Wow now that is a nice prize. I bought one of these not very long ago and haven't been able to set it up yet but I am looking forward to it.

That is a neat story. How awesome that would of been. You've taken care of it. Looks great.

Joined the club. Anyone know where to get a backglass for this classic stern? BGresto seems to be awol.

I too could use a backglass.

I would say I need a backglass too, but then I would have to fix up the rest of the game....

Keep trying Steve at bgresto. Slow to respond, and slow to send product but with the wait.
Did you check shay?

who is shay?

If enough of us bug the kind folks at CPR, maybe we can get them to do a run of reproductions... and maybe a few playfields too. Magic has amazing artwork but the majority of the backglasses and playfields I have seen are trashed.

Shay arcade group.
I checked, they are not doing any classic stern stuff.
Check with Mayfair amusements. They often have used glasses.

I'm in, picked one up this past weekend.

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I'm in. Picked one up last week. Really fun game and a bargain as far as classic sterns go.

Wow, owned this title over a year now. Completely forgot to post these recreations.

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Translite after mask (resized).jpg

Working on another order to send to my printer for translites, I've got one so far but for each other one, we can save $10 shipping... PM for further details. Here is a list of what I have re-created thus far;

Abra Ca Dabra
Dragon
Grand Prix
Laser Ball
Motordome
Magic (Stern)
Trident
Wild Fyre

I can do others if I have a scan to work from.

Hi all - I got Magic recently and have just started to look at it. Someone has hacked the crap out of the rectifier board wiring. They put in connectors from the cabinet wiring, and then wired directly to components. I think I'm very close to knowing where everything goes so I can repin the connectors, and we bought a new board. If anyone has pictures of the wiring in and around the board and transformer, I'd appreciate it.

Bump. This game also has a relay wired between the transformer and rectifier board. Any pictures or wiring diagrams are appreciated.

Can you post pictures of said relay? And also the wires you want info on?

Sounds like someone may have put a transformer/power board from a Stern Galaxy into your game which uses a relay to switch the general illumination. Magic has no such feature.

I looked again. It looks like all wires from transformer are correct to rectifier board, except for lug 17, which goes first to a relay, and then to the rectifier.
The wires coming out of that relay go to a connector that isn't connected to anything.
I'd like to know if there's and reason or purpose for the relay, or if I should take it out and wire lug 17 directly to E7.
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After getting some advice from a friend, I wired up the new rectifier board. I decided to leave the mystery relay in place for now. The new board, from Pinball Life, is much better than the old one. After I do connectors I'll know better where things stand.

IMG_20200906_174054 (resized).jpg

That relay doesn't belong on Magic. Someone must have installed the power board from a later Stern game that uses that relay to flash the G.I. Magic does not support this feature.

BTW, on top of the transformer do you see it marked "16B-3" or "16B-6"?

Note the J1 pin header on your new rectifier board is 9 pins wide while the old rectifier board it was 8 pins wide. Make sure your J1 connector is keyed properly so you install it on the left 8 pins (the 9the pin on the right should be left exposed).

Also, the F2 fuse should be a 3/4 amp fast blow but your new one looks rather over fused. Confirm that it's the right rating fuse.
BTW, the fuses on the new rectifier board look like medium blow fuses, not fast blow. Care to post some pictures of the fuse markings?

Quench The top of the transformer is 16B-6. The board came with a connector kit which has a 9-position for J1, so I should be okay. Thanks for mentioning that, and everything else. You noticed things I overlooked.
The fuse markings on the board do not match those of the original chart on top. I hope the new ones are an improvement and not a mistake. The actual fuses in there are marked with a 3xx code, instead of MDL/AGC. I had to google that, but I'm still not sure what ABC means - maybe medium? F3 is 4A (ignore my accidental decimal).
It does look like the new board markings are different from the fuses populating it. I need to have another look.

16B-6 (resized).pngfuses (resized).png

Oh sorry, somehow I missed your reply last week.
The 16B-6 transformer is from a later game, there's probably a few that would love to trade you with the transformer you're supposed to have. You might notice the flippers/solenoids have more power than the game was originally designed for.

312 = AGC = fast blow glass body
313 = MDL = slow blow glass body
314 = ABC = fast blow ceramic body

The F6 3 amp fuse should be slow blow, not fast blow.

The F4 fuse should be 5 amp fast blow for your game. Ignore the 7.5A slow blow on the card above the rectifier board - as I previously mentioned your transformer/rectifier board panel has come from a later game. The 7.5A slow blow fuse spec is for games with 4 flippers (Big Game, Seawitch, Cheetah, etc)

For safety, the F2 3/4 amp fuse would be better as a fast blow, not slow blow. If something goes wrong with the high voltage circuit on the solenoid driver board, the transistors always blow well before that rectifier board fuse does. A slow blow fuse at F2 isn't acting as a protection mechanism for the high voltage circuit on the solenoid driver board so it should be a fast blow fuse. Bally recognised this error and changed their F2 fuse spec accordingly.

