That is the coolest looking back glass out there, IMO

That's a nice looking play field. And nice looking plastics, too.

That back glass just sort of pours onto the play field. It is hard to see where the glass stops and the play field starts. Beautiful !

According to Dr. Dave, the blue cab used the prototype ROMs.

THe populated play field I bought a few years ago, now that I understand more, can be restored easily enough. But I did not have all of the plastics and sold (regrettably now) the good ones I had. If CPR were to make plastics then I could restore my play field.

I was not aware that Cheetah has reached the $6500.00 level.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/83771

My humble apologies. I did not mean to imply that you were the seller.

It is something when you have to think if you would sell at that price. Is the game that good? Can I replace it? If you answered "yes" followed by "no", then you keep it. And hope that a $6500.00 price is not a price where two fools met

I have a Cheetah play field that needs restored. Couple of years ago I asked if Cheetah was worth restoring. Several said no. So I sold my plastics. If you are successful in getting some plastics made I may decide to bring it back to life. But Cheetah back glasses can be a challenge.

I would be in for a set. With these, there is motivation to restore my play field.

What about back glasses, Tractor Doc? And talk about those?

This is why I stay poor. Stocking up when I can instead of waiting until they are not available again.

And I need to build a storage shed for my growing pile of stuff

When I get home today or tomorrow I can scan the Cheetah schematics.

Get ready for a new acronym: That play field is JFB !
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

It is hard to see with your pics but I can see that your inlane plastics are broken. They are supposed to come to a point just behind the flipper base circle. From what I can see, you are going to have problems with the ball getting caught between the flipper base circle and the sling plastic.

I know you cannot buy Cheetah plastics but you can make some from clear Lexan to keep ball flow going.

A guy with a F2K made some clear plastic inlane plastics to sit below the pretty factory plastics. Those take the ball impact and save the factory units.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flight-2000-club-members-and-fans-welcome/page/13#post-5421618

49a56cf989dc260c13999fcd5c895476a98fe5c3 (resized).jpg

Also, the rubber that sits behind your 3-place drop target needs to be in front of the post behind the middle target. When the middle target is down you want the ball bumping into the rubber and not the post. You will shatter that post if you leave it uncovered.

88241ce7439b58c979653adcfe68317b0626721d.jpeg (resized).jpg

I meant to say inlane plastics. I have made corrections to me post. Thanks.

What he said.
=================

Here is something else to consider looking at. What I have observed with the Sterns that I have is that they are not assembled with a high degree of precision, meaning one particular part on your pin might be located a little differently on my pin.

So, look at your drop target closely. IMO, it should be located in the play field slot as forward as it can possibly be. To explain, when the targets are up they should be as close to the edge of the slot as they can get with out touching wood. If they are sitting back in their slot just a little, this gives the back side of the drop target less room to fall back cleanly and drop down.

You maybe can shave some target from the back side as kidchrisso stated.

Or maybe you need to remove the drop assembly, fill the 4 holes that it locates to and move the assembly forward and re-drill the locating holes to get the clearance you need. And to do that you may need to remove that big old heavy play field.

And this, perhaps use one size smaller rubber ring that will stretch tighter and end up with a smaller diameter which could give you extra clearance.

And you might try the white Titan rubber rings. I think the whites might be a little bit smaller than the frosted rings you have on. I say this because I replaced a standard rubber on one of my pins with a white Titan and I could no longer make my flipper passes. I replaced the white Titan with a frosted Titan and now I can make my flipper passes.

One other option is to move the posts backward .010" to .020" inch. I had to relocate some posts on my Nine Ball due to a clearance issue.

It is a beautiful Cheetah. I am anxious for you to tell us how you like the play action.

Doc, thanks for getting the ball rolling on the Cheetah plastics. I will need to buy a set. And then I will need to restore my play field. And then I need to score a back glass and build a cabinet.

I have 7 classic Sterns in my house. Why am I always broke?

2 years or so ago, I asked the same question. What is a Cheetah worth. I was told less than $1000.00 and that it would not be to my financial advantage to restore my populated play field.

And now, look where we are.

Does anybody have a Cheetah back glass they could send to BG Resto?

I would really like to get a back glass and start making plans to restore my play field.

