketchup packets and ramen in months, but the compliments I got leaving the title pawn place were SO worth it!"
Quoted from Superchicken:You need some Zymol Royale Glaze only $9,345.00, but hurry only one left:
amazon.com link »
Free refills for life... 
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