(Topic ID: 350701)

Claybar cleaning of playfields

By hockeymutt

5 months ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Geeterman1
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 5 months ago

    Figured I’d post up an alternative way to clean playfields. I’ve used all the products listed below on my cars, bikes, or anything painted. Been using all this stuff for years with no issues on pinball playfields cabinets, backglass, and hardtops. Claybars are normally used to decontaminate automotive paints/clear coats, they take out the embedded dirt trapped within the surface. Exactly what we're trying to to do when cleaning playfields anyway. Ive been able to make mylar sparkle again on severely clouded mylar.

    Got this routed BKSOR, figured it would be a great thread starter.

    Any clay will work i usually go with a fine or extra fine if im not compounding after.

    Any rinseless car wash (RW)or quick detailer(QD) will work great as a lube. I spray the playfield, then go in a cross hatch section with a small piece broken off and kneaded till soft. Once the clay is clog up with dirt ill re-knead the clay, spray the playfield again wipe clean with a GOOD microfiber towel (80/20 or 70/30 preferred). Ill spray that area again with RW or QD and repeat the process again. ill do this till my clay has stopped picking up dirt and/or my playfield has lost all dirt lines.

    I follow up with a spray ceramic coating, i use TEC-582( is rated one of the best temp coatings on the market) its about $20 a gallon if you get it thru ADSCO( dont buy off amazon) or i have in the past used ceracoat spray sealant, i prefer TEC due to the cost, alternatively If you have an Ollies they have Meguiars hybrid ceramic coating kit for about $20 and have used this on machines/cars in the past and love the results. Kit comes with a body shop safe pre spray, applicator and 2 good towels. The can will coat about 10 machines 2-3 times.

    You do not need to to compound /paint correct the playfield to apply one of these, i have even applied a 3 year coating on my tesla with no prior paint correction. I have no swirls or paint defects, the coating is still going strong 2 years in. Ive used the same method on my 12 year old truck did some minor paint correct were needed and im about the same mileage in with a strong coating.

    Why ceramic coating? rubber, silicone safe, no white residue, can be used on scratched plastics to fill in scratches, and will fill in minor scratches on playfields. This stuff is actually great for rubbers as it rehydrates them and makes them last longer.

    before shots:
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    during shots:
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    Final result:
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    #2 5 months ago

    I've used the clay bar on my vehicle and it works great. Personally I don't think I'd use it on playfields as you need to keep the clay wet for it to not stick while pulling dirt. I use Novus Plastic polish #2.

    #3 5 months ago
    Quoted from chad:

    I've used the clay bar on my vehicle and it works great. Personally I don't think I'd use it on playfields as you need to keep the clay wet for it to not stick while pulling dirt. I use Novus Plastic polish #2.

    Not 100% needed like on a car, since we're dealing with an object in a climate controlled environment, a little bit goes a long way. I usually will start in the most open part of the playfield to get a good mist set up. easily done with a fine mist, of RW or KD. I know Novus is highly regarded within the community but is an abrasive.

    #4 5 months ago

    This is an interesting idea. Might give it a go on more modern games with modern clear. Wonder how it does on 80s/early 90s games. More specifically DE games where the ball trail is permanent in the inlanes.

    #5 5 months ago
    Quoted from SpyroFTW:

    This is an interesting idea. Might give it a go on more modern games with modern clear. Wonder how it does on 80s/early 90s games. More specifically DE games where the ball trail is permanent in the inlanes.

    I have used clays on bally-35s, system 7's,11's, system 80s, bally/williams wpc, small DMD data east ETCs with great results. The one thing to note on damaged playfields it will cause the paint to lift where already lifting, but this is normally an area that would degrade anyways after a few weeks/days of playing.

    #6 5 months ago

    TheLaw thanks for the down vote, heres the proof novus 2 is an abrasive.

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0591/6852/2433/files/PP_No_2_SDS_USA_CAN_January_2022.pdf?v=1667837830

    "Flux-Calcined Diatomaceous Earth/ Crystalline Silicas Mixture 5-11% "
    "Diatomaceous Earths/Crystalline Silicas Mixture 1-5%"

    AKA SAND
    the google:
    What is flux calcined diatomaceous earth used for?
    it can be used to remove impurities at very high filtration flow rates because of its higher permeabilities. It can also be used as a filler in the same applications as our natural diatomaceous earth products where higher abrasion, a brighter color, and larger particle sizes are required by the application.

