(Topic ID: 245201)

Classic Stern Cheetah Club -- Its Fast!

By TractorDoc

4 years ago


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  • 670 posts
  • 69 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders

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#220 3 years ago

The Weebly board already includes the Cheetah prototype B16 code:
The production code is version B20.

NVRAM_Cheetah.gifNVRAM_Cheetah.gif

2 years later
#521 1 year ago
Quoted from robx46:

My Cheetah has an AQ-26-600 coil for lower left flipper assembly. The other two are 25-500.

AQ-26-600 is a Bally spec coil. Stern didn't use them.
Swap it with the upper left coil for now until you get the right ones.

#529 1 year ago
Quoted from robx46:

Ball does fit down the same lane on the other side but just barely.

Try putting the slingshot rubber on the inside of the wireform. All my Sterns slingshots are rubbered this way.

Lightning_Right_Lanes.jpgLightning_Right_Lanes.jpg

2 months later
#564 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also. Where should the bottom flippers be aligned?

There's holes behind the flippers that normally have short pins sticking out about 1/4" which the flippers rest against. Your left flipper is correctly aligned to the pin hole but your right flipper isn't.

Cheetah_Flippers.jpgCheetah_Flippers.jpg

4 weeks later
#614 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It’s a 104 disc cap.

That's the wrong value capacitor. You need a 47nF aka 0.047uF aka 473 capacitor.

#616 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh dang! I just saw these. Will they work?

They'll do. Personally I prefer polyester capacitors because the ceramics have a higher than usual failure rate in this application.
Note some of your playfield switches should have them too. The standup target top left and probably the slingshot / pop bumper switches.

Capacitor_Polyester_47nF.pngCapacitor_Polyester_47nF.png

#620 1 year ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Something else I need to learn about. Are they polarized?

Nearly all electrolytic (can type) and tantalum capacitors are polarised. The schematics (and usually the PCB) will indicate where the positive lead goes.
Ceramic and polyester film capacitors are not polarised.

#622 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Can you explain why a cap when connected to a tilt switch would immediately register the tilt?

Ok you got me
The wrong value capacitor shouldn't be causing the problem. Something is likely causing the capacitor to discharge which is causing the issue.
Grab your multimeter. Put it on resistance (ohms) mode. If your meter isn't auto-ranging set it to the highest resistance scale. With the machine OFF, measure the resistance between the two points the capacitor connects to and tell us the reading.

The 0.047uF capacitor value Bally chose for their switch matrix is in the sweet spot between not being sensitive enough and triggering multiple times on activation.

#625 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Assuming I did this right, the reading is 113.3

That's not a good reading.
Can you post a picture showing your tilt board.
Can you also post a picture showing your meter hooked up and giving this 113.3 reading.

#637 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

diode does not look to be hooked up.

This ^^^
You are missing the diode in the tilt circuit. The red-yellow tilt wire originally connects to the back of the tilt roll-cage where the diode (non-banded) is and then a wire from the other side of the diode (banded) goes to the tilt plumb-bob lower brass surround.

Your tilt roll-cage (and diode) are not wired in so you currently have nothing to isolate the capacitor from the switch matrix.

#644 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Okay I now have this wired up correctly and it still does an immediate register when I add the cap.

Post a clear picture of the tilt board. And a picture of the coin door where the slam switch is (if it has the slam switch)

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