Maybe it's a difference with the Australian Leisure and Allied Industries built Sterns (presuming yours is a local). There are some plastics pictures on IPDB matching your art, and other Magic playfields with different plastic art.

I think this one came from Pinhead Electronics. We got it from PBR
http://www.pinheadelectronics.com/

I have two possibly related issues left with Magic. The game resets during gameplay, or sometimes instead of resetting just the scores reset and the ball in play continues from a score of zero. The other issue is an odd tilt with no shaking. I think when the tilt happens, all the displays and playfield inserts go dark too, if I remember right. I know that my HV TP2 reads 158 when it should read 185, but I don't know if that would cause these type of issues. I've got a 5V and a HV kit coming from Big Daddy, and I plan to do both. I've already re-pinned most of the headers and connectors that I think would be important, like J3 on the SDB, and J4 on both MPU and SDB.
Any troubleshooting advice?

Sounds like a switch matrix issue.
One you're getting the start button incorrectly activating and the other sounds like the slam tilt might be incorrectly activating (this one will cause the game to do a full reset like it's been powered off and back on). So if the displays come back on after 10 odd seconds into attract mode, this is the slam tilt. Not a 5V problem or HV problem.

How often is it happening?

I think the L&A plastics were the same as the US versions (imported plastic sets) - some early production games had different art as per flyer & I think one of the plastics is printed upside down. The above game in question has the same plastics as the flyer by the look of it, so early/prototype plastics on that game.

Thanks for responding @quench. I hoped you would.
It happens when the game is pretty busy, when a bunch of points are being scored. I will check start, tilts, and slam tilt switches tomorrow. What do you think about HV at 158? Do you think it has been dialed down with the potentiometer to reduce stress on the displays?

Sorry I missed that bit. If the displays are not strobing then likely someone may have dialed down the voltage. Lower display voltage puts more stress on the high voltage transistors. Personally I dial it to around 180 volts - in a home environment you won't be burning out the displays.

Your switch matrix issues are likely to involve either the drop targets or coin door switches. Does the game report zero closed switches in switch test mode after you raise the drop targets and remove the ball from the game?

Didn't realise a lower voltage like this added stress to the transistors, good to know, assumed a lower voltage was better overall. Mine are all at about 160v, will turn them up.

Power = voltage * current

There's about 0.2 amps current going to the displays.
240 volts input minus 190 volts output (Bally spec) = 50 volts across the HV 2N3440 transistor on the heatsink.
240 volts input minus 160 volts output = 80 volts across the HV 2N3440 transistor on the heatsink.

50V * 0.2A = 10 watts.
80V * 0.2A = 16 watts.

The heatsinked transistor has to dissipate more heat when the HV is dialed down because there's a greater voltage across it.

Magic is playing great and we’ve really been enjoying it. I was trying to find the source of a random tilt issue. I haven’t found a cause, but the issue has stopped. I took apart the right slingshot coil for cleaning and one wire just fell off. I also was missing a roll pin in the slingshot head. I was expecting to troubleshoot the slingshot switches next, but the tilt issue has not reoccurred so far, probably 30+ games. Thanks for your help everyone and especially Quench

Up in the club

0B9B8669-80E6-4790-B986-061A1BE6DC8A (resized).jpeg

Wondering if somebody has a original RECTIFIER board still in there magic and send me a photo?! Mines a mess. about to order a new one but wanna figure out if the wires are in the right spots.. I think maybe someone took a few outta the connectors and put em into this plug!? Not sure

223DBA6A-33FC-488D-9153-1E54C3439E57 (resized).jpeg

Joined the club this week, although the club looks pretty quiet. Needs some work but should be fun.

AD9965CA-2035-4DFD-815C-243B4366DFC0 (resized).jpeg

CDD227DD-0634-4756-9286-23DE34CF8387 (resized).jpeg

D7404E6A-7C91-4C55-8E77-23C1BE2FC0DA (resized).jpeg

Hey all...
Frankenstein-ing/restoring a Magic.
In need of stencils for the cab.
Any info you have would be great

I might have a pattern for them.
Pretty sure I scanned my cab when I got it and created some, been tòo many years ago so just can't recall.
I'll check my restoration hard drive Monday when I get to work.
Unless someone else chimes in before.
I don't know if Pinball Pimp makes them for this game.

Awesome pin!

Yep, I did end up making some back in the day, just never got around to cutting them out as yet.
They are made using 12" wide Oramask and Cameo cutter so one has to overlap them to get full coverage, a little tedious but doable.
Here are some sample pictures using the same product on a Silverball Mania I restored.

20170731_190111 (resized).jpg

20170820_110809 (resized).jpg

20170930_124111 (resized).jpg

pasted_image (resized).png

Finally out of mothballs, being enjoyed by Cleo.
I hope to begin working on this one finally.

20230701_083726 (resized).jpg

Thinking of one.
Looks like it has a gi rectifier like galaxy?

Did anyone make new plastics?

Is there anyone that made the “2.0” code via the arduino for the game yet?

Was hoping to have a stern or more on route for some fun tournament games

There is new code for this that makes it very balanced for tourney play. Mine is currently on route and is very popular because you just don’t see them every day

It’s one?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/magic-stern-1979-software-update

I’m in the club! Looking forward to getting this one dialed in. Anyone have an extra set of sling plastics they can part with? Mine are badly warped.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13A-115-X

May just want to source a whole new set.

That’s probably not a bad idea. Trying to sort out power issues now, no 43vdc on the rectifier board.

Looks like someone without much experience behind the iron installed this. E4 looks particularly troubling, and that fuse was blown.

3E3A9710-1D2B-4BF4-B2DA-9FE3C5B831E9 (resized).jpeg

Yep that’s it

Took four years but i finally replaced the $100 Amphenol connector.
20230707_185910 (resized).jpg20230707_200640 (resized).jpg

Can someone post pictures of your sound board connections?
I'm trying to revive this thing and don't currently have my before photos or legible schematics.
I need to know which connectors go on J2 and J3.
I should also add the keys in the connectors are missing. However I have some replacements once I know where the two go.
20230708_194113 (resized).jpg

What the fuck is that

Here is mine:

795E2C23-C4E4-478B-B82C-A7A730B45932 (resized).jpeg

For clarity, J2 is a 9 pin housing:

SB100_J2.jpg

Thanks guys!

Will the type 2 bushings fit in this? Pbl only has type 2 but the parts catalog calls for type 1. Also, what strength flipper coils is best?

I don't know what the difference is between type1 and type 2 but the flipper rebuild kit from PBL says it does both. I have stayed "stock" for flipper coils so i don't break other parts, posts/plastics etc.

On another question, what color rubbers and types are people using? This is going on route and titans I had issues with some breaking. But super bands doesn't have a rebound for sale in the US, neither does PerfectPlay. I feel like green would be nice look, but white may look classic....

I am using clear with black flipper bands from pbl for everything now. I got them on with Gi led last night, really brightens the game up.

IMG_0174 (resized).jpeg

Since I have a Stern Magic, I guess I need to join the club. I bought this in the late 80's and did a little work on it, mainly replacing the rubber rings. Recently I had a sound issue which turned out to be cold solder joints on the 2 ,16 pin flat cables connecting the MPU to the sound board. While I was at it, I ordered a set of Wolffpac orange LED display kits and replaced all of them. I want to repair some of the flaked ink on the backglass, but I haven't been real successful at matching colors. Anyway, thanks for letting me join.