Galaxy
Stern Electronics, 1980Just picked up a Galaxy. All is well, with exception of the General Illumination relay which is missing. The strange part, no obvious wires anywhere to indicate where it was mounted. Can anyone tell me exactly where this relay was located? Then, hopefully can find it's wiring nearby and install one. This relay allows the general illumination to flash on and off. thanks!!!
I just recently re-built my power section, and had to replace mine. it was there, but bypassed because it was broke. the light show is cool when it’s working
4870A95A-74E9-4F85-B9E8-A36642D17B1E (resized).jpeg4ECEB134-D058-46B2-941D-15C6C6CBA955 (resized).jpeg5226E0C1-73D0-4869-BC56-84A2D1BE9833 (resized).jpeg69386C3D-401D-4E19-B06D-6BB5A443B7AE (resized).jpegQuoted from sethbenjamin:Scan it, trace it in AI or Sketchup, and send the file to a CNC shop!
Or, trace onto a piece of HDPE and cut a new one with a scroll saw. Could even beef it up to a piece of 1/4” stock, either way.
I don't have the broken piece from my clear plastic, 13B-114-4, to make it whole. Is the clear plastic the exact same shape as the colored plastic over it, 13B-114-5?
IMG_3119 (resized).JPGDoes anybody know if you can change out the 6 digit pinscores with 7 digit ones. I think I remember someone saying you had to attach a wire to the main board for each pinscore.
Quoted from DaveSpade73:Does anybody know if you can change out the 6 digit pinscores with 7 digit ones.
You need to run a wire from the MPU board and daisy chain it to each player display. This extra wire signal controls the millions digit.
You also need to upgrade the game ROM software to one that supports millions scoring. The factory ROM code only supports 6 digits.
DaveSpade73 I posted some pics of my wiring in this thread I started after having some install errors. Turned out to be my NVRAM so the wiring is correct. It’s the purple/green wires in the pics: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-galaxy-7-digit-upgrade-tech-help-funky-hstd-issue
I have some more of the displays I used and we’re both in Austin. Happy to help if I can. Feel free to PM me.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Scan it, trace it in AI or Sketchup, and send the file to a CNC shop!
Or, trace onto a piece of HDPE and cut a new one with a scroll saw. Could even beef it up to a piece of 1/4” stock, either way.
Following the suggestion from sethbenjamin and with a little help from
outerorbit I got the 13B-114-4 plastic made.
IMG_3123 (resized).JPGIMG_3124 (resized).JPGGetting another Galaxy in a few days, really like and missed this game. Looking forward to being back in the club!
Quoted from Xenon75:Getting another Galaxy in a few days, really like and missed this game. Looking forward to being back in the club!
Ha, I'm adding a second in my shop this week also. The first one is hilariously bad--terrible cab repaint, bad glass, etc..but it's functional besides feature lights that immediately destroy the 10A fuse on boot. It's.... going to become a Quicksilver. It's just not good. Hopefully no feathers get rustled there!
The new one looks like it hasn't been touched in decades. But it's a far, far better candidate to actually do something with. My intention is to take whatever I need to take from my mostly working, ugly Galaxy (MPU and probably some other boards, potentially displays) and swap them over to the dust queen which will be stripped down, cleaned, and then put back together and dialed in. I'm not sure what to expect under all that dust but from what I can see it looks like potentially a VERY serviceable playfield. The glass doesnt look perfect but I'm hoping itll be passable anyway. Mine absolutely isn't. I'll know soon enough!
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Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Ha, I'm adding a second in my shop this week also. The first one is hilariously bad--terrible cab repaint, bad glass, etc..but it's functional besides feature lights that immediately destroy the 10A fuse on boot. It's.... going to become a Quicksilver. It's just not good. Hopefully no feathers get rustled there!
