(Topic ID: 166978)

Classic Stern Display issue

By bobnatlanta

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

Well, this is different. Or not...maybe this is the definition of strobing...? My newly acquired Dracula has a flickering credit/BIP display. No big deal there. The weird part is the player score displays. The digits are 'fading in and out' in a coordinated manner. So, the zero digit and thousands digit fade out together on each player display. As they start to come back on, the tens and the thousands digit start to fade out, and so on with the hundreds and hundred thousands, and this cycle repeats. Other than that, the game plays perfectly. All functions behave exactly as they should. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!! In the meantime, I'll be doing some more cleaning, and switch out some known working displays, reflowing solder on the displays, etc...

Thanks!!

#2 7 years ago

Have you reseated the displays connector on the mpu board? It's J1 on a Bally mpu probably same on Stern.

#3 7 years ago

Reseating connectors did not change anything.

#4 7 years ago

Look over the display board on all the solder connections. I'm sure you'll find 20+ solder joints on the male pin connector and at the plasma glass connections that will need to be resoldered (remove old solder). Very likely all your other displays need to be checked as well.

#5 7 years ago

I actually just had a similar issue when working on a Bally -35 MPU board. It took an oscilloscope to find the issue. The IC that is used for the zero crossing detector (4049?), Was internally shorted from gate to gate. So, in addition to the 120 Hertz zero crossing interrupt pulses, there were some high frequency ones (possibly from VMA and phase 2 clock). The cpu at times, was being Re-interupted way too fast for it to keep up.

Changed the chip (I think it was U19), and all was well.

It originally had me fooled since it looked a lot like the traditional bad filter cap for high voltage but the difference was some digits were normal brightness while others were fading in and out and the faded digits would move across many displays. And of course, the MPU was being tested in a known good game.

#6 7 years ago

Thanks Jack - It's definitely MPU related. Swapped in a working MPU, no more funky fading in and out. So....I'm way out of school here, and completely without an oscilloscope, so if you can recall more specifically what you did, that would be a huge help. The 4049 is at U18.

Thanks!!

#7 7 years ago

Also check the 555 and the chiclet looking cap near it.

#8 7 years ago

Sorry, sitting in a plane at LAX without a gate and phone is about to die. When I get a chance, I will look up the IC#.

If anyone else wants to chime in, it's the buffer that creates the zero crossing detector.

#9 7 years ago

Okay, managed to download the PDF. Its U14. I believe it was a 4049 but definitely U14.

BTW,. This also caused varying power up LED flashes during power up test. Usually reporting one or the other PIA being bad (which they weren't).

#10 7 years ago

But this was for a Bally MPU board. I think the zero crossing circuit is the same for a Stern MPU-200 but the addressing chips might be used differently.

For $0.50 to $1.50 plus a socket, I would still shotgun the U14 IC.

#11 7 years ago

OK, so here's where I'm at. Long story, but a while back, I ended up with an extra working Bally MPU with Stern ROMs on it, and an Alltek board that is currently running a Stern Pinball. I used the Alltek to test Dracula last night. I put the Bally board in just now, and the game fired up, no problem. Of course, with a different ROM, the coils are crazy. So, I switched out the ROMs, and then the Bally board refused to boot up. LED does not flash, just a solid light immediately on power up. I thought I might have somehow damaged the ROMs, but putting them back on the original Dracula board and reinstalling it gets me right back where I started. Crap!

There's a local electronics store with 4049s in stock, and I have what appear to be a couple of properly functioning 4049s on this working Bally board. So, while the next steps seem pretty obvious, I'm still hung up on why the Bally board would boot with one set of ROMs, but not the other. This kind of stuff drives me nuts...

#12 7 years ago

Well...geez. Yes, it finally dawned on me that I should have enough working boards to make all machines happy at the moment. Put Magic's original board in Magic. It plays fine. Moved the Alltek over to Dracula. It plays fine and displays are solid, and I've still got a couple of spare MPUs that are at least close to working to fiddle around with and see if I can make work. Crawling back into my hole now....

#13 7 years ago

That didn't take long. I tested a couple things with the Alltek in place, and rebooted a couple of times. Now the sound is screwed up. Loud, discordant electronic hum as soon as it finishes booting up. I suspect the connectors between the sound board and MPU. I verified that they are connected correctly. Dammit. I've done enough damage for one day. Dammit.

#14 7 years ago

Can't comment on the Altek as I have never worked with one.

You do realize not all Roms/EPROMs are created equal? Moving them from board to board may require rejumpering for the appropriate type (2716, 9316, 2532, 2732, 9332 etc).

And of course, a Bally -17 or -35 is only compatible with a Stern MPU100, not an MPU200 without a special NVRAM adapter.

#15 7 years ago

If the Stern sound is using those Gray Ribbon cables with IDC connectors, they don't hold up to too many removals before the wires start breaking.

#16 7 years ago

It does get weirder, though better. I did pause to think to myself...'jumpers,' but haven't researched whether that's at the core of the non-booting MPU issue. Wanting to do something else pin-productive, I decided to reflow the solder on the displays. Even I can't screw that up, right? So now all five displays have shiny new solder on the male connector pins. And the electronic hum vanished. Okaaaaaaaaaay. I'll take it.

3 years later
#17 4 years ago

Did you ever solve the flickering display?

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