Make them from polycarbonate/ Lexan/ Macrolon. The stuff is easy to cut and is nearly indestructible. It is great for ball guides.

Here is a pic from a Flight 2000 I have waiting for restoration. Stern did a service bulletin to add these wire guides under the plastics. As you can see, they did not work.

Doing the over/under with polycarbonate is the way to go.

IMG_3010 (resized).jpg

Here is archived list of Cheetah sales on Pinside.

One Cheetah only.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&radius_latitude=37.675&radius_longitude=-97.32&keywords=&ad_machine_key=95&ad_condition=0&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=&year_to=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_end_date&sort_order=DESC#results

I would think Pimp would be happy to get them.

If you would please, go to your post to where you add photos. Next to the "+" is a double arrow that let's you rotate your pictures. I would appreciate if you do that. I would like to have a little better look. I might interested myself.

F2K was made several years ago.

I would like to have a new repro Big Game play field. CPR would need a donor play field, though. And I don't know if they are they even considering making a Big Game?

All the large body classic Sterns are the same size: F2K, Big Game, Free Fall, Split Second, Iron Maiden, Cheetah, Viper. And Orbitor 1.

.

Well, CPR did a play field for Bally Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom. Bally only made 365 Voltans. So anything is possible. But I think Stu had/has one of these in his collection and was "more" motivated to work on a low production number.

And CPR did give me a pleasant surprise when Catacomb was produced. I could not believe that happened.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/voltan-kit/#playfield

Actually, Voltan is sort of like these classic Sterns. Find an old Bally for a donor. Playboy maybe? Building a play field wire harness would be tough, but doable.

One of these sold for big bucks on pinside. Asking price was $5,000.00

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-voltan-escapes-cosmic-doom-2

Caution: The Cheetah plastics are off on the color shading. They look nice but it is not a perfect match.

I just looked and BG Resto is now making Cheetah back glasses. ( Thanks to Tractor Doc, perhaps? ) This is all I have been waiting for. I have a play field with wiring. I have a spare transformer. I have a table saw. I have an extra coin door. I can build me a Cheetah. Lockdown bars will be a challenge, but it is a challenge that can be overcome.
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stnc_cheetah2 (resized).jpg

Thanks for the heads up. I do have an extra lockdown bar receiver. Finding the wide body lockdown bar is going to be the challenge, but it can be done.

Yes, but even the standard size is getting hard to find now.

Wow. Pinside has Cheetah listed in the price range of $6,000 to $7,000. Big Game is priced in at $740-860. Quicksilver is priced in at $5300-$6200.

I wanted to buy a set of Big Game plastics, but mine are in such good shape that I can not justify the purchase. I'm thinking that with the formed guide wires that sit under the plastics and raise them up and away from the play field helps keep them out of danger. The only BG plastic at risk, IMO, is that plastic up by the spinner; The neck likes to break. But other than that, there is just nothing to go bad. There are no plastic inlane guides to break like on Cheetah and F2K.

I'm fixing to take my Cheetah play field to the restore guy so as soon as I get my budget built back up I will be buying a seat of Cheetah plastics.

Big Game appears to be starting to get some action. Maybe things will change.

If you have to by a board, get a new MPU from Weebly. It will fit right up.

1201 Quicksilvers were produced.

1223 Cheetahs produced.

1223 -1201= 22 more Cheetahs produced. Not enough of a difference to move the needle, IMO.

The pinside numbers are a little higher for Quicksilver, but the numbers for Cheetah are not bad.

And for both pins---how many are left?

A "new" Dragonfist showed up in Germany the other day and a couple of Big Games have been flushed out. Who knows what will pop up next.

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I think some of it, maybe all of it, is being driven by baby boomers, now retired, with some time and money on their hands. What's more, when you pass 50 and 60 and are closing in on the last 10-20 years, and if you want it and can afford it, you might decide you can afford to swing for the fences for the objects of your desire---the hell with the price. That is not me as I have a budget, but I have paid up for what I bought. I have no heirs so why not?

I am probably in a minority, but Fathom does little for me. And Centaur is OK. But I wouldn't chase either of them. I get to play my friend's Alice Cooper, AC-DC, JP, BM66, Deadpool, Beatles, Spiderman, and Kiss-Stern. They are all nice pins and they are tempting, but at the end of the day, I like the action I get from my classic Sterns. Not boring and they always satisfy Pinball Jones.