The new one looks like it hasn't been touched in decades. But it's a far, far better candidate to actually do something with. My intention is to take whatever I need to take from my mostly working, ugly Galaxy (MPU and probably some other boards, potentially displays) and swap them over to the dust queen which will be stripped down, cleaned, and then put back together and dialed in. I'm not sure what to expect under all that dust but from what I can see it looks like potentially a VERY serviceable playfield. The glass doesnt look perfect but I'm hoping itll be passable anyway. Mine absolutely isn't. I'll know soon enough!
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Welp, nevermind on that dust queen..they got cold feet on selling. So..guess I'm fixing mine up for the time being. 
Edited
Bonjour, j'ai vu que vous alliez récupérer des pièces pour refaire un galaxy avec 2 flippers, j'ai un galaxy depuis peu et j'ai remarqué qu'il me manquait une porte (6). Je ne la trouve nulle part.
Pouvez vous me la fournir contre paiement ? je suis à la recherche de la référence : 1-way gate ass'y a-644 et sa visserie.
Désolé, je ne parle pas anglais.
Bon flip à tous.
IMG20220309180630 (resized).jpgIMG20220309180636 (resized).jpgIMG20220309180704 (resized).jpgI turned on the machine the other day, hit start and the ball ball did not kick out. I also noticed that all the coils were super weak. The bumpers barely moved. The sling shots also would not kick the ball. I have an Alltek Solenoid Driver Board and a new Alltek MPU. I noticed that when I press the test button on the MPU and most of the individual coil light flashed red when it was their turn to fire. My guess is the solenoid driver board went bad but it could also be a power issues. I am much better at working on the mechanical aspects and not as sure of myself when it comes to the electronic.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Quoted from DaveSpade73:I turned on the machine the other day, hit start and the ball ball did not kick out. I also noticed that all the coils were super weak. The bumpers barely moved. The sling shots also would not kick the ball. I have an Alltek Solenoid Driver Board and a new Alltek MPU. I noticed that when I press the test button on the MPU and most of the individual coil light flashed red when it was their turn to fire. My guess is the solenoid driver board went bad but it could also be a power issues. I am much better at working on the mechanical aspects and not as sure of myself when it comes to the electronic.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
It may have nothing to do with your issue but... have you repinned any connectors? Replaced the rectifier board? Checked voltages at boards as well as coils?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:This code is outstanding! I'm having an absolute blast with it.
It’s a literal game-changer, isn’t it?
Lightning is the next machine I’m gonna lend him for new code development.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:It’s a literal game-changer, isn’t it?
Lightning is the next machine I’m gonna lend him for new code development.
I thought galaxy was pretty boring before I added the code...sorry if that rustles any feathers...
New code, music, and light show are just fantastic.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:It’s a literal game-changer, isn’t it?
Lightning is the next machine I’m gonna lend him for new code development.
Bring it on! Can't wait to see one of your Lightnings.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I thought galaxy was pretty boring before I added the code...
I always thought the playfield had a lot of unrealized potential. It used to be the game I would play when I didn’t want to be challenged, just bop the ball around some and have fun. Now it routinely whoops my ass and sends me into paroxysms of rage! Like any really great machine should.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I always thought the playfield had a lot of unrealized potential. It used to be the game I would play when I didn’t want to be challenged, just bop the ball around some and have fun. Now it routinely whoops my ass and sends me into paroxysms of rage! Like any really great machine should.
I really can't understate how RIDICULOUSLY improved it is with the new code. I went into my build thinking it was absolutely leaving as soon as it was done and now I can't get enough. It's great! I finally rolled it earlier (1.4mil) and was surprised to see the high score SCROLL so I could see the 7 digits. Small details like that.. just make me smile!
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I really can't understate how RIDICULOUSLY improved it is with the new code.
The fact that the new rules make use of the *whole* playfield, that there are specific times when you are supposed to his the star standups, the upper pop bumper as a mode clear shot, the saucer being a real skill shot as well as serving a function at various times…when I handed the game off to Dick I thought maybe he’d just fix some of the dumb stuff about the old code and improve the gameplay somewhat. Now my enthusiasm for it rivals TNA, my favorite latter-era machine and one I probably could never justify the expense to purchase. Hard to imagine letting Galaxy go at this point!
