Thanks. I kinda assumed I’d start replacing diodes and caps on it as normal maintenance on restoring this thing. I just need to get time to dive into it.

I know the pop bumper shouldn’t work when a game isn’t going, the saucer still will to reset a ball.

Well I figured I’d tackle an issue I knew I had before I tried to trouble shoot anything. Somebody at one point decided to cut the entire playfield harness… then twist and tape it all back together. Luckily I do electronics for a living and usually have a soldering iron in my hand, so a couple hours later, it’s all fixed.

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Oh man, I feel your pain. I had to do the same thing on a Meteor where some numbskull had cut all the wiring similarly. It’s a drag having all that shrink tape reminding you of it forever but feels great to get it soldered properly. The “work”‘I had to redo was seriously ugly, just lumps of solder and fraying wires. Kind of incredible the game had been working at all.

Who ever did it, did actually twist the wires together very well, and it could have been years ago for all I know, and the tape was just starting to unravel. I did build my 7 digit displays today, and installed them (only 6 work for now) and I went ahead and just ordered several new Alltek boards for it, and they will be here tomorrow as well. So I’ll have some stuff to do this weekend, and hopefully get every last bug worked out at that point.

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I can relate…

#paragon

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That doesn’t look fun at all.

my soldering gun had a blast!

it was definitely strange

certainly more work than a Williams 40 pin connector, but not as nerve wracking

I found it interesting that he color coordinated the wires...

Ok so I’ve been digging and digging and can’t seem to find the answer I’m happy with. I know to run 7 digit displays, I need to runs wires from the displays over to the MPU, so on. BUT I have an Alltek MPU and they are saying they don’t support that… is there no way to use an Alltek with 7 digit displays?

That is why I told you that in that message. You can burn a new multirom for alltek but you'll have to figure out how, and you should check with alltek if it voids their lifetime warranty or not. They told me for a while that it did, then they changed their stance, but they're not going to help you get it done. It's nice to have the hardware in place but without the software to run it, not so much.

nvram.weebly.com is the pinhacker friendly board you should buy. Alltek board are not difficult to sell, and Andrew's boards are cheaper anyway, so you can probably sell the alltek to be able to get the weebly.

Yea I can always use the Alltek in a different game. I go through a ton of them. I just saw that old thread where they used one and thought I could. Hmm. Thanks man. Too much going on, and got confused with all this new info, too many new games in the house. lol

Man it’s one gremlin after another with this galaxy. Anybody want it and I’ll find a nicer one? lol it’s honeslty very clean on the playfield and backglass lol

Now all of the trigger lights don’t work. They stopped yesterday. Today I turned on the arcade and they worked again for about 1 minute. Then shut off again. MPU and solenoid boards are Alltek, lamp board was rebuilt by somebody. When the Alltek first does its power up and goes through the test flashes, once it’s done the top led(flashing one) goes dim, and doesn’t stay bright. I tested all fuses at transformer, and I used TP1 on lamp board to test TP2 and TP3 and they both have 5V. That’s as far as I got before I ran out of time.

You can play a game just like normal, all sounds and solenoids work, so on. Just no lights besides GI. So it has to be a common issue at the board.

Those lamp boards are a nightmare to try to work on. Pads lift even if you do everything right. They’re the first thing I replace with an Alltek or Weebly.

So I have an Alltek lamp board in my Bally Lost World, I can just swap and make sure that’s the issue though right? Quick glance says it’s the same part number.

Yes they are the same.
-Mike

Thanks. I’ll get some more time on it tonight after work. So I just want to have a couple things lined out to try. Might even try a different MPU to make sure.

Just about finished this beauty. I’m really surprised this wasn’t the artwork put into production on this pin. I like to call it 'Zombie-Space-Chick'

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The alternate cab design is so awesome. Sure beats the boring nonsense they decided to roll with!

Hmm. Swapped MPU, and swapped lamp board and same result. No feature lamps.

The power board is what’s left, then. And how is your rectifier board?
And of course there’s the question of your connectors…?

Solenoid board is new. It’s getting proper voltages on TP2/3 so I’m not sure how it would the rectifier. But I’m not seasoned at this either lol. If it’s a connector, wouldn’t it need to be basically almost a single wire to mess up the whole board? It’s not like 30 pins just quit all together. It would have to be a pretty common denominator type thing.

Edit: double post

Lamp voltage gets split to the cabinet playfield and backboard insert controlled lamps directly does not go through sdb.

Ok did more testing. Back box and playfield control lamps both don’t work. And once again, when I turned it on after being off for several hours, it worked for about 1 minute, then shut off. I did do more digging on the rectifier board, and BR1 failed one of its diode tests… so I’ll rebuild that tomorrow after work. Somebody has been in this board before though, and it looks rough. So I’ll probably replace it either way.

For $35, the Weebly rectifier board kit can’t be beat. I’ve been meaning to pick up a few to have on hand. The XPin ones are nice but if you’re comfortable soldering, the price point of the Weebly makes it a no-brainer.

Thanks. Yea I pretty much solder for a living lol. I went ahead and ordered one. lol

Thanks everybody for your help. Seems like BR1 was my issue. I replaced all 3 bridge rectifiers (slight taller so needed them to match) and after about 7 games over 2 hours, it hasn’t flinched. I do have a whole new board on the way, so I may either swap it anyway, or just hold onto it as a spare. But regardless, thanks again.

I'm usually pretty terrified of DIY solder projects but I was ordering an mpu and sound board from him anyway so I added one of those. I'll give it a shot and see if I can do it.