    #7 5 months ago

    The thickness of clear on a vehicle is 2.0 mils. I wonder what it is on a playfield?

    I have a couple diamond plate fields ( older used) . I have some clay left and will give it a try for what it's worth this weekend.

    #8 5 months ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    heres the proof novus 2 is an abrasive. ... "Flux-Calcined Diatomaceous Earth/ Crystalline Silicas Mixture 5-11% ", "Diatomaceous Earths/Crystalline Silicas Mixture 1-5%" ... AKA SAND

    And what exactly do you think is in clay?

    #9 5 months ago
    Quoted from sparky672:

    And what exactly do you think is in clay?

    abrasive in a sense as well, But meant to be harsh on objects not intended to be there. But not as nearly as abrasive as novus. Novus is in a paint correction/compound category. Yes i know its for "plastics", but the main difference between "novus" or any plastic scratch remover and rubbing compound, is plastic scratch products ability to stay wet longer, or so they say. This is on the same topic that you cant use "cleaner" waxes on playfields. If you look at 90% of all consumer waxes on the shelves theyre all cleaner waxes and SDS's match up nearly 100% to there no cleaner wax component. the only time you can avoid abrasive/ petroleum desolates( almost all waxes have this) is on the higher higher end waxes costing double to triple what is for sale locally.

    here's a knee slapper from a well know company:
    https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/G7014%20SDS.pdf
    https://www.meguiars.com/sites/default/files/pdf/A1214%20SDS.pdf

    the titanium dioxide is used as a hardner/sealant for the wax. But other than that almost 2 a "T".

    #10 5 months ago

    Both are abrasive. Both are marring. As a general rule in auto detailing you polish after clay.
    The issue with Novus 2 is inconsistent and non degrading abrasive particles. This means it "polishes" decently but you can see deeper scratches from the product itself. I find the result poor.
    I find better results with 3DOne AIO or 3D AAT 502 depending on what I am trying to accomplish.
    I have used some CQuartz UK on the brass armor on my IJ and there has been no tarnishing. I have not tried a ceramic coating on the playfield.

    #11 5 months ago
    Quoted from chad:

    The thickness of clear on a vehicle is 2.0 mils. I wonder what it is on a playfield?
    I have a couple diamond plate fields ( older used) . I have some clay left and will give it a try for what it's worth this weekend.

    youre not remove any of the clear so should really matter and have used it on single stage PF as well. You just artificially marring the grain to get out the contianiments.

    #12 5 months ago
    Quoted from pokerag2:

    Both are abrasive. Both are marring. As a general rule in auto detailing you polish after clay.
    The issue with Novus 2 is inconsistent and non degrading abrasive particles. This means it "polishes" decently but you can see deeper scratches from the product itself. I find the result poor.
    I find better results with 3DOne AIO or 3D AAT 502 depending on what I am trying to accomplish.
    I have used some CQuartz UK on the brass armor on my IJ and there has been no tarnishing. I have not tried a ceramic coating on the playfield.

    Great so seems like we both do hobby level detailing as well. I have used TEC584( dirt cheap at $20 a 10ml bottle) their 3 year coating on some bang up mylar and got it to clear right up. stuff is highly recommended in the detailing community for ease and price. I've coated an old 70's coat machine in my basement with Mr.fix 9h that stuff thats like $10 on amazon. Couldnt believe how much solids are in the formula. stand by ill grab a picture of the cap, its insane.

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    #13 5 months ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    TheLaw thanks for the down vote, heres the proof novus 2 is an abrasive.

    No shit it is; we all know this.

    #14 5 months ago

    How do you apply the ceramic?

    #15 5 months ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    How do you apply the ceramic?

    If it’s a spray, I’ll apply it to the towel and cross hatch apply. Then level with with a new towel.

    The stuff that comes in the little bottles I use the circle type make-up applicators. My local grocery store has microfiber blended ones. And level with a new towel.

    #16 5 months ago

    I only clay my cars if I plan on polishing after. Anybody that has clayed a black car knows how damaging it can be. You’re grabbing debris and rubbing it back and forth against the clear coat. I would personally never do this on a playfield where you’ll have even less lubricant than on a car.

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