Quoted from sethbenjamin:The fact that the new rules make use of the *whole* playfield, that there are specific times when you are supposed to his the star standups, the upper pop bumper as a mode clear shot, the saucer being a real skill shot as well as serving a function at various times…when I handed the game off to Dick I thought maybe he’d just fix some of the dumb stuff about the old code and improve the gameplay somewhat. Now my enthusiasm for it rivals TNA, my favorite latter-era machine and one I probably could never justify the expense to purchase. Hard to imagine letting Galaxy go at this point!
Excellent summary. I'm very impressed with it and I can't see myself selling mine any time soon, either. In fact, I'm going to dig deeper and replace some switches I might not have otherwise done anything with, and I'm really considering having it clearcoated with the cab repainted eventually. I'm hoping I can address my lane guides without buying a new plastic set as I was able to easily come up with a nice set between my two playfields.
I don't think my love for it is quite Meteor-esque but it's a LOT of fun.
Mine will eventually get the Royal treatment; Beehive pinball is eventually going to be making a short run of repro playfields (mine isn’t bad but a proper restoration is such huge labor.) I’m also wanting to make repro cabinets via a local CNC buddy. My Galaxy cab is held together with drywall screws in the back seam!
It’s such a very pretty art package; I’m also thinking to reproduce the unused cabinet art.
On your lane guides…new plastic sets are available and they give you 2 of the clear spinner plastics (prone to breaking.) You could also just trace your lane guides on some PETG and cut out new ones with a scroll saw, clean it up with a file afterward.
Meteor is great too (I assume you have Dick’s code running on yours?), but I greatly appreciate how totally different the two layouts are. I’ve got Galaxy, Meteor, and Stars lined up, and I never get bored. My restored PinBot - a game I absolutely adore - has been getting short shrift over the past several months!
Made the best of what I had available for now, using the weird homemade guides that were on my other playfield. I should have used spacers below as well and obviously I'll need to if/when I can get the full set from Marco (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/13C-114-EB)...but it's at least better than it was. Some ball hop but the ball isn't getting stuck in giant divot now. Marginal improvements still count right?! 
I sold my meteor to a friend a long time ago. I've regretted doing it for quite some time BUT I made a really good friend from it so it's not all bad. I'm having his CPR gold playfield corrected/cleared right now and someday will swap it. It will absolutely run the new code.
20220413_152717 (resized).jpgHey everyone, I need to replace my spinner wire rod because I'm pretty sure the one I have on there was handmade with some solder wire. I'm about to place an order from pbr and I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a specific wire and size I should get?
The pic below is everything that pbr has. The bottom 2 look like good candidates to me.
Any feedback would be appreciated!
Thanks
Screenshot_20220512-170949 (resized).jpgBringing back a Galaxy pin for a friend. Fixed the old Rectifier board enough to get the game playing. This will be a looker when done because oddly enough the game is real nice under a ton of dirt. My dilemma is the new Rectifier board I installed from Pinball Life has no 6.3 dc volts for the feature lights. Game plays great just no feature lights. The E point wires are all correct and took my time not to mess that up. Could I have 1 bad bridge causing this. Transformer lugs have good voltages.connectors are new but that doesn’t figure in here. Bad new board? Any thoughts appreciated.
B021546D-65BB-4FEC-8580-C7E9158A1CD8 (resized).jpegC93FDA27-EF3A-4995-A7EC-B93BC6A42089 (resized).jpegF4B5080F-609C-4563-A38D-85F7143A544D (resized).jpegQuoted from locksmith:Game plays great just no feature lights.
Not sure how the game's playing great, you have some playfield power wires at the J1 connector in the wrong positions.
Should be like the diagram below: i.e. the three right side wires should be moved left one position in the housing. The original Stern rectifier board J1 connector was 8 positions, the replacement aftermarket board has 9 positions (for compatibility with a few Bally games).
