Elektra has been working decent, sometimes I can play, sometimes it doesn't want to boot. More often than not it works

Tonight I decided to clean and reseat all the socketed chips on the logic board to see if that helped. Some of the bottom few chips had especially dirty legs, I got everything shiny new looking and reinserted and checked the replacement battery and it was dead. I checked the new battery, 1.51 volts and inserted it. I checked it at the board and it was only 0.6 volts. That's when I noticed the new battery I just put in was warm so I took it out immediately.

Now it boots up like normal but before it finishes saying "you have been exposed to Elektra's radiation, will you return?" it starts cycling through the test menu and nothing I do stops it. Once it gets to the end of the cycle it resets and does it again over and over. The test button was testing always on so I disconnected it, no change. Tested button out of circuit, works fine.

There were spliced wires in the coin door where the coin switches for the left and middle should be so I cut them, no change. It was recently saved from a shed and spent a long time as home use only. It's always been on what I thought was free play but the credits always show a hard to read "40" as shown in the video

I just reflowed the pins for all the connectors yesterday and it worked normal after that. I'm stumped, could I have done something cleaning the chip legs to short something and that's why the battery got hot?

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I'll recheck the chips and legs when I get home tonight and go over the rest of the board.

I used a AA Duracell, I realize that's wrong now. The battery got warm with the board out of the game

I used a nail file (sandpaper Popsicle stick) and then wiped the dust off with a q tip slightly dampened with 91% alcohol

The middle of the three big chips had the first leg all the way to the left on the top out of the socket, I pulled it, bent it back and reinserted it correctly. It booted and I played some, it was self scoring (it's been doing that intermittently) and it wouldn't register when the ball drained (also an intermittent ongoing problem) so I turned it off and back on. Now it won't boot past the startup sound. It'll play the start up sound, I can hear a solenoid fire twice, almost like it's hitting the side of the cab and then all it does is have all the back glass lights on, the ball counter says zero and the player one display has a few zeros lit up, sometimes the middle two zeros blinking. Sometimes random play field and "basement" play field lights will be on and pressing the flipper and/or start button will make them flutter, change or go out. It acts the same with J3 plugged in and unplugged. If you shake the door with the back glass lights and displays some of the lights will dim/brighten or turn on/off.Upon start up the green light on the logic board blinks once, a slight pause, six more blinks and then it stays on but dim.

Could this be a voltage issue? Where do I check those at? I cut my teeth on arcade games and I've gotten pretty good on them but I'm still a bit intimidated by pins. I refuse to let this thing whip me and I really appreciate everyone's help and patience with me so far.

I fiddled with it some last night, I was a little confused on how to test the ball drain switch. It had 3 contacts and a diode, I cleaned where the longest two touch and it didn't change anything. With it on I took one ball out of the trough and it finished booting, now it boots almost every time but it's still barely registering when the ball drains. The one time I got it to drain to the basement play field, the relay for switching between the upper and lower was clicking and blinking the light very fast and all three flippers for the side were firing when I hit the corresponding button. I reflowed the whole board that relay is on a few weeks ago, could the light bulb under there be effecting it?

The display wasn't showing any credits and wouldn't let me start a game. I twisted together the wires in the coin door I cut and the display went back to the "pulsing" weird looking 40 and it let me start a game. Any theory's on this "free play" hack?

I reflowed all the connector pins on the logic board a few days before I reseated and cleaned the chips. Tonight (or soon) I'm going to check everything else for cold solder joints and follow some wires to see if anything looks out of place.