I'd buy one of those.

Do that for Big Game and I would buy 2

Without pulling my blueprints out, I assume the left upper flipper is activated at the same time as the lower flipper and with the same flipper button.

If my assumption is correct, then the upper left flipper will be wired same as the lower flipper. Take a look and see if this helps you out. If not, we'll get you fixed up.

EDIT: Cheetah may be like Seawitch with the EOS being at the upper flipper only. In that case, look at the lower right flipper with its EOS switch. They should be the same.

The Blue/white wire goes to the banded side of the diode. The trigger wire will be green on the left side and orange on the right side. The EOS switch will wire up the same way.

I’m betting those holes on the bottom of the drop are tapped. The ones in my Sterns are tapped.

One of the drops on my Dragonfist has the switches located to the bottom. They have never given me trouble.

When I get Nine Ball back together I am going to locate the switches on the bottom for easier servicing and adjustment.

It is good way to get the switches out of the way, too.

05b4603707fdfe8d9a125599610251fa959319dc.jpeg (resized).jpg

Thank you.

I had been thinking about asking when this was going to happen.

Thanks for clearing up my questions regarding blue insert lights. Those were a surprise to see. I will have to get used to them. I have to talk to the play field restorer who can help me decide.

It looks nice.

Do you think you would able to to find out if more are made if they will have the green production inserts or would they be more of the blue prototype inserts?

Blue and Green go together. I was having that little trouble digesting Green, Blue, and Orange.

I am going to put my original play field back into the restorer's queue since I have that option.

Thanks

I used to have a couple of old Corvettes and searching for parts was a challenge. But this hobby called pinball makes beggars of us all

The original Dragonfist I sent to Mirco had white ink on about 20 inserts that were printed all fuzzy looking like these Cheetahs.

If they were grading gold, silver, and bronze, yours would have to be a bronze.

I’m not trying to make light of what you received, but I think with the lights on and the play field glass on I don’t think will notice it very much; especially when you are playing.

http://bgresto.com/?p=2877

I'm sorry. What happened to your QS back glass?

I bought QS, Dragonfist, and Big Game from him. All 3 looked great and I put them back in the box. 4-6 weeks later I pulled them from the box and Dragonfist and Quicksilver had condition where the graphics were separating from the glass. Stephen was no hassle and Jonny on the spot. He paid for me to return them in his box and sent me 2 replacements and all 3 still look great.

This.

I have noticed that on my BG Resto BG back glass. Especially across the top above the displays. Those bits of orange are too dark compared to the OG glass.

I am slowly coming to the realization there are going to be minute differences between repro anything and the originals. We are all in the same boat.

Well crap, someone else said that they all would be made with blue inserts only. When I heard that, I put my Cheetah back in the restorer's line up. I don't like the blue. Red and blue go together. Orange and blue? Maybe on a 3 second dragster going down the strip.

This time, I will leave mine in the line and complete my Cheetah with my OG play field.

I'm not even seeing a Cheetah from Arizona in the archived pinside for sale ads.

Where was it listed?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&radius_latitude=37.675&radius_longitude=-97.32&keywords=cheetah&ad_condition=0&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=&year_to=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_end_date&sort_order=DESC#results

This ad looks like it is still for sale. I did not look in in current ads.

Unbelievable. It least in the great scheme of things it will not be that noticeable.

a9c338ad2ade2650fac4a37d3c6f30740043d6f0 (resized).png

I'm trying to figure out what funk hit that orange insert.

When CPR came out with the blue insert play field, I told my restore guy to put my Cheetah play field back into his queue. A few minutes ago I told him the option of buying new was back on the table. I am waiting for what he says on whether he wants to even do my play filed. He does not need the work.

Thanks for these pics. My OG play field looks about like your OG. I am going to wait for my restore guy to do his magic on mine and pass on the repro.

For flaws in the clear ( like airborne dust) get some 5000 or 6000 grit sandpaper and go over the surface of the playfield with the sandpaper.