It's too quiet in here. I was able to get Magic running, and even solved a sound board issue by simply reflowing the MPU header pins. This sound board guide will be helpful to Magic owners: http://www.techdose.com/projects/Stern-Pinball-SB100-Sound-Board/346/page1.html

I'm working my way around the playfield now, cleaning, rubbers, LEDs, and filling loose wood posts. I'll try to share some pictures.
I still have a hum along with working sounds. Anyone have a suggestion for that? I think it's a speaker hum.
Also: I ordered a cap kit for the SB-100 sound board, but then realized I have no idea how that board is mounted inside the backbox. There are no visible screws. Anyone know?

The sound board is just held by four round plastic clips like the clips holding the other boards.

I never understood the purpose of this relay? Some of my MPU200 game have it (Ali...) and other dont...?

Quench explained that this relay toggles the GI, on games that support that feature. Magic does not. Does your Magic have that relay too?

oh i had missed that in the thread, that is good info! No, my magic as the older smaller transformer and no relay. I am happy to swap it around with an older one if you like, i have a left over from a Wyld fire "conversion" project.

I had a great time tonight, listening to James Brown and doing posts, lights, and rubbers on Magic.

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I forgot to tell you, I took your advice on all of the fuses. Thanks much for giving it.

Cheers. For your sanity, PinWiki reflects the correct fuse ratings - your rectifier board matches the first in the list "AS-2518-18".
Only F6 is marked as "SB" for slow blow.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Fuse_Values

Wow, nice, how can I get my hands on one of these?

Can someone help me out? I’m missing the 2 lane guides at the top of the playfield and am not sure which size to order. Does anyone know which ones they are, or even better where there is an online parts list (for future enquiries). I have found the parts catalogue on pinwiki, but I can’t find any resources to help with the part numbers. I.e. i know that the lane guide part number is 4A-121 but dont know where to look that up to find out what the part actually is.

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They should be 1.5 inch hole to hole.

http://pbresource.com/rollover/gtb-a9393y.jpg

thank you.

Bought a Magic 25 years ago. Love the four player setup. In that time I’ve replaced/refurbished almost all the moving parts and installed Alltek MPU and Solenoid Driver boards, so the game is hardly in its original state.

However the questions I have is how many sounds should activate on test. The manual says 20 thru 25 cover sound, which would imply six sounds. I am currently only getting four, 20 thru 23. 24 (PopBumper?) disappeared several months ago at the same time as a hum started from the speaker and I don’t think I have ever had anything on 25. There is a lot on SB-100 restoration but it is not game specific. Test point voltages are all good but as I understand it the soundboard is the one board that cannot be replicated so I’m reluctant to dig around too far. As with most things it is probably a connection issue somewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help with sounds and hope this first post goes through.

There are six sounds:
10 point tone
100 point tone
1000 point tone
10000 point tone
Add Bonus sound
Pop Bumper chirp

Hi Quench. Thanks for the list of sounds. Looks like I may have an issue with the 32 pin connector on the board so place to start.

Pay close attention to pins 3 and 4 on the 32 pin connector, those signals trigger your two missing sound effects.
I presume you have a newish 32 pin cable? What condition is the SB100 32 pin header in?

I tested the cable end to end for continuity and it seems fine but I suspect it is an original cable. I’ve been looking at the newer, non ribbon, cables but they are either out of stock or about USD 200 including shipping so best to check out the cable I have first. I will look at pins 3 and 4. Twice when I have just moved the cable slightly at sound board connection end I have had a mixture of all sounds at once. According to the Techdose repair manual this could be a result of cold connections on the board so I will go there next. Thanks for letting me know about the relevant pins, never have found it myself.

You've got some bad connection issue.

The solder joints on the SB-100 32pin pin header often crack. Suggest you pull the board out and resolder any suspect pin header joints you see under a magnifying glass.

Both barakandl and Great Plains have the cables on their sites for under US$15 (before international shipping).
Scroll down to the SB-300 board and you'll see @barakandl's cable:
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

The dual 16 pin cable is the one from Great Plains to suite the SB-100:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=57

Unfortunately the issue with the cable price is all about the delivery but I’ve found an acceptable way which may take a bit longer so ordered a cable. My soldering skill is not up to reflowing the connections on these boards so best taken to a technician. As both missing sounds go through U4, I think, could U4 be the problem?

They are both activated through U4. It can be checked with a logic probe if you have one.

Thanks Quench. Closely checked the pin seating for cracks and seems all good to me so I’ll install the new cable when it gets here and then move on if no change.