That was just a pic to show new connectors. It was hooked up like your picture. I should have clarified that. Thanks
Put old board back in and everything is playing fine. New board was indeed bad. Pinball Life sent a new board right out.Everything is working great. Hats off to P Life for the best customer service.
Finally finished restoring my barn find Stern Galaxy. New playfield, plastics set, backglass, score displays, LEDs, lamp driver board, side rails and playfield glass. Coin door, legs and miscellaneous metal parts restored, and main cabinet and back box structurally fixed/glued and paint touched up. Turned out really nice!
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Thank you! It’s a CPR as well as the backglass and plastics
New to club, random question, is there a way to turn off the constant tone, it changes a little as you play, but I’d like to just turn that part off if possible. lol
Needs some tlc, I threw some bulbs in it just to get them all working, needs a flipper rebuild horribly, and it has a scoreboard issue, but stays constant even if I move boards around, so it might be a wiring pin issue. Either way I’m thinking about tossing an Alltek MPU in it since it doesn’t look the best, and it’ll just be one less thing to worry about down the road.
IMG_4951 (resized).jpegQuoted from Kolk1:New to club, random question, is there a way to turn off the constant tone, it changes a little as you play, but I’d like to just turn that part off if possible. lol
Dip 14 background on off see manual
Quoted from slochar:Dip 14 background on off see manual
Sweet thanks. I planned on printing it out tomorrow at work.
Quoted from Grizlyrig:Nice carpet.
-Mike
lol thanks. They do make it as carpet, but mine is just a 12x18 rug. It’s by Joy Carpet, and you can buy the rugs on Amazon. But they have like a 6 week wait. Looks great with black lights though.
IMG_4945 (resized).jpegOk next project, I like 5 ball (all my other games are too), and last night I almost hit 1M. So I went ahead and ordered some 7 digit displays, and now trying to find the guide on how to make an old stern do that properly. Or does somebody make a kit? Still using factory MPU, would moving to an alltek possibly have that has a built in option? Thanks.
Quoted from Kolk1:Ok next project, I like 5 ball (all my other games are too), and last night I almost hit 1M. So I went ahead and ordered some 7 digit displays, and now trying to find the guide on how to make an old stern do that properly. Or does somebody make a kit? Still using factory MPU, would moving to an alltek possibly have that has a built in option? Thanks.
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html
directions midway down
alltek does not have the 7 digit software on their board.... get a weebly nvram.weebly.com - Andrew barakandl can put any version on his board for you too.
also newer version of galaxy 7 digit here:
http://tsqmadness.com/slochar/ZIP/
uses the same wiring setup as okaegi's original
You can install the software on your original board just by getting roms burned. Dave Astill can do this for you if you don't have a burner or access to someone with one. https://www.pinballrom.com/
If you want to try the new galaxy 2021 from DickHamill his site is: https://www.pinballrefresh.com/
Hmm, not sure if new issue or not, but I’ve noticed that during a game, the lowest/left pop bumper, and the pop saucer always fire together. No matter which one is triggered. If a game is not playing, you can hit the pop bumper and nothing happens, but if you hit the saucer, it only goes off like it should.
Quoted from Kolk1:Hmm, not sure if new issue or not, but I’ve noticed that during a game, the lowest/left pop bumper, and the pop saucer always fire together. No matter which one is triggered. If a game is not playing, you can hit the pop bumper and nothing happens, but if you hit the saucer, it only goes off like it should.
One or both of your switches for those 2 items are adjusted too close, or if either or both has a switch capacitor on it (in addition to the diode) it likely needs to be replaced. Often the pops have them; erroneously, sometimes the factory put them elsewhere (possibly thinking they acted as a noise filter, which is not their intention)
The cap would need to be replaced if present. You can check if the saucer switch is adjusted too closely by hitting around the top of the PF causing vibrations on the saucer switch (even in attract mode)
The pop bumper should NEVER fire in attract mode. The saucer should.
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Tacoma, WA
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