It is a slow process with the 5000 grit. You might be able to use some 4000 grit OK but you don’t want to cut into your clear. You are getting the high spots.

Here you go.

Scan 2 (resized).jpeg

This is where if you don't like the price, you make an offer. It is OBO.

I have a repro on orde with BG Resto. I never thought about checking with Mayfair. Nice.

Yes. It does. I recommend a piece of .100 polycarbonate; At least no less that .060 thick. It is easy to cut and sand. It will NOT break.

You will need bandsaw, and a drum sander would be nice. Use your colored piece as your pattern.

Several months ago I ordered a Cheetah back glass from BG Resto. Then another Cheetah builder posted he bought an OG Cheetah back glass from Mayfair. I took a look at Mayfair; Cheetah was still listed for sale; I made contact with Mayfair. He sent some pics and I liked what I saw. So, I went to BG Resto to see how my Cheetah repro was coming along. Resto said it was done and sitting in his stack to ship. I told BG I had a lead on an OG Cheetah glass and he let me out of the deal and said someone else will come along and buy it from him. I ordered the Mayfair glass and was told it would not ship until the weather warmed up some.

Along with the BG Resto Cheetah glass I has also ordered a Catacomb back glass.

My Catacomb glass arrived 2 days ago, however, BG Resto made a mistake and, by mistake, he also shipped the Cheetah glass along with Catacomb.

I am going to contact BG and see how best return the repro Cheetah back to him.

Anyway, I have both back glasses in my possession and when they are laying side by side, you can see a tremendous color difference. But when looking at the OG glass by itself, it looks beautiful.

The OG glass is on top.

IMG_9347 (resized).JPG

I thought Cheetah needed 5.

F2K has the Nine Ball type of drop assembly but there is spacing between the targets that are not there on NB.

Here is the wire that goes to the outhole. I can make these if anyone needs one.

IMG_1058 (resized).JPG

That looks good ! Are these the factory colors? I am going to copy you when I do my Cheetah build.

I think the black theme goes better with the play field colors.

I don't think welding rod will be strong enough for you. You need either .047 piano wire or .055 piano wire. The .047 will be easier to bend but the .055 will have a better chance of holding its shape. If you make a wire bender from a nut and bolt the .055 will be a breeze to bend.

BG = back glass ? If so, then B G Resto.

And what is a proper alternate?

Stern substituted wire. On my Big Game 4 wires were subbed. Purple/black was replaced by brown/black, for example. I figure the production line ran out of pur/bulk and was not going to shut down the line. I’m guessing this is what you are dealing with.

It will be 2-3 days before I can get time, but I can pull my Cheetah harness out and take some pics of the connectors for you

If your blk/wht wire traces back to the correct pin on your connector, then the wire was substituted

In the end, your key is what color of wire is on the connector and that is what you go with.

I am assuming your blk/wht wire traces back to the connector pin at A3-J2-15. Is this correct?

As promised, here are some pics of my Cheetah play field harness.

It stretches out to 9 feet long.

IMG_1766 (resized).jpg

Here are the board connectors.

IMG_1768 (resized).jpg

IMG_1775 (resized).jpg

I have wiring for 3 connectors on the SDU. I am missing the connectors for two right hand side pins.

IMG_1772 (resized).jpg

I have wiring for the two top connectors for the MPU.

IMG_1771 (resized).jpg

And I have wiring for 3 connectors on the LDA.

The cabinet harness will take up one set of pins on the MPU. But I don't know where my other connectors are at. I bought a populated Cheetah play field off of Ebay. And this is all I can recall of pulling wire from the play field. I'll have to headache out the missing wire connectors when the time comes ( since I was so new when I bought this play field, I may have put part of the harness into my grab bag of wire).

I can get you pics of the connectors that I have. Tell me what you need to see pics of. I will oblige.

I don't think so.

Stern manual calls out for J-25-475/34-3400. It does not specify any other flipper coil number so assume all 3 should be this number.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/500/Stern_1980_Cheetah_Manual.pdf

Screen Shot 2022-12-22 at 10.29.46 AM (resized).jpg

Put in the 475s and you will probably enjoy playing it more.

This.

Is the other side the same way?

Are those Bally flippers?

I suppose you could get a piece of rubber and bond it to the back rail for the rebound effect.