Hav you read TerryB’s soldering guide on here? It’s really comprehensive, a great primer. I actually paid my board tech to let me sit at his bench and have him look over my shoulder, but really I mostly just needed to give it a shot. (Definitely a good idea to practice on a beater board first though. And I haven’t delved into delicate trace work like you see on WPC boards, my work has been exclusively on Bally/Stern and a few 80s Williams machines. If it involves much diagnosis or delicate solder work I send them out!)

Picture is several years old, but this is the wire and trace work I have to deal with when fixing old ford computers, because the caps leak and kill them all in the surrounding area. lol

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Well I sold my Galaxy, and now my family is expressing how much they loved it. So I’m on the look out for a pretty nice example if anybody has one within 4-5 hours of St Louis, or can meet me within that distance.

I’ll also be selling a F-14 tomcat to fund this swap as soon as the new score boards show up. Player 4 took a dump lol

Anyone have a good tip/starting point for cleaning up the action of the Galaxy turn kickout? Mine will occasionally misfire so the ball comes back down to the switch and retriggers the switch. Usually the second kickout clears.

This is fine in the original code but in the updated code the machine locks up.

Thoughts?

The Arduino updated code or the old school style update?

The arduino code. I'm still working on sound issues with it but have the code running.

So I figured out it’s something with the switch. Can any of you post a pic if what your Galaxy turn switch?

Mine seems to have this extreme upward bend to the switch with an upward curved end. This essentially stops the ball about 3/4 inch shy of the kickout lever.

Every once in awhile a shot will place the ball directly against the kick out lever. This locks up the new code. If I power down then on it kicks it out before I can press start.

Is this what you're looking for

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Yes, thank you. When the ball goes in the turnaround does the ball sit flush with the kickout lever or slightly in front of it?

You should post a pic of your situation. Might be worth replacing the arm if it is too bent up to return to normal? Seems like a very strange problem to be having.
I’m assuming that you’ve checked under the playfield as well to make sure everything is OK with the mechanism. It’s just not that complicated so should be an easy fix.

FWIW, ball rests against the kickout arm prior to being shot back into play. I put a small piece of foam against the face on mine just for the sake of ball longevity (eliminate metal-to-metal impact.)

Ok guys, been fighting this one for awhile. And I feel like I’ve narrowed it down, but I’m stuck.

Long story short, if yellow drop target is down, the spinner sets off the lower right pop bumper EVEN with the white/green wire disconnected from the pop bumper switch(spoon).

I’ve replaced a ton of diodes, even though they look good and test good. Games plays great besides this. I have a new solenoid board in it, and tested it with another one from a different game I own. Connectors look great and have been repinned.

If you start a game the spinner works perfect and doesn’t set off pop bumper. If you hit the yellow stand up and target drops, now the spinner sets off pop bumper. If you hit the yellow drop directly, now the spinner sets off pop bumper BUT if you set off the yellow drop by tapping the drop switch with your finger and the drop target stays up, the spinner doesn’t set off pop bumper. So the yellow target must physically be in the down position. All switches, wiring, so on look great.

Also, my stand up targets had caps on them, but they aren’t on the wiring diagram. I removed them tonight, and everything still seems to work fine. Other games I’ve had, the cap was on the diagram same as the diode.

Thanks for any help beyond (check caps and repin connector) lol

Also random thing I noticed, could have always been like this, when it plays the final Ding on boot up, it’s a lower note. Just the final ding, number 7 I think.

So long story short so somebody doesn’t waste time replying, I had some 7 digit displays I’ve been meaning to put in galaxy, so I went ahead and ordered a weebly. Put it in a couple days ago and it’s been working perfect. So today I went ahead and built my wolffpack displays and installed those. Love it. They are very bright blue in person.

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78 high spins, excellent!

Really high score as well - I have mine set up REALLY brutal and I have only broken a million a couple of times (no outlane posts, very tight tilt)

The 78 was me just trying to figure out if the spinner was still making the pop bumper go nuts, I’d like to reset it. lol

My wife’s high score was like 1.89 on the old MPU. Since we lost score, I tried to fudge a close score and bonus made me over shoot a little bit. My high score is like 1.72

Ours is set up probably as easy as you can make it. It’s her favorite game. And we have other brutal games if needed, BKSOR, TNA, so on. lol

One thing I couldn’t find, and tried on my own and works great, all the instructions for doing 7 digit displays I could find said to use the J6 plug on the weebly, and redo pin 6 on J1 and move it j6 and move a couple other wires…

All I did was string the 4 displays together using pin 12, then ran it to pin 7 of J1(long top left one) and that’s it. 7th digit works perfect. Pin 6 was 6th digit, so I tried pin 7 for 7th digit and it worked. lol

the 7 digit update instructions are here:
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

and the files for the galaxy version are here, including the 7 digit instructions:
http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/ZIP/

You reset the high spins by going into adjustments until you get to adjustment 17. Hit the clear button on the mpu or on the coin door to clear it.

I don’t need instructions. I ran 1 wire to pin 7 and they work perfect. I already had a weebly with all the updates.

Thanks for the spinner reset, I’ll try it later.

Is there a rom that allows the original mpu to have the spin counter and 7 digit displays or is that only possible on the weebly?

Yes. Check out Scott's link 2 posts up.

Ya I saw that but I thought I was only seeing a 7 digit rom. Does this have the spin counter and the other features that the weebly board lists for the Galaxy v008 rom?

That rom is the same one that is on the weebly board.

I post the home rom texts in the mpu info page. I recommend reading them as some adjustments dip switch may change. You can see the current ROM list there too. Combo ROM last updated in July.

You are the best. Got my Vector MPU and solenoid driver expander the other day and my she is finally up and running!

Thanks again.

Picked up a galaxy stern line up is getting bigger.Came with a weebly board. I ordered the new 2021 board with sound board. I want to do 7 digit displays maybe xpin . Will weebly board work or do I switch to altek?

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