More pictures, please. And I want to know how you rate/rank it to your Big Game.

Pinball Resource

Get the one on top. You will need to make 2 bends ( a U-Bend ) to the straight end to match your spinner switches. Make your bends but do not cut any excess rod away.

They are cheap. But a couple of extras for just in case.

Screen Shot 2023-03-05 at 3.05.12 PM (resized).jpg

Steve made those in his own shop. You will need the spinner brackets with the larger Bally holes since Bally used a larger diameter axle wire---unless the Brunswicks also use the larger wire.

This will piss him off but ask how much they weigh. The heavier spinners spin longer and bring more points. Lighter spinners wind up fast but also slow down fast.

Here are some options:

This Bally unit from Marco weighs .8 oz/ 22.5 grams. That's too light. This is if Marco's text can be believed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3460

For reference: Big Game spinners weigh 34 grams.

For reference: Dracula, Nugent, and Hot Hand spinners weigh 27 grams. ( Install a Big Game spinner in one of these MPU-100 pins and you will mess with the scoring.

This spinner for Williams weighs in at 1.5 oz. Or 42 grams. ( I don't believe this number ). Way too heavy.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861

Here is same spinner in black. Text says it weighs 1.25 oz. 35 grams. This is good if that Marco weight is correct.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-7861-K

For me, I would not buy any of these until they weigh them fresh to get a good weight.

I think this is the spinner bracket you need. But I believe there are different sizes so pay attention.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8341

Is your cabinet a scratch build? It looks new.

Stern used some very small 1/2" nails. I use #4 1/2" stainless steel screws.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-x-3-8-in-Phillips-Pan-Head-Stainless-Steel-Sheet-Metal-Screw-8-Pack-800921/204275384

If you have a hardware store that stocks a lot of fasteners you might find them there.

You will need to match drill a small hole in your rail wood for the screw. For a small nail, just a hammer.

Try to align the ball guides to where they are going to have a smooth flow to and from wherever.

I'm just guessing that you will want to set them up with a bit of angle from your flipper ball guides. Look at your Big Game. You should see a small hole in the play field behind each lower flipper. I don't know if CPR added these holes to Cheetah, or not.

IMG_2510 (resized).JPG

Can you show a couple of good pics, please. One close up and one at distance.

What slope are you setting it at? Too steep might be a problem. But man, I have 475s in my Big Game and the flippers can sail the ball up the play field, thru the pops and enter in 3 inlanes in reverse. And I have my Big Game sloped at 7.5 degrees.

Also, double-check your settings on your Weebly board. You are probably OK but when I got my Dragonfist several years ago I thought I was hosed. The flippers were absolutely week. The pin came to me with an Alltek MPU. On the Alltek MPU there are two jumper pins with one position for Bally and one position for Sterns.

The retailer claimed to have play tested the pin before he shipped. That was a flat out lie. The game was not playable on the Bally jumper config. When I corrected the pin jumpers the pin tuned into a screaming demon.

I don't know if this will help you of if it even applies but I took a look at my Nine Ball drop assembly to see how it works.

When a ball hits a target it knocks the target down. When the lift bar goes into action it lifts all targets back up to rest position. There is nothing new in what I just said.

What is interesting to me is how the memory targets and the coils work. When the lift bar raises all targets, the coils for each target that needs to be in the down position activate to pull that target forward---the target does just not fall off the lift finger when it is pulled forward. The drop action happens when the coil releases the target and it snaps backwards with a bounce and that bounce pulls/jerks the target away from the lift finger and the target drops. It is a rather ingeniuos engineering design, IMO.

When I get home a little later I can take pics of my Nine Ball drop assembly

DELETE

OK. Here is my latest. I had that steel rod in the wrong hole. With the rod now in the correct position, it holds the targets stable as the coil pulls the finger in and the steel rod makes the targets drop. I deleted my original post because it was junk.

Both rods lock into the drop target frame using 2 "C" clips on one end only. On the other end, both rods are just floating in the holes. Somehow my assembly worked with the steel rod installed incorrectly. Beats me.

IMG_2605 (resized).JPG
IMG_2606 (resized).JPG

Why one rod is brass and the other steel is a puzzle that I am clueless about.

Both of these rods each have a pair of grooves for the "C" clips to lock then into the frame. The reason only one end locks in is because the other end has the coil sitting in the way.

I think you are going to have to hire a local machine shop to make you a steel rod to match your brass rod because both of those grooves have to be there---and I consider these grooves to be close tolerance measurements. Hopefully you can find a price friendly machine shop.

You might. and I stress "might" be able to buy this 5-bank pivot shaft from Marco and if it fits in the frame holes, perhaps a machine shop can just cut in one extra groove like what is on your brass rod. But I am not a trained machinist, so no real clue.

image (resized).jpeg

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2A-225-5

I would be lost without pinside where collective minds can figure things out.

This is a interesting discovery. 3 pages are associated with the feature lights. On both pages #1 and #2 that show feature lights, it is a glaring omission.

Hopefully some one with a Cheetah will come in.

I'll have to correct my manuals.

I took a look at my Cheetah harness and concur that I have a red-white wire on A5-J3-4

IMG_2810 (resized).jpg

One of my wires is white/black. Manual shows R/Y across all the Stern manuals I have.

The Blu-O wire sort of goes to nowhere on the drawing ?? I don't know where it winds up.

Maybe you could bypass all three coin chutes, the slam and credit button. Here is how I would do that bypass. Go to A4J3-2 and pull that wire from the connector and then run a jumper direct from A4J3-2 to your tilt mechanism. If that solves your problem then you have a good idea that are problems somewhere with one of the other items on that R/Y wire.

Or you could do what I did on my Big Game. That cap shorted out 5-6 years ago. I cut the cap out of the picture and have been playing on.

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I still have much to learn myself. I can't answer your questions. There are better electronics people here than me.

This is why I suggested using a jumper wire from the connector. To see if you still have the problem with the Tilt isolated. If it works with all of the other switches eliminated then you know your problem is somewhere else on that R/Y wire.

If the problem still persists, then you know there a problem with that Blu-O wire that I don't know where it goes to.

It takes 10 minutes to make and hook up a jumper wire for that connector. Jumper wires can save to lots of time.

Something else I need to learn about. Are they polarized?

Do this. Unplugged the connector at A4-J2 connector where that blu-O wire is at. It is quick. It is easy. All you are trying to do is trying to isolate your problem. See what happens. No change? Then plug it back in and unplug the connector for the r/y wire at A4-j3. Any change?

I will agree that what I suggest does not make the best of sense. But----you still have your problem.

Per the matrix you put up, it shows the Blu-O wire on J3. Yes.

I remain with my position. Make a jumper wire and remove the red/yellow wire at the J2 connector and replace it with your jump wire.

Then disconnect the black/white wire from the cap and alligator clip the jump wire to the open leg of the cap. If the cap does not short out on you, then you know your problem is somewhere in the red/yellow wire.

If the r/y wire checks out then remove your jump wire from the J2 connector and replace the r/y wire.

Next, do the same thing with the blu/o wire. Remove it from the J3 connector and install your jump wire. Then repeat by disconnecting the blu-o wire at the cap and alligator clipping the blu-o wire on to the cap leg.

There are only the r/w and blu-o wires going to that cap. One of these wires is your problem. But you don't know which one.

With a jump wire you can figure out which of these two wires is causing your problem. Once you figure out which wire is causing your problem you are cutting down on places where you have to look to find the problem.

Make a jump wire and in 10 minutes you can figure out which wire is causing your problem. That's half your battle.

If it turns out to the the blu-o wire, all you need to do is tie wrap a piggy back wire along the harness and take the blu-o wire out of the picture.

If it is the red/yellow wire, you will have a little more work to do.

Pinside_forum_7519028_0 (resized).jpg

IMG_2915 (resized).JPG

What issue are you trying to resolve?

You need a rotary grinder bit and open up the hole the shooter rod the beehive locates to.

2 of my Stern pins had the problem of the shooter rod not being aligned to the groove in the play field. I had to grind away some wood to move the beehive. Fortunately, I did not have to move it so far that a "hole" could open up in the wood behind the beehive. If that were the case, I would have had to done some carpentry work to fill in the area that became visible.

EDIT: The short answer is that you need to move the beehive.